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33d Congress, ) [SENATE.] (Executive 

1st Session. \ } Doc. 



IN THE YEAR 18 52: 



RANDOLPH B. MARCY, 

iAPTAIN FIFTH INFANTRY UNITED STATES ARMY; 

ASSISTED BY 
GEORGE B.'McCLELLAN, 

BREVET CAPTAIN U. S. ENGINEERS. 



WITH REPORTS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY, ANB 
NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, 



X 



WASHINGTON-:- 
BEVERLEY TUCKER, SENATE PRINTER. 

1854. 



I 



REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 

COMMUNICATING, 

IN COMPLIANCE WITH A RESOLUTION OP THE SENATE, CAPTAIN MARCY'S REPORT 
OP HIS EXPLORATION OP THE RED RIVER. 



War Department, Washington, November 8, 1853. 
Sir : In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 4th of February, 
1853, I have the honor to transmit herewith, for the use of the Senate, a copy 
of the report of Captain R. B. Marcy of his exploration of the waters of Red 
river. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JEFF'N DAVIS, Secretary of War . 
Asburt Dickins, Esq., Secretary of the Senate. 



INTRODUCTION. 



In submitting the following report of a reconnoissance of the 
country bordering upon upper Red river, it is proper to state 
that, previous to our departure upon the expedition, we were 
unable to secure all the instruments adapted to the perform- 
ance of such services as were required of us. We succeeded 
in obtaining a sextant, a mountain barometer, an aneroid ba- 
rometer, an odometer, a prismatic compass, and two Fahren- 
heit thermometers ; but could not procure a chronometer, 
and, in consequence, were under the necessity of making our 
observations with a pocket lever watch. 

The latitudes given are the results of from twelve to fifteen 
observations of Polaris for the determination of each position. 
The longitudes were determined by a series of observations 
upon lunar distances, and are believed to be as accurate as 
the imperfect character of our instruments would admit. 

The positions thus deduced have been corrected by frequent 
and careful observations of courses and distances with the 
compass and odometer, a record of which will be found in 
the appendix. 

The astronomical observations were made by Captain 
George B. McClellan, of the engineer corps, who, in addition, 
to the duties properly pertaing to his department, performed 
those of quartermaster and commissary to the command. An 
interesting collection of reptiles and other specimens, in alco- 
hol, was also made under his superintendence, and put into 
the hands of Professors Baird and Girard, of the Smithsonian 
Institution, whose reports will be found in the appendix. For 
these and many othe important services, as well as for his 
prompt and efficient co-operation in whatever was necessary 



IV INTRODUCTION. 

for the successful accomplishment of the design of the expe- 
dition, I take this opportunity of tendering my warmest ac- 
knowledgment. 

Doctor George G. Shumard, of Fort Smith, Arkansas, who 
faithfully discharged the duties of surgeon to the command, 
also made important contributions to the department of natu- 
ral science, by collections of specimens of the rocks, minerals, 
soils, fossils, shells, and plants, of the different localities which 
we traversed; and of these, the plants were placed in the 
hands of Dr. John Torre} 7 ", of New York, theeminant botanist, 
so well known to the army by his able reports on the collec- 
tions of Fremont, Emory, and others. 

The shells were intrusted to Professor C. B. Adams, of 
Amherst. His report, as presented, possesses a melancholy 
interest, as being almost the last scientific effort of this distin- 
guished conchologist, whose loss science has so recently been 
called upon to deplore. 

The specimens of rocks and minerals have been examined 
by President Hitchcock, of Amherst College, with important 
results, while copious remarks on the general geology of the 
country have been supplied by Dr. Shumard, who has also 
furnished some notes on the conchology of the route. 

The minerals and soils have been analysed by Professor 
C. U. Shepard, who detected among them a new species. 
Finally, in the hands of Dr. Benjamin F. Shumard, the fossils 
have yielded several novelties to science. All these reports 
upon the natural history of the expedition will be found de- 
tsiled at length in the appendix. 

The barometrical observations which are given were taken 
from both forms of the instruments, and exnibited a remarka- 
ble agreement until the 8th of June, when we had the mis- 
fortune to break the mountain barometer, and were obliged 
subsequently to depend solely upon the. aneroid. This I be- 
lieve to be very reliable, as it has been tested. since our jeturn 
by a careful comparison with several other instruments in 



INTRODUCTION. 



possession of Benjamin Pike & Son, New York, and found to 
be in perfect order. 

In order to obtain as intimate a knowledge as possible of 
the country over which we passed, I was necessarily absent 
from the train a great portion of the time while it was in mo- 
tion; and during such periods the command devolved upon 
Lieutenant UpdegrafF, which, with the constant guard I 
deemed it necessary to keep over our animals in a country 
where the Indians manifested a disposition by no means 
friendly towards us, made his varied duties laborions, and it 
gives me pleasure to bear testimony to the efficient manner 
in which he performed them. 

C. B. MARCY, 

Captain 5th Infantry. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Page. 
Order from head-quarters of the army — Failure of former expeditions in 

reaching the sources of Red River — Causes of failure — Departure from 

Washington — Arrival at Fort Belknap — The Little Witchita — Big 

Witchita — Departure from Cache creek — Copper ore — Indian signs ... 1 

CHAPTER II. 

Witchita mountains — Panther killed — Buffalo tracks — Singular and un- 
accountable rise of water — Buffalo signs — Horse captured — Rains — 
Arrival at Otter creek — Barometer broke — Character of Witchita 
mountains — Buffalo killed — High water. 11 

CHAPTER III. 

Witchitas — Discouraging accounts of the country in advance — Pass 
100° of longitude — Leave Otter creek — Berries — Elk creek — Pass 
Witchita mountains — Gypsum bluffs — Buffaloes seen — Suydam creek — 
Comanche signs. 18 

CHAPTER IV. 

Buffalo chase — Sweet Water creek — Comanche camps — Prevailing 
winds — Indians seen — Method of encamping — Wonderful powers of 
the Delawares — Beaver dams — Kioway creek 29 

CHAPTER V. 

Reach the source of the north branch of Red river — Bottle buried — 
Arrived upon the Canadian — Departure for Middle fork — Indian battle 
ground — Prairie-dog towns — Source of the Middle fork — South fork — 
Prairie-dogs.. 40 

CHAPTER VI. 

Arrive at the main South Fork— Panther killed — Bitter water — Intense 
thirst — Head spring — Bears abundant — Departure down the river. .. . 53 

CHAPTER VII. 

Antelope and Deer — Witchita Mountains in sight — Reach Buffalo 
Creek — Valley of Otter Creek — Salubrity of Climate~Deer Bleat — 



Vlli TABLE OF CONTENTS, 



Page. 



Horse Flies — Scurvey — Witchita Mountains — Pass through the Mom 

tains — Buffalo seen 67 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Old Indian villages — Beautiful scenery — Trap formation — Lost mule — 
Beaver creek — Prairie guides — Rush creek — Witchita and Waco vil- 
lages — Mexican prisoners — Talk with the Indians — Cross Timbers — 
Kickapoos — Strike wagon track — Arrival at Fort Arbuckle 78 

CHAPTER IX. 

Prominent features of the Red river — Chain of lakes — Cross-tim- 
bers — Arable lands — Establishment of a military post upon Red river 
recommended — Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing to Mexico 
— Wagon-route from Fort Belknap to Santa Fe — Navigation of Red 
river — Erroneous opinions in regard to Red river — Extensive gypsum 
range — El Llano Estacado ....... 90 

CHAPTER X. 

Indians of the country — Habits of the Comanches and Kioways — Simi- 
larity between them and the Arabs and Tartars — Predatory excursions 
into Mexico — War Implements — Incredulity regarding the customs of 
the Whites — Method of saluting strangers — Degraded condition of the 
Women — Aversion to ardent spirits — Prairie Indians contrasted with 
the Indians of the Eastern States — Buffaloes — Probable condition of the 
Indians upon the extermination of the Buffaloes — Pernicious influence 
of Traders — Superstitions of the natives 101 

CHAPTER XL 

Pacific railway — Impracticability of crossing the "Llano Estacado" — 
Route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe — Return route from Dona Ana — 
Its connections' with the Mississippi and Pacific 118 

APPENDIX A. 
Meteorological Observations 125 

APPENDIX B. 
Tables of Courses and Distances 140 

APPENDIX C. 

Mineralogy : 
Report on the minerals collected. By Prof. C. U. Shepard 145 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. IX 

APPENDIX D. 



b-EOLOGT : 

Notes upon the specimens of rocks and minerals collected. By Presi- 
dent Edward Hitchcock 150 

Remarks upon the general geology of the country traversed. By 

George Shumard, M. D. 167 

APPENDIX E. 

Palaeontology : 

Description of the species of carboniferous and cretaceous fossils 
collected. By B. F. Shumard, M. D 186 

APPENDIX F. 

Zoology : 

Mammals. By R. B. Marcy, Captain U. S. A.. 200 

Reptiles. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard 202 

Fishes. By S. Baird and C. Girard... 233 

Shells By C. B. Adams and G. G. Shumard, M. D 242 

Orthopterous insects. By C. Girard 246 

Arachnidians. By C. Girard 251 

Myriapods. By C. Girard . . 262 

APPENDIX G. 
Botany : 

Description of the plants collected during the expedition. By Dr. 

John Torry 266 

APPENDIX H. 

Ethnology : 

Vocabulary of the Comanches and Witchitas. By Captain R. B. 

Marcy ; with some general remarks by Prof. W. W. Turner. ..... 297 

Alphabetical Index 303 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



LANDSCAPES. 



Plate. Page. 

I. Granite boulders. . ............. .. . . ...... ...... ........... . . 23 

II. Mount Webster 22 

III. Encampment of 6th of June. 27 

IV. Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river. 24 

V. Veiws of Gypsum Bluffs on Canadian river 42 

VI. View near Gypsum Bluffs on Red river. 24 

VII. Border of El Llano Estacado 54 

VIII. View near head of the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no. ................... 62 

IX. View near head of Red river. 62 

X. Head of Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no, or the main branch of Red river . „ 64 

XI. Trap mountain on Cache creek 79 

XII. Witchita village on Rush creek. 63 

GEOLOGICAL SECTIONS* 

I. Section showing the order and succession of the strata from 

Washington county, Arkansas, to Fort Belknap, Texas ....... 170 

III. Section on Cache creek, near its junction with Red river. . . . 173 

IV. Section of strata on north branch of Red river, taken June 2. . . . 176 
V. Section of Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river, taken 

June 3 ................ ..... .......................... 176 

VI. Out-crop of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone near north 

branch of Red river 178 

VII. Section of the borders of the Llano Estacado, taken June 16^ 179 

VIII. Section of strata near middle branch of Red River, taken June 21 179 
IX. Section of Bluffs bewteen middle branch of Red river and Dog- 
town river, taken June 24 ................................ • 180 

*A11 the geological sections are by Dr George G. Shumard, surgeon to the 
expedition. 



XII ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Plate. Page. 

X. Section of strata near the head of Red river, taken June 28. . . . 181 

XI. Section of the cliffs on Cache creek 183 

PALEONTOLOGY.* 

I. Fig. 1 a. Productus cora, D'Orb. 189 

Fig. 2. Productus costatus, Sow 189 

Fig. 3. Spirifer, indet . . 190 

Fig. 4. a. b. Terebratula marcyi, Shum 190 

Fig. 5. Productus punctatus, Martin 188 

Fig. 6. Archimedipora archimedes, Les 188 

Fig. 7. Agassizocrinus dactyliformis, Troost 186 

II. Fig. 1. Productus punctatus, Martin 188 

Fig. 2 a. b. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow . . . , , 191 

Fig. 3 a b. Terebratula choctawensis, Shum.. 195 

Fig. 4. a. b. c. Hemiaster elegans, Shum. 198 

III. Fig. 1. Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shum 197 

Fig. 2. Holaster simplex. Shum 198 

Fig. 3. Astarte washitensis, Shum 194 

Fig. 4. Ammonites, indet 197 

Fig. 5. Exogyra texana, Roem 192 

Fig, 6. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow 191 

IV. Fig. 1. Trigonia crenulata, Lam. .. .. . . 193 

Fig. 2. Cardium multistriatum, Shum 194 

Fig. 3. Eulima subfusiformis, Shum 196 

Fig. 4. Globiconcha elevata, Shum 196 

Fig. 5. Ammonites marcianus, Shum 197 

Fig. 6. Pileopsis ; not mentioned in the text 

Fig. 7. Holectypus planatus, Roem 199 

Fig. 8. Terebratula subtilita, Hall 189 

V. Fig. la, b. Exogyra texana, Roem 192 

Fig. 2. Ostrea subovata, Shum 193 



* Owing to the impossibility of communicating with Dr. Shumard during the 
printing and engraving of the present report, 1 have been unable to fill up the 
gaps in the above list of figures made up from the references in the article on 
palaeontology. This want of supervision on the part of the author will also ex- 
plain the existence of sundry discrepancies between text and plates. 

R. B. M. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. XIII 

Plate. Page. 

V. Fig. 3. Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shum.. ............. 135 

VI. Fig. 1. Panopaja texana, Shura . . 194 

Fig. 2. Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roera 193 

Fig. 3. 

Fig. 4. Natica. indet. (cast ;) not mentioned in the text 

Fig. 5. Gryphsaa pitcheri, Morton 192 

ZOOLOGY. 

PI. Crotalus confluentus, Say 202 

II. Eutenia proxima, B. & G 205 

III. Eutania marciana, B. & G 206 

IV. Heterodon nasicus, B. & G 208 

V. Pituophis McClellanii, B. & G 211 

VI. Scotophis ltBtus, B. & G 213 

VII. Ophibolus sayi, B. & G. 214 

VIII. Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. 216 

IX. Leptophis majalis, B. & G 219 

X. Figs. 1-4. Cnemidophorus gularis, B. & G 227 

Figs. 5-12. Sceloporus consobrinus, B. & G. 224 

XI. Bufo cognatus, Say 229 

XII. Pomotis (Bryttus) Longulus, B. & G.. ...... . ....... . 233 

XIII. Pometis breviceps 235 

XIV. Figs. 1-4. Leuciscus vigilax, B. & G 237 

JFigs. 5-8. Leuciscus bobalinus, B. & G 233 

Figs. 9-12. Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. .................... . 239 

XV. Figs. 1-4. Brachypeplus magnus, G 249 

Figs. 5-8. Anabrus qaldemanii, G 248 

Figs. 9-13. Daihinia brevipes, Hald 240 

XVI. Figs. 1-3. Mygale hentzii, G 251 

Figs. 4-5. Lycosa pilosa, G. 252 

XVII. Figs. 1-4. Thelyphonus excubitor, C. 254 

Figs. 5-7. Schrpio (Telegonus) boreus, G 257 

XVIII. Scoiopendra heros, G.. ....... 262 



XIV ILLUSTRATIONS. 

BOTANY.* 

Plate. Page. 

I. Anemone careliniana, Walt, 267 

II. Pithyrsee wislizenii, Engelm 267 

III. Geranium Fremontii, Torr. 291 

IV. Hoffmanseggia Jamesii, Torr. & Gr 271 

V. Sanguisorba annua, Nutt 272 

VI. Eryngium diffusum, Torr . 273 

VII. Liatris acidota, Engelm. & Gray 274 

IX. Aphanostephus ramosissimus, DC 276 

X. Xanthisma Texana . 292 

XI. Engelmannia pinnaiifida, Torr. & Gr 276 

XII. Artemisia filifolia, Torr . 274 

XIII. Erythsea Beyrichi, Torr. & Gr 278 

XIV. Heliotropium tenellum 292 

XV. Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt „ 280 

XVI. Fensstemon ambignus, Torr 279 

XVII. Lippia cuneifolia, Torr 280 

XVIII. Abronia cycloptera 293 

XIX. Poa interrupta 288 

XX. Uniola stricta, Torr , 288 

* For explanations of the figures on each plate, see p. 291. 



MAPS. XV 



MAPS. 



1. Map of the country between the frontiers of Arkansas and New Mexico ; 
embracing the section explored in 1849- '50- '51 and '52, by CaptainR. B. Marcy, 
5th U. S. infantry, under orders from the War Department. Also, a continua- 
tion of the emigrant road from Fort Smith and Fulton down the valley of the 
Gila. 

2. Map of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red river, ex- 
plored in 1852 by Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th infantry, assisted by Brevet Cap- 
tain George B. McClellan, U. S, engineers. 



CHAPTER I. 

Order from head -quarters of the army — Failure of former expeditions in reaching 
the sources of Red River — Causes of failure — Departure from Washington — 
Arrival at Fort Belknap — The Little Witchita — Big Witchita— Departure 
from Cache creek — Copper ore — Indian signs. 

New York, December 5, 1852. 

Col. S. Cooper, Adjutant General U. S. Army: 

Sir : I have the honor herewith to submit a report of an 
exploration of the country embraced within the basin of Up- 
per Red river, made in obedience to the following orders : 

[Special Orders No. 33.] Adjutant General's Office, 

Washington, March 5, 1852. 

Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th Infantry, with his company as an escort, will pro- 
ceed, without unnecessary delay, to make an examination of the Red river and 
the country bordering upon it, from the mouth of Cache creek to its sources, 
according to the special instructions with which he will be furnished. On com- 
pleting the exploration, Captain Marcy will proceed to Washington to prepare 
his report. 

Brevet Captain G, B. McCIellan, Corps of Engineers, is assigned to duty with 
this expedition. Upon the completion of the field service, he will report to 
Brevet Major General Smith, the commander of the 8th department. 

The necessary supplies of subsistence and quartermasters' stores will be fur- 
nished from the most convenient depots in the 7th or 8th military department. 

By command of Major General Scott ; 

R. JONES, Adjutant General. 

Before proceeding to give a detailed account of the expe- 
dition, it may be proper to remark, that during the greater 
portion of the three years previous to the past summer, I had 
been occupied in exploring the district of country lying upon 
the Canadian river of the Arkansas, and upon the head-waters 
of the Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado rivers of Texas. 

During this time my attention was frequently called to the 
remarkable fact, that a portion of one of the largest and most 
important rivers in the United States, lying directly within 
the limits of the district I had been examining, remained up 

1 



2 EARLY EXPLORATION OF RED RIVER. 

to that period wholly unexplored and unknown, no white mats 
having ever ascended the stream to its sources. The only 
information we had upon the subject was derived from Indians 
and semi-civilized Indian traders, and was of course very 
unreliable, indefinite, and unsatisfactory? in a word, the coun- 
try embraced within the basin of Upper Red river had always- 
been to us a "terra incognita." Several enterprising and 
experienced travellers had at different periods attempted the 
examination of this river, but as yet none had succeeded in 
reaching its sources. 

At a very early period, officers were sent out by the French 
government to explore Red river, but their examinations ap- 
pear to have extended no further than the country occupied 
by the Natchitoches and Caddoes in the vicinity of the present 
town of Natchitoches, Louisiana. Subsequent examinations 
had extended our acquaintance with its upper tributaries, but 
we were still utterly in the dark in regard to the true geo- 
graphical position of its sources. 

Three years after the cession to the United States-, by the 
First Consul of the French republic, of that vast territory then 
known as Louisiana, a small party, called the " Exploring 
expedition of Red river," consisting of Captain Sparks, Mr. 
Freeman, Lieut. Humphry, and Dr. Custis, with seventeen 
private soldiers, two non-commissioned officers, and a black 
servant, embarked from St. Catherine^ landing, near Natchez? 
Mississippi, w T ith instructions to ascend Red river to its sources* 
They descended the Mississippi, and on the 3d of May, 3806? 
entered Red river, expecting to be able to ascend in their 
boats to the country of the Pawnee (Pique) Indiana. Here 
it was their intention to leave their boats, and, after packing 
provisions on horses, which they were to purchase from the 
Pawnees, to proceed (as expressed in their orders) to the top 
of the mountains, the distance being, as they conjectured, about 
three hundred miles; 

It is evident from the foregoing that Red river was supposed 
to issue from a mountainous country, and the preparations for 
this expedition were made accordingly. This party encoun- 
tered many difficulties and obstructions in the navigation of 
the river among the numerous bayous in the vicinity of the 
great raft, but finally overcame them all, and found them- 
selves upon the river above this formidable obstacle. They 
were, however, soon met by a large force of Spanish troops r 
the commander of which ordered them to proceed no further ? 
and as their numbers were too small for a thought of resist- 



PIKE S EXPEDITION. O 

ance, they were forced to turn back and abandon the enter- 
prise. 

Another expedition was fitted out in 1806 by our govern- 
ment, and placed under the command of that enterprising 
young traveller, Lieut. Pike, who was ordered to ascend the 
Arkansas river to its sources, thence to strike across the coun- 
try to the head of Red river, and descend that stream to 
Natchitoches. After encountering many privations and in- 
tense sufferings in the deep snows of the lofty mountains about 
the head-waters of the Arkansas, Lieut. Pike arrived finally 
upon a stream running to the east, which he took to be Red 
river, but which subsequently proved to be the Rio Grande. 
Here he was taken by the governor of New Mexico and sent 
home by way of Chihuahua and San Antonio, thus putting a 
stop to his explorations. 

General Wilkinson, under whose orders Lieut. Pike was 
serving at the time, states, in a letter to him after his return, 
as follows : " The principal object of your expedition up the 
Arkansas was to discover the true position of the sources of 
Red river. This was not accomplished." Lieut. Pike, how- 
ever, from the most accurate information he could obtain, 
gives the geographical position of the sources of Red river as 
in latitude 33° N. and longitude 104° W. Again, in 1819- 
'20, Col. Long, of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, on his 
return from an exploration of the Missouri river and the coun- 
try lying between that stream and the head of the Arkansas, 
undertook to descend the Red river from its sources. The 
Colonel, in speaking of this in his interesting report, says : 
" We arrived at a creek having a westerly course, which we 
took to be a tributary of Red river. Having travelled down 
its valley about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of 
Indians, of the nation of ' Kaskias,' or ' Bad Hearts,' who 
gave us to understand that the stream. along which we were 
travelling was Red river. We accordingly continued our march 
down the river several hundred miles further, when, to our 
no small disappointment, we discovered it was the Canadian 
of the Arkansas, instead of Red river, that we had been ex- 
ploring. 

" Our horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our 
long journey, which they had to perform barefooted, and the 
season being too far advanced to admit of our retracing our 
steps and going back again in quest of the source of Red 
river, with the possibility of exploring it before the commence- 
ment of winter, it was deemed advisable to give over the en- 



4 CONFUSED ACCOUNT OF RED RIVER* 

terprise for the present and make our way to the settlements 
on that Arkansas. We were led to the commission of this 
mistake in consequence of our not having been able to pro- 
cure a good guide acquainted with that part of the country, 
Our only dependence in this respect was upon Pike's map, 
which assigns to the head-waters of Red river the apparent 
locality of those of the Canadian." 

Dr. James, who accompanied Colonel Long, in his journal 
of the expedition, says : " Several persons have recently ar- 
rived at St. Louis, in Missouri, from Santa Fe, and among 
others the brother of Captain Shreeves, who gives information 
of a large and frequented road, which runs nearly due east 
from that place, and strikes one of the branches of the Cana- 
dian ; that, at a considerable distance south of this jxnnt, in 
the high plain, is the principal source of Red river. 

" His account confirms an opinion we had previously 
formed, namely: that the branch of the Canadian explored 
by Major Long's party in August, 1820, has its sources near 
those of some stream which descends towards the west into 
the Rio del Norte, and consequently that some other region 
must contain the head of Red river." He continues : 

"From a careful comparison of all the information we have 
been able to collect, we are satisfied that the stream on which 
we encamped on the 31st of August is the Rio Raijo of Hum- 
boldt, long mistaken for the sources of Red river of Natchito- 
ches. In a region of red clay and sand, where all the streams 
become nearly the color of arterial blood, it is not surprising 
that several rivers should have received the same name ; nor 
is it surprising that so accurate a topographer as the Baron 
Humboldt, having learned that a Red river rises forty or fifty 
miles east of Santa Fe, and runs to the east, should conjec- 
ture it might be the source of Red river of Natchitoches. 

" This conjecture (for it is no more) we believed to have 
been adopted by our geographers, who have with much con- 
fidence made their delineations and their accounts to corres- 
pond with it." 

Hence it will be seen that up to this time there is no record 
of any traveller having reached the sources of Red river, 
and that the country upon the head-waters of that stream has 
heretofore been unexplored. The Mexicans and Indians on 
the borders of Mexico are in the habit of calling any river, 
the waters of which have a red appearance, "Rio Colorado," 
or Red river, and they have applied this name to the Cana- 
dian in common with several others ; and as many of the prai- 



REPAIR TO FORT SMITH. O 

rie Indians often visit the Mexicans, and some even speak the 
Spanish language, it is a natural consequence that they should 
adopt the same nomenclature for rivers, places, &c. Thus, 
if a traveller in New Mexico were to inquire for the head of 
Red river, he would most undoubtedly be directed to the 
Canadian, and the same would also be the case in the adja- 
cent Indian country. These facts will account for the mis- 
take into which Baron Humboldt was led, and it will also 
account for the error into which Colonel Long and Lieut. 
Pike have fallen in regard to the sources of the stream which 
we call Red river. 

Dr. Greg?, in his "Commerce of the Prairies," tells us that 
on his way down the south bank of the Canadian his Co- 
manche guide, Manuel, (who, by-the-by, travelled six hun- 
dred miles with me upon the plains, and whom I always 
found reliable,) pointed out to him breaks or bluffs upon a 
stream to the south of the Canadian, near what we ascer- 
tained to be the true position of the head of the north branch 
of Red river, and where it approaches within twenty-five 
miles of the Canadian. These bluffs he said were upon the 
" Rio Negro," which the Doctor supposed to be the Washita. 
river ; but after having examined that section of country, I 
am satisfied that the north branch of Red river must have 
been alluded to by my guide, as the Washita rises further to 
the east. It therefore seems probable that "Rio Negro is the 
name which the Mexicans have applied to Red river of Lou- 
isiana. 

Immediatel} r on the receipt of the foregoing order I repaired 
to Fort Smith, Arkansas, where the Quartermaster General 
had directed that transportation should be furnished me, but 
on arriving there I learnedathat nearly ail the means of trans- 
portation had a short time before been transferred to the 
depot at Preston, Texas. Captain Montgomery, the quarter- 
master at Fort Smith, manifested every disposition to facili- 
tate my movements, and supplied me with ten most excellent 
horses, with which I proceeded on to Preston. At this point 
I made a requisition upon the quartermaster for a sufficient 
number of teams to transport supplies of subsistence, aud 
baggage for my command, for five months. These were 
promptly furnished by Bvt. Major George Wood, to whom I 
am under many obligations for his active and zealous co- 
operation in supplying me with such articles as were neces- 
sary for the expedition. With but few resources at his com- 
mand, with animals that had been worked down, and, in 



6 DEPARTURE FROM FORT BELKNAP. 

consequence of the scarcity of grain, very poor, and with 
parts of old wagons much worn, he succeeded in a very few 
days in fitting me out with twelve ox teams that performed 
very good service. 

As my company was at Fort Belknap upon the Brazos 
river, one hundred and sixty miles from Preston, and as the 
route by way of Fort Arbuckle to the mouth of Cache creek 
(the initial point of my reconnoissance upon Red river), is 
much the shortest, I determined to leave my supply train 
under the charge of a wagonmaster to bring forward over 
this route, and to proceed myself to Fort Belknap and march 
my company over the other trail, uniting with the train at the 
mouth of Cache creek. 

I accordingly reached Fort Belknap on the 30th of April, 
and on the 2d of May left with my company, marching over 
the Fort Arbuckle road as far as where it intersects Red 
river. As our road led us along near the valley of the Little 
Witchita, I took occasion to examine it more particularly 
than I had ever done before, and foiand it a much more de- 
sirable section of country than I had imagined. 

The soil in the valley is very productive ; the timber, con- 
sisting of overcup, white-oak, elm, hackberry, and wild china, 
is large and abundant, and the adjoining prairie is covered 
with a heavy growth of the very best grass. The stream at 
fifteen miles above its confluence with Red river is twenty 
feet wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current, the water 
clear and sweet. 

From the point where I first struck it, good farms could be 
made along the whole course of the creek to its mouth. The 
country adjoining is high, rolling prairie, interspered here and 
there with groves of post-oak, a nd*p resents to the eye a most 
pleasing appearance. 

From the Little Witchita we ascended Red river along the 
south bank, over very elevated swells of undulating prairie, 
for twenty-five miles, when, on the 9th, we reached the high 
bluffs of a large tributary called the ' 4 Big Witchita river/'' 
This stream flows over a clay bed from the southwest and 
enters Red river about eight miles below Cache creek. It is 
a deep, sluggish stream, one hundred and thirty feet wide, 
the water at a high stage very turbid, being heavily charged 
with red sedimentary matter ; the banks abrupt and high, 
and composed of indurated red clay and dark sandstone. 
The river is very tortuous in its course, winding from one side 
to the other of a valley a mile in width, covered with a luxu- 



THE BIG WITCHITA. 7 

riant sward of nutritious mezquite grass, which affords the 
very best pasturage for animals. 

The latitude of this place is 34° 25' 51". 

There are but few trees on the borders of the Big Witchita : 
occasionally a small grove of cotton-wood and hackbery is 
seen j but, with this exception, there is no timber or fuel near. 

The valley of the river for ten miles above the mouth (the 
portion I examined) is shut in by bluffs about one hundred 
feet high, and these are cut up by numerous ravines, in many 
of which we found springs of pure cold water. The water 
in the main stream, however, is brackish and unpalatable. 

It is my impression that the Big Witchita is of sufficient 
magnitude to be navigable with small steamers of light 
draught at almost any stage of water. 

In consequence of the high water in Red river, we were 
detained at the mouth of the Witchita until the morning of 
the 12th. during which time our provisions being almost con- 
sumed, and not knowing positively when our wagon train 
would join us, I took two Indians with packhorses, swam the 
river, and started out in quest 'of it. After going about 
twenty-five miles towards Fort Arbuckle, we struck the trail 
of the wagons, and, following it two miles, overtook them. 
They had been detained several days by heavy rains, which 
had rendered the ground very soft, and in many places 
almost impassable. In consequence of this, some of the 
wagons had been broken, and the repairs caused a still 
further detention. Early on the following morning, after 
packing the horses with provisions, we returned to where we 
had left the command, and on our arrival found that the 
water in the river had fallen sufficiently to admit of fording. 
Accordingly, on the morning of the 12th, during a violent 
rain, we commenced the crossing, which was anything but 
good, as the quicksand in the bed of the river was such as 
to make it necessary to keep the wagons in constant motion. 
The moment they stopped, the wheels would sink to the 
axles, requiring much force to extricate them. By placing a 
number of men upon each side of the mules and wagons to 
assist them when necessary, we however succeeded in reach- 
ing the opposite bank without any serious accident. The 
latitude at the point where we crossed is 34° 29'. The river 
is here two hundred yards wide and four feet deep, with a 
current of three miles per hour ; the banks upon each side 
low and sandy, but not subject to overflow. Passing out 
through the timbered land on the bottoms, we ascended the 



O CACHE CREEK. 

high bluff bordering the valley by a gradual slope of about a 
mile, which brought us upon a very elevated prairie, with the 
valley of Cache creek in view directly before us. We arrived, 
there on the evening of the 13th, but found that the train had 
not yet come up. During our march to-day we passed a 
small stream flowing into Red river, and directly at the 
point of crossing, in a gulley washed out by the rains, we 
found many pieces of copper ore, of a very rich quality? 
lying upon the surface.* Our time, however was too limited 
to admit of a thorough examination of the locality. 

Cache creek is a stream of very considerable magnitude, 
one hundred and fifty feet wide and three feet deep, with a 
current of four miles per hour, flowing over a hard clay and 
gravel bed between high abrupt banks, through a valley one 
mile in width, of rich black alluvion, and bordered by the best 
timber I have yet met with west of the Cross Timbers. 

Several varieties of hard wood — such as overcup, pecan, 
elm, hackberry, ash, and wild china — are found here, among 
which there is much good timber. The overcup (Quercus 
macrocarpa) especially, is here seen of very unusual size, 
often from three to four feet in diameter. 

This tree, from the length of its stock, the straightness of 
its grain, and the facility with which it splits, is admirably 
adapted to building purposes, and is made use of extensively 
in the southwestern States. 

The soil in the valley is of such superior quality, that any 
kind of grain adapted to this climate could be produced with- 
out the aid of irrigalion.f 



* An analysis of this ore by Professor Shephard gives the following results : 

Copper (with traces of iron) 35.30 

Silica 30.60 

Oxygen and water 34.10 



100.00 



f An analysis of the sub-soil from Cache creek, by Professor Shephard, shows 
that it possesses strong and enduring constituents, and is admirably suited to 
the production of grain. It is eminently calcareous, as will be seen from the 
following analysis of its composition : 

Silica 82.25 

Peroxide of iron 2.65 

Alumina .55 

Carbonate of lime 5.40 



FORKS OF THE CREEK. 9 

Three miles above the mouth the stream divides into two 
branches, of about equal magnitude, both of them wooded 
throughout as far as I traced them, and the soil along them 
arable in the highest degree ; indeed, its fertility is manifest 
from the very dense and rank vegetation everywhere ex- 
hibited. The water in the creek is alkaline, but quite pala- 
table ; and its temperature at the time we encamped upon 
it was 75° F. Our supply train arrived on the 14th, but as 
the recent rains had raised the water in the creek so much as 
to prevent our crossing, we were obliged to remain here until 
the 16th. 

This being the point upon Red river at which we were 
directed to commence our exploration, I propose from this 
time to make such extracts Jrom my journal as I may con- 
ceive pertinent to the objects of the expedition, as set forth in 
the letter of special instructions, which I had the honor to 
receive from your office, with such other information as may 
be considered important, and the conclusions which I have 
arrived at after an examination of the whole country embraced 
within the limits of our reconnoissance. 

On the morning of the 16th the water had fallen so much, 
that after digging down the banks, the wagons were taken 
over without difficulty. We found an excellent ford upon a 
rapid, where the water was shallow, and the bed hard gravel. 

Passing through the timbered land in the bottom, we struck 
out across the valley, and ascended the ridge dividing Red 
river from Cache creek; here we found a good road over 
smooth, high prairie, and after travelling 14.789 miles, en- 
camped upon a small affluent of the west fork of Cache creek, 
where we found good water and wood. In the course of the 
march to-day, we met with numerous detached pieces of cop- 
per ore, mixed with volcanic scoria.* This scoria is found in 



Carbonate of magnesia ].70 

Water (hygrometric moisture) 5.50 

Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash (only slight traces) .00 



98.05 



* These ores consisted of a calcareous amygdaloid, through which is inter- 
spersed black oxide of copper and stains of malachite. According to Professor 
Shephard's analysis, it only yields five per cent, of copper. 

Upon the river, a few miles south of our route, we found specimens of a very 
rich ore, which Professor Shephard, after a careful analysis, pronounces to be a 



10 



INDIAN SIGNS. 



large masses in the ravines we have passed, and extends 
back several miles from the creek. The other rocks have 
been principally sandstone. In the course of the day's march 
we observed several Indian horse-tracks crossing our road, 
which were made just previous to the last rain. The direc- 
tion they had been going was towards the Witchita moun- 
tains, and are the first Indian signs we have seen. 



new species, which he has called Marcylite ; it was coated with a thin layer of 
the rare and beautiful Atacamite, (muriate of copper,) and consists of— 

Copper. 54.30 

Oxygen and chloride 36.20 

Water 9,50 

100.00 



WITCHITA MOUNTAINS. 11 



CHAPTER II. 

Witchita mountains — Panther killed — Buffalo tracks — Singular and unac- 
countable rise of water — Buffalo signs — Horse captured — Rains — Arrival 
at Otter creek — Barometer broke — Character of Witchita mountains — 
Buffalo killed — High water. 

Soon after we had reached the high prairie ridge upon 
which we had travelled to-day, we come in sight of the 
Witchita mountains, some twenty-five or thirty miles to the 
north, the chain seeming to be made up of a series of de- 
tached peaks, running from the northeast to the southwest, as 
far as the eye can reach. Rising as these mountains do upon the 
naked prairie, isolated from all other surrounding eminences, 
they form a very striking and prominent feature in the typog- 
raphy of the country. We cannot yet form any definite esti- 
mate as to their height, but shall avail ourselves of the first 
opportunity to determine this point. 

May 17. — On rising this morning I learned, much to my 
surprise, that nearly all our oxen had wandered off during the 
night, and had not yet been found. I immediately sent seven 
of the teamsters in search of them ; but after being absent 
two hours, they returned unsuccessful, reporting that they 
could get no track of them. I then started with one of our 
Delawares, and after going a short distance from camp took 
the track, and following it about a mile, came up with the 
animals, who had very quietly esconsed themselves in a grove 
of timber near the creek. 

As they had upon several occasions before given us trouble, 
and occasioned the loss of much time, I resolved that in future 
I would have them herded until late in the evening, and tie 
them to the wagons for the remainder of the night. 

As we did not march until very late this morning, we only 
made eleven miles, and encamped upon one of the branches 
of Cache creek. 

Our road has continued upon the high ridge tying between 
Red river and Cache creek, and has been perfectly firm, 
smooth, and level. 

We have to-day seen the first buffalo tracks. They were 



12 



PANTHER KILLED. 



made during the last rains, and are about five days old. We 
are anxiously awaiting the time when we shall see the ani- 
mals themselves, and anticipate much sport. 

In the evening, shortly after we had turned out our ani- 
mals to graze, and had made everything snug and comfortable 
about us, ourselves reclining very quietly after the fatigue of 
the day's march, one of the hunters came into camp and 
informed us that a panther had crossed the creek but a short 
distance above, and was coming towards us. This piece of 
intelligence, as may be supposed, created no little excitement 
in our quiet circle. Everybody was up in an instant, seizing 
muskets, rifles, or any other weapon that came to hand, and, 
followed by all the dogs in camp, a very general rush was 
made towards the spot indicated by the Delaware. On 
reaching the place, we found where the animal, in stepping 
from the creek, had left water upon his track, which was not 
yet dry, showing that he had passed within a short time. We 
pointed out the track to several of the dogs, and endeavored, 
by every means which our ingenuity could suggest, to inspire 
them with some small degree of that enthusiasm which had 
animated us. We coaxed, cheered, and scolded, put their 
noses into the track, clapped our hands, pointed in the direc- 
tion of the trail, hissed, and made use of divers other canine 
arguments to convince them that there was something of im- 
portance on hand ; but it was all to no purpose. They did 
not seem to enter into the spirit of the chase, or to regard the 
occasion as one in which there was much glory to be derived 
from following in the footsteps of their illustrious predecessor. 
On the contrary, the zeal which they manifested in starting- 
out from camp, suddenly abated as soon as their olfactories 
came in contact with the track, and it was with very great 
difficulty that we could prevent them from running away. 
At this moment, however, our old bear-dog came up, and no 
sooner had he caught a snuff of the atmosphere than, sud- 
denly coming to a stop and raising his head into the air, he 
sent forth one prolonged note, and started off in full cry upon 
the trail. He led off boldly into the timber, followed by the 
other dogs, who had now recovered confidence, with the men 
at their heels, cheering them on and shouting most vocifer- 
ously, each one anxious to get the first glimpse of the panther. 
They soon roused him from his lair, and after making a few 
circuits around the grove, he took to a tree. 

I was so fortunate as to reach the spot a little in advance 
of the party, and gave him a shot which brought him to the 



SUDDEN RISE OP WATER. id 

ground. The dogs then closed in with him, and others of the 
party coming up directly afterwards, fired several shots, which 
took effect, and soon placed him "hors du combat." He was 
a fine specimen of the North American cougar (Fclis concohr,) 
measuring eight and a half feet from his nose to the extremity 
of his tail. 

May 18. — At 6 o'clock this morning we resumed our march, 
taking a course leading to the crest of the " divide," as we 
thereby avoided many ravines which extended off' upon each 
side towards the stream, and. were always sure of a good road 
for our wagons. This ridge runs very nearly on our course, 
but occasionally takes us some distance from Red river ; as, 
for example, our encampment of last night was about nine 
miles from the river, and we only came in sight of it once in 
the course of our march yesterday. 

As soon as the train was under way this morning, Capt. 
McClellan and myself crossed over the dividing ridge and 
rode to Red river. We found the bed of the stream about 
seven hundred yards wide ; the valley enclosed with high bluffs 
upon each side ; the soil in the bottom arenaceous, supporting a 
very spare herbage ; and the water very turbid, and spread 
over a large surface of sand. The general course of the 
river at this point is a few degrees north of west. 

We are all in eager expectation of soon falling in with the 
buffalo, as we have seen the fresh tracks of quite a large herd 
to-day. As we advance, the country, away from the borders 
of the water-courses, becomes more barren, and woodlands 
are less frequently met with; indeed, upon the river there is 
no other timber but cotton wood (Pojndus angulata,) and elm 
{TJlmus Americana,) and these in very small quantities ; for the 
most part the valley of the river along where we passed to- 
day is entirely destitute of trees. 

We have seen near here several varieties of birds, among 
which I observed the meadow lark (Sturnella ludoviciana,) the 
pinnated grouse or prairie hen (Telrao cupido,) the Virginia 
partridge (Ortyx Virginianus,) the killdeer {Charadrius voci- 
ferous,) and several varieties of small birds. We encamped 
upon a small affluent of Cache creek, where, on our arrival, 
we found no water except in occasional pools along the bed ; 
however, in the course of an hour some of the men, who had 
gone a short distance up the creek, came running back into 
camp and crying at the top of their voices "Here comes a 
plenty of water for us, boys!" And, indeed, in a few min- 
utes, much to our astonishment and delight, (as we were 



14 BUFFALO SIGNS. 

doubtful about having a supply,) a perfect torrent came rush- 
ing down the dry bed of the rivulet, filling it to the top of the 
banks, and continued running, turbid and covered with froth, 
as long as we remained. Our Delawares regarded this as a 
special favor from the Great Spirit, and looked upon it as a 
favorable augury to the success of our enterprise. To us it 
Was a most inexplicable phenomenon, as the weather for the 
last three days had been perfectly dry, with the sky cloudless. 
If the stream had been of much magnitude we should have 
supposed that the water came from a distance where there 
had been rains; but it was very small, extending not more 
than three miles from the point where we encamped. 

Our Delawares report that they have seen numerous fresh 
buffalo " signs," and that we shall probably soon come upon 
the herds. We have captured a horse to-clay which has a 
brand upon him, and has probably strayed away from some 
party of Indians. 

May .19. — Last evening the sky became overcast with 
heavy clouds, and frequent flashes of lightning were observed 
near the horizon in the north and northwest. Atmospheric 
phenomena of this character are regarded by the inhabitants 
of northern Texas as infallible indications of rain, and in veri- 
fication thereof we had a very severe storm during the night. 
Much rain has fallen, and the earth has become so soft that I 
have concluded to remain here until the ground dries a little, 
particularly as it still continues raining at intervals, and the 
weather is very much unsettled. Frequent rains are very 
unusual upon the plains at this season of the year ; the rainy 
season generally lasts until about the first of May, when the 
dry season sets in, and there is seldom any more rain until 
about the middle of August. The past spring has been un- 
commonly dry— -so much so, that vegetation has suffered from 
it: now, however, the herbage is verdant and the grass most 
luxuriant. 

May 20. — -Although it continued raining violently during 
the night, and the ground was this morning mostly covered 
with water, we yet made an attempt to travel, but found the 
prairie so soft that it was with very great difficulty our teams 
were enabled to drag the wagons over it. We only made 
five miles and encamped upon a small affluent of Cache 
creek, which with all the small branches in the vicinity were 
full to the top of their banks. We find but few trees along 
the branch upon which we are encamped; hackberry and 
wild china are the only varieties. 



BAROMETER BROKEN. lO 

On the 21st we again made an effort to travel; but after 
going a short distance up the creek, found ourselves obliged - 
in consequence of the mud, to encamp and await dry weather. 

May 22.— Thig morning, notwithstanding it was cloudy 
and the ground very far from being dry, we made another 
effort to proceed. Still keeping the high "divide," we trav- 
elled in a westerly direction about eight miles, when we turn- 
ed north towards two -very prominent peaks of the Witchka 
mountains, and continued in this course until we arrived upon 
an elevated spot in the prairie, where we suddenly came in 
sight of Red river, directly before us. Since we had last 
seen the river it had changed its course almost by a right 
angle, and here runs nearly north and south, passing through 
the chain of mountains in front of us. We continued on for 
four miles further, when we reached a fine, bold, running 
creek of good water, which we were all rejoiced to see, as 
we had found no drinkable water during the day. We en- 
camped about four miles above its confluence with Red river. 

This stream, which I have called Otter creek, (as those 
animals are abundant here,) rises in the Wichita mountains, 
and runs a course south 25° west. There are several varie- 
ties of wood upon its banks, such as pecan, black walnut, 
white ash, elm, hackberry, cotton-wood, wild china, willow? 
and mezquite ; and among these I noticed good building tim- 
ber. The soil in the valley is a dark loam, and produces a 
heavy vegetation. The sub-soil is argillaceous. Otter creek 
is fifty feet wide, and one foot deep at a low stage of water.* 
The country over which we have passed to-day has been an 
elevated plateau, totally devoid of timber or water, and the 
soil very thin and sandy. We have not yet come in sight of 
any buffaloes, but have seen numerous fresh tracks. Antelopes 
and deer are very abundant, and We occasionally see turkeys 
and grouse. Captain MtClellan was so unfortunate as to 
break his mountain barometer last night, which is much to be 
regretted ; as we had brought it so far in safety, we suppose'd 
all danger was passed, but by some unforseen accident it was 
turned over in his tent and the mercurial tube brolen. For- 
tunately, we have an excellent aneroid barometer, w r hich we 
have found to correspond very accurately with the other up 
to this time, and we shall now be obliged to make use of it 
exclusively. 

*The temperature of the water in the creek at our encampment we found to 
be 720 F. 



16 OTTER CREEK. 

On ascending Otter creek this morning as high as the point 
where it debouches from the mountains, I found the timber 
skirting its banks the entire distance, and increasing in quan- 
ty as it nears the mountains. The mountains at the head of 
the creek have abrupt rugged sides of coarse, soft, flesh-col- 
ored granite, mixed with other granulated igneous rocks. 
Greenstone, quartz, porphyry, and agate are seen in veins 
running through the rocks, and in some pieces of quartz, 
which were found by Dr. Shumard in the bed of the creek, 
there were minute particles of gold. As the continued rains 
have made the ground too soft to admit of travelling at pres- 
ent, we are improving the time by laying in a supply of coal, 
timber, &c, for our journey on the plains. 

May 24. — It commenced raining again during the night, 
and has continued without cessation all day. 

May 25. — It has rained violently during all of last night, 
and has not ceased this morning. When this long storm will 
abate we do not pretend to form even a conjecture. It has 
occurred to me that possibly these rains may fall annually in 
the basin of Upper Red river; thus, perhaps, accounting for 
what is termed the June rise in the river. As to the cause of 
this rise there have been various conjectures ; some supposing 
the river to have its sources in elevated mountain ranges, 
where the melting of the snows would produce this result ; 
others, again, consider it to be by rains upon the head-waters 
of the river. This latter idea, however, seems rather im- 
probable, as the country west of the Cross Timbers, so far as 
known, is generally subjected to very great drought from May 
to August. We are now in the immediate vicinity of the 
Witchita mountains, and it is possible they may have an ef- 
fect upon the weather by condensing the moisture in the at- 
mosphere, and causing rain in this particular locality. 

May 26.— Some of the mountain* which we ascended yes- 
terday upon the east side of the creek, exhibited a conforma- 
tion and composition similar to those upon the west side — that 
of a coarse, soft, flesh-colored granite, the peaks conical, oc- 
casionally* terminating in sharp points, standing at intervals 
of from a quarter to one mile apart. In some instances the 
rocks are thrown together loosely, but here and there showing 
a very imperfect and irregular stratification, with the seams 
dipping about twenty degrees with the horizon. The direc- 
tion of this mountain chain is about south 60° west, and from 
five to fifteen miles in breadth. Its length we are not yet able to 
determine. Red river, which passes directly through the wes- 



MINERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 17 

tern extremity of the chain, is different in character at the 
mouth of Otter creek from what it is below the junction of 
the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no. There it is only one hundred and 
twenty yards wide ; the banks of red clay are from three to 
eight feet high, the water extending entirely across the bed, 
and at this time (a high stage) about six feet deep in the chan- 
nel, with a rapid current of four miles per hour, highly 
charged with a dull-red sedimentary matter, and slightly 
brackish to the taste. Two buffaloes were seen to-day, one 
of which was killed by our guide, John Bashman. 

Deer and antelopes are plenty, but turkeys are becoming 
scarce as we go west ; grouse and quail are also occasionally 
seen here. As Otter creek continues very high, I intended, if 
Red river had been fordable, to have crossed that stream this 
morning and continued up the south bank ; but we found the 
water about eight feet deep, and have no other alternative but 
to wait until it falls. Along the banks of Red river, for the 
last thirty miles, we have observed a range of sand-hills, from 
ten to thirty feet high, which appear to have been thrown up 
by the winds, and support a very spare vegetation of weeds, 
grape-vines, and plum-bushes. Upon the river the timber has 
diminished so much that we now find only here and there a 
few solitary cotton-woods. 

From the fact that the Witchita mountains are composed 
almost entirely of granite and other silicious rocks that usually 
accompany metallic veins, and that in many places along the 
range they bear evident marks of great local disturbance, and 
from the many detached specimens of copper ore found upon 
the surface throughout this region, I have no doubt but that 
this will be found, upon examination, to be a very productive 
mineral district. 



18 WITCHITAS. 



CHAPTER III. 

Witchitas — Discouraging accounts of the country in advance — Pass 100° of 
longitude — Leave Otter creek — Berries — Elk creek — Pass Witchita moun- 
tains — Gypsum bluffs — Buffaloes seen — Suydam creek — Comanche signs. 

May 27. — As the water still continues at too high a stage 
for crossing, we moved our camp up the creek about a mile 
this morning, where we found better grass for our animals. 
Shortly after we had pitched our tents, a large party of In- 
dians made their appearance on the opposite bank, and re- 
quested us to cut a tree for them to cross upon, as they wished 
to have "a talk" with " the captain." I accordingly had a 
tall tree cut, which fell across the stream, when they came 
over upon it and encamped near us. 

They proved to be a hunting party of Witchitas, about one 
hundred and fifty in number, and were commanded by an old 
chief, " Canaje-Hexie." They had with them a large num- 
ber of horses and mules, heavily laden with jerked buffalo 
meat, and ten wild horses which they had lassoed upon the 
prairie. They said they had been in search of us for several 
days ; having learned we were comiug up Red river, they 
were desirous of knowing what our business was in this part 
of their country. I replied to them that I was going to the 
head of Red river, for the purpose of visiting the Indians, cul- 
tivating their friendship, and delivering to them "a talk" from 
the Great Captain of all the whites, who, in token of his kindly 
feelings, had sent some presents to be distributed among such of 
his red children as were friends to Americans; and as many of 
them continue to regard Texas as a separate and independent 
republic, I endeavored to impress upon them the fact that the 
inhabitants of that State were of the same nation as the whites 
in other parts of the United States. I also told them that all 
the prairie tribes would be held responsible for depredations 
committed against the people of Texas, as well as elsewhere 
in our territories. I made inquiries concerning the country 
through which we still have to pass in our journey. 

They said we would find one more stream of good water 
about two days' travel from here ; that we should then leave 



DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS. 19 

the mountains, and after that find no more fresh water to the 
sources of the river. The chief represented the river from 
where it leaves the mountains as flowing over an elevated flat 
prairie country, totally destitute of water, wood, or grass, 
and the only substitute for fuel that could be had was the buf- 
falo " chips." They remarked in the course of the interview 
that some few of their old men had been to the head of the 
river, and that the journey could be made in eighteen days by 
rapid riding ; but the accounts given by those who had made 
the journey were of such a character as to deter others from 
attempting it. They said we need have no apprehension of 
encountering Indians, as none ever visited that section of the 
country. I inquired of them if there were not holes in the earth 
where the water remained after rains. They said no ; that the 
soil was of so porous a nature that it soaked up the water as 
soon as it fell. 1 then endeavored to hire one of their old men 
to accompany me as guide ; but they said they were afraid to 
go into the country, as there was no water, and they were fear- 
ful they would perish before they could return. The chief 
said, in conclusion, that perhaps I might not credit their state- 
ments, but that I would have abundant evidence of the truth 
of their assertions if I ventured much further with my com- 
mand. This account of the country ahead of us is truly dis- 
couraging ; and it would seem that we have anything but an 
agreeable prospect before us. As soon, however, as the creek 
will admit of fording I shall, without subjecting the command 
to too great privations, push forward as far as possible into 
this most inhospitable and dreaded salt desert. As the In- 
dians, from their own statements, had travelled a great dis- 
tance to see us, I distributed some presents among them, with 
a few rations of pork and flour, for which we received their 
acknowledgments in their customary style — by begging for 
everything else they saw. 

May 28. — Capt. McClellan has, by observations upon lunar 
distances, determined the longitude of our last camp upon the 
creek to be 100° 0'45 v , which is but a short distance from the 
point where the line dividing the Choctaw territory from the 
State of Texas crosses Red river. The point where this line 
intersects Otter creek is marked upon a large elm tree standing 
near the bank, and it will be found about tour miles from the 
mouth of the creek upon the south side, with the longitude 
(100° 0' 45") and the latitude (34° 34' 6") distinctly marked 
upon it. 

Captain McClellan will start to-morrow morning for the 



20 PASS THE 100° OF WEST LONGITUDE. 

purpose of running the meridian of the 100th degree of longi- 
tude to where it intersects Red river, and will mark the point 
distinctly. 

May 29. — After digging down the banks of the creek this 
morning, we were enabled to cross the train and resume our 
march up the river ; our course led us towards the point 
where the river debouches from the mountains, and our pres- 
ent encampment is directly at the base of one of the peaks, 
near a spring of good water. This mountain is composed of 
huge masses of loose granite rock, thrown together in such 
confusion that it is seldom any portion can be seen in its orig- 
inal position. There are veins of quartz, greenstone, and 
porphyry running through the granite, similar to those that 
characterize the gold-bearing formation of California, New 
Mexico, and elsewhere. This fact, in connection with our 
having found some small particles of gold in the detritus along 
the bed of Otter creek, may yet lead to the discovery of import- 
ant auriferous deposites in these mountains. Among the border 
settlers of Texas and Arkansas, an opinion has for a long time 
prevailed that gold was abundant here, and several expeditions 
have been organized among them for the purpose of making- 
examinations, but the Indians have opposed their operations,, 
and in every instance, I believe, compelled them to abandon 
the enterprise and return home, so that as yet no thorough ex- 
amination of the mountains has ever been made.* 

We find blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and cur- 
rants growing upon the mountains ; and this is the only local- 
ity west of the Cross Timbers where I have seen them. 
Grapes and plums are also abundant here, as elsewhere, upon 
Upper Red river- The grapes are rather smaller than our 
fox-grapes, are sweet and juicy when ripe, and I have no 
doubt would make good wine ; they grow upon small bushes 
about the size of currant-bushes, standing erect like them, and 
are generally found upon the most sandy soil, along near the 
jborders of the streams. The plums also grow upon small 
bushes from two to six feet high, are very large and sweety 
fand in color vary from a light pink to a deep crimson ; they 
pre the Chicasaw plum, (Primus chicasa.) 

* Specimens of quartz and black sand were collected in the mountains ; and 
from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites in the quartz, 
and from its similarity to the gold-bearing quartz of California, we were induced 
to hope that it might contain gold, but a rigid analysis by Professor Shephard 
did not detect any trace of the precious metal. 



RED RIVER. 21 

May 30. — Captain McClellan returned this morning, having 
traced the meridian of the 100th degree of west longitude to 
where it strikes Red river. This point he ascertained to be 
about six miles below the junction of the two principal 
branches, and three-fourths of a mile below a small creek 
which puts in from the north upon the left bank, near where 
the river bends from almost due west to north. At this point 
a cotton-wood tree, standing fifty feet from the water, upon 
the summit of a sand hill, is blazed upon four sides, facing 
north, south, east, and west, and upon these faces will be 
found the following inscriptions : upon the north side " Texas, 
100° longitude ; " upon the south side, "Choctaw Nation, 
100° longitude ; " upon the east side, "Meridian of 100°, 
May 29, 1852;" and upon the west side Captain McClellan 
marked my name, with the date. At the base of the sand- 
hill will be found four cotton-wood trees, upon one of which 
is marked " Texas," and upon another will be found inscribed 
"20 miles from Otter Creek." 

Red river at this place is a broad, shallow stream, six hun- 
dred and fifty yards wide, running over a bed of sand. Its 
course is nearly due west to the forks, and thence the course 
of the south branch is WNW. for eight miles, when it turns 
to nearly NW. The two branches are apparently of about 
equal magnitude, and between them, at the confluence, is a 
very high bluff, which can be seen for a long distance around. 
We are encamped to-night near two mountains, about three 
miles from the river, and one mile west of the head of the 
west branch of Otter creek, near a spring of pure cold water, 
which rises in the mountains and runs down past our camp. 
Our road leads along near the creek valley, which is from one 
to two miles wide, with a very productive soil, covered with 
a dense coating of grass, and skirted with a variety of hard 
timber. 

May 31. — Our course to-day was northwest until we ■en- 
countered a bold running stream of good water, forty feet 
wide and three feet deep, flowing between very high and al- 
most vertical red clay banks, through a broad, flat valley, 
about two miles wide, of a dark alluvial soil, the fertility of 
which is obvious from the dense vegetation which it supports. 

There is a narrow fringe of pecan, elm, hackberry, black 
walnut, and cotton-wood, along the banks of the creek ; but 
the timber is not so abundant, or of as good a quality, as that 
upon Otter creek. The abrupt banks made it necessary for 
us to let our wagons down with ropes. We, however, crossed 



22 ELK CREEK. 

in a short time, and marched about three miles further, en- 
'camping near a small spring of good water, where the wood 
and grass were abundant. 

From the circumstance of having seen elk tracks upon the 
stream we passed in our march to-day, I have called it "Elk 
creek." I am informed by our guide that five years since elk 
were frequently seen in the Witchita mountains ; but now 
they are seldom met with in this part of the country. 

The deer and antelopes still continue plenty, but turkeys 
are scarce. 

One that our greyhounds caught to-day is the first we have- 
seen for several days. The pinnated grouse, quail, lark, 
mocking-bird, and swallow-tailed fly-catcher, are also fre- 
quently seen. 

June 1. — During our march to-day we passed along the 
borders of a swift-running rivulet of clear water, which issues 
from springs in the mountains, and is filled with a multitude 
of fish. We also passed near the base of a very prominent 
and symmetrical mountain, which can be seen for twenty 
miles upon our route, and is a most excellent landmark. Sev- 
eral of the gentlemen ascended this peak with the barometer, 
and its altitude, as thereby indicated, is seven hundred and 
eighty feet above the base. 

Captain McClellan has called this " Mount Webster," in 
honor of our great statesman ; and upon a rock directly at 
the summit he has chiselled the names of some of the gentle- 
men of the party. The valleys lying between many of these 
mountains have a soil which is arable in the highest decree. 

ml • 

I hey are covered with grasses, which our animals eat greed- 
ily. There are also many springs of cold, limpid water burst- 
ing out from the granite rocks of the mountains, and flowing 
down through the vallej^s, thereby affording us, at all times, 
a most delicious beverage, where we were led to believe, from 
the representations of the Witchitas, we would find only bitter 
and unpalatable water. This is an unexpected luxury to us, 
and we now begin to cherish the hope ttiat all the discourag- 
ing accounts of those Indians may prove equally erroneous. 

Taking an old Comanche trail this morning, I followed it 
to a narrow defile in the mountains, which led me up through 
a very tortuous and rocky gorge, where the well-worn path 
indicated that it had been travelled for many years. It pre- 
sented a most wild and romantic appearance as we passed 
along at the base of cliffs, which rose perpendicularly for 
several hundred feet directly over our heads upon either side. 



SALT FORK. 23 

We saw the tracks of several elk that had passed the defile 
the day previous. 

After crossing the mountains, we descended upon the south 
side, where we found the river flowing directly at the base ; 
and after ascending it about two miles, arrived at a point 
where it again divided into two nearly equal branches. The 
water in the south branch (which I have called "Salt Fork") 
Is bitter and unpalatable, and when taken into the stomach 
produces nausea; whereas that in the other branch, although 
not entirely free from salts, can be used in cases of great ex- 
tremity. The compound resulting from the mixture of the 
water in the two branches below the confluence is very dis- 
agreeable to the taste. The north branch, which I propose 
to ascend, is, near the junction, one hundred and five feet 
wide, and three feet deep, with a very rapid current, and the 
water of much lighter color than that in the Salt Fork. Three 
miles below the fork, between the river and the base of the 
mountains, there is a grove of post-oak timber, which Cap- 
tain McClellan, who examined it, estimates to cover an area 
of four or five hundred acres. This is well suited for build- 
ing purposes, being large, tall, and straight. There is also 
an extensive tract of mezquite woodland near our camp. 

One of the Dela wares caught two bear cubs in the moun- 
tains to-day ; one of which he brought in his arms to camp. 
As the mountain chain crosses the river near here, and runs 
to the south of our course, we shall leave it to-morrow, and 
launch out into the prairie before us, following up the bank of 
the river, which appears to flow through an almost level and 
uninterrupted plain, as far as the eye can extend. I have 
provided water-casks of sufficient capacity to contain water 
for the command for three days. I shall always have them 
filled whenever we find good water ; and I hope thereby to 
be enabled to reach the sources of the river without much 
suffering. I cannot leave these mountains without a feeling 
of sincere regret. The beautiful and majestic scenery through- 
out the whole extent of that portion of the chain we have 
traversed, with the charming glades lying between them, 
clothed with a luxuriant sward up to the very bases of the 
almost perpendicular and rugged sides, with the many springs 
of delicious water bursting forth from the solid walls of gran- 
ite, and bounding along over the debris at the base, forcibly 
reminds me of my own native hills, and the idea of leaving 
these for the desert plains gives rise to an involuntary feeling of 
melancholy similar to that I have experienced on leaving home. 



24 APPEARANCE OF GYPSUM. 

June 2. — We left our last night's camp at 3 o'clock this 
morning, and taking a course nearly clue west, emerged from 
the mountains out into the high level prairie, where we found 
neither wood nor water until we reached our present position, 
about half a mile from Red river, upon a small branch, with 
water standing in holes in the bed, and a few small trees scat- 
tered along the banks. The latitude at this point is 35° 3' ; 
longitude, 100° 12'. 

On leaving the vicinity of the mountains, we immediately 
strike a different geological formation. Instead of the gran- 
ite, we now find carbonate of lime and gypsum. The soil, 
except upon the stream, is thin and unproductive. The grass, 
however, is everywhere luxuriant. Our animals eat it eager- 
ly, and are constantly improving. Near our encampment 
there are several round, conical-shaped mounds, about fifty 
feet high, composed of clay and gypsum, which appear to 
have been formed from a gradual disintegration and washing 
away of the adjacent earth, leaving the sides exposed in such 
a manner as to exhibit a very perfect representation of the 
different strata. 

June, 3. — We were in motion again at 3 o'clock this morn- 
ing, our course leading us directly towards a very prominent 
range of hills situated upon the north bank of Red river, and 
immediately on the crest of the third terrace or bench border- 
ing the river valley. Their peculiar formation, and very ex- 
traordinary regularity, give them the appearance, in the dis- 
tance, of gigantic fortifications, capped with battlements of 
white marble. Upon examination they were found to consist 
of a basis of green or blue clay, with two super-strata of 
beautiful snow-white gypsum, from five to fifteen feet in thick- 
ness, resting horizontally upon a sub-stratum of red clay, with 
the edges wholly exposed, and so perfectly symmetrical that 
one can with difficulty divest himself of the idea that it must 
be the work of art, so much does it resemble masonry. In 
many places there are perfect representations of the re-enter- 
ing angles of a bastion front, with the glacis revetted with 
turf, and sloping gently to the river. Several springs issue 
from the bluffs, and (as I have always found it to be the case 
in the gypsum formation) the water is very bitter and disa- 
greeable to the taste. 

I am inclined to believe that this same formation extends 
in a southwesterly direction from the Canadian river to this 
place, as I passed through a belt of country upon that stream 
somewhat similar to this, and in a position to be a continua- 



COPPER ORE. 25 

tion of it. We crossed the river near the lower extremity of 
the bluffs, at a point where we found it fifty yards wide and 
sixteen inches deep, with a current of three miles per hour, 
running over a bed of quicksand. We passed without diffi- 
culty by keeping the animals in rapid motion while in the 
stream, and encamped upon the high bluff on the south side. 
By following up the course of a ravine in the side of the gyp- 
sum bluffs, where there were detached pieces of copper ore, 
we discovered a vein of this metal which proved to be the 
" green carbonate," but not of so rich a character as that we 
had seen before. At this point we are nearly opposite the 
western extremity of the chain of Witchita mountains.* 

June 4. — We made an early start this morning, and trav- 
elled in the direction of a chain of bluffs which appeared to us 
to be upon the branch of the river we were ascending ; but 
on reaching them we found ourselves upon a creek running 
towards the Salt Fork, the bluffs of which we could see from the 
top of an eminence near the creek, about eight miles distant. 

To regain our route we were obliged to turn directly north, 
and march about six miles in this direction, when we again 
came in sight of the main North Fork. In our route we have 
passed near several hills of similar formation to that of the 
gypsum bluffs before described. Sulphate of lime is found 
in large quantities throughout this section, and occurs in va- 
rious degrees of purity, from the common plaster of Paris to 
the most beautifully transparent selenite I have ever seen. I 
observed several specimens, from one to two inches in thick- 
ness, that were as absolutely colorless and limpid as pure water. 

We are encamped upon the elevated prairie, near a clump 
of trees, where we find water standing in pools. We have 
found the grass abundant, and the water and wood sufficiently 
so for our purposes at all our camps since we left our visitors, 
the Witchitas. 

* Professor Shephard's analysis of a specimen of the sub-soil from the valley of 
the river near our camp on the third June gives the following result : 

Silica 79.30 

Peroxide of iron 8.95 

Alumina 1.50 

Carbonate of lime 1.10 

Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and chloride of 

sodium 4.G5 

Water 4.50 

110.00 



26 BUFFALOES SEEN. 

As I was riding to-day with one of our Delawares, about 
three miles in advance of the train, we suddenly (as we rose 
upon an eninence in the prairie) came in sight of four buffalo 
cows with calves, very quietly grazing in a valley below us. 
We at once put spurs to our horses, and, with our rifles in 
readiness, set out at a brisk gallop in pursuit; but, unfortu- 
nately they had "the wind" of us, and were instantly bound- 
ing off over the hills at full speed. We followed them about 
three miles, but as they were much in advance at the outset, 
we could not overtake them without giving our horses more 
labor than we cared about, and so abandoned the chase. Our 
greyhounds caught two young deer upon the open prairie to- 
day, and they have had several chases in pursuit of the ante- 
lope, but have not as yet been able to come up with them. 
The latitude of our present position is 35° 15' 43". 

June 5. — After marching nearly a mile from our last camp, 
we crossed a running brook of clear water, which had a slightly 
suphurous taste and odor. It rises in the hills to the south- 
west, and runs rapidly, like a mountain stream, into the main 
river. The appearance of this stream reminded me so forcibly 
of some I have seen in the mountains of Pennsylvania, that I 
searched it faithfully, expecting to see the spotted trout, but 
only found a few sun-fish and minnows. 

From this brook to our present position, the country we 
traversed was exceedingly monotonous and uninteresting, be- 
ing a continuous succession of barren sand-hills, producing no 
other herbage than the artemisia, and a dense growth of 
dwarf oak bushes, about eighteen inches high, which seem to 
to have attained their full maturity, and bear an abundance of 
small acorns. The same bush is frequently met with upon 
the Canadian river near this longitude, and is always found 
upon a very sandy soil. Our camp is in the river valley, near 
a large spring of sulphurous water, in the midst of a grove 
of cotton-wood trees. Upon a creek we passed to-day on the 
opposite bank of the river we noticed pecan, elm, hackberry, 
and cotton-wood trees. The grass still continues good, and 
the water of the main river, although not good, can be used. 
The bed of the river is here one hundred yards wide, with but 
little water passing over the surface, being mostly absorbed 
by the quicksands. Our Indians brought in three deer this 
evening, and the greyhounds have caught a full-grown doe in 
a fair chase upon the open prairie. We occasionally see a 
few turkeys, but they are not as abundant as we found them 
below here. There are several varieties of birds around our 



SUYDAM CREEK. 27 

camp, amnng which we saw the white owl, meadows-lark, 
mocking-bird, king-bird, swallow, swallow-tailed fly-catcher, 
and quail. 

June 6. — Starting at 3 o'clock this morning, we crossed the 
river near our last camp, and passed over a very elevated 
and undulating prairie for ten miles, when we reached a large 
creek flowing into Red river, which, in compliment to my 
friend, Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New York city, who accom- 
panied the expedition, I have called " Suydam creek." It is 
thirty feet wide ; the water clear, but slightly brackish, and 
flows rapidly over a sandy bed between abrupt clay banks, 
which are fringed with cotton-wood trees. As the water in 
the main river near our camp is very bitter, we were obliged 
to make use of that in the creek. 

Above our present encampment there appears to be a 
range of sandhills, about three miles wide, upon each side of 
the river, which are covered with the same herbage as those 
we passed below here. 

We have seen the trail of a large party of Comanches, 
which our guide says passed here two days since, going south. 
I regret that we did not encounter them, as I was anxious to 
make inquiries concerning our onward route. These Indians 
were travelling with their families. Upon a war expedition 
they leave their families behind, and never carry lodges, 
encumbering themselves with as little baggage as possible. 
On the other hand, when they travel with their families, they 
always carry all their worldly effects, including their portable 
lodges, wherever they go ; and as they seldom find an en- 
campment upon the prairies where poles for the frame-work 
of the lodges can be procured, they invariably transport them 
from place to place, by attaching them to each side of the 
pack-horses, with one end trailing upon the ground. These 
leave parallel marks upon the soft earth after they have 
passed, and enable one at once to determine whether the trail 
is made by a war party or otherwise. The Comanches, during 
the past year, have not been friendly with the Delawares and 
Shawnees ; and although there has as yet been no organized 
demonstration of hostilities, they have secretly killed several 
men, and in consequence our hunters entertain a feeling of 
revenge towards them. They, however, go out alone every 
day upon their hunts, are frequently six or eight miles from 
the command, and seem to have no fears of the Comanches, 
as they are liable to encounter them at any moment ; and 
being so poorly mounted that they could not escape, their 



28 COMANCHE SIGNS. 

only alternative would be to act on the defensive. I havd 
cautioned them upon the subject several times, but they say) 
that they are not afraid to meet any of the prairie Indians, 
provided the odds are not greater than six to one. They are; 
well armed with good rifles — the use of which they under- 
stand perfectly — are intelligent, active, and brave, and in my 
opinion will ere long take ample satisfaction upon the Co- 
manches for every one of their nation that falls by their 
bands. 



BUFFALO CHASE* ^3 



CHAPTER IV. 

Buffalo chase— Sweet Water creek— Comanche camps— Prevailing winds- 
Indians seen — Method of encamping—Wonderful powers of the Delawares— 
Beaver dams— Kioway creek, 

June 7.-— Taking two of the Indians this morning, I went 
out for the purpose of making an examination of the surround- 
ing country and ascertaining whether good water could be 
found upon our route for our next encampment. We had 
gone about three miles in a westerly direction, when we 
struck a fresh buffalo track leading north ; thinking we might 
overtake him, we followed up the trace until we came near 
the summit of an eminence upon the prairie, when I sent one 
of the Indians (John Bull) to the top of the hill, which was 
about one-fourth of a mile distant, to look for the animal. 
He had no sooner arrived at the point indicated than we saw 
him make a signal for us to join him, by riding round rapidly 
several times in a circle and immediately putting off at full 
speed over the hills. We set out at the same instant upon a 
smart gallop, and on reaching the crest of the hill discovered 
the terrified animal fleeing at a most furious pace, with John 
Bull in hot pursuit about five hundred yards behind him. As 
we followed on down the prairie we had a fine view of the 
chase. The Delaware was mounted upon one of our most 
fractious and spirited horses, that had never seen a buffalo 
before, and on coming near the animal he seemed perfectly 
frantic with fear, making several desperate surges to the right 
and left, any one of which must have inevitably unseated his 
rider had he not been a most expert and skilful horseman. 
During the time the horse was plunging and making such 
efforts to escape, John, while he controlled him with masterly 
adroitness, seized an opportunity and gave the buffalo the 
contents of his rifle, breaking one of his fore-legs, and some- 
what retarding his speed : he still kept on, however, making 
good running, and it required all the strength of our horses 
to bring us alongside of him. Before we came up our most 
excellent hunter, John Bull, had recharged his rifle and 
placed another directly back of the shoulder ; but so tenacious 



C2 GRAMA GRASS. 

of his life is this animal, that it was not until the other Dela- 
ware and myself arrived and gave him four additional shots, 
that we brought him to the ground. Packing the best pieces 
of the meat upon our horses, we went on, and in a few miles 
found a spring-brook, in which there was an abundance of 
good water, where I determined to make our next encamp- 
ment. On our return we saw a pack of wolves, with a mul- 
titude of ravens, making merry over the carcass of the buf- 
falo we had killed in the morning. 

Thinking that the Comanches, whose trail we had seen 
yesterday, might possibly be encamped within a few miles of 
us, I this morning directed Captain McClellan to take the 
interpreter and follow the trace. After going about fifteen 
miles he found one of their camps that had been abandoned 
two days previous ; and as there was no prospect of over- 
taking^ them he returned, after ascertaining that they were 
travelling a southerly course towards the Brazos river. 

In many places above the Witchita mountains we have 
found drift of quartz and scoria, but the boulders of green- 
stone, granite, and porphyry, were only seen below the upper 
end of the range ; and the nearer we approached the moun- 
tains from below, the larger and more angular became the 
fragments, until, on reaching near the base, large angular 
pieces nearly covered the surface of the ground, thereby lead- 
ing us to the conclusion that here is the source of the boulders 
we have seen below the mountains ; whereas the drift found 
here must come from above, as we have yet discovered no 
igneous rocks in place since we left the mountains. The 
formation here is a dark limestone overlaid with loose scoria. 
The earth upon the stream is highly arenaceous, and the soil 
poor. The grass, however, as we have found it everywhere 
upon Red river and its tributaries, is of a very superior qual- 
ity, consisting of several varieties of grama and mezquite. 

The range of the grama grass, so far as my observations 
have extended, is bounded on the north by near the parallel 
of 36° north latitude, and on the east by about the meridian 
of 98° west longitude. It extends south and west, as far as 
I have travelled ; it appears, however, to flourish better in 
about the latitude of 33° than in any other. As there is gen- 
erally a drought on these prairies from about the 1st of May 
to the^ middle of August, it would appear that the particular 
varieties of grasses that grow here do not require much 
moisture to sustain them. 

June 8.— Our route to-day has been over a rolling prairie, 



SWEET-WATER CREEK. 31 

in many places covered with the dwarf oak bushes before 
mentioned. We are encamped upon a creek of clear and 
wholesome water, which Dr. Shumard has named " Loess 
creek," from the circumstance that the soil upon the stream 
contains a deposit of land and fresh-water shells, among 
which are found those of Pupa muscorum, Succiena elongata, 
and Helix plebcium, forming a pulverent grayish loam similar 
to the loess found upon the Rhine. 

No fossils were seen in this silt, but our time would not ad- 
mitof making a very thorough examination of the locality. 
Specimens of the shells were, however, procured, to accom- 
pany our collection, and were found to be similar to those 
described by Lyell as occurring in Europe. 

The creek is twenty feet wide, and eight inches deep ; runs 
rapidly between low banks, with only a few cotton- wood and 
elm trees upon them. There are also some few small knots 
or clumps of trees upon the elevated prairie lands in the vi- 
cinity. The observations for latitude at this point give the 
result, 35° 24' 50". 

June 9. — At half-past 2 o'clock this morning we were en 
route again over a very elevated prairie for six miles, when 
we arrived in the valley of a fine stream of pure water, 
twelve feet wide, and one foot deep, with a rapid current. 
This stream is fringed by large cotton- wood trees along the 
banks, and the grass in the valley is most excellent, consisting 
of the mezquite and wild rye, which our animals are very 
fond of. From the fact of the water being so good in this 
stream, we called it Sweet-water creek. The valley is bor- 
dered upon each side by bluffs from ten to forty feet high ; the 
soil a reddish loam, and quite productive, being somewhat 
similar in appearance to that in the bottoms of Red river, be- 
low the confluence of the Witchita, where the most abundant 
crops are produced. 

As we ascend the river, we have conclusive evidence of the 
falsity of the representations of our visitors, the Witchita s. 
It will be remembered they told us that the entire country 
was a perfectly desolate waste, where neither man nor beast 
could get subsistence, and that there was no danger from In- 
dians, as none ever resorted to this section of Red river. 
Their statements have proved false in every particular, as we 
have thus far found the country well watered, the soil in many 
places good, everywhere yielding an abundance of the most 
nutritious grasses, with a great sufficiency of wood for all the 
purposes of the traveller. 



32 INDIANS SEEN. 

There are several old camps near us, which appear to have 
been occupied some two or three weeks since by the Coman- 
ches ; the grass where their animals have grazed is not yet 
grown up. 

Red river, which is about six miles distant from our present 
position, is eighty yards wide, with but a very small portion 
covered with water, running over the quicksand bed. The 
banks upon each side are from four to ten feet high, and not 
subject to inundation. The valley is here about half a mile 
wide, shut in by sandy bluffs thirty feet high, which form the 
border to a range of sand-hills extending back about five miles 
upon each side of the river. The soil in the valley is sandy 
and sterile, producing little but scattering weeds and stunted 
brush. 

June 10. — Our course to-day has been almost due west, up 
the north bank of Sweet-water creek. The country upon 
each side of the valley is high and gently undulating, and the 
geological formation has changed from deep-red sandstone to 
carboniferous limestone. 

The weather for the last four days has been very cold, as 
will be seen from the meteorological tables appended ; indeed, 
I think I have never in this latitude known the thermometer to 
range as low at this season. Upon the plains where I have 
heretofore travelled during the summer months, a strong breeze 
has generally sprung up about 8 o'clock in the morning and 
lasted until after night, reaching its maximum intensity about 3 
o'clock in the afternoon. This breeze comes from the south, 
and generally rises and subsides with as much regularity as 
the sea-breeze upon the Atlantic coast, which fact has given 
rise to the opinion that it comes from the Gulf of Mexico. 
These cool and bracing winds temper the atmosphere, heated 
to intensity by the almost vertical rays of the sun, rendering 
it comfortable and even pleasant in midsummer. Observa- 
tions were made this evening for the determination of latitude, 
and the result showed, 35° 26' 13". 

June 11. — We crossed Sweet-water creek at 3 o'clock this 
morning, and, keeping back upon the high prairie bordering 
the valley, travelled eight miles in nearly a w T est course, when 
we crossed two fresh Indian trails, which, from the circum- 
stance of there being no trace of lodge-poles, our guide pro- 
nounced to have been made by war parties ; and he states 
that he has during the day seen four Indians upon a hill in the 
distance taking a look at us, but that they turned immediately 
on seeing him and galloped off. The fact of their not being 



MODE OF ENCAMPING. 33 

disposed to communicate with us looks suspicious, and they 
may have hostile intentions towards us ; but with our custo- 
mary precautions, I think we shall be ready to receive them, 
either as friends or enemies. 

Our usual method of encamping is, where we can find the 
curve of a creek, (which has generally been the case,) to 
place ourselves in the concavity, with the wagons and tents 
extending around in a semi-circle, uniting at each extremity 
of the curve of the creek, so as to enclose a sufficient space 
for the command ; thus we are protected on one side by the 
creek, and upon the other by the line of wagons and tents. 
Immediately after reaching our camping-ground, all the ani- 
mals are turned out to graze, under charge of the teamsters, 
who are armed, and remain constantly with them, keeping 
them as near the command as the supply of grass will per- 
mit. We generally commence the day's march about 3 
o'clock in the morning, and are ready to encamp by 11 
o'clock ; this gives ample time for the animals to graze before 
night, when they are driven into camp. The horses and mules 
are picketed within the enclosure, while the oxen are tied up 
to the wagons ; sentinels are then posted upon each side of 
the encampment, and kept constantly walking in such direc- 
tions that they may have the animals continually in view. 

Many have supposed that cattle in a journey upon the plains 
would perform better and keep in better condition by allow- 
ing them to graze in the morning before starting upon the 
day's march, which would involve the necessity of travelling 
during the heat of the day. These persons are of opinion 
that animals will only feed at particular hours of the day, 
and that the remainder of the day must be allotted them for 
rest and sleep, and that unless these rules are adhered to 
they will not thrive. This opinion, however, is, I think, er- 
roneous, and I also think that cattle will adapt themselves to 
any circumstances, so far as regards their working hours and 
their hours of rest. If they have been accustomed to labor at 
particular hours of the day, and the order of things is at once 
reversed, the working hours being changed into hours of rest, 
they may not do as well for a few days, but they soon become 
accustomed to the change, and eat and rest as well as before. 

By starting at an early hour in the morning during the sum- 
mer months, the day's march is over before it becomes very 
warm ; whereas, (as I have observed,) if the animals are al- 
lowed time to graze before starting, the march must continue 
during the middle of the day, when the animals (particularly 
3 



34 RESORT OP INDIANS. 

oxen) will suffer much from the heat of the sun, and, so faf 
as my experience goes, will not keep in as good condition as 
when the other plan is pursued. I have adopted this course 
from the commencement of our journey, and our oxen have 
continued to improve upon it. Another and very important 
advantage to be derived from this course is found in the fact 
that the animals, being tied up during the night, are not liable 
to be lost or stolen. 

The country over which we are now passing, except di* 
rectly in the valleys of the streams, is very elevated and 
undulating, interspersed with round conical hills, thrown up 
by the winds, with the appices very acute ; the soil, a light 
gray sand, producing little other vegetation than weeds and 
dwarf oaks. 

The creek up which we have been travelling runs almost 
parallel to Red river, -and affords us fine camping places at 
any point. 

From the very many old Indian camps that we have seen, 
and the numerous stumps of trees which, at different periods, 
have been cut by the Indians along the whole course of 
the creek, we infer that this is, and has been for many years, 
a place of frequent resort for the Comanches, and I have no 
doubt they could always be found here at the time the buffa- 
loes are passing back and forth in their migrations during the 
spring and winter. 

The parties of Indians whose trails we crossed in our march 
to-day were going south, and not having their families with 
them, our interpreter infers that they are bound for Mexico 
upon a foray. Had we met them, and learned that such was 
their intention, we might perhaps have dissuaded them from 
proceeding further. They may have seen our trail : if so, 
and they are friendly, they will visit us. Should they not 
come in, however, I shall send out an Indian after them to 
ascertain where they encamped and the time they left. In 
In consequence of their known hostility, our Delawares are 
getting somewhat cautious about encountering them. The 
interpreter says he would not be afraid to meet five or six, 
but thinks he would avoid a greater number. I directed him, 
in the event of his meeting a party, to invite them to come to 
camp, as I had a talk for them. He replied, " Suppose he 
want to kill me — I not tell him." 

This man has often been among the prairie Indians, un- 
derstands their language and character well, and the moment 
he sees a trail made by them, or an old deserted camp, he at 



SAGACITY OF INDIANS. 35 

'oftce determines of what nation they were : the number of 
horses and mules in their possession ; whether they were ac- 
companied by their families, and whether they were upon a 
war expedition or otherwise ; as also the time (within a few 
hours) of their passing, with many other facts of importance. 

These faculties appear to be intuitive, and confined exclu- 
sively to the Indian : I have never seen a white man that 
could judge of these matters with such certainty as they. 
For example, upon passing the trail of the Indians to-day, 
one of our Delawares looked for a moment at the foot-prints, 
picked up a blade of grass that had been crushed, and said 
the trail was made two days since, when to us it had every 
appearance of being quite fresh; subsequent observations 
satified us that he was correct* 

Upon another occasion, in riding along over the prairie, I 
saw in the sand what appeared to me to be a bear-track, with 
the impression of all of the toes, foot, and heel ; on pointing 
it out to one of the Indians, he instantly called my attention 
to some blades of grass hanging about ten inches over the 
maiks, and explained to me that while the wind is blowing, 
these blades are pressed towards the earth, and the oscilla- 
tion thereby produced had scooped out the light sand into the 
form I have mentioned. This, when explained, was perfectly 
simple and intelligible ; but I am very much inclined to be- 
lieve the solution of it would have puzzled the philosophy of 
a white man for a long time. 

A few such men as the Delawares attached to each com- 
pany of troops upon the Indian frontier would, by their know- 
ledge of Indian character and habits, and their wonderful 
powers of judging of country, following tracks, &c, (which 
soldiers cannot be taught,) enable us to operate to much bet- 
ter advantage against the prairie tribes. In several instances 
when we have had our animals stray away from camp, I 
have sent six or eight teamsters for them, who, after search- 
ing a long time, would often return unsuccessful. I would 
then send out one Indian, who would make a circuit around 
the camp until he struck the tracks of the lost animals, and 
following them up, would invariably return with them in a 
short time. In this way their services are almost indispen- 
sable upon an expedition like ours. 

June 12. — Our course to-day was very nearly due west, up 
the left bank of Sweet-water creek, until, within about three 
miles of our present position, we turned with the course of 
the stream more northwardly. 



6b BEAVERS. 

The country we passed over was similar to that of yester- 
day, but not so sandy or so heavy upon our teams. We 
came in sight of a line of high bluffs this morning, which 
were apparently about ten miles to the northwest of us. They 
are very elevated, and present much the appearance of the 
borders of the great Staked Plain, or the "Llano estacado" 
of the Mexicans. 

On reaching camp we found that a large party of Indians, 
with very many animals, had been encamped here about two 
weeks since. Numerous trails and horse tracks were seen in 
every direction, and their animals have cropped the grass for 
a long distance around. 

Their lodges were pitched near our camp, and our guide 
pronounced them to have been Kioways. On inquiring how 
he could distinguish a Kioway from a Comanche camp, he 
said the only difference was that the former make the holes 
for their fires about two feet in diameter, while the latter only 
make them about fifteen inches. 

A community of beavers have also selected a spot upon 
the creek near our camp, for their interesting labors and habi- 
tations. I know of no animal concerning which the accounts 
of travellers have been more extraordinary, more marvellous 
or contradictory, than those given of the beaver. By some 
he is elevated in point of intellect almost to a level with man. 
He has been said, for instance, to construct houses, with sev- 
eral floors and rooms ; to plaster the rooms with mud in such 
a manner as to make smooth walls, and to drive stakes of six 
or eight inches in diameter into the ground, and to perform 
many other astounding feats, which I am inclined to believe 
are not supported by credible testimony. Laying aside these 
questionable statements, there is quite sufficient in the natural 
history of the beaver to excite our wonder and admiration. 
For instance, at this place, upon an examination of the dam 
they have constructed, I was both astonished and delighted 
at the wonderful sagacity, skill, and perseverance which they 
have displayed. In the selection of a suitable site, and in 
the erection of the structure, they appear to have been guided 
by something more than mere animal instinct, and have ex- 
hibited as correct a knowledge of hydrostatics, and the action 
of forces resulting from currents of water, as the most scien- 
tific millwright would have done. Having chosen a spot 
where the banks on each side of the creek were narrow and 
sufficiently high to raise a head of about five feet, they se- 
lected two cotton-wood trees about fifteen inches in diameter, 



RED RIVER. 37 

situated above this point, and having an inclination towards 
the stream : these they cut down with their teeth, (as the 
marks upon the stumps plainly showed,) and, floating them 
down to the position chosen for the dam, they were placed 
across the stream with an inclination downward, uniting in 
the centre. This formed the foundation upon which the su- 
perstructure of brush and earth was placed, in precisely the 
same manner as a brush dam is made by our millwrights, 
with the bushes and earth alternating and packed closely, the 
butts in all cases turned down the stream. After this is 
raised to a sufficient height, the top is covered with earth, 
except in the centre, where there is a sluice or waste-wier, 
which lets off the superfluous water when it rises so high as 
to endanger the structure. In examining the results of the 
labors of these ingenious quadrupeds, it occurred to me that 
the plan of erecting our brush dams must have been originally 
suggested from witnessing those of the beavers, as they are 
very similar. I watched for some time upon the banks of the 
pond, but could see none of the animals. I presume they 
think we make too much noise in our camp to suit them, and 
deem it most prudent to remain concealed in their sub-marine 
houses. 

I observed one place above the pond where they had com- 
menced another dam, and had progressed so far as to cut 
down two trees on opposite sides of the creek; but as they 
did not fall in the right direction to suit their purposes, the 
work was abandoned. As the course of Sweet-water creek 
turns too much to the north above here, we shall leave it ; 
and it is with much regret that we are obliged to do so, as it 
has afforded us the best of spring water, with good grass and 
wood, for five days. 

June 13. — Leaving the command this morning encamped 
upon Sweet-water creek, I made a trip to Red river, which 
is about six miles in a southwest direction ; it was one hun- 
dred yards wide where we struck it, with but a very small 
portion covered with water, and, very much to our astonish- 
ment, for the first time, upon tasting it, we found it free from 
salts. Following up the stream about a mile, we discovered 
that this good water all issued from a small stream that put 
in upon the north bank, and above this the bed of the main 
river was dry. As there is an incrustation of salt upon the 
bed of the river below the creek, where the water has sub- 
sided after a high stage, I have no doubt but that the water 
above here will be found to be impregnated with salts, and 



38 RIVER TERRACES. 

that all the fresh water now found in the river comes from 
the creek mentioned. 

Along the whole course of Red river, from Cache creek to 
this point, we find three separate banks or terraces bordering 
the river ; the first of which rises from two to six feet above 
the bed of the stream. The second is from ten to twenty feet 
high ; and the third, which forms the high bluff bordering the 
valley of the river, is from fifty to one hundred feet. The first 
bank is in places subject to inundation, and generally is from 
fifty to two hundred yards wide. The second is never sub-- 
merged, and is from two to fifteen hundred yards wide. The 
third bank bounds the high prairie. We found the range of 
sand-hills still continuing along the river ; and we have con- 
stantly during the day been in sight of the line of bluffs which 
I supposed to be the border of the "Llano estacado. " We 
also passed the trail of a very large party of Indians, who 
were ascending the river before the last rain, (some two weeks 
since.) 

After leaving the river on our return to camp, we found two 
fine brooks of cold spring water, with good wood and grass 
upon them, and as they are in our course, I propose to make 
our next camp upon one of them. 

June 14. — Making an early start this morning, we travelled 
eleven miles in a westerly course, when we reached a very 
beautiful stream of good spring water, flowing with a uniformly 
rapid current through a valley about a mile wide, covered 
with excellent grass. There is a heavy growth of young 
cotton-wood trees along the borders of the creek, and among 
them are found immense quantities of that peculiar variety of 
grape I have before mentioned as growing in the sand-hills 
along the valley of Red river. They grow here upon low 
bushes, about four feet high, similar to those cultivated varie- 
ties that are trimmed and cut down in the spring. When 
growing near the trees they never rest upon them, like our 
eastern varieties of the wild grape, but stand separate and 
erect, like a currant bush. 

This creek appears to be a place of winter resort for large 
numbers of the prairie Indians. We found many old camps 
along the stream, and the ground for several miles was thickly 
strewn with cotton wood sticks, the bark of which had been 
eaten off by their animals. The prairie tribes are in the 
habit of feeding their favorite horses with the cotton- wood 
bark in the winter ; and it is probably the abundance of this 
wood that has attracted them here. We found the stumps of 



ANTI-SCORBUTICS. 39 

the trees that they had cut from year to year in various stages 
of decay — some entirely rotten, and others that had been cut 
during the past winter. The fine mezquite and grama grass 
furnishes pasturage for their animals during a great part of the 
winter ; and the cotton-wood is a never failing resort when 
the grass is gone. 

As we are now nearly opposite the country on the Canadian 
river occupied by the Kioway Indians, it is quite probable 
that some of that nation winter at this place ; and I have no 
doubt but that they could be found here at any time during 
that season. I have called the creek Kioway creek. 

Game is abundant in this vicinity ; and our hunters keep 
the entire command constantly supplied with fresh meat, so 
that we have not yet had occasion to kill one of our beef- 
cattle. Seven deer and one antelope were killed to-day. For 
months previous to leaving Fort Belknap, with the exception 
of a few wild onions, my men had eaten no vegetables. Some 
of them had been attacked with scurvy, and all were more or less 
predisposed to it. I have, therefore, been exceedingly anxious 
to take all possible precautions for warding off this most dreaded 
disease. As I had no anti-scorbutic, with the exception of a 
very few dried apples and a little citric acid, I was obliged 
to make use of everything the country afforded as a substitute 
for vegetables. I caused the men to eat greens whenever 
they could be obtained, with the green grapes occasionally ; 
and to-day we were so fortunate as to discover a fine bed 
of wild onions (a most excellent anti-scorbutic) upon some 
sand-hills over which we passed. A quantity were collected 
by the men and made use of freely. 



KIOWAY ENCAMPMENT. 



CHAPTER V. 

Reach the source of the north branch of Red river — Bottle buried — Arrived upon 
the Canadian — Departure for Middle fork — Indian battle ground — Prairie-dog 
towns — Source of the Middle fork — South fork — Prairie-dogs. 

June 15. — On account of the morning being dark and the 
clouds threatening rain, we did not leave camp until daylight 
this morning. We, however, made a good day's march over 
a very heavy sandy country, and after crossing the main river, 
encamped upon the south bank. 

During the day we crossed several small branches, in which 
we found good water ; and in several places, where there was 
timber upon them, we saw old Indian camps. At one place 
I noticed a large grove of cotton-wood which had been en- 
tirely enclosed with a brush fence by the Indians ; this was 
probably made for the purpose of keeping their animals from 
straying away. 

On reaching the river we found that it had very much di- 
minished in magnitude since we had last seen it. It was now 
only fifteen yards wide, the water clear, and to the taste en- 
tirely free from salts. 

The herbage for the last twenty miles of our march has 
suffered much from drought, and the grass in many places 
upon the elevated lands is entirely burnt up. We, however, 
continue to find excellent grass in the valleys near the borders 
of the small streams, and upon the river itself. The only 
varieties of timber that we find upon this part of Red river 
are cotton-wood and hackberry, the former greatly predomi- 
nating and of large dimensions. Indeed, I have never seen 
so much timber at any other place upon the plains, in this 
longitude, as we find here. 

We have had the line of high bluffs in sight before us all 
day, and we are now within a few miles of them. The geo- 
logical formation through the country over which we are 
passing is a light-colored calcareous sandstone, covered with 
a drift of quartz and scoria. 

Near our present position, upon the opposite side of the 



BOTTLE BURIED. 41 

river, there has been a very large band of Kioways encamped, 
abouWwo weeks since, and their animals have cropped much 
of the grass for several miles around us. From the multitude 
of tracks that we see in every direction, there must have been 
an immense number of animals. On leaving here their course 
was south. 

June 16. — Striking our tents at three o'clock this morning, 
we followed up the south bank of the river, which runs in a 
westerly course for eight miles, when it suddenly turns to the 
southwest, and here the elevated bluffs which we have had 
in view for several days past approach the river upon each 
side, until there is but a narrow gorge or canon for the pas- 
sage of the stream. These bluffs are composed of calcareous 
sandstone and clay, rising precipitously from the banks of the 
stream to the height of three hundred feet, when they suddenly 
terminate in the almost perfectly level plain of the "Llano 
estacado." Here the river branches out into numerous rami- 
fications, all running into the deep gorges of the plain. Taking 
the largest, we continued up it, riding directly in the bed of 
the stream for about five miles, when we reached the source 
of this branch of the river, and by ascending upon the table- 
lands above, we could see the heads of the other branches 
which we had passed a few miles below. 

The latitude at this place, as determined by several obser- 
vations of Polaris, is 35° 35' 3", and the longitude 101° bb'. 
These results make our position only about twenty-five miles 
from the Canadian river ; and as I am anxious to determine 
how our observations conform to those we made in ascending 
that stream in 1849, I propose taking ten men, and leaving 
the main body of the command to guard our oxen and stores, 
to make a trip in a due north course to the Canadian. This 
will serve to show the connexion between that stream and a 
certain known point upon the head of the north branch of Red 
river; and is, in my opinion, a geographical item which it is 
important to establish and confirm by actual observation, par- 
ticularly as the Canadian has by several travellers been mis- 
taken for Red river. 

At our encampment of this evening is the last running 
water we have found in ascending this branch of Red river. 
We are near the junction of the last branch of any magnitude 
that enters the river from the north, and about three miles 
from the point where it debouches from the plains, in a grove 
of large cotton-wood trees upon the south bank of the river. 
Under the roots of one of the largest of these trees, which 



42 CANADIAN RIVER. 

stands near the river, and below all others in the grove, I have 
buried a bottle, containing the following memorandum : ft "On 
the 16th day of June, 1852, an exploring expedition, Com- 
posed of Captain R. B. Marey, Captain G. B. McClellan, 
Lieutenant J. Updegraff, and Doctor G. C. Shumard, with 
fifty-five men of company D, fifth infantry, encamped here, 
having this day traced the north branch of Red river to its 
sources. Accompanying the expedition were Captain J. H. 
Strain, of Forth Washita, and Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New 
York city." This tree is blazed on the north and east sides, 
and marked upon the north side with a. pencil as follows : 
" Exploring Expedition, June 16, 1852." 

An incident happened this evening, which, for a short time, 
gave us much uneasiness and alarm. It was caused by one 
of the gentlemen of the party walking out from camp alone, 
without our knowledge, and remaining away about two hours 
before we discovered his absence. It was after dark when I 
first learned that he was not in camp, and as there were many 
fresh signs of Indians around, I was fearful he had fallen into 
their hands. I immediately started out the Delawares in 
search of him, and ordered our six-pounder to be discharged, 
with muskets at short intervals, and at the same time made 
preparations for starting out myself; but no sooner had the 
cannon been fired than he made his appearance, in a state of 
much excitement, and had evidently been greatly confused 
and alarmed, as is always the case with persons who are lost. 
He states that he had gone out for the purpose of taking a 
short walk, and in returning over a hill had lost sight of the 
camp; that, in endeavoring to make his way back, he had 
become so much confused that after night he took ours for a 
Comanche camp, and dared not approach until he heard the 

sis;nal-£un. 

June 17 to 19. — On the 17th, accompanied by three gen- 
tlemen of the party, with five soldiers and three Indians, I 
started in a northerly direction, to go in search of the Cana- 
dian river. Our route led us immediately out upon the ele- 
vated plateau of the Staked Plain, where the eye rests upon 
no object of relief within the scope of vision. 

Put suing our way over this monotonous and apparently 
boundless plain for fifteen miles, our eyes were suddenly 
gladdened by the appearance of a valley and bluffs before 
us, which I at once recognised to be upon the Canadian ; and 
after travelling ten miles further we found ourselves upon that 
stream, making the entire distance from the head of Red 



SANTA FE ROAD. 



43 



river to the Canadian twenty-five miles. This was a matter 
of much gratification and interest to us, as it developed and 
confirmed the accuracy of our calculations regarding the geo- 
graphical position of the sources of Red river. The point 
where we struck the Canadian is at the mouth of a small 
stream, called Sandy creek upon the map of the road from 
Fort Smith to Santa Fe. This being near longitude 101° 45', 
and latitude 35° 58', makes the calculations for the two posi- 
tions approximate very closely. The formation upon the 
Canadian at this point is very similar to that upon the Red 
river, being composed of light-colored friable arenaceous lime- 
stone, resting upon a stratum of red sand, with a substratum 
of blue clay, the whole overlaid by a drift of quartz, felspar, 
and agate. The soil upon the creek is a dark-brown loam, 
covered with a heavy coating of wild rye and mezquite, and 
if the drought of summer did not prevent, would produce 
abundant crops. The only varieties of timber found here are 
the wild china, hackberry, willow, and cotton-wood, the lat- 
ter, in some instances, growing to an enormous size. One 
tree, standing upon the creek near the Canadian, which we 
measured, was nineteen and a half feet in circumference 
at five feet above the ground. The Santa Fe road passes 
directly along the river-bank at this place, and upon the north 
side of the river stand four cotton-wood trees; these are 
blazed, and the distance in a due south course to the head of 
Red river, with the date of our arrival there, marked upon 
one of them. Having finished the examination of the north 
branch of Red river, we propose turning to the south from 
this point, and, crossing the elevated prairie of the Staked 
Plain, shall endeavor to reach the middle or Salt Fork, which 
we passed upon our left near the upper extremity of the Wit- 
chita range of mountains. The only apprehension that we 
entertain is, that we may suffer for water, but shall keep our 
water-casks filled whenever it is practicable. 

The grass upon the Staked Plain is generally a very short 
variety of mezquite, called buffalo grass, from one to two 
inches in length, and gives the plains the appearance of an 
interminable meadow that has been recently mown very close 
to the earth. 

I have never travelled over a route on the plains west of 
the Cross Timbers where the water, grass, and wood were 
as good and abundant as upon the one over which our explo- 
rations have led us. This has been to us a most agreeable 
surprise, as our friends, the Witchitas, had given us to under' 



44 m'clellan's creek. 

stand that we should find no wood, and nothing but salt water, 
in this section of country. I can account for their misrepre- 
sentations only on the ground that they did not wish us to go 
into the country, and took this course to deter us from proceed- 
ing further. 

June 20. — We made an early march this morning, passing 
over the high hills bordering the river, and the broad swells 
of prairie adjoining, for twelve miles, when we reached the 
valley of a very beautiful stream, twenty feet wide, and six 
inches deep, running rapidly ovejr a gravelly bed, through a 
valley about a mile wide, of sandy soil, with large cotton- 
wood trees along the banks. I have called this "McClellan's 
creek," in compliment to my friend Captain McCleJlan, who 
I believe to be the first white man that ever set eyes upon it. 

We were happy, on arriving here, to find the water per- 
fectly pure and palatable ; and we regard ourselves as most 
singularly fortunate in having favorable weather. The rains 
of the last two days have made the atmosphere delightfully 
cool, and afford us water in many places where we had no 
reason to expect it at this season of the year. 

During the middle of the day, when the earth and the ad- 
jacent strata of the air had become heated by the almost ver- 
tical rays of the sun, we observed, as usual, upon the " Llano 
estacado," an incessant tremulous motion in the lower strata 
of the atmosphere, accompanied by a most singular and illu- 
sive mirage. This phenomenon, which so bitterly deluded 
the French army in Egypt, and has been observed in many 
other places, is here seen in perfection. 

The very extraordinary refraction of the atmosphere upon 
these elevated plateaus, causes objects in the distance to be 
distorted into the most wild and fantastic forms, and often exag- 
gerated to many times their true size. A raven, for instance, 
would present the appearance of a man walking erect ; and 
an antelope often be mistaken for a horse or buffalo. In pass- 
ing along over this thirsty and extended plain in a warm day, 
the eye of a stranger is suddenly gladdened by the appear- 
ance of a beautiful lake, with green and shady groves directly 
upon the opposite bank. His heart beats with joy at the 
prospect of speedily luxuriating in the cool and delicious ele- 
ment before him, and he urges his horse forward, thinking it 
very strange that he does not reach the oasis. At one time 
he imagines that he has made a sensible diminution in the 
distance, and goes on with renewed vigor and cheerfulness ; 
then again he fancies that the object recedes before him, and 



MIRAGE. 



45 



he becomes discouraged and disheartened. And thus he 
rides for miles and miles, and still finds himself no nearer 
the goal than when he first saw it — when, perhaps, some sud- 
den change in the atmosphere would dissipate the illusion, 
and discloses to him the fact that he had been following a 
mirage. 

June 21. — On leaving our camp of last night, we crossed 
the creek and continued a south course for about five miles, 
when we rose upon the crest of a very elevated ridge which 
divides the waters of the north from those of the middle or Salt 
Fork, the valleys of both of which can be seen from this position. 
Descending upon the south side of the ridge, we encamped 
upon an affluent of the south fork, which runs rapidly through 
a narrow valley in an easterly course. The water is abun- 
dant, and free from salts. 

The geological formation upon this side of the dividing- 
ridge is different from that upon the north side, being here a 
soft, coarse, friable, conglomerated sandstone, enclosing a 
small drift of quartz, felspar, mica, and serpentine. The 
country in this vicinity is much broken and cut up with deep 
gorges and abrupt ridges, which are mostly impassable for 
wagons, and we have, been obliged in consequence to travel 
a very circuitous route to-day, keeping the dividing ridges as 
much as possible, where we invariably find good ground for 
a road. 

June 22. — In our course this morning, we struck one of the 
principal branches of the Salt Fork near its source, and fol- 
lowed it down upon the left bank to its confluence with the 
main stream. Below the junction the stream was fifty yards 
wide, but only about one-fourth of its bed covered with 
water. This branch of Red river, like the other, heads in 
the border of the "Llano estacado," and directly at the source 
is an elevated hill with abrupt vertical sides, terminating in a 
level summit ; below this, upon the south bank, are two 
round mounds that can be seen for many miles. 

We were much gratified in finding the water at the head 
of this branch, as in the north fork, sweet and wholesome. 
This settles the question that these branches of the river do 
not take their rise in salt plains, as has heretofore been very 
generally supposed. On the contrary, at their sources, w T hich 
are in the eastern borders of the "Llano estacado," the water 
is as pure and wholesome as can be desired. And this char- 
acter continues upon all the confluents until they enter the 
gypsum formation, when they become impregnated with salts, 



46 DISTRIBUTION OF RAIN. 

that impart a new character to the water, which continues to 
its junction with the Mississippi. 

A solitary cotton-wood, with an occasional clump of wil- 
lows, constitute the sylva of this portion of the river. The 
soil in the valley is an arenaceous fed alluvium, and would 
be productive with the aid of artificial irrigation. 

The bluffs bordering the valley are, at this place, about 
one hundred feet high, and composed of a deep red clay, 
overlaid with a stratum of drift ; and this surmounted with a 
capping of calcareous sandstone from five to fifteen feet thick. 

Upon the rocky bluffs bordering the river we found silici- 
fied wood in great quantities, strewed about over a distance 
of two miles." The petrifaction was most perfect, exhibiting 
all the fibres, knots, and bark, as plainly as in the native 
state, and was quite similar to the cotton-wocd. 

This evening we have another rain coming from the north- 
west, which will increase our chances for finding water in act- 
Vance. 

As it will be seen by a reference to the meteorological ta- 
bles, our barometer has, in almost every instance, been a 
certain index to the weather from the commencement of the 
march. Sometimes, indeed, it has exhibited a most extraor- 
dinary depression of the mercury for two or three days pre- 
vious to a storm; but in no instance has it failed to rain be- 
fore the instrument will resume its usual range. 

During the last three summers which I have spent upon 
the plains, as has been before observed, I have seen no rain 
of consequence from the about the middle of May to the 
middle of August. And after passing west beyond the 
ninety-ninth degree of longitude, there has been but very 
little dew during the same period. The water in most of the 
streams was, at the same time, absorbed by the parched and 
porous soil over which it passed, and vegetation suffered 
much from the drought. 

On the contrary, we have this season been favored with 
frequent and copious rains, and heavy dews. The streams 
have everywhere furnished a plentiful supply of good water, 
and the whole face of the prairies has been cheered with a 
rich and verdant vegetation. Near the place where we have 
pitched our tents this evening is an old Indian encampment, 
where John Bushman, our Delaware interpreter, has discov- 
ered that a battle has been fought within the past two months. 
The evidences of this are apparent from the fact that the re- 
mains of a large fire were found, upon which the victorious 



KlOWAY INDIANS. 47 

parly had piled up and burned the lodges and effects of the 
Vanquished. Pieces of the lodge-poles, and a quantity of 
fused glass beads, v/ith small pieces of iron and other articles 
pertaining to their domestic economy, which had partially 
escaped the conflagration, were found scattered about the en- 
campment. The number of lodge-fires indicated that the 
vanquished party was small. 

The trail of a large party of Kioways, travelling to the 
north just before the last rain, has been seen to-day ; and we 
are continually meeting with evidences of their having fre- 
quently resorted to this branch of the river. Their old camp- 
ing places and their trails are seen almost every day. They 
are probably at this time north of the Candian, with the buf- 
faloes ; but are attracted to the waters of Red river in the au- 
tumn and winter, where the exuberant and rich grama grasses 
which everywhere abound in the river bottoms afford the 
finest pasturage to their numerous animals. 

We have been gradually and regularly ascending in our 
progress westward, Until now our approximate elevation 
above the sea, as indicated by the barometer, is two thousand 
seven hundred and two feet. 

Our route to-day along the river valley has been populous 
with prairie dogs, their towns occupying almost the entire val- 
ley of the river. I was anxious to obtain a good specimen, 
and killed several of the largest I could find ; but my rifle- 
ball mutilated them so milch, that we did not think them 
worth preserving. 

Our hunters brought in two deer and a turkey this eve- 
ning, and their auxiliaries, the greyhounds, have added an- 
other deer to the list. 

June 23. — This morning being dark, cloudy, and threaten- 
ing rain, we did not leave camp until a late hour, when we 
continued our march down the left bank of the river tor some 
four or five miles, directly at the base of the lofty escarpments 
of red clay and sandstone which terminate the valley upon 
the north side. 

Soon after we started it commenced raining violently, and 
has continued incessantly throughout the day. It has raised 
the water in the river about twelve inches, so that now the 
entire bed is covered. In consequence of the rain we made 
an early encampment upon the south bank of the river. 

The country upon each side of the river along where we 
have passed to-day has been much broken up into deep 
gorges and precipitous ridges, which are wholly impassable 



48 HEALTH OF THE ANIMALS. 

for wagons ; and the features of the country adjoining have 
assumed a desert character. With the exception of a narrow- 
strip of land forming the river bottom, no arable soil can be 
seen, and no timber is found except a few stunted cotton- 
woods directly upon the river banks. Several varieties of the 
wild sensitive plant, and especially the Schrankia angustata, 
are found everywhere throughout this section, and the atmo- 
sphere is redolent with the delightful perfume which is emit- 
ted from their blossoms. 

Having traced this branch of the river to its source, and 
satisfied myself, from the portion that we have passed over, 
as to its general physical and topographical features, I have 
resolved to leave it at this point, and taking a southerly 
course, shall endeavor to make our w,ay to the south branch 
of the river. I think the remainder of the time we have at 
our disposal can be more profitably occupied in exploring the 
country along the borders of that stream than in any other 
way. 

We shall set out with a supply of water and wood suffi- 
cient for three days ; and we hope, before that time expires 
to find ourselves upon the waters of the south branch. Our 
animals that were poor when we left the settlements, are at 
this time in most excellent condition; and if we continue to 
find water and grass as abundant as we have done, we shall 
take them home in much better plight than they were at the 
commencement of our journey. 

Thus far we have been most singularly fortunate in not 
losing even an animal by death or straying away ; and, in- 
deed, we have been much favored in every respect. The 
command have generally been in fine health and spirits, and 
with the exception of two cases of scurvy that originated be- 
fore our departure from Fort Belknap, we have had no sick- 
ness worth mentioning. 

June 24. — We were in motion at a very early hour this 
morning, and taking a southerly course directly at right an- 
gles to the river, we soon became involved in a labyrinth of 
barren sand hills, in which we travelled some fourteen miles 
before we emerged upon a high ridge, from which, in the dis- 
tance, we could discern through the dim and murky atmo- 
sphere a very broad valley, through which we supposed the 
south branch to flow. 

The bare and hot sand over which we had just passed was 
in strong contrast with the refreshing verdure of the valley 
before us. After travelling a few miles down the south slope 



STAKED PLAIN. 49 

of the divide, we encamped upon a small branch, where we 
found good water and grass, with a few cotton-wood trees, 
which furnished us with fuel. 

The geological formation upon the bluffs bordering this 
stream is a friable red sandstone, overlaid with a stratum of 
coarse gypsum, with a subjacent stratum of bright red clay, 
interstratified with seams of gypsum. The soil since we left 
the sand-hills has been good, probably owing to the fertilizing 
properties of the gypsum. 

June 25. — The atmosphere this morning was clear, cool, 
and bracing, with a north-northeasterly wind ; the thermome- 
ter at 3 a. m. standing at 69°. The sky at sunrise was 
cloudless, and the sun shone brilliantly upon some elevated 
white bluffs which we could see in the distance, and supposed 
to be upon the border of the valley of the south fork of Red 
river. 

At an early hour we resumed our march down the creek for 
about three miles, when we crossed another large stream with 
clear running water, and taking a circuitous course among the 
rough and broken hills bordering it, we made fifteen miles, 
encamping upon a branch where we found water standing in 
pools-. 

Our course to-day has led us through a formation of sul- 
phate and carbonate of lime, which in some places appeared 
to be decomposed and covered the earth in a powdered state 
to the depth of three inches. Several fossil shells belonging 
to the cretaceous system were found to-day ; they were much 
rounded fey attrition, and probably have been transported here 
from a distance by water. 

June 26. — We were in motion at the usual time this morn- 
ing, and turning our course up the , river over a very broken 
and elevated country, travelled ten miles, when we encamped 
upon a large branch of the south fork which enters from the 
north. It is fifty yards wide, with a sandy bed, and at this 
time contains but little water. The white escarpment of the 
Staked Plain has been in sight for the last two days in front 
and on the right of us. It seems to be very much elevated 
above the adjoining country, with almost vertical sides, cov- 
ered with a scrubby growth of dwarf cedars, and from the 
summit the country spreads out into a perfectly level plain, 
©r mesa, as far as the eye can penetrate. 

The stream upon which we are encamped, like the other 
branches of Red river, takes its rise in the borders of this 
plain, and for several miles from its source there are numer- 



50 PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS. 

ous branches issuing from deep canons, with perpendicular 
sides, which continue until they debouch into the more rolling 
country below, where the banks become low, and the bed 
broad and sandy. 

The geological features of the country upon the head of this 
branch are characterized by a different formation from that 
upon the other branches we have seen, inasmuch as we here 
find the gypsum extending to the very sources, and the water 
having the peculiar taste imparted by that mineral throughout 
its entire course. 

Oar road during the whole day has passed through a con- 
tinuous dog-town, (Spermophilus ludovicianus,) and we were 
often obliged to turn out of our course to avoid the little 
mounds around their burrows. 

In passing along through these villages the little animals 
are seen in countless numbers sitting upright at the mouths of 
their domicils, presenting much the appearance of stumps of 
small trees ; and so incessant is the clatter of their barking, 
that it requires but little effort of the imagination to fancy 
oneself surrounded by the busy hum of a city. 

The immense number of animals in some of these towns., 
or warrens, may be conjectured from the large space which 
they sometimes cover. The one at this place is about twenty- 
five miles in the direction through which we have passed it. 
Supposing its dimensions in other directions to be the same, it 
would embrace an area of six hundred and twenty-five square 
miles, or eight hundred and ninety-six thousand acres. Esti- 
mating the holes to be at the usual distances of about twenty 
yards apart, and each burrow occupied by a family of four or 
five dogs, I fancy that the aggregate population would be 
greater than any other city in the universe. 

This interesting and gregarious little specimen of the mam- 
malia of our country, which is found assembled in such vast 
communities, is indigenous to the most of our far western 
prairies, from Mexico to the northern limits of the United 
States, and has often been described by travellers who have 
been upon the plains. But as there are some facts in relation 
to their habits which I have never seen mentioned in any pub- 
lished account of them, I trust I shall be pardoned if I add a 
few remarks to what has already been said. In the selection 
of a site or position for their towns they appear to have a re- 
gard to their food, which is a species of short wiry grass, 
growing upon the elevated plains, where there is often no 
water near. I have sometimes seen their towns upon the 



ASSOCIATES OF THE PRAIRIE-DOGS. 51 

elevated table lands of New Mexico, where there was no wa- 
ter upon the surface of the ground for twenty miles, and where 
it did not seem probable that it could be obtained by excava- 
ting to the depth of a hundred feet. This has induced me to 
believe that they do not require that element without which 
most other animals perish in a short time. 

As there are generally no rains or clews during the summer 
months upon the plains where these towns are found, and as 
the animals never wander far from home, I think I am war- 
ranted in coming to the conclusion that they require no water 
beyond that which the grass affords them. That they Iryber- 
nate and pass the winter in a lethargic or torpid state is evi- 
dent, from the fact that they lay up no sustenance for the 
winter, and that the grass around their holes dries up in the* 
autumn, the earth freezes hard, and renders it utterly impos- 
sible for them to procure food in the usual manner. 

When the prairie-dog first feels the approach of the sleep- 
ing season, (generally about the last days of October,) he 
closes all the passages to his dormitory to exclude the cold 
air, and betakes himself • to his brumal slumber with the 
greatest possible care. He remains housed until the warm 
days of spring, when he removes the obstructions from his 
door, and again appears above ground as frolicsome as ever. 

I have been informed by the Indians, that a short time 
before a cold storm in the autumn, all the prairie-dogs may 
be seen industriously occupied with weeds and earth closing 
the entrances to their burrows. They are sometimes, how- 
ever, seen reopening them while the weather is still cold and 
stormy, but mild and pleasant weather is always certain to 
follow. 

It appears, therefore, that instinct teaches the little quad- 
rupeds when to expect good or bad weather, and to make 
their arrangements accordingly. A species of small owl is 
always found in the dog towns, sitting at the mouths of the 
holes when not occupied by the dogs ; whether for the pur- 
pose of procuring food, or for some other object, I do not 
know. They do not, however, as some have asserted, bur- 
row with the dogs ; and when approached, instead of enter- 
ing the holes, they invariably fly away. It has also been 
said that the rattlesnake is a constant companion of the dog ; 
but this is a mistake, for I have sometimes passed for days 
through the towns without seeing one. They are, however, 
often seen in the holes in company with the dogs, and it has 
been supposed by some that they were welcome guests with 



52 RATTLESNAKES. 

the proprietors of the establishments ; but we have satisfied 
ourselves that this is a domestic arrangement entirely at 
variance with the wishes of the dogs, as the snakes prey 
upon them, and must be considered as intruders. They are 
probably attracted to the burrows for the purpose of procur- 
ing food, as one snake which we killed was found to have 
swallowed a full-grown dog» 



KE-CHE-A-QUI-HO-NO. 53 



CHAPTER VI. 

Arrive at main South Fork — Panther killed — Bitter water — Intense thirst — 
Head spring — Bears abundant — Departure down the river. 

June 27. — Making an early start this morning, we travelled 
down the river for five miles, when we crossed and resumed 
the south course over high rolling lands, much broken up on 
each side into numerous deep defiles and rugged cliffs, run- 
ning towards the main river. 

Directly in front of us lay the high table lands of the 
" Llano estacado," towering up some eight hundred feet 
above the surrounding county, and bordered by precipitous 
escarpments capped with a stratum of white gypsum, which 
glistened in the sun like burnished silver. After travelling 
fourteen miles, we reached the valley of the principal branch 
of the river. 

It was here nine hundred yards wide, flowing over a very 
sand}'- bed, with but little water in the channel, and is fortified 
upon each side by rugged hills and deep gullies, over which 
I think it will be impossible to take our train. The soil 
throughout this section is a light ferruginous clay, with no 
limber except a few hackberry and cotton-wood trees upon 
the banks of the streams. There is but little water either in 
the river or in the creeks, and in a dry season I doubt if there 
would be any found here. 

Our route to-day has continued to lead us through dog towns, 
and it is probable that the fact of their being so abundant here 
has suggested the name which the Comanches have applied 
to this branch of Red river, of " Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no," or 
" Prairie-dog-town river." 

We were so unfortunate yesterday as to lose an excellent 
bear-dog which a gentleman in Arkansas had taken great pains 
to procure for me. I regret this very much, as we are now 
coming into a country where we shall probably find these ani- 
mals abundant, and it is difficult to hunt them without a good 
dog, trained for the purpose. 

Our hunters killed two antelopes to-day. We have seen 
but few deer, however, and no turkeys, during the last week. 



54 GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 

We occasionally see the pinnated grouse and the quail ; as 
also the meadow-lark, which I have found in all places 
wherever I have travelled. 

June 28. — On leaving our encampment of last night, we 
took a southwesterly course for the eastern extremity of the 
white-capped bluffs which have been so long in sight, and 
which border the great plain of the " Llano estacado" upon 
the river valley. 

After marching eight miles over a succession of very rugged 
hills and valleys, which rise as they recede from the river, 
we reached the base of these towering and majestic cliffs, 
which rise almost perpendicularly from the undulating swells 
of prairie at the base, to the height of eight hundred feet, and 
terminate at the summit in a plateau almost as level as the 
sea, which spreads out to the south and west like the steppes 
of Central Asia, in an apparently illimitable desert. 

I supposed, from the appearance of the country at a dis- 
tance, that I should be able to find a passage for the wagons 
along at the foot of these cliffs ; but, upon a closer examination, 
find the ground between them and the river so much cut up by- 
abrupt ridges and deep glens, that it is wholly impracticable 
to take our train any further up this branch of the river. We 
have sought for a passage by which we might take the trains 
to the top of the bluffs, where, as they run nearly parallel to 
the course of the river, we might have continued on with the 
wagons ; but, after making a careful examination, we have 
abandoned the idea, not being able to discover a place where 
we could even take our horses up the steep sides of the preci- 
pice. 

The geological formation of these bluffs is a red indurated 
clay, resting upon a red sandstone, overlaid with a soft, dark- 
gray sandstone, and the whole capped with a white calcareous 
sandstone, the strata resting horizontally, and receding in ter- 
races from the base to the summit. 

As Capt. McClellan and myself were passing to-day along 
under the bluffs, we saw in advance of us a herd of ante- 
lopes quietly feeding among some mezquite trees, when the 
idea occurred to me of attempting to call them with a deer- 
bleat, which one of the Delawares had made for me. I ac- 
cordingly advanced several hundred yards to near the crest 
of a hill, from which I had a fair view of the animals, and, 
very deliberately seating myself upon the ground, screened 
from their observation by the tall grass around me, I took out 
my bleat and commenced exercising my powers in imitating 



PANTHER KILLED. 55 

the cry of the fawn. I soon succeeded in attracting their at- 
tention, and in a short time decoyed one of the unsuspicious 
animals within range of my rifle, which I raised to my shoul- 
der, and, taking deliberate aim, was in the act of pulling trig- 
ger, when my attention was suddenly and most unexpectedly 
drawn aside by a rustling which I heard in the grass to my 
left. Casting my eyes in that direction, to my no small aston- 
ishment, I saw a tremendous panther bounding at full speed 
directly towards me, and within the short distance of twenty 
steps. As may be imagined, I immediately abandoned the 
antelope, and, directing m.y rifle at the panther, sent a ball 
through his chest, which stretched him out upon the grass 
about ten yards from where I had taken my position. Im- 
pressed with the belief that I had accomplished a feat of 
rather more than ordinary importance in the sporting line, I 
placed my hand to my mouth, ( u a la savage,") and gave 
several as loud shouts of exultation as my weak lungs would 
■permit, partly for the purpose of giving vent to my feelings of 
triumph upon the occasion, and also to call the Captain, whom 
I had left some distance back with the horses. As he did not 
bear me I went back for him, and on returning to the spot 
where I had fired upon the panther, we discovered him upon 
his feet making off. The Captain gave him another shot as 
lie was running, and then closed in with his rifle clubbed, and 
it required several vigorous blows, laid on in quick succes- 
sion, to give him his quietus. 

The panther had probably beard the bleat, and was coming 
Cowards it with the pleasant anticipation of making his break- 
fast from a tender fawn ; but fortunately for me, I disappointed 
him. It occurred to me afterwards that it would not always 
be consistent with. one r s safety to use the deer-bleat in this 
wild country, unless we were perfectly certain we should 
have our wits about us in the event of a panther or large bear 
(which is often the case) taking it into his head to give cre- 
dence to the counterfeit. This was a large specimen of the 
Fells concolor, or North American congar, measuring eight 
feet from his nose to the end of the tail. 

Juue 29. — As we were unable to proceed further up this 
branch of the river with the wagons, I concluded to leave the 
main foody of the command under charge of Lieut. Upde- 
graff', and, with Capt. McClellan and a small escort of ten 
men, to push on end endeavor to reach the head spring of this 
the principal branch of Red river. 

Taking provisions for six days, packed upon mules, we went 



56 



GYPSUM GROTTO. 



forward this morning over a constant succession of steep, 
rocky ridges, and deep ravines, in one of which we discovered 
a grotto in the gypsum rocks, which appeared to have been 
worn out by the continued action of water, leaving an arched 
passway, the sides of which were perfectly smooth and sym- 
metrical, and composed of" strata of three distinct bright colors 
of green, pink, and white, arranged in such peculiar order as 
to give it an appearance of singular beauty. On our arrival 
here the men were much exhausted by rapid marching over 
the rough ground, and were exceedingly thirsty. Fortunately 
we found near the mouth of the grotto a spring of very cold 
water bursting out of the rock ; and although it had the pe- 
liar taste of the gypsum, yet they drank large quantities with- 
out suffering from it.* Our animals and men being much 
jaded from travelling over this rough and forbidding country, 
we turned down towards the river after a short halt at the 
grotto, and on reaching it found the water still very bitter and 
unpalatable. As the day was very warm, (the thermometer 
standing, at 12 o'clock m., at 104° Fahrenheit in the shade) 
with no air stirring, the reflection of the sun's rays from the 

* As this spring issued directly from the pure gypsum rock, I procured a spe- 
cimen of the water, which has been analyzed under the direction of Professor 
W. S. Clarke, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and may, I think, be re- 
garded as containing those ingredients which communicate that peculiar disa- 
greeable taste to all the water in this country that flows over a gypsum forma- 
tion. The analysis resulted as follows : 

Water in fluid ounces ................ 4. 

"Water in fluid grammes. ......... 127.500 

Hydrosulphuric acid present. .011 

Chlorine. .014 

Lime ............ .090 

Sulphuric acid ... ... .227 

Soda and magnesia, about. .130 

These elements, united in the form of salts, would give the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime.. ... .219 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia. ...................... ..... .088 (?) 

Weight of sulphate of soda.. ...... ......................... .073(?) 

Weight of chloride of sodium.. .023 

Weight of hydrosulphuric acid .011 

Weight of the whole .414 

Per-centage of matter in solution 0.8:2 



SUFFERING FROM THIRST. 0/ 

white sand in the bed of the river made it exceedingly op- 
pressive. 

At sundown we bivouacked near a small pool of muddy 
water, a little better than that in the river, but still very unpa- 
latable. In despite of this, as we were suffering much from 
the intense thirst caused by the heat of the day, and from 
drinking the nauseating water we had met with upon the 
march, we indulged freely ; but instead of allaying thirst it 
only served to increase it. 

The country over which we have passed to-day, upon both 
sides of the river, has been cut up by numerous deep gorges 
extending from the chain of mural escarpments that terminate 
the " Llano estacado" to the river, and in many of these are 
small streams of water which issue from springs in the rocky 
sides of the gorges. We have met with no trees, except a 
species of red cedar, Juniperus Virginia?ia, and a few lonely 
cotton-woods. 

The soil is sandy upon the ridges, with blue and red clay 
in the valleys, and gypsum rocks predominate throughout the 
formation. The high bluffs to the south of us have gradually 
approached the river until, near our encampment, they are 
only about two hundred yards distant. 

June 30. — At daylight this morning we were in the 
saddle, and, taking the bed of the river, set out at a brisk 
pace, hoping to find some good water during the day. Our 
course was very circuitous, from being obliged to follow 
the windings made by the numerous detours in the river. 
The lofty escarpments which bounded the valley upon each 
side, rose precipitously from the banks of the river to the 
enormous height of from five to eight hundred feet ; and in 
many places there was not room for a man to pass between 
the foot of the acclivities and the river. It was altogether 
impossible to travel upon either side of the river, so much 
broken and cut up was the ground; and the only place where 
a passage for a horse can be found is directly along the defile 
of the river bed. We found frequent small rivulets flowing 
into the river through the deep glens upon each side ; but most 
unfortunately for us, the water in them all was acid and nau- 
seating. We made our noon halt at one of these streams, 
after travelling fifteen miles over the burning sands of the 
river bed. 

At this time we had become so much affected by the fre- 
quent and irresistible use of the water, that most of us expe- 
rienced a constant burning pain in the stomach, attended with 



58 FORKS OF THE RIVER. 

loss of appetite, and the most vehement and feverish thirst. 
We endeavored to disguise the taste of the water by making, 
coffee with it, but it retained the same disagreeable properties 
in that form that it had in the natural state. 
_ At four in the evening, we again pushed forward up the. 
river, praying most devoutly that we might reach the termi- 
nation of the gypsum formation before night, and that the 
river, which was still of very considerable magnitude, would 
branch out and soon come to a termination. 

Four miles from our halting-place we passed a large 
affluent coming in from the north, above which there was a 
very perceptible diminution in the main stream ; and in going 
a few miles further, we passed several more, causing a still 
greater contraction in its dimensions. All these affluents 
were similar in character to the parent stream, bordered with 
lofty and precipitous bluffs, with gypsum veins running 
through them similar to those upon the main river. 

Towards evening we arrived at a point where the river di- 
vided into two forks, of about equal dimensions. We fol- 
lowed the left, which appeared somewhat the largest, and 
here found the bluffs receding several hundred yards from the 
banks upon each side, leaving a very beautiful and quiet 
little nook, wholly unlike the stern grandeur of the rugged 
defile through which we had been passing. This glen was 
covered with a rich carpet of verdure, and embowered with 
the foliage of the graceful china and aspen, and its rural and 
witching loveliness gladdened our hearts and refreshed our 
eyes, long fatigued with gazing upon frowning crags and deep, 
shady ravines. 

After travelling twenty-five miles, we encamped upon the 
main river, which had now become reduced to one hundred 
feet in width, and flowed rapidly over a sandy bed. 

Although we were suffering most acutely from the effects 
of the nauseating and repulsive water in the river, yet we 
were still under the painful necessity o*f using it. Several of 
the men had been taken with violent cramps in the stomach 
and vomiting, yet they did not murmur ; on the contrary, they 
were cheerful, and indulged in frequent jokes at the expense 
of those who were sick. The principal topic of conversation 
with them seemed to be a discussion of the relative merits of 
the different kinds of fancy iced drinks which could be pro- 
cured in the cities, and the prices that could be obtained for 
some of them if they were within reach of our party. In- 
deed, it seems to me that we were not entirely exempt from 



FRESH WATER. 59 

the agitation of a similar subject ; and from the drift of the 
argument, I have no doubt that a moderate quantity of Croton 
water, cooled with Boston ice, would have met with as ready 
a sale in our little mess as in almost any market that could 
have been found. If I mistake not, one of the gentlemen of- 
fered as high as two thousand dollars for a single bucket of 
the pure element ; but this was one of those few instances in 
which money was not sufficiently potent to obtain the object 
desired. 

We laid ourselves down upon our blankets and endeavored 
to obliterate the sensation of thirst in the embraces of Mor- 
pheus ; but so far as I was concerned, my slumbers were 
continually disturbed by dreams, in which I fancied myself 
swallowing huge draughts of ice-water. 

July 1. — We saddled up at a very early hour this morning, 
and proceeded on up the river for several miles, when we 
found a large affluent putting in from the north ; and after 
travelling a few miles further, we passed many more small 
tributaries, which caused the main stream to contract into the 
narrow channel of only twenty feet ; and its bed, which from 
its confluence with the Mississippi to this place (with the ex- 
ception of a ridge of rocks which crosses it near Jonesbo- 
rough, in Texas) had been sand, suddenly changed to rock, 
with the water, which before had been turbid, flowing clear 
and rapidly over it ; and, much to our delight, it was en- 
tirely free from salts. This was certainly an unlooked-for 
luxury, as we had everywhere before this found it exceedingly 
unpalatable. As I before observed, the effect of this water 
upon us had been to produce sickness at the stomach, attended 
with loss of appetite, and a most raging and feverish thirst, 
which constantly impelled us to drink it, although it had a 
contrary effect upon us from what we desired, increasing 
rather than allaying thirst. 

After undergoing the most intense sufferings from drinking 
this nauseating fluid, we indulged freely in the pure and deli- 
cious element as we ascended along the narrow dell through 
which the stream found its way. And following up for two 
miles the tortuous course of the gorge, we reached a point 
where it became so much obstructed with huge piles of rock, 
that we were obliged to leave our animals and clamber up 
the remainder of the distance on foot. 

The gigantic escarpments of sandstone, rising to the giddy 
height of eight hundred feet upon each side, gradually closed 
in until they were only a few yards apart, and finally united 



OU HEAD OF RED RIVER. 

over head, leaving a long, narrow corridor beneath, at the 
base of which the head spring of the principal or main branch 
of Red river takes its rise. This spring bursts out from its 
cavernous reservoir, and, leaping down over the huge masses 
of rock below, here commences its long journey to unite with 
other tributaries in making the Mississippi the noblest river in 
the universe. Directly at the spring we found three small 
cotton-wood trees, one of which was blazed, and the fact of 
our having visited the place, with the date, marked upon it. 

On beholding this minute rivulet as it wends its tortuous 
course down the steep descent of the canon, it is difficult to 
realize that it forms the germ of one of the largest and most 
important rivers in America ; floating steamers upon its 
bosom for nearly two thousand miles, and depositing an allu- 
vion along its borders which renders its valley unsurpassed 
for fertility. 

We took many copious draughts of the cool and refreshing 
water in the spring, and thereby considered ourselves, with 
the pleasure we received from the beautiful and majestic 
scenery around us, amply remunerated for all our fatigue and 
privations. The magnificence of the views that presented 
themselves to our eyes as we approached the head of the 
river, exceeded anything I had ever beheld. It is impossible 
for me to describe the sensations that came over me, and the 
exquisite pleasure I experienced, as I gazed upon these grand 
and novel pictures. 

The stupendous escarpments of solid rock, rising precipi- 
tously from the bed of the river to such a height as, for a 
great portion of the da} r , to exclude the rays of the sun, were 
worn away, by the lapse of time and the action of the water 
and the weather, into the most fantastic forms, that required 
but little effort of the imagination to convert into works of art, 
and all united in forming one of the grandest and most pictu- 
resque scenes that can be imagined. We all, with one ac- 
cord, stopped and gazed with wonder and admiration upon a 
panorama which was now for the first time exhibited to the 
eyes of civilized man. Occasionally might be seen a good 
representation of the towering walls of a castle of the feudal 
ages, with its giddy battlements pierced with loopholes, and 
its projecting watch-towers standing out in bold relief upon 
the azure ground of the pure and transparent sky above. In 
other places our fancy would metamorphose the escarpments 
into a bastion front, as perfectly modelled and constructed as 
if it had been a production of the genius of Vauban, with re- 



LLANO ESTACAD0. 61- 

doubts and salient angles all arranged in due order. Then, 
again, we would see a colossal specimen of sculpture repre- 
senting the human figure, with all the features of the face* 
which, standing upon its lofty pedestal, overlooks the valley r 
and seems to have been designed and executed by the Al- 
mighty artist as the presiding genius of these dismal solitudes* 

All here was crude nature, as it sprang into existence at 
the fiat of the Almighty architect of the universe, still pre- 
serving its primeval type, its unreclaimed sublimity and wild- 
ness ; and it forcibly inspired me with that veneration which 
is justly due to the high antiquity of nature's handiworks, and 
which seems to increase as we consider the solemn and im- 
portant lesson that is taught us in reflecting upon their con- 
tinued permanence when contrasted with our own fleeting 
and momentary existence. 

On climbing up to the summit of the escarpment over the 
head of the spring, we found ourselves upon the level plain of 
the " Llano estacado," which spreads out from here in one 
uninterrupted desert, to the base of the mountains east of the 
Rio Grande. The geographical position of this point, as de- 
termined by courses and distances from the place where we 
left the wagons, is in latitude 34° 42' north, and longitude 
103° 7' 11" west ; and its approximate elevation above the 
sea, as determined by frequent and careful barometric obser- 
vations, is 2,450 feet. 

The geological formation is different here from what it is 
below, inasmuch as we find no gypsum ; and the moment we 
passed this mineral, (which was only about two miles before 
we reached the head of the river,) the water became at once 
sweet and good. 

We have seen numerous bear tracks within the past two 
days ; and occasionally the animals themselves, two of which 
we killed. Several that we saw, however, escaped ; and we 
had frequent occasions to regret the loss of our bear-dog, as 
we might have killed many more with his assistance. 

John Bull, who still continued to ride the same fractious 
horse which he had in the buffalo hunt, made a brush with a 
large bear to-day, but did not succeed in getting alongside of 
him, as the horse became perfectly mad and unmanageable 
the moment he got sight of the bear. This is often the case ; 
and there are but few horses that can be made to approach 
one of these animals. 

Several anecdotes, which were related to me by our guide? 
concerning the habits of the black bear, would seem to entitle 



XJ4 instincts of the bear. 

bim to a higher position in the scale of animal instinct and 
sagacity than that of almost any other quadruped. For in- 
stance, he says that before making his bed to lie down, the 
animal invariably goes several hundred yards with the wind, 
at a distance from his track. Should an enemy now come 
upon his track, he must approach him with the wind ; and 
with the bear's keen sense of smell, he is almost certain to be 
made aware of his presence, and has time to escape before 
he is himself seen. 

He also states that when pursued, the bear sometimes takes 
refuge in caves in the earth or rocks, where the hunter often 
endeavors, by making a smoke at the entrance, to force him 
out j but it not unfrequently happens, that instead of coming 
out? when the smoke becomes too oppressive, he very delibe- 
rately advances to the fire, and with his fore feet beats upon 
it until it is extinguished, then retreats into the cave. This 
he assured me he had often seen. Although these statements 
would seem to endow bruin with something more than mere 
animal instinct, and evince a conception of the connexion 
between cause and effect, yet another anecdote which was 
related to me would go to prove this curious quadruped one of 
the most stupid fellows in the brute creation. 

My informant says, that when the bear cannot be driven 
out the cave by smoke, it sometimes becomes necessary for 
the hunter to take his rifle, and with a torch to enter the cavern 
in search of him. One would suppose this a very hazardous 
undertaking, and that the animal would soon eject the pre- 
sumptuous intruder ; but, on the contrary, as soon as he sees 
the light approaching, he sits upright on his haunches, and 
with his fore paws covers his face and eyes, and remains in 
this position until the light is removed. Thus the hunter is 
enable to approach as close as he desires without danger, and 
taking deadly aim with his faithful rifle, poor bruin is slain. 
These facts have been stated to me by three different Indians, 
,in whose veracity I have much confidence, and I have no 
doubt are strictly true. The black bear is generally harmless 
unless wounded, or when accompanied by its young, when I 
have known one of them to pursue a man on horsebak 
several hundred yards in the most furious mood, snapping 
continually at the legs of the horse. 

July 3.— -We reached camp to-day from the head of the 
river, having returned over the same route that we ascended, 
and found all anxiously awaiting us. From this point to the 
head of the river is sixty-five miles, and for about sixty miles 



HOMEWARD MARCH. 63 

of this distance the river runs through a deep defile, the 
escarpments of which rise from five to eight hundred feet 
upon each side, and in many places they approach so near 
the water's edge that there is not room for a man to pass, and 
it is often necessary to travel for several miles in the bed of 
the river before a place is found where a horse can clamber 
up the precipitous sides of the chasm. 

I could not determine in my own mind whether this remark- 
able defile had been formed, after a long lapse of time, by 
the continued action of the current, or had been produced 
by some great convulsion of nature : perhaps both causes 
have contributed to its formation, some convulsive operation 
having first given birth to an extensive fissure, and the 
ceaseless action of the stream having afterwards reduced it 
to its present condition. 9 

A gentleman who is travelling with us, and who was attached 
as a captain to Col. McLeod's expedition to Santa Fe, so 
graphically described by Mr. Kendall, recognized a point, 
near the head of the river, where his command passed. He 
is of the opinion that the river which they ascended, and sup- 
posed at the time to be the principal branch of Red river, 
must have been the Big Witchita, and they probably passed 
entirely to the south of the main branch of the river. The 
fact that they were for a long time upon the plains of the 
"Llano estacado" would go to confirm this supposition, as 
anywhere to the north of this stream they would not have 
encountered much of it. 

July 4.— This morning at an early hour we turned our faces 
towards home, and travelled about five miles down the right 
bank of the river, when we discovered that the country in 
advance upon that side was so much broken into deep gullies 
and abrupt ridges that it would be impracticable to get our 
wagons over them. We therefore crossed to the north side of 
the river, where we found a most excellent road over smooth 
prairie. At our present position we have a pond of excellent 
water, with an abundance of hackberry and cotton-wood for 
fuel. On approaching the pond, Capt. McClellan and my- 
self, who were in advance of the command, espied a huge 
panther very leisurely walking away in an opposite direc- 
tion ; and as, in hunter's parlance, we " had the wind of him," 
it enabled us to ride sufficiently near to give him a shot 
before he discovered us. It took effect and caused him to make 
a tremenduous leap into the air, and, running a short distance, 
he fell dead. We have also killed four deer to-day, which 



84 BOG-TOWN. 

supplies us with an abundance of fresh meat. Some of the 
bucks are now very fat, and the venison is superior to any 
I have ever eaten. 

The pond of water at our camp is a very peculiar and 
strange freak of nature. It is almost round, two hundred and 
fifty feet in diameter, with the water thirty feet deep, and per- 
fectly transparent and sweet. The surface of the water in 
this basin is about twenty feet below the banks, and the sides 
of the depression nearly perpendicular. The country for two 
or three miles around, in all directions, rises to the height of 
from one to two hundred feet. As this pond seems to be sup- 
plied by springs, and has no visible outlet, it occurred to me 
that there might possibly be a subterraneous communication 
which carried off the surplus water and the earth from the 
depression of the basin. 

July o.' — -We were in motion this morning at 2 o'clock, 
keeping down the left bank of the river, in an easterly course 
over a firm and smooth road for sixteen miles, when we found 
ourselves upon a small running creek, the w~ater of which was 
strongly charged with salts ; but as we had filled our casks 
at the pond we did not suffer. 

We are encamped near a conical-shaped mound, flat upon 
the top, and are about three miles from the main river. 

We find much more mezquite timber upon this branch of 
the river than upon the other. Indeed, I have never seen 
much of this wood above the thirty-sixth degree of north lat- 
itude ; but south of this it appears to increase in quantity and 
size as far as the twenty-eighth degree. Upon the Canadian 
river I have observed a few small bushes ; but the climate in 
that latitude appears too cold for it to flourish well. 

The soil here is sandy, with but little water, and that for 
the most part of a quality unfit for use. The grama and 
mezquite grasses are abundant. Our route for the last fifty 
miles has carried us through an almost continuous dog-town, 
but as yet we have not been able to secure a live specimen. 
The latitude at this point is 34° 8' 30". 

July 6.— Our wagons were packed, and we were en route 
before 3 o'clock this morning, but were obliged to deviate 
from our course very considerably to pass around some deep 
ravines that extended back to near the crest of the ridge, 
dividing the middle from the south fork. In this route we 
traversed a very smooth and elevated rolling prairie, from 
which we frequently obtained views of the valleys of both 
branches of the river. 



MULBERRY CREEK. 65 

The grama grass, which appears to flourish in this section, 
Is now in process of heading, and will soon be matured.* 
This most excellent forage for animals does not ripen until 
quite late in the season, and remains green during most of the 
winter. I have observed it Growing in about the same latitudes 
as the mezquite trees ; but it is most abundant in New Mex- 
ico, where it is the predominating grass of the country. 

As I was riding at a distance from the train to-day, I saw- 
three Indians, but they immediately passed out of view in 
a ravine, and were not observed again. 

We are encamped this evening upon a very clear and 
rapid brook ; but the water, unfortunately, has the character- 
istic taste of the gypsum. 

There is capital grass upon the creek, and large cotton- 
wood and hackberry, with a few mulberry trees, which, being 
the first we have seen for several weeks, has suggested a 
name for the stream — "Mulberry creek." 

July 7. — We left camp at 2 o'clock this morning, and con- 
tinued on for three miles over the same description of coun- 
try as that we passed yesterday, when we arrived at a swift- 
running creek, twenty-five feet wide and eight inches deep, 
of clear, cold water ; but, as usual, upon tasting it, found it 
unpalatable. After passing this creek our course was nearly 
parallel to ihe river, and from four to twelve miles distant. 

The gypsum formation characterizes this section, and has 
continued from near the head of the river to this plnce ; but 
as it imparts to the water such disagreeable qualities, we 
earnestly desire to see no more of it. 



* Two varieties of grama grass-seed ( Chondrosium foeneum and .Jltlieropogon 
digostachyum) were collected and disposed of in the manner mentioned in the 
following letter t 

U. S. Patent Office, 

November 12, 1852. 

Sir : The two packages of grama grass-seed from near the sources of Red 
river, forwarded by you to this office, have been received, and you are requested 
to accept the thanks of the office for the same. They have already been dis- 
tributed, in conformity with your suggestion, to gentlemen in the States of Vir- 
ginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Louisiana. 
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

S. H. HODGES 
Capt. R. B. Marct 5 New York, 



bb COLLECTION OF REPTILES. 

One of our Delawares killed a very large wild cat (Lyncm 
rufus) to-day, the skin of which we have preserved. 

Our collection of reptiles increases very rapidly, and we 
now have upwards of a hundred specimens, many of them 
very beautiful and interesting. Our herbarium is also enlarg- 
ing daily, and we already have a large collection. 



ANTELOPES AND DEER. 67 



CHAPTER VII. 

Antelope and Deer — Witchita Mountains in sight — Reach Buffalo Creek — 
Valley of Otter Creek — Salubrity of Climate — Deer Bleat — Horse Flies — 
Scurvey — Witchita Mountains — Pass through the Mountains — Buffalo seen. 

July 8. — -Our train was again in motion at 2 o'clock this 
morning, and our road led us over very elevated table lands, 
near the dividing ridge of the two branches of the river, where 
the country is totally destitute of wood or water, and alto- 
gether devoid of interest until reaching this place, where we 
find a few small ponds of wretched water and a clump of 
trees. 

In addition to four deer and two antelopes that have been 
killed by our party to-day, our greyhounds have contributed 
another deer to our larder. 

We have bad several good opportunities since we have 
been upon the plains of witnessing the relative speed of the 
different animals found here, and our observations have con- 
firmed the opinion I have before advanced. For example, 
the grevhounds have, upon several different occasions, run 
down and captured the deer and the prairie rabbits, which are 
also considered very fleet ; but although they have had very 
many races with the antelope under favorable circumstances, 
yet they have never, in one instance, been able to overtake 
them ; on the contrary, the longer the chase has continued 
the greater has been the distance between them. The Cer- 
mis Virginianus (our red deer) has generally been considered 
the fleetest animal upon the continent after the horse, but the 
Antibcapra Americana, or prong-horned antelope of the plains. 
is very much swifter. 

One of our hunters, who has been in advance of our camp. 
says he obtained a distant view of the Witchita mountains, 
and that "he has also discovered several telegraphic smokes 
in a northeasterly direction. 

July 9. — -Getting under way at 2 o'clock this morning, we 
journeyed over the elevated prairie in a northeast course to- 
wards the dividing ridge, and, on coming upon the crest of. 
this elevation, some of the most lofty peaks at the western 



DO DEER KfJLLED. 

extremity of the Witchita chain of mountains showed them- 
selves in the distance, like smoky clouds against the back- 
ground of the murky sky near the horizon. Crossing over the 
ridge, we made for the head of a creek, where we expected 
to find good water, but upon reaching it we found the gyp- 
sum rocks, and, as usual, the water exceedingly bitter and 
wholly unfit for use. After travelling down this creek for four 
miles, we encamped at a small pond, containing a liquid which 
we were obliged to make use of, but it had more the appear- 
ance of the clrainings from a stable-yard than water. 

We find more timber upon the borders of this stream than 
we have seen since leaving Sweet-water creek ; it consists of 
china, hackberry, cotton-wood, and mulberry. The grass is 
luxuriant, and the vegetation of the valley has a smiling and 
verdant aspect, that marks the fertility of the soil. 

Four deer have been killed to-day — two of which I was 
so fortunate as to add to my list : one was also caught by the 
greyhounds. They have afforded us much and rare sport by 
frequent chases, of which the smooth prairie has afforded us 
a good view. 

It is a most beautiful spectacle to mark the slender and 
graceful figures of the hounds as they strain every muscle to 
its utmost tension in their eager and rapid pursuit of the 
panic-stricken deer. It is a contest between two of the 
fleetest and most graceful and beautiful quadrupeds in exist- 
ence : the one has his life at stake, and the other is animated 
by all that eager enthusiasm which is characteristic of a tho- 
rough-bred animal. They both put forth all the energies with 
which the Author of their being has endowed them, and seem 
to fly over the wavy undulations of the plains. Now they 
are upon the summit of one of these swells, and the startled 
animal has disappeared in an adjoining ravine, and for a mo- 
ment the hounds are at fault ; but soon they espy him panting 
up the opposite acclivity, when the}*" are off again like the 
wind, in hot pursuit, and, rapidly closing upon their devoted 
victim, they are soon engaged in the death-struggle. This 
sport is most intensely exciting, and he who would not be- 
come interested in it would hardly be entitled to claim con- 
sanguinity with the great family of Nimrod. 

The result of our observations for latitude at this position 
is 34° 8' 11". 

July 10. — As the country over which we had to pass this 
morning was intersected by numerous abrupt ravines, we 
were unable to leave camp until daylight. 



INDIAN SIGNS. 



69 



Our course led us over a high ridge, in an easterly direction 
for several miles, when we arrived upon the banks of a deep 
and rapid affluent of the main river, along which we travel- 
led for two miles, encamping near a spring of cold, but 
brackish water. 

We have seen Indian-tracks to-day, made about three days 
since, and are much astonished that they have not paid us a 
visit, as some of the different parties we have passed must 
have seen our trail. 

The Witchita mountains have been in sight to the left all 
day, and our present position is very nearly opposite the wes- 
tern extremity of the chain. The variation of the magnetic 
needle at this point is 10° 45' 30" east. 

July 11. — Striking our tents at an early hour this morning, 
we continued down the valley of the creek for ten miles, 
when we turned to the north, and followed for several miles 
a ridge dividing this from another stream, upon which we are 
encamped. 

The face of the country over which we are now journey- 
ing is totally without interest, being arid, sterile, and flat, and 
presenting no object upon which the eye can rest with 
pleasure. 

The stream at this place is thirty yards wide, two feet deep, 
with a swift current, and the water brackish. Since we left 
the head of the Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no, we have found but three 
places upon the route where the water has been entirely free 
from salts, and at these places, with one exception, it has been 
insipid, stagnant, and muddy ; yet our animals drink it and 
appear fond of it. As yet, we have lost none of our stock 
by death or straying. Our oxen, although they have per- 
formed more labor than the mules, are in much better condi- 
tion ; indeed, they have been constantly improving, while the 
others have become somewhat poor and jaded. This goes to 
confirm me in an opinion I had previously formed as to the 
comparative powers of endurance of the two different kinds 
of cattle for long journeys upon the plains. I have no hesita- 
tion in expressing a decided opinion in favor of the oxen. 

July 12. — As we anticipated a long march, reveille was 
sounded at 1 o'clock this morning, and we were en route, at 2. 
Taking a course north of east towards a mountain which we 
recognised as being upon Beaver creek, we reached the con- 
fluence of this stream with Red river at 9 o'clock, and cross- 
ing a short distance above the junction, encamped in a bend 
of the creek, where, to the supreme satisfaction of every one 



70 



WOOD-LAND. 



in the command, we once more found good running water, 
and after being for so long a time deprived of it we enjoyed 
it exceedingly. 

When drinking the bad water upon the plains it has often 
occurred to me that we do not sufficiently appreciate the 
luxury of good water in those more favored parts of our 
country, where it everywhere abounds in the greatest profu- 
sion. The suffering produced by the absence of good water 
in a journey on the plains during the heat of the summer 
months is known only to those who have experienced it. As 
we have now passed the gypsum range of country, we do 
not anticipate any more difficulty in finding good water. 

We shall remain at this place to-morrow, and on the day 
following propose to ascend Otter creek to the mountains, 
and passing down through the chain, shall make a careful and 
thorough examination of the geological character of the for- 
mation, and any other objects of interest that may present 
themselves in our route. 

Red river, above the mouth of Otter creek, which was at 
a stage above fording when we passed up, is now only two 
feet deep, and flows at the rate of about three miles per hour. 

Fresh buffalo-tracks have been seen to-day, and six deer 
and one turkey brought in by the hunters. 

July 13. — This morning, for the first time in several weeks, 
we have had a rain, which has refreshed and revivified the 
whole face of the country. Previous to this the ground had 
become so much parched from the lack of moisture that vege- 
tation was suffering considerably. The herbage in the valley 
of the creek appears to have felt the drought more than upon 
the elevated prairies ; here it has put on a yellow tinge, and 
a perfume is emitted from it similar to that of fresh hay, while 
upon the more elevated plains it still retains its deep green 
attire. Nine deer have been killed to-day, and I again marked 
two upon my list. 

July 14. — Captain McClellan and myself started out this 
morning to make an examination of the country along the up- 
per portion of the valley of the creek, while the command 
crossed and encamped about four miles above our position of 
last night. 

There is much more woodland towards the sources of the 
stream than I had supposed. Black walnut, pecan, hack- 
berry, elm, and cotton-wood are among the varieties of timber 
found here ; the mezquite is also abundant near the moun- 
tains. 



MOUNTAIN PEAKS. 71 

Many of the ti*ees in the bottom are straight and of sufficient 
dimensions to make good building material, and there is an 
ample supply for the farmer's purposes. The soil in the valley 
is for the most part a dark, rich alluvion, sustaining a dense 
carpet of herbage, and I have no doubt would yield abundant 
crops of grain. 

The stream extends in two principal branches back to the 
mountains, where they receive numerous small tributary 
rivulets flowing from springs. The course of the principal 
branch is northeast and southwest, and is about twenty miles 
in length. The mountains here appear to be in groups or 
clusters of detached peaks of a conical form, indicating a vol- 
canic origin, with smooth, level glades intervening; and rising, 
as they do, perfectly isolated from all surrounding eminences 
ypon the plateau of the great prairies, their rugged and pre- 
cipitous granite sides almost denuded of vegetation, they pre- 
sent a very peculiar and imposing feature in the topographical 
aspect of the country. From the fact that the ground occu- 
pying the space between the mountains is a level, smooth 
surface, and exhibits no evidence of upheaval or distortion, 
may it not with propriety be inferred that the deposition here 
is of an origin subsequent to that of the upheaval of the moun- 
tains ? 

Jidij 15.— -We were in motion at two o'clock this morning; 
and, taking a northeast course towards the base of the moun- 
tain chain, passed through mezquite groves, intersected with 
several brooks of pure water flowing into the south branch of 
Cache creek, upon one of which we are encamped. 

We find the soil good at all places near the mountains, and 
the country well wooded and watered. The grass, consisting 
of several varieties of the grama, is of a superior quality, and 
grows luxuriantly. The climate is salubrious ; and the almost 
constant cool and bracing breezes of the summer months, with 
die entire absence of anything like marshes or stagnant water, 
remove all sources of noxious malaria, with its attendant evils 
of autumnal fevers. 

I was so fortunate as to kill a very large and fat buck to-day, 
which adds much relish to the good cheer of our evening 
meal. Three others having been brought in by the hunters, 
our larder is at present well stocked with meat. Indeed, there 
has been but a small portion of the time since we have been 
out that our excellent hunters have not supplied the entire 
command with an abundance of fresh m^at. Although we 



72 



DEER-BLEATS. 



have beef cattle in the train, we have as yet had no occasion 
to make use of one of them. 

One of the Delawares has seen fresh buffalo tracks to-day 
going to the southeast, and we still cherish the hope that we 
may yet encounter them. 

John Bushman, our interpreter, was much surprised to-day, 
on calling a doe towards him with a deer-bleat, to see a small 
fawn following after its mother ; but imagine his astonish- 
ment, when immediately behind the fawn came a huge pan- 
ther bounding rapidly towards him, and in a twinkling he 
fastened his claws in the vitals of his victim. He, however? 
in this instance, caught a tartar, and paid dearly for his teme- 
rity, as John, with a spirit of indignation that would have done 
credit to the better feelings of any man, raised his rifle, and? 
instead of killing the deer, which was entirely at his mercy, 
planted the contents in the side of the panther. 

• The method of hunting deer by the use of the bleet is prac- 
tised extensively by the Delawares in this country, and with 
great success. 

They make the bleat somewhat similar to the first joint of 
a clarionet, with a brass reed scraped very thin, and applied 
in the same manner as upon the clarionet, and so regulate and 
adjust the instrument by experiment as to imitate almost pre- 
cisely the cry of the young fawn. They use them during the 
months of June and July, before the does have weaned their 
young. Riding along near a copse of trees or brush where 
they suppose the deer to be lying, they sound their bleats, 
which can be heard for half a mile ; and as the doe never re- 
mains near her fawn any longer than is necessary to give it 
food, (when she retires to an adjoining thicket and makes her 
bed alone,) she immediately takes alarm at what she con- 
ceives to be a cry of distress from her helpless offspring, and, 
in the intensity of her maternal affection, she rushes at full 
speed in the direction of the cry, and frequently conies within 
a few yards of the hunter, who stands ready to give her a 
death-wound. This is an unsportsmanlike way of hunting 
deer, and only admissible when provisions are scarce. 

The bear, the wolf, and panther often come at the call 
of the bleat, supposing they are to feast upon the tender 
flesh of the fawn. It might be supposed that in a country 
where there are so many carnivorous animals, the greater 
portion of the deer would be killed by them while young ; 
but nature, in the wisdom of its arrangements, has provided 
the helpless little quadruped with a means of security against 



MOUNTAIN SPRING* 73 

their attacks, which is truly wonderful. It is a well-known 
•fact among hunters that the deer deposit a much stronger 
scent upon their tracks than any other animal, inasmuch as 
a dog can without difficulty follow them long after they have 
passed at a distance of many yards from the track. Notwith- 
standing this, the fawns, until they are sufficiently grown to 
be able to make good running, give out no scent whatever 
upon their tracks, and a dog of the best nose cannot follow 
them except by sight. I have often seen the experiment 
made, and am perfectly satisfied that such is the case ; this, 
therefore, must in a great measure protect them from the 
attacks of the wild animals of the country. 

July 16. — Our reveille sounded at two, and we were en 
route at three o'clock this morning. Continuing a northeast 
course for four miles, we crossed a fine stream of clear water 
issuing from the mountains, and running into the south branch 
of Cache creek ; after travelling three miles further, we 
passed another, and made our encampment upon a third : all 
of these were of about equal magnitude, and similar in char- 
acter. They take their rise from springs among the granite 
mountains, and flow over the detritus and sand at the base ; 
are about twenty feet wide, with the water clear and rapid. 
The banks are abrupt, about ten feet high, and composed of 
white clay and sandstone. Upon each of these branches 
there are large bodies of post-oak timber, much of which 
would serve as building-material, and near the bank of the 
creek we observed black-walnut. 

Within a distance of six miles around our camp, I should 
estimate the amount of woodland at eight thousand acres.. 
The grass is of the very best quality, and the soil cannot be 
surpassed for fertility. 

We are, at this place, directly at the base of one of the 
most lofty and rugged mountains of the range. Its bare and 
naked sides are almost destitute of anything in the shape of 
a tree or plant, and it is only here and there that a small 
patch of green can be discerned. Huge masses of flesh-col- 
ored granite, standing out in jagged crags upon the lofty 
acclivities, everywhere present themselves to the eye, and 
the scenery is most picturesque, grand, and imposing. 

We have for a few days past been much annoyed with a 
species of large black horse-fly, which attacks the animals 
most savagely, and leaves his red mark wherever he touches 
them. These, with a species of small black gnat, are the 
only insects that we have been troubled with. 



74 



ANTI-SCORBUTICS. 



The two men who for several weeks have been suffering 
from the scurvy are no better, and I am fearful, if we do not 
find the wild onion soon, that they will be in a bad state. 

I have caused all the men of the command to use freely 
what few anti-scorbutics we were enabled to procure from 
the subsistence department, as also all the wild vegetables 
that could be obtained upon the march ; but these do not 
seem sufficient to fend off the disease, when men have for a 
long time been confined exclusively to animal diet, and con- 
stantly subjected to other causes that predispose the system 
to the disease. 

The soldiers are by no means anxious to make use of the 
anti-scorbutics from the commissary department, as they are 
obliged to pay for them by submitting to a deduction in the 
amount of their ration, which, at most, is a very small allow- 
ance for men who are marching or laboring hard. This fact 
is so well established, that when citizen teamsters are em- 
ployed in the quartermaster's department, it is either neces- 
sary to give them an allowance of fifty per cent, more in the 
amount of provisions than the soldier gets, or an addition to 
his pay to enable him to purchase an equivalent. Dr. 
Shumard has made use of all the remedies in his possession 
in the cases of scurvy that have been under his treatment, 
but he is of opinion that they avail but little in the absence 
of vegetable diet. Our men have discovered some green 
grapes to-day, which I hope may relieve the sick men. 
Several gentlemen of the party ascended the mountain near 
our camp this evening, and obtained a fine view of the adjoin- 
ing country. They discovered that there were three distinct 
ranges running from northeast to southwest ; at this place 
they appear to be united in one chain, but there seems to be 
no pass practicable for wagons in this vicinity. 

July 17. — Moving out from camp at halt-past three this 
morning, we journeyed along the southeastern base of the 
mountains, passing several spring-brooks of cold, delicious 
water, flowing from the deep gorges of the mountain, over the 
masses of loose rock at the base, into the valley below. These 
brooks are perennial, and this being the dry season, they are 
probably now at their lowest stage, yet there is a sufficiency 
of water for all purposes of farmers and for milling. 

The soil continues of an excellent quality, and sustains a 
heavy vegetation. In addition to the advantages of rich soil, 
good timber, and water, which everywhere abound near the 



WITCHITA INDIANS. 



75 



mountains, thus far upon our route, may be added that ot 
the great salubrity of the climate. 

The atmosphere in these elevated regions is cool, elastic, 
and bracing, and the breezes which sweep across the prairie 
temper the heat of the sun, and render it, even in midsum- 
mer, cool and comfortable. 

The different branches of Cache creek drain a large extent 
of country, which might be made available for agricultural 
purposes, and would be sufficient Lo sustain a large popula- 
tion. 

The particular district embracing the Witchita mountains 
has for many years been occupied and (with much justice, it 
seems to me) claimed by the Witchita Indians, who have a 
tradition that their original progenitor issued from the rocks of 
these mountains, and that the Great Spirit gave him and his 
posterity the country in the vicinity for a heritage, and here 
they continued to live and plant corn for a long time. 

Notwithstanding this claim of the Witchitas, which the right 
of occupancy and possession has guarantied to them, yet the 
whole of this beautiful country, as far as the 100th degree of 
west longitude, is included in the grant made b} r the United 
States to the Choctaws, who thereby possess the greater part 
of the lands upon Upper Red river that are really valuable. 

The Witchitas are an insignificant tribe in point of num- 
bers, not having more than about five hundred souls in the 
nation, and are not, of course, prepared to substantiate or en- 
force their title to this country ; and, indeed, I very much 
doubt if they have any claims upon the consideration or gene- 
rosity of our government, being the most notorious and invet- 
erate horse-thieves upon the borders, as the early frontier set- 
tlers of Texas can vouch for ; and they are only held in 
restraint now by fear of the troops near them. They have 
always been extremely jealous of the motives of the white 
people who have wished to penetrate to the interior of their 
country, and have, upon several occasions, driven off parties 
who have attempted to examine the country about the Witch- 
ita mountains. 

We are encamped this evening upon a swift-running brook, 
near a very cold spring of pure water, which affords a de- 
lightful contrast to the water we have met with upon the Ke- 
che-a-qui-ho-no. Following up the large brook into which 
the spring empties, I found its source in a most lovely valley, 
about two miles above our encampment. 

This valley, which is enclosed on three sides by lofty and 



76 



MOUNT SCOTT. 



rugged mountains, is mostly covered with a heavy growth of 
timber of a very superior quality. The trees, which are Cak, 
are large, straight, and tall, and are the best suited to the 
carpenter's purposes of any I have ever seen west of the 
" Cross-Timbers." The soil here possesses great fertilty, 
and the whole valley teems with an exuberance of verdure. 

July 18. — We changed our course this morning to the north, 
and passing up the valley of the creek, found a gap or pass 
in the first chain of mountains, through which, after much 
difficulty, we succeeded in forcing our wagons. This gap, 
although not very elevated, was broken up into deep and nar- 
row gorges, filled with the angular debris of the adjoining 
heights, over which it required great care and patience to 
pass our train in safety. We, however, finally succeeded in 
reaching the open prairie upon the north, and found ourselves 
on the banks of a large stream, upon which we made our en- 
campment. Our position is directly at the base of the most 
elevated mountain in the Witchita chain, which I have taken 
the liberty, in honor of our distinguished commanding gene- 
ral, to call " Mount Scott." This peak, towering as it does 
above all surrounding eminences, presents a very imposing 
feature in the landscape, and is a conspicuous landmark for 
many miles around. The altitude above the base, as deter- 
mined by triangulation with the sextant, is eleven hundred 
and thirty-five feet. 

To the north of Mount Scott lies one of the most beautiful 
and romantic valleys that I have ever seen. It is about 
three miles wide, enclosed between two ranges of the moun- 
tains, and through its centre winds a lovely stream of pure 
water, fifty yards wide and two feet deep, the lively current 
of which rushes wildly down over an almost continuous suc- 
cession of rapids and rocky defiles. It is fringed upon each 
side with gigantic pecan, overcup, (Quercus macrocarpa,) 
white-ash, (Fraxinus Americana,) river-elm, (Ulmus memoralis,) 
and hackberry trees, (Celtis.J About the base of the moun- 
tains we find an abundance of post-oak, (Quercus obtusiloba,) 
and towards the summits, the red cedar (Junvperus Virgini- 
ana) grows. 

The soil in this valley is highly productive, and sustains a 
heavy vegetation. The grass is very dense, of a good quali- 
ty, and from two to three feet high ; and were it not for the 
large flies that continue to phlebotomize our animals, they 
would luxuriate here. 

Towards sundown I took my rifle, and, mounting a small 



BUFFALO. 7 1 

Indian pony belonging to my negro servant, started up the 
creek for the purpose of hunting deer. After I had gone 
about two miles from camp, I suddenly discovered a buffalo 
bull very quietly cropping the grass under some oak trees near 
the creek. No sooner, however, did I see him, than, raising 
his head and giving one look in the direction I was approach- 
ing, he set off at a spanking gallop over the prairie. I ap- 
plied the rowels most vigorously to the diminutive beast 
which I bestrode, and endeavored, by making a cut-off over 
the hills, to get within rifle range ; but after exhausting all the 
efforts of the ppny, I only found myself within about two 
hundred yardsflfcf the buffalo, and gave him a running salute 
as he passed, but did not observe him falter or make the 
slightest diminution in his speed ; whereupon I reluctantly 
abandoned the chase, and returned to camp. 



OLD INDIAN VILLAGES. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Old Indian villages— Beautiful scenery — Trap formation— Lost mule — -Beaver 
creek — Prairie guides — Rush creek— Witchita and Waco villages — Mexican 
prisoners— -Talk with the Indians — Cross Timbers — Kickapoos — Strike wagon 
track — Arrival at Fort Arbuckle. A 

July 19.— At daylight this morning we crossed the creek 
after having excavated a passage for the wagons in the high 
banks, and travelled down the valley along the outer border 
of the timber in the bottom. The country over which we 
marched was of a similar character to that described about 
our last camp, and equally beautiful. We passed two old 
Indian villages, which John Bull, one of the hunters, says' 
were formerly occupied by the Witchitas and Keechies ; 
several of the lodges were still standing, with their old corn- 
fields near by. 

Our camp is upon the creek about a mile above the village 
last occupied by the Witchitas before they left the mountains. 
Here they lived and planted corn for several years, and they 
have exhibited much taste and judgment in the selection of the; 
site for their town. It is situated at the eastern extremity o. 
the mountains, upon a plateau directly along the south bank 
of the creek, and elevated about a hundred feet above it. 
commanding an extended view of the country towards tb< 
north, south, and east. From its commanding position it i> 
well secured against surprise, and is by nature altogether one: 
of the most defensible places I have seen. 

The landscape which is here presented to the eye has ?. 
most charming diversity of scenery, consisting of mountains 
woodlands, glades, water-courses, and prairies, all laid out 
and arranged in such peculiar order as to produce a witching 
effect upon the senses. 

This must have been a favorite spot for the Indians ; and 
why they have abandoned it I cannot imagine, unless it was 
through fear of the Comanches. It is only two years since 
they removed from here, and their lodge-frames are stili 
standing, with the scaffolds upon which they dried their corn, 

The soil, in point of fertility, surpasses anything we hav? 



NATURAL MEADOW. 79 

before seen, and the vegetation in the old corn-fields is so 
dense, that it was with great difficulty I could force my horse 
through it. It consisted of rank weeds, growing to the height 
of twelve feet. Soil of this character must have produced an 
enormous yield of corn. The timber is sufficiently abundant 
for all purposes of the agriculturist, and of a superior quality. 
Most of the varieties of hard wood, such as over-cup, post- 
oak, black-walnut, pecan, hackberry, ash, black or Spanish 
oak, (Quercas elongata,) elm, and china, besides cotton- wood 
and willow, are found here. We also found the wild passion- 
flower, (Passiflom incamata,) and a beautiful variety of the 
sensitive plants which we had not met with before. 

Directly opposite the village, upon the north side, there is a 
large body of timber, which extends across to the eastern 
branch of Cache creek ; this unites with the branch upon 
which we are encamped, about a mile below the village. 

[}pon the south bank of the creek there is an immense na- 
tural meadow, clothed with luxuriant grasses, where hay 
might be procured sufficient to subsist immense numbers of 
cattle. Opposite our camp the creek flows directly at the 
base of a perpendicular wall of porphyritic trap, three hun- 
dred feet high, and studded with dwarf cedars, which, taking 
shallow root in the crevices of the formation, receive their 
meagre sustenance from the scanty decomposition of the rocks* 
This escarpment has a columnar structure, with the flutings 
parallel, and traversing the face in a vertical direction from 
top to bottom, and has the appearance of being the vertical 
section of a round hill that has been cleft asunder and one- 
half removed, there being no appearance of a continuation of 
the formation upon the opposite bank of the creek. All the 
sides of this hill, except that upon the creek, are smooth, with 
gentle and easy slopes, covered with grass up to the very 
verge of the acclivity. On riding up the smooth ascent of 
this eminence, and suddenly coming upon the edge of the 
giddy precipice, one involuntarily recoils back with a shudder 
at the appearance of this strange freak of nature. Large veins 
of quartz were seen traversing this formation, and upon an ex- 
amination of specimens, we found it to be cellular or spongy, 
with the cells rilled with liquid naptha, of about the consist- 
ence of tar, and having a strong resinous odor. 

We have now reached the eastern extremity of the Witchita 
chain of mountains, and shall to-morrow morning cross the 
main creek below the village, and strike our course for Fort 



CHOCTAW RESERVATION. 



Arbuckle, this being the nearest military post, and in our 
course for Fort Smith. 

The more we have seen of the country about these moun- 
tains, the more pleased we have been with it. Indeed, I have 
never visited any country that, in my opinion, possessed 
greater natural local advantages for agriculture than this. 
Bounteous nature seems here to have strewed her favors with 
a lavish hand, and to have held out every inducement for 
civilized man to occupy it. The numerous tributaries of Cache 
creek flowing from granite fountains, and winding, like net- 
work, in every direction through the valleys in the mountains— 
withthe advantages of good timber, soil, and grass, the pure, 
elastic, and delicious climate, with a bracing atmosphere— all 
unite in presenting rare inducements to the husbandman. It 
would only be necessary for our practical farmers to visit this lo- 
cality ; they could not be otherwise than pleased with it. And 
were it not for the fact that the greater part of the most desir- 
able _ lands lie east of the 100th meridian of longitude, and 
within the limits of that vast territory ceded by our govern- 
ment to the Choctaws, it would be purchased and settled by our 
citizens in a very few years. As it is now situated, far beyond 
the limits of the settlements, and directly within the range of 
the Comanches, it is of no use to the Choctaws themselves, 
as they do not venture among the prairie tribes, and do not 
even know the character of this part of their own territory. 
They have a superabundance of fertile lands bordering upon 
the Red and Canadian rivers, near the white settlements of 
Texas and Arkansas, and they prefer occupying those to 
going further out. They have thrown aside their primitive 
habits, in a great degree, and abandoned the precarious and 
uncertain life of the hunter, for the more quiet avocation of 
the husbandman. They look upon the wild Indian in much 
the same light as we do, and do not go among them ; indeed, 
there is but little in common with them and the wild Indians.* 
In consequence of losing one of our mules last night, we 
were detained later than usual this morning. Two of the 



*The lands included within the Choctaw reservation, which are not occupied 
or made use of by them, are embraced within the 97th and 100th degrees of 
west longitude, and are bounded upon the north and south by the Canadian and 
Red rivers, being about one hundred and eighty miles in length by fifty in width, 
and constituting an aggregate of about nine thousand square miles of valuable 
and productive lands, or one thousand square miles more than the State of 
Massachusetts. 



PERSEVERANCE OF THE GUIDES. 81 

Delawares went out at day-light in search of it, but returned 
in about two hours, not having been able to strike the track. 
We had, up to this time, been so fortunate as to lose no ani- 
mals. I was, therefore, particularly desirous that the lost mule 
should be recovered, and intimated as much to our interpreter, 
John Bushman, who had not joined in the first search. At 
the same time, I asked him what he thought were the chances 
of success. He replied, in his laconic and non-committal 
style, " I think maybe so find um — -maybe not." I directed 
him to make an effort, and not give over the search as long- 
as there remained the least prospect of success. We then 
packed our wagons and started on towards Fort Arbuckle, 
crossing the creek below the old village, where it was forty 
yards wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current flowing 
over a bed of gravel. 

Upon the east bank of the creek we passed over a broad 
and level piece of bottom-land, covered with a dense crop of 
wild rice, and other rich grasses. We then left the valley in 
a course north of east, over the ridge dividing Cache from Bea- 
ver creek, until we reached a branch of the latter, upon which 
we encamped. The timber here is large and abundant ; the 
water fresh, but standing in pools ; and the soil good. I have 
crossed this same stream at four different places below here, 
and have invariably found the soil of a similar character and 
the timber large, consisting of pecan, elm, hackberry, oak, cot- 
ton-wood, and walnut, and generally confined to the borders 
of the stream. 

Our most excellent and indefatigable hunter, John Bush- 
man, returned this evening with the lost mule, having tracked 
him for twenty miles from where he left us. He had also 
killed a buffalo during the day, and brought us a piece of the 
hump. He states that from the time the mule left us until he 
overtook him, he had continued to travel, without stopping, 
directly to the north, and at right-angles to the course we had 
been pursuing. 1 inquired of him if he did not become al- 
most discouraged before he came up with the animal. He 
said no ; that I had ordered him not to return without him, 
and that he should have been on the track yet if he had not 
overtaken him. I have no doubt such would have been the 
case, for he is a man of eminently determinate and resolute 
character, with great powers of endurance, and a most acute 
and vigilant observer, accompanied by prominent organs of 
locality and sound judgment. These traits of character, with 
the abundant experience he has had upon the plains, make him 
6 



82 RESOLUTION OF THE INDIANS. 

one of the very best guides I have ever met with. He never 
sees a place once without instantly recognising it on seeing it 
the second time, notwithstanding he may approach it from a 
different direction ; and the very moment he takes a glance 
over a district of country he has never seen before, he will al- 
most invariably point out the particular localities (if there are 
any such) where water can be found, when to others there 
seems to be nothing to indicate it. Such qualifications render 
the services of these people highly important, and almost in- 
dispensable in a tour upon the prairies. 

An incident which was related to me as occurring with one 
of these guides a few years since, forcibly illustrates their 
character. The officer having charge of the party to which 
he was attached, sent him out to examine a trail he had met 
with on the prairie, for the purpose of ascertaining where it 
would lead to. The guide, after following it as far as he sup- 
posed he would be required to do, returned and reported that 
it led off into the prairies to no particular place, so far as he 
could discover. He was told that this was not satisfactory, and 
directed to take the trail again, and to follow it until he gained 
the required information. He accordingly went out the second 
time, but did not return that day, nor the next, and the party, 
after a time, began to be alarmed for his safety, fearing he 
might have been killed by the Indians. Da} r s and weeks 
passed by, but still nothing was heard of the guide, until, on 
arriving at the first border settlement, to their astonishment, 
he made his appearance among them, and, approaching the 
commanding officer, said, " Captain, that trail which you 
ordered me to follow terminates here." He had, with in- 
domitable and resolute energy, traversed alone several hun- 
dred miles of wild and desolate prairie, with nothing but his 
gun to depend upon for a subsistence, determined this time to 
carry out the instructions of his employer to the letter. 

July 21. — We crossed two small branches this morning at 
four o'clock, and continued our course over undulating prai- 
ries, with smooth and even surfaces, frequently crossing small 
affluents of Beaver creek, where we found good running spring 
water, which can always be relied upon. 

We had a copious shower this morning, which is the first 
rain that has fallen in several weeks. 

There is good timber and grass upon all the branches we have 
passed to-day, and the soil is highly productive. We have also 
passed several groves of post-oak timber upon the ridges ; this, 
however, for the most part, is small, short, and scrubby. 



WITCHITA VILLAGE. 83 

Jtihj 22. — Making an early start at two o'clock this morn- 
ing, we ascended the eastern branch of Beaver creek to its 
source, when we found ourselves upon the ridge dividing this 
stream from Rush creek. The ridge is covered with timber 
similar to that of the Cross Timbers, consisting of post-oak 
and black-jack, ( Querents ferruginea. ) 

Our road leads for five miles through this timber, when it 
emerges into a beautiful meadow, where the head of one of 
the branches of Rush creek takes its rise in large springs, and 
runs off' in a fine bold stream, with a variety of hard timber 
along its borders. After following down this about two miles, 
we suddenly came in sight of several squaws who were col- 
lecting the tall grass which grows along the banks of the 
creek. They no sooner espied us than they jumped upon 
their horses and were about making off"; most of them, how- 
ever, stopped at the command of our interpreter, while one 
or two gallopped away in the direction of the village to give 
notice of our approach. They proved to be Wacos and Wit- 
chitas, and informed us that their villages were about four 
miles in advance, at the same time inviting us to pay them a 
visit. We reached the villages (which were situated upon the 
banks of Rush creek) and encamped about half a mile bekrw 
them in the valley. 

Immediately on our arrival we were accosted by a large 
crowd of men who were anxious to learn where we had been 
and whether we had seen any Comanches ; and as we were 
(I think) the first party of whites who had visited them at this 
place, they appeared very glad to see us — probably in antici- 
pation of presents. 

There are two villages here occupied by the Witchitas and 
Wacos respectively ; they are situated in the rich and fertile 
valley of the creek, where they have cultivated corn, pump- 
kins, beans, peas, and melons. These people have no ploughs, 
or other agricultural implements, but a small hoe, with which 
they prepare the ground for the reception of the seed, and do 
all other necessary work in its cultivation ; yet the prolific 
soil gives them bountiful returns ; and were it not for their im- 
provident natures, they might, with little labor, have sufficient 
for the whole year. Instead of this, they only care for the 
present, and from the time the corn is fit for roasting, are con- 
continually eating and feasting until it is gone. They are then 
obliged to depend upon the precarious results of the chase 
during the remainder of the year. 

The village of the Witchitas has forty-two lodges, each 



84 WACOES. 

containing two families of about ten persons. These lodges 
are made by erecting a frame-work of poles placed in a cir- 
cle in the ground, with the tops united in an oval form and 
bound together with numerous withes or wattles, the whole 
nicely thatched with grass ; and when completed, it makes a 
very commodious and comfortable domicil. The interior ar- 
rangements are such, that every person has a bunk, raised 
from the ground and covered with buffalo-hides, forming a 
couch which is far from being uncomfortable. When seated 
around their fires in the centre of the lodges, they have an air 
of domestic happiness about them which I did not expect to 
find. 

The lodges are about twenty-five feet in diameter at the 
base, twenty feet high, and in the distance have very much 
the appearance of a group of hay-stacks. With the excep- 
tion of a few families that live upon the Canadian, the whole 
Witchita nation is concentrated at this place ; their numbers 
do not exceed five hundred souls. They have, during the 
early settlement of Texas, given more trouble to the people 
upon the northern borders of that State than any other Indians. 
They have no regard for truth, will steal, and are wholly un- 
worthy of the least confidence, and their vicious propensities 
are only kept in check now from fear. 

s Living, as they do, between the white settlements and the 
prairie tribes, they are at the mercy of both ; they seem to be 
conscious of this fact, and express a desire to be on terms of 
friendship with all their neighbors. At my urgent request 
they presented us with several bushels of green corn this 
evening, which was very acceptable, as we had seen no vege- 
tables for several months. 

The Wacos live about a mile above the Witchitas, in a vil- 
lage constructed precisely like the other. There are twenty 
lodges in this village, and about two hundred souls. Their 
habits and customs are similar to the Witchitas, with whom 
they frequently intermarry, and are upon the best and most 
friendly terms. 

Both of these tribes subsist for a great portion of the year 
upon buffalo and deer, and wear the buffalo robes like the 
Comanches. They also use the bow and arrow for killing 
game ; sume of them, however, are provided with rifles, and 
are good shots. They have a large stock of horses and mules, 
many of which are the small Spanish breed with the Mexican 
brand upon them, and have probably been obtained from the 
prairie tribes ; while others are large, well formed animals, 



MEXICAN PRISONERS. 85 

and have undoubtedly been stolen from the border white set- 
tlers. 

We learned from the Witchitas, much to our surprise, that 
a report had been made to the commanding officer at Fort 
Arbuckle, by a Keechi Indian, to the effect that our whole 
party had been overpowered and massacred by the Coman- 
ches near the head of Red river. This information must have 
originated with the Comanches or Kiowas, as they are the 
only tribes inhabiting the country about the sources of the 
river ; neither the Keechies nor the Witchitas ever venture as 
far out into the plains as we have been. 

The account given by the Indian was so circumstantial and 
minute in every particular, showing a perfect knowledge of all 
our movements, with our numbers and equipment, that the 
information was evidently communicated by persons who 
were near us at the time, and observing our movements. This 
accounts for the fact of their avoiding us upon all occasions, 
although we saw them several times, as has been observed, 
and frequently passed their camps that had been abandoned 
but a short time, yet they never came to us or communicated 
with us. They probably regarded us as out upon a hostile ex- 
pedition, going into their country to chastise them for their de- 
predations, and may have supposed that the report of our having 
been massacred would deter other parties from following us. 

The old chief of the Witchitas (To-se-quash) informed us that 
Pah-hah-en-ka's band of the " Middle Comanches," in conse- 
quence of some of their people having been killed near one of 
the military posts in Texas, were much exasperated, and had 
burnt up the testimonials of good character given to them by 
United States authorities. They had always before preserved 
these papers with great care, and manifested much pride and 
satisfaction in exhibiting them to strangers. To-se-quash says 
they are now "very mad," and will fight us whenever they 
meet us. 

July 23. — As it rained during the night, and still continues, 
we did not move forward to-day. D uring the morning I sent 
for the chiefs of the two villages, for the purpose of endeavor- 
ing to persuade them to surrender to me two Mexican priso- 
ers in their possession : one a man about forty years of age, 
and the other a boy of fifteen. The man stated that he had 
been with the Witchitas since he was a child, and he was not 
now disposed to leave them ; that he had become as great a 
rascal as any of the Indians, (which I gave full credence to,) 
and should not feel at home anywhere else. 



<5b LEAVE WITCHITA VILLAGE. 

It appeared, however, that the boy had only been with them 
a few months. He states that he was kidnapped by the Kio- 
ways from his home near Chihuahua; that in consequence of 
their brutal treatment he escaped, and made his way to the 
Witchita mountains, where a Witchita hunter found him in 
nearly a famished state, and brought him to this place. He 
says he has been kindly treated by the Witchitas, bat is anx- 
ious to leave them and go with us. He appears to be very 
intelligent, and reads and writes in his own language. 

In a talk with the chiefs, I told them that the American 
people were now on terms of friendship with the Mexicans, 
and in a treaty we had obligated ourselves to return to them 
all prisoners in the hands of Indians in our territory, and to 
prevent further depredations being committed upon them ; that 
the principal chief of the whites (the President) would not re- 
gard any tribe of Indians as friends who acted in violation of 
this treaty ; that he confidently hoped and expected all the 
tribes who were friendly to our people would comply strictly 
with the requirements of the treaty, and give up all prisoners 
in their possession. I then requested them to release to me 
the boy, and told them if they did this I should make them 
some presents of articles that had been sent out by the Presi- 
dent for such of his red children as were his friends. They 
hesitated for a long time, stating that the boy belonged to a 
Waco, and he loved him so much that it was doubtful if he 
could be persuaded to part with him. Whereupon I told them 
that if they released the boy quietly, I should reward them ; 
but otherwise I had determined to take him from them by 
force, and if compelled to resort to this course, should give 
them nothing in return. This appeared to have the desired 
effect, and they said if I would make the family into which he 
bad been adopted a few presents, in addition to what I had 
promised them, they would release him. I accordingly dis- 
tributed the presents, and took possession of the boy. Upon 
turning him over to us they divested him of the few rags of 
covering that hung about his person, and reluctantly gave him 
to us, and he makes his exit from the Witchita nation in the 
same costume in which he entered the world. We soon had 
him comfortably clothed, and he is much delighted with the 
change. Captain McClellan will take him to San Antonio, 
from which place he will communicate with his relatives. 

July 24. — We left the Witchita village at 4 o'clock this 
morning, and intended to have followed the trail which the 
Indians travel to Fort Arbuckle, but soon discovered that it 



KICKAPOOS. 8 / 

crossed numerous brooks running through deep gullies impass- 
able for wagons, which made it necessary for us to turn south 
towards the dividing ridge between Rush creek and Wild 
Horse creek. We followed this ridge for seven miles, and 
encamped upon a small affluent of Wild Horse creek. In 
our march to-day we passed over an elevated, waving coun- 
try, interspersed with groves of oak. Upon each side of the 
dividing ridge are numerous small spring branches, flowing 
off to the right and left, and upon these there is an abundance 
of good timber, with soil of the best quality. We have passed 
the range of the grama grass, but still find the mezquite and 
other varieties of wild grasses, upon which our animals con- 
tinue to thrive, and keep in excellent condition. After we had 
proceeded some ten miles upon our march this morning, we 
discovered that our friends the Witchitas had, in the charac- 
teristic style of their hospitality, abstracted from one of our 
wagons several articles which they probaby supposed would 
be more useful to them than to us. Unfortunately, we were 
too far from the village to admit of going back and making 
them restore the articles. Our Spanish boy states that before 
he left, they advised him to seize the first opportunity that 
should offer to steal one of our horses, and make his escape to 
them. 

July 25. — Our wagons were packed, and we were in mo- 
tion at about 3 o'clock this morning, in a course nearly due 
east, down the right bank of Wild Horse creek for eight miles, 
when we entered the Cross-Timbers upon the ridge dividing 
this stream from Mud creek (an affluent of Red river, which 
puts in above the Washita.) Our encampment this evening 
is upon the border of a ravine in the timber, where we find 
good water and grass. 

In our march to-day, we have passed the heads of several 
branches running into Wild Horse, Beaver, Rush, and Mud 
creeks, upon all of which there is an exuberant vegetation, de- 
noting a fertile soil. The timber is abundant, and of good 
quality, and the water, issuing from springs, is perennial. I 
have passed through the Cross-Timbers at five different points 
before this, and have always found them similar in character 
and composition. 

Some Kickapoo hunters came into camp this evening, and 
we could not but remark the striking contrast between them 
and the Witchitas. They were fine-looking, well-dressed 
young men, with open, frank, and intelligent countenances, 
and seem to scorn the idea of begging ; while the others, as 



Ob REACH FORT ARBUCKLE < 

has been observed, are incessantly begging every article they 
see, and do not possess the slightest gratitude for favors re- 
ceived. 

July 26. — At daylight this morning we resumed our march 
through the Cross-Timbers, keeping the dividing ridge for 
two miles, when we turned to the left, and passed down near 
Wild Horse creek ; but we found small streams, with abrupt 
banks, crossing our course so frequently, that we had much 
difficulty in making progress. We, however, by hard labor 
in digging down banks and cutting through dense thickets, suc- 
ceeded in making eight miles, and encamped upon a small 
spring branch in the Cross-Timbers. A short distance before 
we reached our present position we fell into an old Indian 
trail, where some wagons had passed several years before. 
We noticed where several small trees had been cut, and where 
the bark had been scraped off from others by the ends of the 
axles as they passed along. 

July 27. — As soon as it was sufficiently light to enable us 
to see the trail this morning, we started on, keeping the old 
wagon trace through the timber for eight miles, when it led 
us into a road I had made the last season, between Fort Ar- 
buckle and Fort Belknap, at a point fourteen miles from the 
former post. As soon as the men came in sight of this, they 
gave a prolonged and simultaneous shout of joy ; it seemed 
to them like greeting an old familiar acquaintance : it was the 
first place they had recognised in several months, and it 
brought them near home. 

The axes and spades were laid by in the wagons, as our 
labors in road-making terminate here ; and I have no doubt 
the command are heartily rejoiced upon the occasion, as their 
duty since we left the Witchita mountains has been very la- 
borious. Two miles after striking the road we emerged from 
the Cross-Timbers, and passing over a range of low moun- 
tains lying south of Wild Horse Creek valley, encamped nine 
miles from Fort Arbuckle. 

July 28. — At one o'clock this morning we were upon the 
road again, and at daylight marched into Fort Arbuckle, 
where we found our friends much astonished and delighted at 
our sudden appearance among them, when they had supposed 
us all massacred by the Comanches. We are much indebted 
to the kind hospitality of the officers stationed here for the 
generous supply of vegetables with which they furnished our 
entire command during our stay with them. After an exclu- 
sive diet of meat and bread for several months, we could not 



SAFE RETURN OF THE PARTY. 89 

have had a more welcome present than the fine fresh vegeta- 
bles which their gardens afforded. 

I shall remain here for two or three days to dispose of the 
stores on our hands, recruit our animals, and get the company 
in readiness to return to its station at Fort Belknap, under 
charge of Lieutenant Updegraff. 

I feel a sincere regret at parting with the company, as the 
uniform good conduct of the men during the entire march of 
about a thousand miles merits my most sincere and heartfelt 
approbation. I have seldom had occasion even to reprimand 
one of them. All have performed the arduous duties assigned 
them with the utmost alacrity and good will ; and when (as 
was sometimes the case) we were obliged to make long- 
marches, and drink the most disgusting water for several days 
together, instead of murmuring and making complaints, they 
were cheerful and in good spirits. I owe them, as well as 
the officers and gentlemen who were with me, my most hearty 
thanks for their cordial co-operation with me in all the duties 
assigned to the expedition. It is probably in a great measure 
owing to this harmonious action on the part of all persons at- 
tached to the expedition that it has resulted so fortunately. 

We have lost no men by death, and, with the exception of the 
two cases of scurvy, there has been no sickness of consequence. 
And instead of any of our animals dying or straying away, 
we have had the especial good fortune of adding three horses, 
which we found upon the plains, to the number we received 
at the commencement of the march. 

The animals, and particularly the oxen, many of which 
were so poor when they left Preston as to be considered al- 
most useless, have all returned in fine condition, and are now 
much better capable of performing service than when they 
came into our hands. 



90 PROMINENT FEATURES OF RED RIVER. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Prominent features of Red river — Floods — Chain of lakes — Cross-timbers — 
Arable lands — Establishment of a military post upon Red river recommended 
— Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing- to Mexico — Wagon-route from 
Fort Belknap to Santa Fe — Navigation of Red river — Erroneous opinions in 
regard to Red river — Extensive gypsum range — El Llano Estacado. 

In a comprehensive review of the physical characteristics 
of the particular section of Red river which is comprised 
within the limits of the district assigned to the attention of the 
expedition, it will not perhaps be considered irrelevant to 
make a few general observations upon the more prominent 
features of the country bordering upon this stream, from its 
confluence with the Mississippi to its sources. It will be ob- 
served, by reference to a map of the country embracing the 
basin of this river, that in ascending from the mouth, its general 
direction as high as Fulton, Arkansas, is nearly north and 
south ; that here it suddenly changes its course and maintains 
a direction almost due east and west to its sources. One of 
the first peculiarities which strikes the mind on a survey of 
the topography of this extensive district of country, is the 
general uniformity of its surface : with the exception of the 
Witchita range no extensive chains of lofty mountains diversi- 
ty the perspective, and but few elevated hills rise up to relieve 
the monotony of the prospect. Another distinguishing feature 
of this river is, that the country on its upper waters differs in 
every respect from that in the vicinity of its mouth. The val- 
ley is found to comprise two great geographical sections, each 
having physical characteristics entirely distinct from the other. 
The main branch of the river, from the point where it de- 
bouches out of the Staked Plain, flows through an arid prairie 
country almost entirely destitute of trees, over a broad bed of 
light and shifting sands, for a distance, measured upon its 
sinuosities, of some five hundred miles. This country for the 
most part, is subject to periodical seasons of drought, which 
preclude the possibility of cultivation except by means of arti- 
ficial irrigation. It then enters a country covered with forest- 
trees of gigantic dimensions, growing upon an alluvial soil of 



SOURCES OF RED RIVER. 91 

the most pre-eminent fertility, which sustains a very diversi- 
fied sylva, and affords to the planter the most bountiful returns 
of all the products suited to this latitude. On entering this 
section of the river we find that the borders contract, and the 
water, for a great portion of the year, washes both banks, at 
a high stage, carrying away the loose alluvium from one side 
and depositing it upon the other in such a manner as to pro- 
duce constant changes in the channel and to render the naviga- 
tion difficult. This character prevails through the remainder 
of its course to the Delta of the Mississippi, and throughout 
this section it is subject to heavy inundations, which often flood 
the bottoms to such a degree as to produce very serious con- 
sequences to the planters, destroying their crops, and, upon sub- 
siding, occasionally leaving a deposite of white sand over the 
surface, rendering it thenceforth entirely barren and worthless. 

Below the great raft a chain of lakes continues to skirt the 
river for more than a hundred miles : these are supposed to 
have been formed in the ancient channels and low grounds of 
former streams, whose discharge had gradually been obstruct- 
ed by an embankment formed of the sedimentary matter 
brought down the river from above. 

These lakes are from five to fifty miles in length, from a 
quarter to three miles wide, and are filled and emptied alter- 
nately as the floods in Red river rise and fall ; they serve as 
reservoirs, which in the inundations of the banks of the river 
receive a great quantity of water, and, as it subsides, empty 
their contents gradually, thereby tending to impede the rapid 
discharge of the floods upon the Delta. Like all rivers of 
great length which drain a large extent of country, Red river 
is subjected to periodical seasons of high and low water. The 
floods occur at very uniform epochs, but the quantity and 
elevation of the water, as well as its continuance at a high 
stage, vary constantly. 

During the winter the water often remains high for several 
months, but the heavy rise which has almost invariably been 
observed during the month of June, often subsides in a very 
few days. 

The geographical position of the sources of Red river being 
in latitude 34° 42', and longitude 103° 7 10", and its conflu- 
ence with the Mississippi in latitude about 31° and longitude 
91° 50', it extends over three and a half degrees of latitude 
and eleven degrees of longitude. The barometrical elevation 
of its sources above the sea is twenty-four hundred and fifty 
feet. The estimated distance by the meanderings of the 



92 EXTENT OF ARABLE LAND. 

stream frorn the mouth to Preston, Texas, is sixteen hundred 
miles, and from this point to the sources of the main branch 
five hundred more, making the entire length of the river two 
thousand one hundred miles. 

On emerging from the timbered lands upon Red river into 
the great plains, we pass through a strip of forest called the 
Cross-Timbers. This extensive belt of woodland, which 
forms one of the most prominent and anomalous features upon 
the face of the country, is from five to thirty miles wide, 
and extends from the Arkansas river in a southwesterly direc- 
tion to the Brazos, some four hundred miles. 

At six different points where I have passed through it, I 
have found it characterized by the same peculiarities ; the 
trees, consisting principally of post-oak and black-jack, stand- 
ing at such intervals that wagons can without difficulty pass 
between them in any direction. The soil is thin, sandy, and 
poorly watered. This forms a boundary-line, dividing the 
country suited to agriculture from the great prairies, which, 
for the most part, are arid and destitute of timber. It seems 
to have been designed as a natural barrier between civilized 
man and the savage, as, upon the east side, there are nume- 
rous spring-brooks flowing over a highly prolific soil, with a 
superabundance of the best of timber, and an exuberant vege- 
tation, teeming with the delightful perfume of flowers of the 
most brilliant hues ; here and there interspersed with verdant 
glades and small prairies, affording inexhaustible grazing, and 
the most beautiful natural meadows that can be imagined ; 
while on the other side commence those barren and desolate 
wastes, where but few small streams greet the eye of the trav- 
eller, and these are soon swallowed up by the thirsty sands 
over which they flow. Here but little woodland is found, ex- 
cept on the immediate borders of the water-courses. 

From the point where Red river leaves the limbered lands, 
the entire face of the country, as if by the wand of a magician, 
suddenly changes its character. The bluffs now approach 
nearer the river, and the alluvial bottoms, which below here 
have been exceedingly rich and productive, contract, and do 
not support that dense and rank vegetation which character- 
izes the lower portion of the valley. The undergrowth of 
cane-brakes and vines disappears, and is no more seen 
throughout the entire extent of the valley. The lands adja- 
cent gradually rise, and exhibit broad and elevated swells of 
surface, with spacious valleys intervening, and the soil con- 
tinues to become more and more sterile as we ascend, until 



COMANCHES AND KIOWAYS. \)d 

we reach the 101st degree of longitude, when from this point, 
with few exceptions, there is no more arable land. 

Previous to my departure upon the expedition, I had been 
led to believe, from the representations of the Indians and 
others, that after passing Cache creek, no more good timber 
or land suited to cultivation would be met with upon the 
waters of Red river ; but in this (as will have been observed) 
I was greatly in error, as we found much good timber and 
fertile land above this point. 

The country drained by the numerous branches of Cache 
creek alone is very large, and possesses, in a remarkable de- 
gree, all the elements necessary for constituting a rich and 
productive agricultural district. 

Including the valleys embraced within the Witchita moun- 
tains, there are, upon a very moderate estimate, at least from 
seventy-five to eighty thousand acres of tillable lands upon the 
waters of this stream. In the valley of Otter creek there are 
also several thousand acres of rich alluvial lands, with timber 
in abundance ; and upon Elk, Sweetwater, and the other 
small affluents of the North Fork, much land is found which 
would rank with our government surveyors as "first rate" in 
quality. All these would make up an aggregate of at least 
one hundred and fifty thousand acres of land, upon which 
cotton, corn, and most other grains could be produced abun- 
dantly. 

Could they be persuaded to lay aside their wandering hab- 
its and cultivate the soil, the amount of land here alluded to 
would be more than sufficient to sustain all the natives inhab- 
iting this section of country ; and the luxuriant and nutritious 
grasses which everywhere abound throughout the entire ex- 
tent of the river basin, would furnish an inexhaustible amount 
of forage and grazing for their numerous animals. The win- 
ters here are mild, and it is seldom that the snow covers the 
ground more than a day or two at a time. There is a con- 
stant supply of good running-water upon all the minor tribu- 
taries to the North Fork, and sufficient woodland to supply 
farmers with fuel for a great number of years. 

The soil of the valley of the main trunk of the river, as 
well as upon the Salt Fork, is thin and sandy, with very little 
timber or palatable water ; and the country here possesses 
but few of the requisites essential to agriculture. 

The Comanches and Kioways resort in great numbers to 
the waters of the north fork of Red river, where they find for- 
age for their animals abundant during the winter months. 



94 NECESSITY OF A NEW POST. 

Vestiges of their camps were everywhere observed along the 
whole course of the valley, from the Witchita mountains to 
the sources ; and the numerous remains of the stumps of trees, 
which had been cut down by them at different periods, indi- 
cated that this had been a favorite resort for them during 
many years. In several places we found camps that had only 
been deserted but a few days, and some where the fires were 
still burning. From the great extent of surface upon which 
the grass was cropped at some of these camping-places, and 
from the multitude of tracks still remaining, we inferred that 
they were supplied with immense numbers of animals ; and 
they are undoubtedly attracted here by the superior quality 
of the grass, and the great abundance of cotton-wood which 
is found along the borders of the streams, upon the bark of 
which they fatten their favorite horses in the winter season. 

Should the government authorities ever have occasion to 
communicate with these Indians, I have no doubt that many 
of them can always be found during the autumn, winter, and 
spring months along this branch of Red river ; during the 
summer they leave and travel north in pursuit of the buffalo, 
generally ranging between the north fork of the Canadian and 
the Arkansas river. 

We observed but few places upon the main branch of the 
river where the Indians had made their encampments. We, 
however, saw trails where they are accustomed to travel, 
crossing this branch and leading south towards the Brazos ; 
indeed, a party with about fifty horses and mules had trav- 
elled along the bed of the Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no, through the 
gorge to the head of the river, but a short time previous to our 
passing. 

The military posts already established upon the southwes- 
tern borders of Texas, with the two occupied by the fifth in- 
fantry in the direction of the headwaters of the Brazos, un- 
doubtedly exercise a good influence over the southern Co- 
manches who frequent that section ; but there is a vast tract 
of country to the north of this, extending across Red river and 
the Canadian to the Arkansas, where there is no military post 
until reaching Fort Atkinson, upon the Santa Fe trace. Fort 
Arbuckle and Fort Scott are near the settlements, and they 
are now entirely out of the range of the prairie tribes. The 
northern and middle Comanches and the Kioways occupy this 
country, and go and come when and where they choose with- 
out the knowledge of any of our military authorities. These 
Indians probably commit more depredations upon the northern 



SITES FOR A MILITARY POST. 95 

provinces of Mexico than any others. In passing back and 
forth upon these forays, they were formerly in the habit of 
taking a route crossing the Brazos and Colorado rivers, in the 
vicinity of some of the military posts in Western Texas ; but 
since they have become acquainted with the localities of these 
posts, I have been informed by the Indians that they were so 
much harassed by the troops as to cause them to change their 
route ; and now they generally pass to the north and west, 
entirely around this chain of posts. 

It is a well known fact, that whenever depredations have 
been committed by the Indians along the western borders of 
Texas, the perpetrators have almost invariably come from the 
north and returned in that direction ; and when pursued, their 
trace has generally been found to lead towards Red river, in 
the direction of the western extremity of the Witchita chain 
of mountains. Such was the fact in the recent instances 
where animals were stolen from the posts upon the Brazos ; 
and I cannot but believe, if there had been a garrison at 
some point upon Red river in the vicinity of the mountains, 
that the stolen animals might in a majority of cases have been 
recovered, and the authors of the depredations detected. 
Heretofore the troops stationed upou the Brazos, when sent in 
pursuit of Indians who had stolen animals, have followed thern 
until their provisions were consumed, and have then been 
obliged to abandon the trail and turn back before coming near 
them ; whereas, if they had started out from a post upon Red 
river, they would probably have been enabled to carry provi- 
sions sufficient to have served them until they could have 
reached the encampments where the freebooters had left their 
families. 

A garrison established near the western extremity of the 
Witchita range of mountains would be in the heart of the 
Comanche country, and near the point where they cross Red 
river upon their marauding expeditions into Texas and Mexico. 

The military authorities stationed here would have an op- 
portunity of becoming acquainted with the chiefs, and with 
the character and habits of the Indians frequenting this section, 
and would have greater facilities for gaining their confidence 
and removing the unfavorable impression which they have 
heretofore entertained towards Americans. Believing that 
our government contemplates taking their hunting-grounds 
from them, they have always been suspicious of the motives 
of the whites who have visited their country ; so much so, 
that upon one occasion they massacred a party of twenty men 



96 WAGON-TRACE TO SANTA FE. 

who attempted to survey a tract of land in Western Texas. 
They desire, therefore, to remain as far as possible away from 
the white settlements. 

_ If troops were quartered in their country anywhere in the 
vicinity of the point I have mentioned, the Indians would by 
degrees become familiarized to their presence, and in time 
learn that instead of doing them injustice, the policy of our 
government towards them is such as would ultimately con- 
duce to their welfare and prosperity. 

At almost any point throughout the Witchita mountains, all 
the requisites for building and sustaining a military post are 
found in great profusion. The quality of the timber, soil, and 
water, are all far superior to that, near the posts upon the Bra- 
zos river ; and I firmly believe there is no more salubrious 
climate in the universe. 

In my humble judgment, in view of what has been said, a 
military post established in the vicinity of these mountains, 
and garrisoned by a force of sufficient strength to command 
the respect of the Indians, would add more to the efficiency 
of the army in checking their depredations than any other po- 
sition that is now occupied by the troops in Western Texas* 
This post would be about one hundred and forty miles distant 
from Fort Arbuckle ; two hundred miles from Fort Washita ; 
and one hundred and twenty from Fort Belknap ; and being 
near Red river, (which it is believed will prove navigable, at 
a good stage of water, nearly as high as this point,) the 
troops could probably be furnished with supplies at a lower 
rate than at any of the military posts in this part of the coun- 
try equi-distant from the seacoast. 

Should it become necessary to march troops or transport 
supplies between the military posts upon the headwaters of 
the Brazos and Santa Fe. a better route cannot be desired for 
wagons than the one we have followed from Fort Belknap to 
the confluence of Cache creek, continuing up the north fork of 
Red river to near its source in the Staked Plain, and thence 
across in a northwesterly direction to the Canadian river, 
upon the south bank of which will be found a distinctly- 
marked wagon-trace, travelled by California emigrants in the 
summer of 1849, which leads in a very direct course, over 
firm and smooth ground, to Santa Fe. There is a bountiful 
supply of all that is essential to the comfort of the traveller 
and his animals upon this route ; and good wood, water, and 
grass, are found so abundantly along the entire distance, 
that he need not make a single encampment without them 



HEAD OF NAVIGATION. 97 

all. The distance, measured along the route over which we 
travelled, from Fort Belknap to the mouth of Cache creek, is 
one hundred and twenty miles ; from this point to the head of 
the north fork of Red river is two hundred and thirty-seven 
miles ; to the Canadian, twenty-five miles ; thence to Santa 
Fe, two hundred and ninety-five miles ; making the aggregate 
distance between the termini six hundred and seventy-seven 
miles. These distances, as far as the Canadian, are measured 
upon the route over which we travelled in our explorations ; 
and although its general course is reasonably direct, it is in 
some places circuitous, and could probably be shortened so 
as to reduce the distance to about six hundred and forty 
miles. The navigation of Red river with steamers of light 
draught is practicable at all times to Shreveport ; and about 
four months of the year they have ascended without difficulty 
to Fort Towson. 

During the past season, at a time when the river was at a 
low stage, a steamer drawing three and a half feet of water 
had no difficulty in ascending as high as Preston, near the 
confluence of the Washita. Several boats had previously 
reached this point upon the river ; but as there are but few 
settlements above here, there has as yet been no inducements 
held out for boats to attempt the navigation of the river any 
higher. I am confident, however, from what I have seen ot 
Upper Red river, that at a medium stage there will be suffi- 
cient depth of water for small steamers, such as ply upon 
some of the tributaries to the Mississippi, to ascend the river 
as high as where the two principal branches unite, (about 
fifty miles above the mouth of Cache creek.) As an evidence 
of this, on our outward march, at a time when the river was 
at a high stage, I had occasion for crossing frequently, but 
could find no place below the point mentioned where the 
water in the channel was of less depth than five feet ; indeed, 
I do not think as many obstructions will be found above Pres- 
ton as below, for the reason that there is but little woodland 
bordering upon the upper portion of the river, and conse- 
quently but few of those formidable obstacles called snags. 

At a low stage the water in the river becomes very shallow, 
and can then be forded at any point. But during high water, 
the quicksands in the bed of the stream become loose and un- 
stable, and make it hazardous to attempt a passage with 
animals. It was observed throughout that portion of the 
valley of the river which came under our observation, that it 
was bordered upon each side by three distinct terraces or 
7 



98 WATER. 

benches running parallel with the course of the stream. The 
first of these is from three to six feet high, from fifty to two 
hundred feet wide, and in places subject to overflow. The 
second, which is from ten to twenty feet above the first, is 
from two to five hundred feet wide, and is never submerged. 
The third varies from fifty to three hundred feet in elevation 
above the second, and forms the elevated line of bluffs that 
terminate the prairie lands adjacent to the valley. 

In many places between the upper extremity of the Wit- 
chita mountains and the sources of the river, we found con- 
tinuous chains of sand-hills, from twenty to fifty feet high, 
bordering the valley, and denuded of all herbage save a few 
plum-bushes and grape-vines. Although there is some good 
soil upon the small affluents to the main river, the country 
generally, immediately bordering it, is barren and sandy. 

Several erroneous opinions have for many years been en- 
tertained in regard to the country upon the headwaters of 
Red river. For instance, it has generally been supposed, 
from the circumstance of a heavy rise occurring in the river 
during the month of June, at a time when there is generally 
no rain in the settlements, and during the dry season upon 
the plains, that the sources of the river would be found in 
lofty mountain ranges, where the melting snows would ac- 
count for the great amount of water passing through the chan- 
nel at the season mentioned. But such is not the fact, as all 
the principal branches above Cache creek have their origin 
in the eastern borders of the table-lands of New Mexico, 
where there are no mountains. We, however, observed fre- 
quent copious rains in the vicinity of the Wichita mountains 
during the season of the June flood ; and I am of the opinion 
that here is the source whence much of the water is derived. 

As the water in the river has a very bitter and disagreeable 
taste, it has been conjectured that it passed in its course 
through extensive salt plains ; but this I also found to be an 
error. We saw no deposite of chloride of sodium in the vicin- 
ity of the river ; the peculiar taste being communicated by 
ingredients that it receives in flowing for a hundred miles 
over a gypsum formation. An analysis of this water, under 
the direction of Dr. Clark of Amherst College, gives the fol- 
lowing results, from which it will be seen that the per-centage 
of salt is small :* 

*I have understood, since our return, that the Indians have recently dis- 
covered a deposite of salt (chloride of sodium) about three miles to the south 
of our return route, near the western extremity of the Witchita mountains. 



GYPSUM BEDS. 99 

Weight of water in fluid ounces ------ 4. 

Weight of water in fluid grames ------ 127. 

Weight of chlorine present -------- .051 

Weight of lime ----------- .033 

Weight of sulphuric acid -------- .095 

Sulphates of soda and magnesia ------ .168 

Regarding the lime as a sulphate, and the residue of sul- 
phuric acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorine as 
united with the sodium, we have the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime -------- .080 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia ------ .073 

Weight of chloride of sodium ------ .084 

Weight of the whole --------- .237 

Per-centage of matter in solution ------ 19 

This gypsum range forms an immense belt, which extends 
across the country for some four or five hundred miles. CoL 
Long speaks of seeing it upon the Arkansas ; and I have my- 
self passed through it at lour other different points south of 
this, embracing a range of some three hundred miles. It is 
regarded by Dr. Hitchcock as the most extensive deposit of 
this mineral in North America. I have everywhere found it 
characterized by the same peculiarities, with the water issuing 
from it invariably bitter and unpalatable. 

The Arkansas, Canadian, Brazos, Colorado, and Pecos rivers. 
pass through the formation, and a similar taste is imparted to 
the waters of all. Several of these also have their sources in 
the same elevated table-lands as Red river, and where they 
make their exit from this plateau their beds are confined to 
vast sluices or cartons, the sides of which rise very abruptly 
to an enormous height above the surface of the water. The 
foaren mesa, in which these streams take their rise, extends 
from the Canadian river, in a southerly course, to near the 
confluence of the Pecos with the Rio Grande, some four hun- 
dred miles, between the 32d and 37th parallels of north lati- 
tude. It is in places nearly two hundred miles in width, and 
is embraced within the 101st and 104th meridians of west 
longitude. The approximate elevation of this plain above 

the sea, as determined with the barometer, is two thousand 
four hundred and fifty feet. It is much elevated above the 
surrounding country, ver}^ smooth and level, and spreads out 



100 LLANO ESTACADO. 

in every direction as far as the eye can penetrate, without a 
tree, shrub, or any other herbage to intercept the vision. The 
traveller, in passing over it, sees nothing but one vast, dreary, 
and monotonous waste of barren solitude. It is an ocean of 
desert prairie, where the voice of man is seldom heard, and 
where no living being permanently resides. The almost total 
absence of water causes all animals to shun it : even the In- 
dians do not venture to cross it except at two or three points, 
where they find a few small ponds of water. I was told in 
New Mexico that, many years since, the Mexicans marked 
out a route with stakes across this plain, where they found 
water ; and hence the name by which it is known throughout 
Mexico, of " El Llano Eslacado," or the " Staked Plain." 



INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY. 101 



CHAPTER X. 

Indians of the country — Habits of the Comanches and Kioways — Similarity be- 
tween them and the Arabs and Tartars — Predatory excursions into Mexico — 
War Implements — Incredulity regarding the customs of the Whites — Method 
of saluting Strangers — Degraded condition of the Women — Aversion to ar- 
dent spirits — Prairie Indians contrasted with Indians of the Eastern States — 
Buffaloes — Probable condition of the Indians upon the extermination of the 
Buffaloes — Pernicious influences of Traders — Superstitions of the Natives, 

The country over which we passed is frequented by seve- 
ral tribes of Indians, who follow the buffalo, and subsist al- 
most exclusively upon the uncertain products of the chase. 
The Witchitas, Wacos, Kechies, and Quapaws, all resort to 
the country about the Witchita mountains, where a few years 
since they had their thatched villages and corn-fields, but 
they have recently removed near the white settlements. The 
Witchitas and Wacos, as before stated, are now living upon 
Rush creek, while the Kechies and Quapaws are upon Chou- 
teau's creek, an affluent of the Canadian. The Witchitas and 
Kechies each number about one hundred warriors ; the Wacos 
about eighty ; and the Quapaws only about twenty-five. 
They all use the horse in their hunting and war expeditions, 
and are possessed of a good supply of these animals. The 
history of the Quapaws, a minute remnant of what was once 
a large and powerful nation of Indians, called the "Arkan- 
sas," but now only numbering a very few lodges of miserable 
half-starved beggars, is truly melancholy. Father Charle- 
voix, in his " Historical Journal of a Voyage down the Mis- 
sissippi," speaks of visiting them, and found them at that 
time very numerous and warlike. He says of them : " The 
Arkansas, or Quapaws, are reckoned to be the tallest and 
best-shaped of all the savages of this continent, and they are 
called, by way of distinction, 'the fine men.'" He describes 
them as occupying at the time of his visit four villages, one of 
which was upon the Mississippi, a short distance above the 
mouth of the Arkansas. They were, according to him, com- 
posed of the confederated remnants of several ruined nations. 

In the time of Du Pratz these Indians had all moved up the 



102 SALUBRITY OF THE PLAINS. 

Arkansas, and were living about twelve miles from the mouth 
of White river : the}^ were then quite numerous, and he com- 
pliments them by saying that they were no less distinguished 
as warriors than hunters, and that they were the first nation 
that succeeded in conquering the warlike and numerous 
Chickasaws. It is related that upon one occasion they en- 
countered the Chickasaws, who, in consequence of having no 
powder, considered it most prudent to make a precipitate re- 
treat ; whereupon the Quapaw chief, understanding the cause, 
determined they should be placed on an equality, and ordered 
all his warriors to empty their powder-horns into a blanket, 
and making an equal division of the powder, he gave one-half 
to his enemies. The battle then commenced, and in a short 
time terminated with a signal defeat of the Chickasaws, who 
retreated with a loss of ten killed and five prisoners, while the 
Quapaws only lost one man. They were also distinguished 
for their friendship to the early settlers along the Arkansas 
river, and it is much to be deplored that this once numerous 
and valorous nation is so fast approaching annihilation. The 
two most numerous and powerful tribes of Indians frequent- 
ing the country upon Upper Red river are the Comanches 
and Kioways ; the former range from the Witchita mountains 
to the sources of the river, while the latter occasionally visit 
the headwaters, but seldom come as far down as the moun- 
tains. These tribes have similar habits, but speak different 
languages. The most numerous and warlike nation is that of 
the Comanches, who are separated into three distinct local 
grand divisions, namely ; the Northern, Middle, and Southern; 
each of these is subdivided into several bands, commanded by 
separate chiefs. 

The Northern and Middle Comanches subsist almost entire- 
ly upon the flesh of the buffalo ; they are known among the 
other Indians as " buffalo-eaters," and are generally found at 
their heels, migrating with them from place to place upon 
those vast and inhospitable plains of the West, the greater 
portion of which are incapable of cultivation, and seem des- 
tined in the future, as in the past, to be the abode of the wan- 
dering savage, possessing as they do, so few attractions to 
civilized man. This vast district, however, exhibits one char- 
acteristic which compensates for many of its asperities : per- 
haps no part of the habitable globe is more favorable to 
human existence, so far as the atmosphere is concerned, than 
this. Free from marshes, stagnant water, great bodies of 
timber, and all other sources of poisonous malaria, and open 



SKILL IN HORSEMANSHIP. 103 

to every wind that blows, this immense grassy expanse is 
purged from impurities of every kind, and the air imparts a 
force and vigor to the body and mind which repays the occu- 
pant in a great measure for his deprivations. Nature, which 
almost everywhere exhibits some compensation to man for 
great hardships, has here conferred upon him health, the first 
and best of her gifts. It is a fact worthy of remark, that man 
in whatever situation he may be placed, is influenced in his 
modes of existence, his physical and moral condition, by the 
natural resources of climate, soil, and other circumstances 
around him, over the operations of which he has no control. 
Fortunately, such is the flexibility of his nature that he soon 
learns to adapt himself to the hardest and most untoward cir- 
cumstances, and indeed, ultimately becomes not only recon- 
ciled to his lot, but persuades himself that his condition is far 
preferable to that of most others. 

The example of our western-border settlers is illustrative of 
this fact, as they continue to remove farther and farther west 
as the settlements encroach upon them, preferring a life of 
dangerous adventure and solitude to personal security and 
the comforts and enjoyments of society ; and what was at first 
necessity to them becomes in time a source of excitement and 
pleasure. 

The nomadic Indian of the prairies demonstrates the posi- 
tion still more forcibly: free as the boundless plains over 
which he roams, he neither knows nor wants any luxuries 
beyond what he finds in the buffalo or the deer around him. 
These serve him with food, clothing, and a covering for his 
lodge, and he sighs not for the titles and distinctions which 
occupy the thoughts and engage the energies of civilized man. 
His only ambition consists in being able to cope successfully 
with his enemy in war, and in managing his steed with unfail- 
ing adroitness. He is in the saddle from boyhood to old age, 
and his favorite horse is his constant companion. It is when 
mounted that the Comanche exhibits himself to the best ad- 
vantage: here he is at home, and his skill in various manoeu- 
vres which he makes available in battle — such as throwing 
himself entirely upon one side of his horse, and discharging 
his arrows with great rapidity towards the opposite side from 
beneath the animal's neck while he is at full speed — is truly 
astonishing.^ Many of the women are equally expert, as eques- 
trians, with the men. They ride upon the same saddles and 
in the same manner, with a leg upon each side of the horse. 
As an example of their skill in horsemanship, two young wo- 



104 ATTACHMENT TO THEIR HORSES 

men of one of the bands of the Northern Comanches, while we 
were encamped near them, upon seeing some antelopes at a 
distance from their camp, mounted horses, and, with lassos in 
their hands, set off at full speed in pursuit of this fleetest in- 
habitant of the plains. After pursuing them for some distance, 
and taking all the advantages which their circuitous course 
permitted, they finally came near them, and, throwing the 
lasso with unerring precision, secured each animal and brought 
it back in triumph to the camp. Every warrior has his war- 
horse, which is the fleetest that can be obtained, and he prizes 
him more highly than anything else in his possession, and it is 
seldom that he can be induced to part with him at any price. 
He never mounts him except when going into battle, the buf- 
falo chase, or upon state occasions. On his return from an 
excursion he is met at the door of his lodge by one of his 
wives, who takes his horse and attends to its wants with the 
utmost care. The prairie warrior performs no menial labor ; 
his only occupation is in war and the chase. His wives, who 
are but little dearer to him than his horse, perform all the 
drudgery. He follows the chase, he smokes his pipe, he eats 
and sleeps ; and thus he passes his time, and in his own esti- 
mation he is the most lordly and independent sovereign in the 
universe. Such are some of the characteristics of the prairie 
Indians ; and I cannot dismiss the subject without remarking 
that, in addition to the physical similitude between the deserts 
of Arabia, the steppes of Central Asia, and the prairie mesas 
of our own country, a very striking resemblance is also ob- 
served in the habits and customs of the respective inhabitants. 
The Arabs of the desert, the Tartar tribes, and the aboriginal 
occupants of the prairies, are alike wanderers, having no per- 
manent abiding-places, transporting their lodges wherever 
they go, and where these are pitched there are their homes. 
They permit no authorities to control them but such as re- 
ceive the unanimous sanction of the masses, and the rule of 
their leaders is guided by the counsels of their old men, who 
in many cases allay dissensions and curb the impetuosity of 
ambitious young warriors, whose thirst for fame would often 
involve the nation in protracted wars. Thus their govern- 
ment is patriarchal, guided by mature and fraternal counsels. 
They are insensible to the wants and comforts of civilization ; 
they know neither poverty nor riches, vice nor virtue, and are 
alike exempt from the deplorable vicissitudes of fortune. 
Theirs is a happy state of equality, which knows not the per- 
plexities of ambition nor the crimes of avarice. They never 



GOVERNMENT. 105 

cultivate the soil, but subsist altogether upon game and what 
they can steal. They are alike the most expert horsemen in 
the world, and possess the same fond attachment for the ani- 
mal. I once made an effort to purchase a favorite horse from 
a chief of one of the bands of the Southern Comanches, (Se- 
na-co,) and offered him a large price, but he could not be 
persuaded to part with him. He said the animal was one of 
the fleetest in their possession, and if he were to sell him it 
would prove a calamity to his whole band, as it often required 
all the speed of this animal to insure success in the buffalo 
chase ; that his loss would be felt by all his people, and he 
would be regarded as very foolish; moreover, he said, (pat- 
ting his favorite on the neck,) " I love him very much." 

The only property of these people, with the exception of a 
few articles belonging to their domestic economy, consists en- 
tirely in horses and mules, of which they possess great num- 
bers. These are mostly pillaged from the Mexicans, as is 
evident from the brand which is found upon them. The most 
successful horse-thieves among them own from fifty to two 
hundred animals. 

In their political and domestic relations there is also a simi- 
larity to the Old World nomads. They are governed by a 
chief, the tenure of whose office is hereditary, so long as his 
administration meets the approbation of his followers. He 
leads them to war, and presides at their deliberations in coun- 
cil ; but should he disgrace himself by any act of cowardice 
or mal-administration, they do not hesitate to depose him and 
place a more competent man in his stead. Their laws are 
such as are adapted to their peculiar situation, and are sanc- 
tioned by the voice of the people. Their execution is vested 
in the subordinate chiefs, or captains, as they are called, and 
they are promptly and rigidly enforced. In respect to the 
rights of property, their code is strictly Spartan. They are 
perhaps as arrant freebooters as can be found upon the face 
of the earth ; and they regard stealing from strangers as per- 
fectly legitimate and honorable, and that man who has been 
most successful in this is the most highly honored by his tribe ; 
indeed, a young man who has not made one or more of these 
expeditions into Mexico is held in but little repute. In evi- 
dence of this, I was told by an old chief of the Northern Co- 
manches, called Is-sa-keep, that he was the father of four 
sons, who he said were as fine young men as could be found ; 
that they were a great source of comfort to him in his old age, 



108 FORAYS OP THE INDIANS. 

and could steal more horses than any other young men in his 
band. 

As these forays are often attended with much toil and dan- 
ger, they are called " war expeditions." It not unfrequently 
happens that but six or eight young men set out upon one of 
these adventures, and the only outfit they require is a horse, 
with their war equipments, consisting of the bow and arrows, 
lance and shield, with occasionally a gun. Thus prepared, 
they set out upon a journey of a thousand miles or more, 
through a perfectly wild and desolate country, dependent for 
subsistence wholly upon such game as they may chance to 
find. They make their way to the northern provinces of 
Mexico, where they lie in wait near some hacienda until a 
favorable opportunity offers to sweep down upon a solitary 
herdsman, and, with the most terrific yells, drive before them 
all the animals they desire. Wo to the panic-stricken ranchero 
who fails to make a precipitate retreat, as they invariably kill 
such men as offer the slightest ^pediment to their operations, 
and take women and children prisoners, whom they ho]d in 
bondage of the most servile character. They are sometimes 
absent from their tribes two years or more before their success 
is sufficient to justify their returning with credit to them- 
selves. 

The use of the bow, which is the favorite arm and con- 
stant appendage of the prairie Indian, and which he makes 
use of exclusively in hunting the buffalo, is taught the boys 
at a very early age ; and by constant and careful practice, 
they acquire a degree of proficiency in the art that renders 
them, when grown up to manhood, formidable in war, as well 
as successful in the chase. Their bows are made of the tough 
and elastic wood of the "bois d'arc," or Osage orange (Ma- 
dura aurantiaca) strengthened and reinforced with the sinews 
of the deer wrapped firmly around them, and strung with a 
cord made of the same material. They are not more than 
one-half the length of the old English long-bow, which was 
said to have been sixteen hands' breadth in length. The ar- 
rows are twenty inches long, of flexible wood, with a trian- 
gular point of iron at one end, and two feathers, intersecting 
each other at right angles, at the opposite extremity. At 
short distances the bow, in the hands of the Indian, is effec- 
tive, and frequently throws the arrow entirely through the 
huge carcass of the buffalo. In using this instrument, the 
Indian warrior protects himself from the missiles of his enemy 
with a shield of circular form, covered with two thicknesses 



COMANCHE DRESS. 

of hard, undressed buffalo-hide, separated by a space of about 
an inch, which is stuffed with hair ; this is fastened to the left 
arm by two bands, in such a manner as not to interfere with 
the free use of the hand, and offers such resistance that a 
rifle-ball will not penetrate it unless it strikes perpendicular to 
tire surface. They also make use of a war-club, made by 
bending a withe around a hard stone of about two pounds 
weight, which has been previously prepared with a groove in 
which the withe fits, and is thereby prevented from slipping 
off. The handle is about fourteen inches long, and bound 
with buffalo-hide. 

— -The Comanche men are about the medium stature, with 
bright, copper-colored complexions and intelligent counte- 
nances, in many instances with aquiline noses, thin lips, black 
eyes and hair, with but little beard. They never cut the 
hair, but wear it of very great length, and ornament it upon 
state occasions with silver and beads. Their dress consists 
of leggins and moccasins, with a cloth wrapped around the 
loins. The body is generally naked above the middle, except 
when covered with the buffalo-robe, which is a constant ap- 
pendage to their wardrobe. y" The women are short, with 
crooked legs, and are obliged to crop their hair close to their 
heads. They wear, in addition to the leggins and moccasins, 
a skirt of dressed deer-skin. They also tattoo their faces and 
breasts, and are far from being as good looking as the men. 

Notwithstanding that these people are hospitable and kind 
to strangers, and apparently amiable in their dispositions, yet, 
when a warrior conceives himself injured, his thirst for re- 
venge knows no satiety. Grave and dignified in his deport- 
ment, and priding himself upon his coolness of temper and 
the control of his passions, yet, when once provoked, he, like 
the majority of his race, is implacable and unrelenting; an 
affront is laid up and cherished in his breast, and nothing can 
efface it from his mind until ample reparation has been made. 
He has no idea of forgiveness : the insult must be atoned for 
by blood. With many tribes, quarrels can often be settled by 
presents to the injured party; but with the Comanches, their 
law of equity is of such a character that no reconciliation can 
take place until the reproach is wiped out with the blood of 
their enemy.'! They make no use of money except for 
ornaments. Like other tribes, they are fond of decking them- 
selves with paint, beads, and feathers ; and the young warrior 
often spends more time at his toilet than the most conceited 
coxcomb that can be found in civilized life. Bright red and 



IUo IDEA OF THEIR OWN SUPERIORITY. 

blue are their favorite colors ; and vermilion is an important 
article in the stock of goods of one of their traders. This 
they always carry about their persons; and whenever they 
expect to meet strangers, they always (provided they have 
time) make their toilet with care, and paint their faces. Some 
few of their chiefs who have visited their Great Father at 
Washington, have returned strongly impressed with the nu- 
merical power and prosperity of the whites; but the great 
majority of them being entirely ignorant of everything thai 
relates to us, and the most of them having never even seen a 
white man, believe the Comanches to be the most powerful 
nation in existence ; and the relation of facts which conflict 
with this notion, by their own people, to the masses of the 
tribes at their prairie firesides, only subjects the narrator to 
ridicule, and he is set down as one whose brain has been 
turned by the necromancy of the pale-faces, and is thence- 
forth regarded as wholly unworthy of confidence. 

Having upon one occasion a Delaware and a Comanche 
with me in the capacity of guides, I was much diverted with 
a conversation that passed between them in my presence, and 
which was interpreted to me by the Delaware. It appeared 
that the latter had stated to the other the fact of the sphericity 
of the earth's surface. This idea being altogether new and 
incomprehensible to the Comanche, was received with much 
incredulity, and, after gazing a moment intently at the Dela- 
ware to ascertain if he were sincere, he asked if that person 
took him for a child, or if he looked like an idiot. The Dela- 
ware said no ; but that the white people, who knew all about 
these things, had ascertained such to be the fact; and added, 
that the world was not only round, but that it revolved in its 
orbit around the sun. The Comanche very indignantly replied, 
that any man of sense could, by looking off upon the prairie, 
see at a glance that the earth was perfectly level; and, more- 
over, that his grandfather had been west to the end of it, 
where the sun disappeared behind a vertical wall. The 
Delaware continued, in his simple but impressive manner, to 
describe to the Comanche the steam-engine, with other ob- 
jects of interest he had seen among the whites, all of which 
the Comanche regarded as the product of a fertile imagina- 
tion, expressly designed to deceive him; and the only reply 
that he deigned to make was an occasional exclamation in his 
own language, the interpretation of which the Delaware pro- 
nounced to be, " Hush, you fool!" I then endeavored to ex- 
plain to the Delaware the operation of the magnetic telegraph, 



EECEPTION OF STANGERS. 109 

and, in illustration of its practical utility, stated to him that a 
message could be sent a distance of one thousand miles, and 
an answer returned, in the short space of ten minutes' time. 
He seemed much interested in this, and listened attentively 
to my remarks, but made no comments until I requested him 
to explain it to the Comanche, when he said, "I don't think I 
tell him that, Captain ; for the truth is, I don't believe it my- 
self." 

The mode of life of the prairie tribes, owing to their un- 
settled and wandering habits, is such as to render their condi- 
tion one of constant danger and apprehension. The security 
of their numerous animals from the encroachments of their 
enemies, and their constant liability to attacks, make it imper- 
atively necessary for them to be at all times upon the alerts 
Their details for herdsmen are made with as much regularity 
as the guard-details at a military post; and even in times of 
the most profound peace, they guard their animals both night 
and day, while scouts are often patrolling upon the adjoining 
heights to give notice of the approach of strangers, when their 
animals are hurried to a place of security, and everything 
made ready for defence. The manner in which they salute 
a stranger is somewhat peculiar, as my own reception at one 
of their encampments will show. The chief at this encamp- 
ment was a very corpulent old man, with exceedingly scanty 
attire, who, immediately on our approach, declared himself a 
great friend of the Americans, and persisted in giving me 
evidence of his sincerity by an embrace, which, to please 
him, I forced myself to submit to, although it was far from 
agreeable to my own feelings. Seizing me in his brawny 
arms while we were yet in the saddle, and laying his greasy 
head upon my shoulder, he inflicted upon me a most bruin- 
like squeeze, which I endured with a degree of patient forti- 
tude worthy of the occasion; and I was consoling myself 
upon the completion of the salutation, when the savage 
again seized me in his arms, and I was doomed to another 
similar torture, with his head on my other shoulder, while at 
the same time he rubbed his greasy face against mine in the 
most affectionate manner; all of which proceeding, he gave 
me to understand, was to be regarded as a most distinguished 
and signal mark of affection for the American people in gen- 
eral, whom, as he expressed it, he loved so much that it almost 
broke his heart; and in particular for myself, who, as their 
representative, can bear testimony to the strength of his attach- 
ment. On leaving his camp, the chief shook me heartily by 



HOSTILITY TO NEGROES. 



the hand, telling me at the same time that he was not a Co- 
manche, but an American ; and as I did not feel disposed to 
be outdone in politeness by an Indian, I replied in the same 
spirit, that there was not a drop of Anglo-Saxon blood in my 
veins, but that T was wholly and absolutely a Comanche, at 
which he seemed delighted, duly understanding and appre- 
ciating the compliment. These people are hospitable and 
kind to all with whom they are not at war ; and on the arrival 
of a stranger at their camps a lodge is prepared for him, and 
he is entertained as long as he chooses to remain among them. 
They are also kind and affectionate to each other, and as long 
as anything comestible remains in the camp all are permitted 
to share alike ; but with these exceptions, they are possessed 
of but few virtues. Polygamy is sanctioned, and is very 
common among them, every man being allowed as many 
wives as he can support. 

Within the past few years the Comanches have (for what 
reason I could not learn) taken an inveterate dislike to the 
negroes, and have massacred several small parties of those 
who attempted to escape from the Seminoles and cross the 
plains for the purpose of joining Wild Cat upon the Rio 
Grande. Upon inquiring of them the cause of their hostility 
to the blacks, they replied that it was because they were 
.slaves to the whites ; that they were sorry for them. I sus- 
pect, however, that they were actuated by other motives than 
they cared about acknowledging, and that instead of wishing 
to better their condition by sending them to another world, 
where they would be released from the fetters of bondage, 
they were apprehensive, if they permitted them to pass 
quietly, that in time Wild Cat's followers upon the Rio 
Grande would augment to such a degree that he would inter- 
fere with their marauding operations along the Mexican bor- 
ders. During the past year they have also been hostile 
towards the Delawares and Shawnees, and have killed sev- 
eral individuals who have been into their country in small 
parties. The Creek Indians, who exercise a good influence 
over the prairie tribes, have counselled them to commit no 
further acts of hostility upon these Indians, and I presume 
they will take measures to enforce a strict adherence to their 
wishes in this respect. These people, who are so extremely 
jealous of their own freedom that they will often commit sui- 
cide rather than be taken prisoners, are the more prone to 
enslave others, and this dominant principle is carried to the 
greatest extreme so far as regards their women. A beast of 



DIET OF THE COMANCHES. Ill 

burden and a slave to the will of her brutal master, yet, 
strange as it may appear, the Comanche woman seems con- 
tented with her lot, and submits to her fate without a mur- 
mur. The hardships imposed upon the females are most 
severe and cruel. The distance of rank and consideration 
which exists between the black slave and his master is not 
greater than between the Comanche warrior and his wife. 
Every degrading office that is imposed upon the black by the 
most tyrannical master, falls, among the Comanches, to the 
lot of the wretched female. They, in common with other 
Indians, are not a prolific race ; indeed, it is seldom that a 
woman has more than three or four children. Many of these, 
owing to unavoidable exposure, die young ; the boys, how- 
ever, are nurtured with care and treated with great kindness 
by their mothers, while the girls are frequently beaten and 
abused unmercifully. I have never seen an idiot, or one that 
was naturally deformed, among them. , 

Of all the Indians I had before encountered, there were 
none who had not an extreme fondness for spirituous liquors. 
The prairie tribes that I have seen, say the taste of such 
liquor is not pleasant ; that it makes fools of them, and that 
they do not desire it. If there are exceptions to this, I think 
they may be set down as factitious rather than natural ; the 
appetite having been created by occasional indulgence in the 
use of a little at a time. 

The diet of these people is very simple ; from infancy to 
old age their only food, with the exception of a few wild 
plants which they find on the prairies, is fresh meat, of which, 
in times of plenty, they consume enormous quantities. In 
common with many other tribes, they can, when necessity 
demands it, abstain from eating for several days without in- 
convenience, and they are enabled to make up at one meal 
the deficieney. All of them are extravagantly fond of tobac- 
co, which they use for smoking, mixed with the dried leaves 
of the sumach, inhaling the smoke into their lungs, and giv- 
ing it out through their nostrils. Their language is verbal 
and pantomimic. The former consists of a very limited num- 
ber of words™ some of which are common to all the prairie 
tribes. The latter, which is exceedingly graceful and expres- 
sive, is the court language of the plains, and is used and un- 
derstood with great facility and accuracy by all the tribes 
from the Gila to the Columbia ; the motions and signs to ex- 
press ideas being common to all. In contemplating the char- 
acter of the prairie Indian, and the striking similarity be- 



112 TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 

tween him and the Arab and Tartar, we are not less aston- 
ished at the absolute dissimilarity between these and the ab- 
original inhabitants of the eastern States. The latter, from 
the time of the discovery of the country, lived in permanent 
villages, where they cultivated fields of corn, and possessed 
strong attachment lor their ancestral abodes and sepulchres : 
they did not use horses, but always made their hunting and 
war expeditions on foot, and sought the cover of trees on go- 
ing into battle : while the former have no permanent abiding- 
places, never cultivate the soil, are always mounted, and 
never fight a battle except in the open prairie, where they 
charge boldly up to an enemy, discharge their arrows with 
great rapidity, and are away before their panic-stricken an- 
tagonist can prepare to resist or retaliate. In their treatment 
of prisoners of war there was also a very marked difference. 
The eastern tribes, although they put their prisoners to tor- 
tures £>f the most appalling character, seldom, if ever, violate 
the chastity of the females ; while, on the contrary, the prairie 
Indians do not put their prisoners to death by prolonged tor- 
tures, bat invariably compel the females to submit to their 
lewd embraces. There is at this time a white women among 
the Middle Comanches, by the name of Parker, who, with 
her brother, was captured while they were young children, 
from their father's house in the western part of Texas. This 
woman has adopted all the habits and peculiarities of the 
Comanches ; has an Indian husband and children, and can- 
not be persuaded to leave them. The brother of the woman, 
who had been ransomed by a trader and brought home to his 
relatives, was sent back by his mother for the purpose of en- 
deavoring to prevail upon his sister to leave the Indians and 
return to her family ; but he stated to me that on his arrival 
she refused to listen to the proposition, saying that her hus- 
band, children, and all that she held most dear, were with the 
Indians, and there she should remain. As the prairie Indians 
depend almost entirely on the buffalo for a subsistence and 
for clothing, it becomes a question of much interest, what will 
be the fate of these people when these animals shall have be- 
come extinct ? Formerly, buffaloes were found in countless 
herds over almost the entire northern continent of America, 
from the 28th to the 50th degree of north latitude, and from 
the shores of Lake Champlain to the Rocky mountains. As it 
is important to collect and preserve all facts connected with 
the history of this interesting and useful animal before the 
species becomes extinct, I trust I shall be pardoned for intro- 



RANGE OF THE BUFFALO. 113 

during a few quotations from authors, touching their early 
history, which to me appear highly interesting. In a work 
published at Amsterdam in J 637, called "New English Ca- 
naan," by Thomas Morton, one of the first settlers of New 
England, he says : "The Indians have also made description 
of great heards of well-growne beasts that live about the parts 
of this lake (Erocoise,) now Lake Champlain, such as the 
Christian world (until this discovery) hath not bin made ac- 
quainted with. These beasts are of the bigness of a coice, 
their flesh being very, good foode, their hides good leather ; 
their fleeces very useful, being a kind of woole, as fine almost 
as the woole of the beaver ; and the salvages do make gar- 
ments thereof. It is tenne yeares since first the relation of these 
things came to the eares oj»the English." 

It is stated by another author, (Purchas,) that as early as in 
1613 the adventurers in Virginia discovered a "slow Ttinde of 
cattell as bigge as kine, which were good meate." 

The limit of the buffalo range on the north has been given 
differently by different writers. In a work published in Lon- 
don in 1589, by Hukluyt, it is stated, that in the island of 
Newfoundland were found " mightie beastes, like to camels in 
greatness, and their feete were cloven." He then says : " I 
did see them yams off, not able to discerne them perfectly, but 
their steps showed that their feete were cloven, and bigger 
than the feete of camels. I suppose them to be a kind of bvffes, 
which I read to bee'm the countreys adjacent, and very many in 
ihefirme land." 

It is supposed by some that these animals may have been 
the musk-ox. They were found by Captain Franklin as 
high as 60° north latitude. Although it is doubtful whether 
the buffalo ever ranged beyond the Rocky mountains, yet 
they have been found as far west as the western slope. They 
formerly ranged free and uninterrupted over the boundless 
plains of the West, only guided in their course by that faith- 
ful instinct which invariably led them to the freshest and 
sweetest pastures. Their only enemy then was the Indian, 
who supplied himself with food and clothing from the im- 
mense herds around his door ; but would have looked upon 
it as sacrilege to destroy more than barely sufficient to supply 
the wants of his family. Thus this monarch of the plains was 
allowed free range from one end of the continent to the other. 
But this happy state of things was not destined to continue; 
an enemy appeared, who made great havoc among them, and 
in a short time caused a very sensible diminution in their 



114 TRAFFIC AMONG THE INDIANS. 

numbers, and much contracted the limits of their wanderings. 
This enemy was the white man, who, in his steady march, 
causes the original proprietor of the soil to recede before him, 
and to diminish in numbers almost as rapidly as the buffalo. 
Thousands of these animals were annually slaughtered for 
their skins, and often for their tongues alone ; animals whose 
flesh is sufficient to afford sustenance to a large number of 
men are sacrificed to furnish a " bon bouche" for the rich 
epicure. This wholesale slaughter on the part of the white 
man, with the number consumed by the Indians, who are 
constantly on their trail, migrating with them as regularly as 
the season comes round, with the ravenous wolves, that are 
always at hand to destroy one of them if wounded, gives the 
poor beast but little rest or prospect\of permanent existence. 
It is only eight years since the western borders of Texas 
abounded with buffaloes ; but now they seldom go south of 
Red river, and their range upon east and west has also very 
much contracted within the same time ; so that they are at 
present confined to a narrow belt of country between the 
outer settlements and the base of the Rocky mountains. 
With this rapid diminution in their numbers they must, in the 
course of a very few years, become exterminated. What will 
then become of the prairie Indian, who, as I have already re- 
marked, relies for subsistence, shelter, and clothing on the 
flesh and hide of this animal ? He must either perish with 
them, increase his marauding depredations on the Mexicans, 
or learn to cultivate the soil. As the first law of our nature 
is self-preservation it is not probable that he will sit down 
and quietly submit to starvation ; he must, therefore, resort to 
one of the latter alternatives. But as he has no knowledge 
of agriculture — considers it the business of a slave, and very 
much beneath the dignity of a warrior — it appears reasonable 
to suppose that he will turn his attention to the Mexicans, 
over whom he has held the mastery for many years. Here- 
tofore he has plundered these people to supply himself with 
animals for his own use and for traffic. 

A number of Delawares, Shawnees, and Kickapoos, fr6m 
Missouri and the borders of Arkansas, have for several years 
past been engaged in a traffic with the prairie Indians, which 
has had a tendency to defeat the efforts of the military author- 
ities in checking their depredations upon the citizens of the 
northern provinces of Mexico. These traders, after procuring 
from the whites an outfit of such articles as are suited to the 
wants of the prairie Indians, visit all the different bands, and 



GIVING OF PRESENTS. 115 

prosecute a very lucrative business. The goods they carry 
out consist of a few articles of small value, such as tobacco, 
paint, knives, calico, wampum, beads, &c, &c, which are of 
the utmost importance to the Indians, and which, if neces- 
sary, they will make great sacrifices to procure ; but as they 
have no commodity for exchange that the traders desire ex- 
cept horses and mules, they must necessarily give these for 
the goods, and large numbers are annually disposed of in this 
manner. As I have before mentioned, nearly all these ani- 
mals are pilfered from the Mexicans ; and as the number they 
traffic away must be replaced by new levies upon their vic- 
tims, of course all that the traders obtain causes a correspond- 
ing increase in the amount of depredations. Should the gov- 
ernment of the United States feel disposed to make the prairie 
Indians annual donations of the same description of articles 
that the traders now supply them with, (which I am most 
happy to learn is now contemplated,) upon the express con- 
dition that they would continue only so long £s they adhered 
strictly to all the requirements of the agents, it would in a 
measure obviate the necessity of their making long expedi- 
tions into Mexico, and would most undoubtedly have the effect 
of depreciating the value of the merchandise to such a degree 
that the traders would no longer find the traffic profitable. 
The Indians of the plains are accustomed, in their diplomatic 
intercourse with each other, to exchange presents, and they 
have no idea of friendship unaccompanied by a substantial 
token in this form : moreover, they measure the strength of 
the attachment of their friends by the magnitude of the pres- 
ents they receive ; and I am firmly convinced that a small 
amount of money annually expended in this way, with a 
proper and judicious distribution of the presents, would have 
a very salutary influence in checking the depredations upon 
the Mexicans. In a talk which I held with a chief of one of 
the bands of prairie Indians I stated to him that the President 
of the United States was their friend, and wished to live in 
peace with them. He replied that he was much astonished 
to hear this ; for, judging from the few trifling presents I had 
made his people, he was of opinion that the " Big Captain " 
held them in but little estimation. 

Trained up, as the prairie Indians had been from infancy, 
to regard the occupation of a warrior as the most honorable 
of all others, and having no permanent abiding-places or 
local attachments, they can without inconvenience move all 
their families and worldly effects from one extremity of the 



116 RELIGIOUS BELIEF. 

buffalo range to the other. With their numerous and hardy 
horses they travel with great rapidity ; and possessing as inti- 
mate a knowledge as they do of the localities, it would give 
them a great advantage over any body of troops who should 
pursue them into the country. War would not, therefore, be 
as great a calamity to them as to other tribes who have per- 
manent habitations. Some have supposed that a large body 
of these Indians could not obtain a sufficient amount of sub- 
sistence to enable them to remain together for any great 
length of time ; but their numerous horses and mules, which 
they often make use of for food when game is scarce, would 
supply them with subsistence for a long time. It will be 
necessary to devise some measures to do away with the in- 
veterate prejudices which the Comanches entertain against 
the habits and customs of the whites before they will be in- 
duced to remain in any fixed abodes or cultivate the soil. 

In common with most other Indians, they are very supersti- 
tious ; they believe in dreams, the wearing of amulets, medi- 
cine-bags, &c..j and the dedication of offerings to secure the 
favor of invisible agents ; as also in the efficacy of music and 
dancing for the cure of diseases. They submit with the most 
imperturbable stoicism and apathy to misfortunes of the most 
serious character, and, in the presence of strangers, manifest 
no surprise or curiosity at the exhibition of novelties ; yet this 
apparent indifference is assumed, and they are in reality very 
inquisitive people. In every village may be seen small struc- 
tures, consisting of a frame- work of slight poles, bent into a 
semi-spherical form, and covered with buffalo-hides. These 
are called medicine-lodges, and are used as vapor-baths. The 
patient is seated within the lodge, beside several heated stones, 
upon which water is thrown, producing a dense hot vapor, 
which brings on a profuse perspiration, while, at the same 
time, the shamans, or medicine-men, who profess to have the 
power of communicating with the unseen world, and of pro- 
pitiating the malevolence of evil spirits, are performing vari- 
ous incantations, accompanied by music, on the outside. Such 
means are resorted to for healing all diseases ; and I am also 
informed that their young men are obliged to undergo a regu- 
lar course of steam-bathing before they are considered worthy 
Of assuming the responsible duties of warriors. The know- 
ledge they possess of their early history is very vague and 
limited, and does not extend further back than a few genera- 
tions. They say that their forefathers lived precisely as they 
do, and followed the buffalo : that they came from a country to- 



CHRISTIANIZATION OF THE INDIANS. 117 

wards the setting sun, where they expect to return after death. 
They acknowledge the existence and power of a great super- 
natural agent, who directs and controls all things ; but this 
power they conceive to be vested in the sun, which they wor- 
ship and appeal to on all occasions of moment. They also 
anticipate a future state of existence similar to the present, 
and invariably bury with the warrior his hunting and war equip- 
ments. Thus far no efforts have ever been made to improve 
the moral or physical condition of these people ; no missiona- 
ries have, to my knowledge, ever visited them, and they have 
no more idea of Christianity than they have of the religion of 
Mahomet. We find dwelling almost at our doors as barbar- 
ous and heathenish a race as exists on the face of the earth ; 
and while our benevolent and philanthropic citizens are mak- 
ing such efforts to ameliorate the condition of savages in other 
countries, should we not do something for the benefit of these 
wild men of the prairies? Those dingy noblemen of nature, 
the original proprietors of all that vast domain included be- 
tween the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific, have been des- 
poiled, supplanted, and robbed of their just and legitimate 
heritage, by the avaricious and rapid encroachments of the 
white man. Numerous and powerful nations have already be- 
come exterminated by unjustifiable wars that he has waged 
with them, and by the effects of the vices he has introduced 
and inculcated ; and of those that remain, but few can be 
be found who are not contaminated by the pernicious influ- 
ences of unprincipled and designing adventurers. It is not at 
this late day in our power to atone for all the injustice inflicted 
upon the red men; but it seems to me that a wise policy 
would dictate almost the only recompense it is now in our 
power to make — that of introducing among them the light of 
Christianity and the blessings of civilization, with their atten- 
dant benefits of agriculture and the arts. 



118 PACIFIC RAILWAY. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Pacific railway — Impracticability of crossing the "Llano Estaeado" — Route 
from Fort Smith to Santa Fe — Return route from Doiia Ana — Its connections 
with the Mississippi and the Pacific. 

The very lively interest that has been manifested in a pro- 
ject of such importance as that of uniting the Atlantic with the 
Pacific by a single span of railroad over the continent of North 
America, and the prevailing dearth of reliable information re- 
garding a great portion of that vast territory lying west of 
the Mississippi, induce me to add a few remarks upon this 
subject, which I trust will not be wholly devoid of interest or 
utility at this particular period. 

Whether this road should be national, and its administra- 
tion under the direction of the general government, or whether 
it should be intrusted to individual States or corporate com- 
panies, are questions the discussion of which it does not become 
me to attempt, and upon which I shall not presume to hazard 
an opinion. I propose, in what I have to say, merely to give 
a brief detail of such facts connected with this subject as are 
suggested after an examination of a district of country over 
which it may be found desirable to construct the road. 

Although the appropriation made by the last Congress for 
preliminary surveys, indicates a disposition on the part of our 
national legislature to give aid in the initiatory steps, and al- 
though great benefits would undoubtedly result from bringing 
our distant possessions in the west into a closer proximity with 
the eastern States, by a means of transit much more expedi- 
tious than any which nature offers, thereby facilitating the 
transmission of troops and munitions of war, the value of the 
project, in a commercial aspect, appears to be of sufficient 
magnitude to denote a reasonable guarantee for its speedy ex- 
ecution. 

The importance, and indeed the necessity, of this road, are 
very generally admitted. It is the will of a people controlling 
a great share of the commerce of the world that it should be 
made ; and possessing, as they do, ample and pecuniary re- 
sources, and stimulated by the ambitious but laudable pros- 
pect of turning and monopolizing the channel of Asiatic trade* 



LLANO ESTACADO. 119 

with the almost certain anticipation of profit, it is easy to 
predict the result. The financial demonstration recently made 
in New York city, whereby an amount of stock almost suffici- 
ent to carry out the enterprise was subscribed in one day, is 
eminently significant of the fact, and affords substantial evi- 
dence of the confidence of capitalists in the feasibility of the 
scheme, and an abundant pledge for its early and successful 
accomplishment. That the road will be constructed, but few 
at this time entertain a doubt ; the only question that remains 
to be determined is, where is the best and most advantageous 
route ? 

The several exploring parties that have been sent across the 
continent in different latitudes, will undoubtedly place the de- 
partment in possession of all the information required concern- 
ing the country over which the limited amount of the appro- 
priation, and time, enabled them to pass ; but as a large 
portion of the district over which I have travelled will not 
come within the scope of their reconnoissances, my remarks 
may serve to throw some light upon the subject, which cannot 
be obtained from other sources, and thus add to the general 
stock of information so earnestly sought after at this particular 
period. 

The district of country to which my attention has been 
directed is embraced within the 32d and 36th parallels of lat- 
itude, and the 95th and 107th meridians of longitude ; and is 
bounded upon the north by the Canadian river, and upon the 
west by the Rio Grande. A great portion of this vast domain, 
containing nearly thirty-two thousand square miles, was, pre- 
vious to 1849, almost wholly unknown, except to the native 
occupants. 

One of the most prominent features which strikes the eye 
of the beholder on an examination of this section, is the very 
remarkable uniformity of its surface, and the almost total ab- 
sence of those abrupt and rugged primitive mountain ranges 
which in many other parts of our country offer such formida- 
ble obstacles to the passage of railways. But few mountains 
are seen throughout this region, and those few are so little 
elevated that they present but trifling obstructions when 
compared with many that are found in the eastern States. 
This section is, however, traversed throughout, nearly its 
whole length, by the lofty plateau of the "Llano estacado," 
which, as will be observed upon the map, stretches out from 
the 32d to the 36th parallel of latitude, and is, in places, two 
hundred miles wide, without a tree or running stream through- 



120 



NATURAL ROAD. 



out its entire surface, and presents, in my judgment, an im- 
passable barrier to a wagon road; and I am fully impressed 
with the belief that a route crossing this desert anywhere 
between the 33d parallel of latitude and its northern limits 
will never be selected for a Pacific railwa}'-, or, indeed, a 
road of any description. South of this parallel the plain be- 
comes less elevated above the adjacent country, and finally 
merges into the lands bordering the Pecos and the head 
branches of the Colorado. 

If it be impracticable to construct and find the material for 
sustaining a railway across this desert, 4 the question arises 
whether a feasible route can be found near the northern or 
southern borders of it. 

The road which was made under my supervision from Fort 
Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, in 1849, (with 
one exception, where it crosses a spur, which can easily be 
turned,) skirts the base of the northern border of this plain ; 
and so far as the topography of the country is concerned, I 
believe that a railroad can be made over it with great facility, 
as the general surface is smooth, and intersected by no im- 
passable mountains or deep valle} r s. 

On departing from Fort Smith, this road traverses a gently 
undulating district, sustaining a heavy growth of excellent 
timber, but occasionally interspersed with prairie lands, afford- 
ing luxuriant grass for eight months in the year, and intersected 
with numerous small streams flowing over a highly produc- 
tive soil, thus embracing the elements of a rich and beautiful 
pastoral and agricultural locality. This character continues 
for one hundred and eighty miles, to near the 99th meri- 
dian of longitude, where the road emerges from the woodlands 
and enters the great plains, where but little timber is seen 
except directly along the borders of the water-courses. The 
soil soon becomes thin and sandy, and, owing to the periodi- 
cal droughts of the summer season, would require artificial 
irrigation to make it available for cultivation. 

Soon after leaving the woodlands the road takes a ridge 
which divides the Canadian from the Washita river, and con- 
tinues upon it to near the sources of the latter stream, a dis- 
tance of nearly three hundred miles. This ridge lies in a 
very direct course for Santa Fe, is firm and smooth, and 
makes one of the best natural roads I have ever travelled 
over. The ground upon each side is cut up into a succession 
of deep and precipitous gullies, which have been washed out 
by the continued action of water in such a manner as to ren- 



LAGUNA COLORADO. 121 

der any other route in the vicinity, but the one directly upon 
the crest of the "divide," almost impassable. 

From the head of the Washita the road continues near the 
valley of the Canadian for a hundred miles further, occasion- 
ally crossing small tributaries which furnish the traveller with 
water at convenient distances ; it then bears to the left, and 
passes over the elevated lands bordering the Pecos river, 
skirting the base of the mountains along that stream until it 
arrives at a place called "Laguna Colorado," a small lake 
of muddy water, where the road forks, one branch leading to 
Santa Fe over a road forty miles in length, and the other to 
Albuquerque, (the point where the route through what is called 
" Walker's Pass" is said to leave the Rio Grande,) a distance 
of only twenty miles. 

The distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, as measured 
with the chain, is eight hundred and twenty miles.* 

The line of this road continued east from Fort Smith would 
intersect the Mississippi river in the vicinity of Memphis, Ten- 
nessee, and would pass through the country bordering the 
Arkansas river, which cannot be surpassed for fertility, as the 
bountiful crops of cotton, corn, and other products grown by 
the planters, abundantly evince. 

The route of my return from New Mexico in 1849, which 
has been travelled by California emigrants every year since 
that time, leaves the Rio Grande at a point called Dona Ana, 
three hundred miles below Santa Fe. 

On leaving this place, at an elevation of about four thousand 
feet above the sea, the road for three hundred miles traverses 
an arid prairie region, where but little wood is found except 
upon three ranges of mountains which stretch out to the 
north, out do not materially obstruct the passage of the road. 
They are covered for the most part with pine timber, and 
abound in springs of wholesome water, making it imperative 
upon the traveller to pass near them. Upon the route marked 
down, the defiles have but little elevation above the general 
surface, and, with the exception of a few miles of broken 
ground near the "Peak of Guadalupe," the ascents and de- 
scents to all the undulations are gradual and easy. At the 
southern extremity of the Guadalupe mountains the summit 

* The barometrical altitude of Albuquerque above tide water is about 5,130 
feet, and of Fort Smith about 600 feet ; making the difference in altitude, or 
total declination eastward between the two points, 4,530 feet, or an average 
grade of a little over 5| feet to the mile. 



122 CROSSING OF BRAZOS AND COLORADO. 

level of the country between the Rio Grande and the Pecos is 
attained, and from this point the surface declines to the bor- 
ders of the latter stream by a gradation almost imperceptible. 
Crossing the Pecos, the road ascends by a grade of about five 
feet per mile for twenty -five miles, and the traveller here finds 
himself upon the broad plain of the "Llano estacado," which 
at this point divides the waters of the Rio Grande from those 
of the Colorado. The road crosses the southern spur of this 
plain, where it is seventy miles broad, and as firm and smooth 
as the best McAdamized road. Thence it crosses the head 
branches of the Colorado and the main Brazos, and leads off 
to a ridge which terminates near Fulton, Arkansas, upon the 
navigable waters of Red river. By leaving this ridge and 
crossing Red river at Preston, a good road is found to Fort 
Smith, upon the navigable portion of the Arkansas, which 
would be in a very direct course for St. Louis, and traverse 
one of the most productive sections of the United States. 

The entire distance from Dona Ana to Fulton is about 
eight hundred and fifty miles, and to Fort Smith nine hundred 
and four miles. The road from El Paso connects, at the 
Sierra Waco, with the one described, and is thirty miles 
shorter. 

Dona Ana being elevated four thousand feet above the tide- 
water level, and Fulton and Fort Smith six hundred and sixty 
and six hundred respectively, gives an average grade of less 
than four feet to the mile over either road. These results, of 
course, can only be regarded as approximate estimates, which 
will be increased upon the undulatory portions of the routes. 
The surface of the country, however, has a remarkably uni- 
form dip to the east and south throughout nearly its, whole 
extent, and is, perhaps, better adapted by nature to the recep- 
tion of a railroad than almost any other which can be found. 

A glance at a map of the country will show that Red river, 
from the point of its efflux upon the Delta of the Mississippi 
to Fulton, has a northerly bearing ; that here it makes a sud- 
den deflection of almost a right- angle to the west, and main- 
tains this course to its origin in the " Llano estacado." 

The road alluded to, immediately after leaving Fulton, 
leads to an elevated ridge, dividing the waters that flow into 
Red river from those of the Sulphur and Trinity, and contin- 
ues upon it, with but few deviations from the direct course 
for El Paso and Dona Ana, to near the Brazos river, a dis- 
tance of three hundred and twenty miles. This portion of 
the route has its locality in a country of surpassing beauty 



BITUMINOUS COAL. ' 123 

and fertilit} 7- , and possesses all the requisites for attracting and 
sustaining a dense farming population. It is diversified with 
prairie and woodlands, affording a great variety of excellent 
timber, and is bountifully watered with numerous spring- 
brooks, which flow off upon either side of the ridge into the 
streams before mentioned. The crest of the ridge is exceed- 
ingly smooth and level, and is altogether the best natural or 
artificial road I have ever travelled over for the same dis- 
tance. 

After leaving this ridge the road crosses the Brazos near 
very extensive fields "of bituminous coal, (the only locality of 
this mineral, so far as my knowledge extends, that has been 
discovered within two hundred miles,) which burns readily 
with a clear flame, is made use of for fuel at Fort Belknap, 
and is very superior in quality. 

From the Brazos the road skirts small affluents of that 
stream and the Colorado for two hundred miles, through a 
country more undulating than that east of the Brazos ; but no 
mountains are met with, or elevated hills, which cannot be 
avoided by short detours. 

Here and there prairies present themselves, but this section 
is for the most part covered with a growth of trees called 
mezquite, which stand at such intervals that they present 
much the appearance of an immense peach orchard. They 
are from five to ten inches in diameter, their stocks about ten 
feet in length, and for their durable properties are admirably 
adapted for railway ties, and would furnish an inexhaustible 
amount of the very best fuel. The soil upon this section is 
principally a red argilaceous loam, similar in appearance to 
that in the Red river bottoms, which is so highly productive, 
and extends to near the 102d degree of longitude, or about 
three degrees further west than the arable soil upon some of 
the more northerly routes. 

As this route is included within the 32d and 34th parallels 
of latitude, it would never be obstructed by snow, as it sel- 
dom falls more than two or three inches in depth, and only 
remains upon the ground a few hours at a time. 

The whole surface of the country, from Red river to the 
Rio Grande, is covered with a dense coating of the most nu- 
tritious grass, which remains green for nine months in the 
year, and enables cattle to subsist the entire winter without 
any other forage. 

It will be observed that the route here spoken of skirts the 
head-waters of the rivers flowing towards the Gulf of Mex- 



124 ' LLANO ESTACADO. 

ico, for several hundred miles after leaving Red river, and that 
a road cannot be made much further to the north without im- 
pinging upon the " Llano estacado." From what I have seen 
of the country south of this, I have no doubt but that a road 
could be made in almost any direction, but would be attended 
with much greater cost than upon the one I have attempted 
to describe, for the reason that the surface of the country 
along this route is much more level. 

After passing the Brazos river, the road, as I have before 
observed, runs near the sources of the streams, where the 
valleys are broad, and but little depressed below the general 
surface ; whereas I have remarked that, in descending some 
of these streams, the longitudinal and lateral valleys become 
deep and abrupt, and where (as would be the case with a 
Pacific railway) it became necessary to cross these undula- 
tions transversely, a greater expenditure of labor would be 
involved in grading than upon the other route. There would 
also be many more large streams to bridge ; indeed, upon the 
route I have recommended, there are but two streams (the 
Brazos and Pecos) of greater width than forty feet, over the 
entire distance of eight hundred and fifty miles, between Red 
river and the Rio Grande. 

As Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego, in California, are near- 
ly in the same direct line, and one which intersects the longitudi- 
nal axis of the continent at right-angles, a road connecting these 
points would form the shortest line of communication to the 
Pacific in this latiude, and would pass near the valley of the 
Gila, or its vicinity. 

The direct line of this road prolonged eastwardly from Ful- 
ton would pass through Arkansas, and intersect the Missis- 
sippi river a little below Napoleon, opposite the State of 
Mississippi, and would traverse a section which presents no 
serious impediment to the passage of a railroad. 

This route was surveyed in 1851 by Mr. Sidell, (civil engi- 
neer,)- under the direction of the Topographical Bureau, and 
resulted in perfectly establishing the feasibility of the route, 
and the determination of the fact that the most elevated ground 
betwen Lake Providence and Fulton (a distance of two hun- 
dred miles) is but one hundred and sixty feet above the flood 
water-table of the Mississippi, and only one hundred feet 
above that of Red river. 

The terminus of the eastern section of this route upon the 
Del Norte could be resumed upon the west bank of that 
stream ; and if the practicability of constructing the road down 



ELEVATION OF MOUNTAIN PASSES. 125 

the valley of the Gila can be established, it would give a con- 
tinuous line to the Colorado river. 

Although our knowledge of the country west of the Rio Del 
Norte is for the most part confined to a few traces that have 
been pursued by travellers making their way to the Pacific ; 
yet it is believed that sufficient reliable data may be deduced 
from competent authorities to warrant the expectation of find- 
ing a route with admissible grades, as far, at least, as the 
Colorado. 

Before reaching the waters that flow into the Pacific, it 
becomes necessary upon this route, as upon all others in our 
territory, to surmount the Rocky mountain chain. The eleva- 
tion of the crest of this great continental vertebral column 
varies from five to seventeen thousand feet above the tide- 
level of the ocean, but has a declension towards its southern 
extremity, which greatly favors the project in question. The 
barometrical measurements which have been made, place 
" Long's Peak" in latitude 40° 36' at the maximum, and the 
culmination of a pass or defile in near latitude 32° at the 
minimum altitude. 

The elevation of the eastern base of the mountains in lati- 
tude 42° is the same as the summit of the range in latitude 
32°. The elevations of other passes that have been examined, 
vary from seven to eight thousand feet above tide. 

If, so far as the economy of railway transportation is con- 
cerned, the attainment, with the locomotive, of twenty feet in 
altitude, is equivalent to the transit of a mile upon a horizontal 
plane, we would have (other conditions being equal) a differ- 
ence of one hundred miles in horizontal distance in favor of 
the route under consideration, over one which should pass the 
mountains at an elevation of seven thousand feet. 

The difference of elevation of the Rio Del Norte in the vicini- 
ty of Dona Ana, and the crest of the mountains in latitude 
32° being about one thousand feet, and the distance between 
the two positions about one hundred miles, gives an average 
grade (which is said to be very uniform) of ten feet per mile 
in ascending the eastern slope of the mountains. From the 
summit to the mouth of the Gila, a distance of three hundred 
and eighty miles, the difference in altitude, barometrically de- 
termined, is four thousand seven hundred and forty-six feet, 
which (supposing the slope to be uniform) admits of a gradient 
of about twelve and a half feet to the mile in descending the 
Pacific side of the mountains. 

The road upon this side would be much more circuitous 



126 ROUTE TO THE GULP. 

in its course than upon the other ; the grades will be increased 
upon the undulatory portions of the country, and some diffi- 
culty may be anticipated in passing the great canon of the 
Gila, provided the road is confined exclusively to the limits 
of our own territory ; but a gentleman of scientific attainments, 
who has examined this route carefully, is of the opinion that 
no greater impediments will be met with upon the Gila than 
are found upon the Hudson river road. From the Colorado 
to the Pacific (unless some other pass is discovered) the road 
must penetrate the " Sierra Nevada" chain, through what is 
called " Warner's Pass." 

The summit of this defile is situated north of the general 
course of the road, and the approaches to it, upon both sides, 
are somewhat tortuous. It is about one hundred miles dis- 
tant from the confluence of the Gila with the Colorado, and 
about eighty miles from San Diego on the Pacific. 

The elevation of the Pass above tide-water being three 
thousand and thirteen feet, and that of the Colorado, at the 
mouth of the Gila, two hundred and fifty-four feet, we would 
have an average gradation of twenty-seven and a half feet per 
mile in the ascent of the eastern slope, and a descent from the 
Pass of thirty-seven and a half feet to the mile in reaching 
San Diego. 

Should it be found desirable, on arriving at the mouth of 
the Gila, to turn the course of the road, and run it down the 
valley of the Colorado, to the head of the Gulf of California. 
I am informed by persons who have examined this section 
that the surface is free from obstructions, and the distance 
to Adair bay (where four fathoms of water may be relied upon 
at ebb-tide) is about eighty miles. 

I am, sir, 

Very respectfully, 

Your obedient servant, 

RANDOLPH B. MARCY, 

Captain 5th hifantnj, U. S. Army. 



APPENDIX A. 



TABLE 



METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 



During the expedition for the exploration of the Red river and 
its sources under charge of Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th U. S. 
infantry. 



128 APPENDIX A.- — METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 



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APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 



135 



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APPENDIX A= METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, 



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APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 



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APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 139 



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140 



APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 



APPENDIX B. 



Table @f courses and distances on the route of Captain Marcifs 
expedition to the sources of Red river. 





o. 








4> 






g 






*o -2 


3 














a! 












2 a 






















O !>■ 






O O 


.s <s 


Remarks. 












g a 






M< 


re 


.3 


,S to 


C 




s 


a 


B 




S o 


S 


















n 


fc 


o 


pq 


is"" 


R 




1852. 






o 








May 7 




SE. 6°S 

N. 7 W 


39 

187 






Total distance travelled, 6,247 
revolutions — 16 miles 5 yards. 










N. 54 W 


234 












N. 66 W 


246 












N. 88 W 


268 












N. 60 W 


240 












N. 30 W 


210 












N. 85 W 


265 












S. 80 W. . . . . . 


280 












Ni 28 W . . . . . 










s 




N. 78 W 

N. 10W..... 


20S 
258 






Total distance travelled, 2,292 
revolutions = 5 miles 1,524 












N.7SE 


190 






yards. 






N. 52E 


112 












N. 34 E 


142 








11 




NE. 11 N 
NW. 15 W... 


146 
240 






Total distance travelled, 1,567 
revolutions =4 miles 11 yards. 


















Mis. 




12 




NE. 2N. 


223 


1,090 


2 799 


Total distance travelled, 4,604 






W. 6 S 


276 


4S3 


1 241 


revolvtions = 11 miles 92. 






SW. 8 W 


307 


•786 


2 019 








SW. 1W 


314 


20S 


534 








SW. 15 W.... 


300 


2,097 


5 886 




13 


1 


SW.5S 


320 


434 


1 115 


Total distance travelled, 434 re- 
volutions = 1 mile 115. 


16 


2 


W. 6 S 


276 


548 


1 407 


Total distance travelled, 5,625 






W. 27 S 


297 


1,442 


3 704 


revolutions = 14 miles 22S. 






W.10S...... 


280 


994 


2 553 








W.20S 


290 


1,584 


3 940 








w 


270 


1,107 


2 843 




IT 


3 


NW. 5 W.... 


230 


903 


2 819 


Total distance travelled, 4,341 






SW. 17 W. . . . 


298 


1,462 


3 755 


revolutions =11 miles 172. 






SW. 15 W.... 


300 


526 


1 351 








W.10S 


280 


527 


1 358 








NW. 15 W... 


240 


923 


2 370 




18 


4 


NW. 15 W... 


240 


869 


2 233 


Total distance travelled, 5,684 






W. 20 N 


250 


9S0 


2 517 


revolutions =14 miles 34. 






W. 15 N 


255 


618 


1 597 








W. 10 N 


260 


611 


1 597 








NW. 


225 
260 


856 
539 


2 198 
1 384 






W. 10 N 








W. 12 N 


258 


463 


1 189 








NW. 5 W . . . . 


230 


74S 


1 921 




19 












Halted in Camp No. 4, on Sink 
creek. 














20 


5 




251 




3 00 




N. 10 W 


190 




1 405 


405. 


21 


6 


NW. 15 N.... 


210 




250 


Total distance travelled, 3 miles 






SW. S S 


323 




500 


41. 






NW 5 W.... 


230 




1 500 








NE. 20 N . . . . 


155 




1 160 




22 


7 

8 
9 


W 10 N 






2 884 
7 793 

3 135 
1 142 
9 209 

852 

1 00 












168. 






























t 


26 


E 


90 
112 




Total distance travelled, 852. 


27 


E. 22 N 


Total distance travelled, 1 mile 






NE. 17 E 


118 




295 


295. 



APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 



14] 





p. 




a 




eS 




o 
















«5< 






£ 


a 


a 


3 


O 


Z 


1S52. 




May 29 


10 


80 


11 


31 


12 


June 1 


18 


2 


14 


3 


15 


4 


16 


5 


17 


6 


IS 


7 


19 


8 


20 


9 


21 


10 


22 


* 


k 23 




W. 6°S... 
N.5E.... 
NW.17N. 

N 

N. 10W. . 
N. 20 E... 
N. 20 W. . 
N. 10 W. . 
NE. 5E... 
NE. 5N.... 
NW.5N.. 
NW. 15 N. 

NW 

N 

N.5 E.... 
N. 20 W. . 
NW. 5 W. 
W. 8N.. . 
NW. 7W. 
NW. 5N.. 
NW. 9W. 
NW. UN. 
NW. 5N.. 
NW. 17 N . 
NW. 5N.. 
NE. 7N... 
W.5 N... 

W 

W 

W. 8S.... 
SW. 9S... 

w 

N. 30 W. . 

N 

N. 30 W. . 
N. 15 W. . 
NW.5N.. 

NW 

NW. 17 N. 
N. 15 W. . 
W. 20 N. . 
W. ION. . 
NW. 15 W. 
W. 15 N. . 
N 

NW. 5N.. 
SW.15W. 
NW. 5 N. . 
NW. 20 N. 
NW. IS W 
W. 14 S... 
SW. IS... 
SW.5S... 
NW. 20 N. 
NW.2N.. 
W. 6S. .. 
W. 1SN. . 
NW. 13 N. 
W. ION. . 
NW. 13 N. 

W 

W.5N.. . 
W. 16 S... 



276 
175 
20S 
ISO 
190 
160 
200 
190 
130 
140 
220 
210 
225 
180 
175 
200 
230 
262 
282 
220 
234 
214 
220 
208 
220 
142 
265 
270 
270 
27S 
324 
270 
210 
ISO 
210 
195 
220 
225 
208 
195 
250 
260 
240 
255 
180 

220 
300 
220 
205 
238 
2S4 
316 
320 
205 
223 
276 
252 
212 
260 
212 
270 
265 
236 



424 
283 
521 

1,195 

1,031 
884 
526 
322 
628 
307 

1,638 
280 
025 
803 
S4 

1,296 
235 
939 

1,100 
717 
697 
620 
498 
654 

1,009 
969 
626 
341 

1,061 
419 
494 

1,063 
986 
638 
807 
616 
619 

1,109 
493 
605 

1,048 
671 
960 
S19 
459 

465 
688 
972 
802 
246 

1,156 
781 
343 
590 
649 

1,162 
574 
764 

1,2S7 
340 

1,850 

1,087 
981 



Mis. 
1 0S4 

598 

1 838 

3 069 

2 648 

9S6 

1 351 
S27 
1- 623 
7SS 

4 207 

719 

1 615 

2 062 
215 

3 585 
603 

412 
980 



841 
790 
602 
279 
6S9 
591 
490 
618 



S75 



726 
076 
269 
731 
532 
648 
072 
592 
600 
S4S 
266 

1 564 

2 692 

1 733 

2 467 
2 104 
1 179 



1 195 

1 777 

2 496 
2 060 
632 



909 
006 
SSI 
525 
677 
985 
474 
963 
806 
873 
467 
333 
519 



Remarks. 



Total distance travelled, miles 
09153. 



Total distance travelled, 8,198 
revolutions = S miles 225859. 



Total distance travelled, 3,480 
revolutions == 8 miles 820895, 



Total distance travelled, 2,470 
revolutions — 6 miles 6. 

Total distance travelled, 4,346 
revolutions = 11 miles 181. 



Total distance travelled, 2,945 
revolutions = 7 miles 574. 



Total distance travelled, 5,468 
revolutions = 14 miles 054. 



Total distance travelled, 3,442 
revolutions = 8 miles 830. 



Total distance travelled, 3,498 
revolutions = 8 miles 996. 



Total distance travelled, 459 rev- 
olutions = 1 mile 179. 

Total distance travelled, 3,178 
revolutions = S miles 16. 



Total distance travelled, 3,519 
revolutions = 9 miles 058, 



Total distance travelled, 4,127 
revolutions — 10 miles 601. 



Total distance travelled, 4,248 
revolutions = 10 miles 894, 



142 



APPENDIX B.— COURSES AND DISTANCES. 



° .t 

- u 



1852. 

June 11 

12 



14 



25 



30 



31 



35 



27 



35 



36 



3T 



NW. 15° W 
W. 5N.. .. 

W. 8S 

W. 5N.. .. 
NW. 15 W. 

SW 

W. 10S.... 

W. 3S 

SW. 15 W.. 
SW. 17 W.. 

w 

S. 10W.... 
W. ION. .. 
SW. 15 W.. 

W. 10 s.. . 

w 

SW. 15 S... 
W. 6S 



SE. 10 E. 



S 

S. 10 E... 

s. low.. 

S. 20 W.. 
SE.10S.. 

s.. 

S. 10 E... 

s 

SE. 15 S.. 
SW. 5W. 

s 

S. 20 W.. 

SE 

E 

E 



SE. 10 S. 
S. 10 E.. 
SiE. 20 S. 

s 

SE 



S. 10W... 
NW. 15 N. 
W. 10 s... 
s. low... 

w 

SW 

W. 20 N. . 

s 

W. 10 s... 
W. ION. . 
SW. 10W. 
S. 5W.... 
S. 10 E... . 
SW. 10S.. 

SE 

S 

S. 6W.... 
S. 10W... 

SW 

w 

S. 20 W... 



240 

265 
278 
265 
240 
315 
280 
273 
300 
288 
270 
350 
260 
300 

2S0 
270 
330 
276 
320 
350 



360 

10 

350 

340 

35 

360 

10 

360 

30 

310 

360 

340 

45 

90 

90 



10 

25 
360 

45 
360 
340 
210 
2S0 
850 
270 
315 
250 
360 
280 
260 
305 
355 

10 
325 

45 
860 
354 
350 
315 
27.0 
840 



£ 

^ 2 

*"2 



224 

1,476 
431 
353 

1,220 
898 

1,208 
552 

1,142 
590 
822 
891 
799 

1,050 
486 

1,017 
305 

1,802 
674 
401 
976 

1,176 

1,132 

2,808 
983 
608 
945 
851 
415 
556 
641 
838 
311 

2, 358 
837 
999 
695 

1,632 

604 
554 

1,681 

1,174 
705 
461 

1,217 
579 
975 
260 
843 

1, 933 
789 
842 

1,043 
904 
936 
976 
323 

1,444 
159 
819 

1,247 
423 
993 
519 
314 



ga 

a 

s 



Mis. 
675 
3 791 



107 
906 
134 
306 
103 
418 
933 
515 
101 
2S8 
052 
697 
249 
612 



2 
2 
1 

2 

783 
3 344 

1 741 

1 030 

2 507 

3 020 



218 
525 
572 
427 
262 
065 
428 
756 
152 



788 
6 036 
2 150 
2 560 

1 785 
4 192 



561 

423 



025 
811 
185 
015 
487 
502 
667 
2 164 
964 
026 
162 
676 
323 
403 
249 



829 

3 709 

408 

2 103 

3 203 

1 085 

2 55 
1 833 
802 



Remarks* 



Total distance travelled, 3,4 
revolutions == 8 miles 938. 



Total distance travelled, 4,390 
revolutions = 11 miles 275. 



Total distance travelled, 4,044 
revolutions = 10 miles 387. 



Total distance travelled, 5,851 
revolutions = 15 miles 037. 



Total distance travelled, 1,132 
revolutions = 2 miles 706. 

Total distance travelled, 4,899 
revolutions = 11 miles 310. 

Total distance travelled, 4,587 
revolutions = 11 miles 888. 



Total distance travelled, 4,8 
revolutions = 12 miles 587. 



Total distance travelled, 1,632 
revolutions = 4 miles 192. 

Total distance travelled, 5,179 
revolutions = 13 miles 303. 



Total distance travelled, 5,807. 
revolutions = 14 miles 916. 



Total distance travelled, 3,578 
revolutions = 9 miles 2. 



Total distance travelled, 4,557 
revolutions = 11 miles 705. 



Total distance tra^Wed, 3,496 
revolutions = 8 miles 98. 



i\%llei 



APPENDIX B. COUftSES AND DISTANCES. 



143 





d 






3 ^ 


<D 






a 






oS 


3 






C3 






£a 


C3 








ti 


o 6 


gl 


Remarks. 




s< 


a> 


C 


jq m 


S3 




s 


a 


3 


e3 


a § 


« 




03 


3 


5 













53 


O 


M 


iz~ 


P 




1852. 






o 




Mis. 




June 29 


8S 


NE. 20° N. . . . 


155 


763 


1 960 


Total distance travelled, 2,693 






NE. 20 E.... 


115 


778 


1 998 


revolutions = 6 miles 917. 






NE. 5 E 


ISO 


512 


1 314 








N. 20 E 


160 


640 


1 653 




July 2 


39 


E 


90 


883 


2 207 


Total distance travelled, 8S3 re~ 












volutions = 2 miles 267. 


4 


40 


NE. 15 E 


120 


753 


1 935 


Total distance travelled, 5,099 






E 


90 


475 


1 218 


revolutions = 13 miles 097. 






SE 


45 
175 


626 
270 


1 617 
693 




N.5E 








E. 20 N 


110 


460 


1 180 








NE. 20 E. , 


115 


669 


1 729 






41 


E 


90 
100 


1,846 
829 


4 741 
2 129 




5 


E. 10 N 


Total distance travelled, 6,055 






E. 10 S .... 


80 


1,067 


2 741 


revolutions = 15 miles 653. 






E. 20 S . 


70 


1,500 


3 853 








E 


90 
170 


609 
1,132 


1 574 

2 906 






N. 10 E, 






42 


S 


360 

100 


918 

1,028 


2 356 
2 639 




6 


E. 10 N 


Total distance travelled, 4,995 






NE. 15 E 


120 


656 


1 694 


revolutions = 12 miles 83. 






NE. 10 E. 


125 


1,083 


2 780 








E. 10 N 


100 


1,115 


2 861 








E. 10 S 


80 


335 


860 






43 


NE 


135 

130 


778 
2,295 


1 997 
5 894 




T 


NE. 5 E 


Total distance travelled, 6,208 






E. 10 S 

E 


80 
90 


691 
538 


1 775 
1 381 


revolutions = 16 miles 046* 






NE. 15 E.... 


120 


973 


2 497 








E. 10 N 


100 


1,049 


2 693 








E. 20 S 


70 


662 


1 711 




3 


44 


E. 10 S 


80 


535 


1 373 


Total distance travelled, 6,848 






E. 20 S 


70 


2,411 


6 191 


revolutions = 10 miles 418. 






E 


90 
60 


1,820 
1,373 


3 3S9 
3 524 






SE. 15 E 








SE. 5E 


50 


709 


1 821 




9 


45 


NE 


135 


600 


1 551 


Total distance travelled, 4,15? 
revolutions = 10 miles 683. 






E. 20 N 


110 


742 


1 905 






E. ION, 


100 


465 


1 192 








NE. 5 E 


130 


994 


2 553 








NE 15 N . . . . 


150 


795 


2 042 








E. 20 S ..... . 


70 


562 


1 446 




10 


46 


SE 


45 


1,962 


5 037 


Total distance travelled, 5,357 
revolutions = 13 miles 76. 






SE. 15 S 


30 


1,205 


8 093 






SE. 7 E 


52 


836 


2 146 








SE 


45 
350 


695 
659 


1 786 
1 702 






s. low 




11 


47 


E 


90 


1,043 


2 677 


Total distance travelled, 4,316 
revolutions = 11 miles 086. 






E. 20 N 


110 


1,034 


2 646 






SE. 15 E 


60 


499 


1 282 






48 


E 


90 
95 


1,740 
2,196 


4 469 

5 640 




12 


E. 5N 


Total distance travelled, 5,604 






E.20 N 


110 


1,209 


3 103 


revolutions = 14 miles 4. 






NE. 21 E 


114 


735 


1 888 








E. 20 N 


110 


692 


1 779 








SE. 10 E 


55 


772 


1 982 




14 


49 


SE. 15 E ' 


60 


909 


2 334 


Total distance travelled, 4,815 






E. 20 S 


70 


810 


2 079 


revolutions = 11 miles 084. 






NE. 5E 


130 


794 


2 039 








N. 20 E 


160 


571 


1 466 








NE. 5 E 


130 


1,231 


3 159 




15 


, 50 


E. ION 


100 


1,916 


4 919 


Total distance travelled, 4,070 






NE 


135 


784 


2 014 


revolutions = 10 miles 454. 






NE. 5N 


140 


663 


1 712 






NE 


135 
110 


473 
1 234 


1 212 
600 






1 E. 20 N...... 





APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 





<£, 






i '%> 










a 






"o tS. 


. 


3 






aS 






fea 










O > 








_ 


iz 


Remarks. 








tb 


QJ ° 








£<! 


§2 


,3 


^ w 










i 


O 


3 


II 


cS 




P 


15 


o 


B 


;z~ 


P 




1852. 






o 




Mis 






July 16 


51 


NE. 15° N . . . 


150 


1,720 


4 


418 


Total distance travelled, 2,915 






NE.5E 


180 


98 





251 


revolutions =1 miles 4S7. 






E 


90 


522 


1 


34 








E. 10 N 


100 


836 





862 








E 


90 


239 





613 




17 


52 


E 


90 


1,844 


4 


734 


Total distance travelled, 4,669 






E. ION 


100 


451 


1 


157 


revolutions =11 miles 993. 






SE. 15 E 


60 


656 


1 


694 








E.5N 


95 


749 


1 


924 








E. 20 N 


110 


969 


2 


489 




18 


53 


N 


180 
160 


895 
620 


2 

1 


299 
602 


Total distance travelled, 8,231 




N. 20 E 


revolutions = S miles 299. 






E. 20 N 


110 


958 


2 


461 






54 


NE 


135 
40 


758 
804 


1 



947 

78 




19 


SE. 5 S , . . 


Total distance travelled, 2,482 






SE 


45 


801 


2 


056 


revolutions = 6 miles 876. 






SE. 15 E 


60 


1,377 


3 


586 




20 


55 


SE. 5 S 


40 


1, 028 


2 


626 


Total distance travelled, 3,602 






N.5E 


175 


614 


1 


587 


revolutions = 9 miles 25. 






E. 10 N 


100 


805 


2 


066 








E. 15N 


105 


1,160 


2 


979 




21 


56 


NE. 5 E 


180 


943 


2 


42 


Total distance travelled, 8,855 






E. 5S 


85 


2,194 


5 


634 


revolutions = 9 miles 902. 






E. 20 S 


70 


718 


1 


843 




22 


57 


SE. 15 E 


60 


2, 099 


5 


392 


Total distance travelled, 7,074 






NE. 5 E 


180 


617 


1 


593 


revolutions = 18 miles 17. 






E 


90 


395 


1 


015 








E.10N 


100 


916 


2 


351 








E 


90 


3, 047 

1,853 

564 


7 


825 




24 


58 


S 


860 

45 


4 
1 


759 
449 


Total distance travelled, 4,957 




SE 


revolutions = 12 miles 734. 






SE. 15 E , 


60 


945 


2 


426 






59 


E 


360 
360 


1,595 
1,209 


4 
3 


096 
105 




25 


S 


Total distance travelled, 5,905 






S. 10E 


10 


1,953 


5 


oos 


revolutions = 15 miles 158. 






SE. 15 E 


60 


675 


1 


783 








SE. 5 S 


40 


855 


2 


197 








S. 10 E...... 


10 


1,213 


3 


115 




26 


60 


NE. 10 E . . . . 


125 


543 


1 


393 


Total distance travelled, 3,827 






NE. 15 E . . . . 


120 


1,784 


4 


5S3 


revolutions = 9 miles SS7. 






NE. 5E 


130 


969 


2 


4S8 








NE. 15 E . . . . 


120 


531 


1 


423 




27 


61 


NE 


135 


737 


1 


892 


Total distance travelled, 5,367 






SE 


45 


641 


1 


656 


revolutions = 13 miles 803. 






E. 10 S 


80 


627 


1 


619 








E. 15 S 


75 


1,820 


4 


675 








NE. 10 E . . . . 


125 


1,542 


3 


961 




28 


62 


NE. 5 E 


130 


3,736 


9 


596 


Total distance travelled, 8,736 
revolutions = 9 miles 596. 



APPENDIX C 



MINERALOGY. 

REPORT ON THE MINERALS COLLECTED: BY PROF. CHARLES 
UPHAM SHEPARD. 

Amherst College, June 1, 1853. 
My Dear Sir : The following report relates to the speci- 
mens collected by Captain Marcy, and which, agreeably to 
your request, were submitted by me to a chemical and min- 
eralogical examination. 

Very respectfully and truly yours, 

CHARLES UPHAM SHEPARD. 
To President Hitchcock. 



1. COPFER ORES— MARCYLITE. 

The most interesting of these was a specimen : of rather 
more than one ounce in weight, from the main or south fork 
of Red river, near the Witchita mountains. It is a black 
compact ore, strongly resembling the black oxide of copper 
from the Lake Superior mines, for which substance I at first 
mistook it. It was partially coated by a thin layer of the rare 
and beatiful atacamite, (muriate of copper of Phillips.) This 
is the first instance in which this species has been detected in 
North America. On subjecting the black ore to a close inves- 
tigation, it proves to be a substance hitherto undescribed, and 
it affords me much pleasure to name it, in honor of the very 
enterprising and successful explorer to whom mineralogy is 
indebted for the discovery, Marcylite. It is massive and com- 
pact ; fracture even ; color black ; opaque ; lustre none ; hard- 
ness equals that of calcite, or 3 of the mineralogical scale ; 
sectile streak shining; powder light grayish black; specific 
gravity, 4.0 to 4.1. In small fragments it melts in the heat of 
a candle, to the flame of which it imparts a rich blue and 
10 



146 APPENDIX C MINERALOGY. 

green color. This is especially striking when a blow-pipe is 
employed. The slightest heat of the instrument suffices for 
the fusion of the ore. The chloride of copper is volatilized, 
and spreads over the charcoal support, from which the splen- 
did green color rises also. On directing the flame of the can- 
dle against it, the mass, or assay, remains for some time fluid, 
continuing to give the color as at first, till finally the green 
and blue tinge declines, and at last disappears altogether; 
after which the globule swells out into large bubbles and sud- 
denly collapses, and this repeatedly for a number of times, 
(ten or fifteen,) when it seems to be pure copper. In cooling, 
however, a thin light steel-gray pellicle forms upon its surface, 
which separates by a slight blow with a hammer, revealing a 
globule of pure copper within. This coating, on being fused 
with borax, gives rise to a colorless glass, with brilliant points 
of metalic copper adhering to the support of subjacent char- 
coal : a fragment heated in a small glass tube before the blow- 
pipe, enters into fusion and evolves much moisture, which 
contains traces of hydrochloric acid. The powdered mineral 
is almost wholly dissolved by ammonia, and the black pow- 
der which remains is slowly taken up by warm nitric acid, 
with the separation of traces of silica. Sulphuric acid dis- 
solves the mineral, with the extrication of hydrochloric acid. 
Analysis gave the following as the composition of the ore: 

Copper . 54.30 

Oxygen and chlorine. 36.20 

Water 9.50 



100.00 



With traces of silica. 

The above is undoubtedly a very valuable ore for copper, 
as it is very rich in metal, and easy of reduction in the fur- 
nace. Numerous specimens of the same ore, but very im- 
pure from an admixture of fine sand, were embraced in the 
collection, as coming from Copper creek, four miles from 
Cache creek. They were in the form of flattened, irregular 
discs, about two inches across and half an inch thick, having 
their surfaces coated by malachite (carbonate of copper) in a 
pulverulent condition. Along with the above, also, were 
found similarly shaped masses of an impure black oxide of 
copper, (coated by malachite,) which had the following com- 
position : 



APPENDIX C. MINERALOGY. 147 

Copper (with traces of iron) ... 35.30 to 40.00 

Silica 30.60 

Oxygen and water 34.10 

100.00 



It is fusible before the blow-pipe, but does not tinge the 
flame blue or green. The fused mass bubbles up for a time, 
and finally yields a globule of copper with a thick crust, 
which is black, and feebly attracted by the magnet. A cop- 
per ore of the average characters of these flattened masses 
Avould yield from 33 to 35 per cent, in the large way. 

Still another variety of copper ore is ticketed " June 3, Gyp- 
sum Bluff" It consists of numerous small fragments of a 
friable finergrained white sandstone, much mixed up with a 
pulverulent malachite, and occasionally presenting specks of 
black oxide of copper. Taken as a whole, I should judge 
that it might be a 5 per cent. ore. 

Another variety still of copper ore, some stones, labelled 
" May 16, first day from Cache creek." They consist of a 
calcareous amygdaloid, through which are interspersed black 
oxide of copper and stains of malachite. Its value for metal 
would not exceed that of the variety last mentioned. 

" May 17 " refers to a compact grayish white limestone., 
much mottled with red. It contains druses of calcite, fibres 
of mesotype, and stains of black oxide of copper. It belongs, 
like the last, to the trappean family of minerals. 



Z. MANGANESE ORE. 



" Copper creek, third day from Cache creek." An impure 
ore. When treated with warm hydrochloric acid, it evolves 
chlorine gas. It contains much silica, and some peroxide of 
iron, with 15,75 per cent, of water and about 10 per cent, 
binoxide of manganese. The specimen is imperfectly folia- 
ted, and, in places, is columnar. It is porous, and of a black 
color, resembling black oxide of copper. It was tested both 
for copper and cobalt, without detecting either. 

3. IRON AND TITANIAN SANDS. 

" July 18, Cache creek, foot of cliff." This is a heavy, 
rather coarse black sand; more than half of which consists oi 
magnetic iron, the remainder being titaniferous iron. It is re- 



148 APPENDIX C MINERALOGY. 

markable for its purity in these two minerals, the most care- 
ful search not resulting in the discovery of other minerals min- 
gled with it, if we except a few grains of quartz labradorite 
and epidote. An ineffectual examination of it was had for tin 
and gold. Another specimen, collected July 16, was tested 
with a similar result. 

4. OTHER MINERALS. 

"May 31." Labradorite in numerous specimens. Its color 
is a dark pearl-blue, or gray ; it does not fire the irridescent 
reflections. From the size and purity of the masses, it would 
appear to be a very abundant mineral, even if it does not 
amount to a rock, throughout the region of the Witchita 
mountains. 

Specimens were collected, bearing the same date, of a red 
cellular limestone, which may have originated, if we suppose 
a soft ferruginous clay to have been parted off by meshes, or 
cell-walls, of calcareous matter, and the clay to have been 
subsequently washed away, or in some manner mostly 
removed. 

" July 15, base of Witchita mountains." Reddish septaria, 
or a mixture of peroxide of iron and calcite, traversed by 
veins of pure calcite, surfaces of the masses somewhat bot- 
ryoidal. A singular variety of cellular quartz, said to have 
occurred in veins in the Witchita mountains, was carefully 
examined for gold, but without the detection of a trace of the 
precious metal, notwithstanding some of the specimens, from 
the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites, 
looked very promising for gold. 

5. SOILS. 

"Sub-soil, Cache creek, May 14; the same as that found 
about the Witchita mountains." The sample had been 
kneaded by the hand into a ball. Its color was reddish 
brown ; it contained no organic matter. Analysis gave the 
following result : 

Silica, (including some fine feldspathic grains) 82.25 

Peroxide of iron 2-65 

Alumina , 0.55 

Carbonate of lime 5.40 

Carbonate of magnesia 1.70 



APPENDIX C MINERALOGY. 149 

Water (hygrometrie moisture).. 5.50 

Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash traces 

98.05 



The soil contains no perceptible traces -of chlorine, or any 
other sulphate besides that of lime. It would appear to have 
an excellent constitution, as a sub-soil, for the cultivation of 
the grain crops, as well as for cotton. It is eminently a cal- 
careous soil, and probably has a sufficiency of potash present 
also ; but the quantity of the material - did not enable me to 
determine the proportion of this constituent. 

" Sub-soil, June 3." This sub-soil is fine grained, and has 
a clayey appearance. Its color is a deep red. Little frag- 
ments of gypsum may be detected scattered through its mass. 
It has the following rather unusual composition : 

Silica 79.30 

Peroxide of iron 8.95 

Alumina 1.50 

Carbonate of lime 1.10 

Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and 

chloride of sodium 4.65 

Water 4.50 

100.00 



APPENDIX 



GEOLOGY. 

MOTES UPON THE SPECIMENS OF ROCKS AND MINERALS COL- 
LECTED : BY EDWARD HITCHCOCK, PRESIDENT OF AMHERST 
COLLEGE. 

Dear Sir : I have done what I could with the specimens 
you put into my hands from the Red river ; but I must con- 
fess, that while these specimens, with the sections and notes 
by Dr. Shumard and yourself, have disclosed some interesting 
and valuable substances, I have found it impossible to solve 
several questions of importance for the want of more speci- 
mens, especially fossils. Without these, you are aware, the 
tertiary and secondary formations cannot be identified with 
any degree of certainty. Yet the whole number of species 
sent me does not exceed half a dozen, and several of these are 
so mutilated that their specific character cannot be deter- 
mined. The two most important formations pointed out in 
your notes, and in the sections, are the gypsum deposite and 
that of coal ; yet from the former there is not in the collection 
more than one species of fossil, and from the latter no speci- 
men whatever ; so that the exact place in the geological scale 
of these two formations is in a great measure conjectural.* 

But notwithstanding these deficiencies, we do get from the 
specimens, and your notes, glimpses of several very valuable 
facts. The four most important points in your discoveries are 
gypsum, copper, gold, and coal. Perhaps I cannot bring out 
my views upon these and other points better than by describ- 
ing the specimens in the order of your march, except where 
that was doubled upon itself. Where I can do it, and think 
it of any service, I shall designate by colors, upon the map of 

* When I wrote the above I was not aware that Dr. Geo. G. Shumard was 
requested to report upon the palaeontology of the exploration. When that re- 
port appears, probably he, or others, can draw more accurate conclusions upon 
some points than I have done. 



APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 151 

your route which you placed in my hands, the most important 
deposites. 

At your starting point, Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, 
you mention a fact of the deepest interest, viz i the occur- 
rence of "large beds of bituminous coal." Dr. Shumard has 
given the following section of the strata at this place : 

1. Sub-soil, arenaceous, and of a red color, three to ten 
feet. 

2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating, four feet. 

3. Seams of bituminous coal, two to four feet. 

4. Fine-grained sandstone, yellowish gray, with fossil ferns ; 
thickness variable. 

5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone, of unknown thickness. 

Dr. Shumard sa} r s that the fossil ferns in this formation be- 
long to "the carboniferous era." He also describes the same 
formation on the third day's march, some fifty miles northeast 
of Fort Belknap, on one of the sources of Trinity river. He 
describes sandstone ibr several subsequent days, some of it 
coarse and highly ferruginous, with ripple-marks, which I 
should suppose might belong to the same coal measures, did 
he not mention that strata of red loam, so abundant in all that 
region, lie beneath the sandstone ; which could not be, if the 
coal belongs to the carboniferous period. Yet he mentions 
that the same formation as that around Fort Belknap is largely 
developed between Fort Washita and Fort Smith, on Ar- 
kansas river. The latter fort is not less than three hundred 
and fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap. On the 3d of May 
he describes "large quantities of ironstone strewn over the 
surface," another accompaniment of the true coal. 

Now, at first view it would seem almost certain that we 
have here a description of a genuine coal formation of the car- 
boniferous period, not less than three hundred and fifty miles 
long, associated, moreover, with those valuable iron ores 
which in other parts of the world are connected with such de- 
posites ; for, in descending through the formation, we find, 
first, overlying shale, then coal, then coal sandstone, or per- 
haps millstone grit, and then perhaps carboniferous limestone. 
But it is well known that coal occurs in other rocks besides 
the carboniferous, as in Eastern Virginia in oolitic sandstone, 
and in other places in tertiary strata. These more recent 
coals are often of great value, as in Virginia ; but they are 
not generally as good as those from the carboniferous strata. 
It becomes an important question, therefore, to determine to 
what geological period the coal under consideration belongs. 



152 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 

A few specimens of the fossil ferns would decide the matter, 
and I trust that Dr. Shumrad is right in referring them to the 
carboniferous era; but it is known that analogous species occur 
in the higher rocks ; and so, coal, even in the tertiary strata, 
is sometimes more or less bituminous. The evidence, how- 
ever, appears to me to be strong in favor of this deposite be- 
ing of the carboniferous age. But in your letter of April 1st, 
you state some facts respecting this coal that have thrown a 
little doubt over my mind. You say that — 

" The coal formation at the Brazos is found in a coarse, 
dark sandstone rock, which is a solid stratum, but is easily 
removed in consequence of being so soft. In excavating for 
a well, we passed through the sandstone and the coal. The 
greater part of the stone was removed with the mattock; and 
in the coal, which was here about sixty feet below the sur- 
face, we found fossil ferns, which, unfortunately, were not 
preserved." 

The ease with which this sandstone was removed, requir- 
ing only a mattock, corresponds better with the hardness of 
tertiary than of carboniferous rocks ; yet, in some parts of the 
world, distant from igneous rocks, the sedimentary strata are 
but little indurated. 

Your statement respecting the cpal on the Brazos, and the 
importance of the substance to the future inhabitants of the 
western side of the Mississippi valley, led me to recur to the 
journals of other explorers, as well as your own from Fort 
Smith to Santa Fe, published by the government in 1850, to 
ascertain whether this valuable mineral does not occur in such 
places as to justify the inference that a large coal field may 
exist in that portion of our country. I have not all of the ne- 
cessary works of reference at hand ; but, in such as I have, I 
have found the following cases, including those already de- 
scribed : 

1. Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, latitude 33|° to 
33f°, longitude 98° to 99°. 

2. Between Forts Washita and Smith, latitude 34° to 35^°, 
longitude 94£° to 96|°. 

3. On Coal creek, near the South Fork of the Canadian, 
eighty-eight miles from Fort Smith, in longitude 96|°, latitude 
34f°. "Bituminous coal, used by the blacksmiths of the 
country, who pronounce it of an excellent quality." (See 
Captain Marcy's report, p. 173.) 

4. North branch of Platte river, latitude 42° to 43°, longi- 
tude 104° to 107° ; described by Rev. Samuel Parker, Ex- 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 153 

ploring Tour, p. 73. He calls this coal " anthracite, me 
same, to all appearances, as he had seen in the coal basins 
of Pennsylvania." 

5. On the same route, Colonel Fremont found coal and 
fossil plants in latitude 41£°, and longitude 111°. The fossils 
greatly resembled those of the true coal measures. He also 
found what was probably brown or tertiary coal, in longitude 
107°. 

6. Major Emory met with "bituminous coal in abundance," 
in latitude 41°, longitude 105°. He was told of a bed thirty 
feet thick. 

7. Lieutenant J. H. Simpson describes bituminous coal in 
beds from two to three feet thick, in latitude 36° 12', and 
longitude 108° 52'; and he states it to be "coextensive with 
the country between the valley of the Rio Puerco and the 
east base of the Sierra de Tunecha, or through a longitudinal 
interval of 7f°." (Report, p. 147.) 

8. Lieutenant Abert found strata, which he regarded "in- 
dubitable proof of the existence of coal," in latitude 36^°, and 
longitude 104£°. (Report, p. 21.) 

9. In 1818, Mr. Bringier described "a large body of blind 
coal (anthracite) equal in quality to the Kilkenny coal, and by 
far the best he had seen in the United States, immediately on 
the bank of the Arkansas, a little above the Pine bayou, five 
hundred miles from its mouth, in latitude 38°, and longitude 
98°." (American Journal of Science, vol. 3, p. 41.) 

10. On Monk's map of the United States, (1853,) I find 
two spots in Texas marked as "beds of coal," one in latitude 
29°, and longitude 100° ; the other in latitude 28£°, and lon- 
gitude 101°. 

I might, perhaps, add, that Dr. F. Roemer describes a belt 
of granitic and palasozoic formations, the latter of carbonife- 
rous limestone and silurian rock, surrounded by a vast deposite 
of cretaceous rocks, between the Pedernales and San Saba 
rivers, in the northwest part of Texas. The occurrence of 
such rocks, especially of the carboniferous limestone, affords 
a strong presumption that the formation that usually lies next 
above this rock exists in that region. 

If, now, leaving out the cases described by Fremont as 
most probably brown or tertiary coal, we locate the others 
mentioned above upon a map of the United States, we shall 
find a region lying between latitude 28f ° and 43°, and be- 
tween longitude 94|° and 109°, containing not less than nine 
deposites of coal, either bituminous or anthracite ; some of 



154 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

them one or two hundred miles long. Its northern limit is 
the north branch of the Platte river ; its eastern limit Fort 
Smith, on the Arkansas ; its western limit in the country of 
the Navajoes, in New Mexico, and even beyond the summit- 
level of the Rocky mountains ; and its southwestern limit the 
Rio Grande, in the southwest part of Texas. These limits 
would give a north and south diameter of one thousand miles, 
and an east and west diameter of six hundred and eighty 
miles ; an extent of surface three times larger than that of all 
the coal fields in the United States hitherto described, which 
cover only two hundred and eighteen thousand square miles. 
Yet, in view of all the facts, I think the geologist will be led 
strongly to suspect that a large part of this vast region at the 
southwest may be underlaid by coal. The larger part may be, 
and undoubtedly is, covered by newer deposites, especially 
the cretaceous and the tertiary ; and doubtless the older rocks 
in Texas, as already described, may in some districts protrude 
through the coal measures. But if coal does actually exist 
beneath the newer rocks, it may be reached, as it has been 
in like instances in Europe, although no trace of it exists at 
the surface. 

The above suggestions may seem to embrace a very wide 
field for a coal deposite. But on locating the several patches 
of coal upon a map of the United States, I was struck with 
one fact. Starting with the beds marked upon Monk's map, 
in the southwest part of Texas, and running the eye along 
the range of carboniferous limestone described by Dr. Roe- 
mer, we come to the coal at Fort Belknap ; next to the exten- 
sive deposite lying between Forts Washita and Smith, in the 
west part of Arkansas; and all the way we find ourselves 
almost in the range of the great coal field of Iowa and Mis- 
souri, as mapped by Dr. Owen; and it seems to me that 
every geologist will at once infer that the Missouri field does 
follow this line, not only across Arkansas, but also through 
the Choctaw Nation, and probably across Texas — interrupted, 
probably, in many places by the protrusion of older rocks, 
and in others covered by newer formations. I have a consid- 
erable degree of confidence that such will ere long be found 
to be the fact, even if we leave out the other coal deposites 
further west and northwest. And should the result of your 
explorations be to bring out such a development, I think you 
must feel rewarded for your fatigues and privations. 

That some of the cases above described may turn out to 
be tertiary coal is quite possible, especially those along the 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 155 

base of the Rocky mountains ; for it is well known that much 
farther to the north such coal is developed on a large scale, 
especially along Mackenzie's river, even to its mouth, on the 
Arctic ocean. Nor is it always easy for those not practised 
mineralogists to distinguish this coal, especially from anthra- 
cite. Dr. Owen describes the southernmost bed of brown 
coal on the Missouri (from four to six feet thick) as having 
"the aspect of ordinary bituminous coal," yet as "smoulder- 
ing away, more like anthracite." (Report, p. 196.) Even 
such coal might be of great value; but I cannot believe 
that much of that described above, especially that on the line 
above indicated, will prove to be tertiary coal. 

I ought to have mentioned, that among the specimens in 
my hands is one of lignite, collected July 3, near the sources 
of Red river, not far from the "Llano estacado," and within 
the limits of the gypsum deposite to be described. It is an 
exceedingly compact coal, and burns without flame, emitting 
a pungent but not bituminous odor. It is doubtless tertiary 
or cretaceous ; but I think, if in large masses, it might easily 
be mistaken for anthracite. 

From the 3d of May to June 2d, the formation passed over 
is, as I judge from Dr. Shumard's sections and descriptions, 
the predominant one along the upper part of Red river. All 
the appended sections of Dr. Shumard, except Nos. VI and 
XI, exhibit the characters and varieties of this deposit. Red 
clay is the most striking and abundant member ; and above 
this we have a yellow or lighter colored sandstone, often finely 
laminated. As subordinate members, we have blue and yel- 
low clay, gypsum, non-fossiliferous limestone, conglomerate, 
and copper ore. Overlying these strata is what Dr. Shumard 
calls " drift," which is surmounted by soil. Excepting the 
gypsum and the copper, no specimen of this formation was 
put into my hands ; and only one petrefaction which is a coral 
from the base of section No. IV, unless the fossil-wood belongs 
to it. 

Now the question is, shall we regard this formation as ter- 
tiary, or cretaceous ? With the means in my hands I feel 
unable to decide this question. If I am right in referring 
the fossil coral found in it to the genus Scyphia, as described 
by Goldfuss, (Petrefacta Germanise, Tab. XXXII, fig. 8,) it 
most probably belongs to the cretaceous period ; for of the 
one hundred and twenty species of this genus enumerated in 
Bronn's Index Paleontologicus, only one is found above the 
chalk. As to the fossil-wood, which I shall notice more par- 



156 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 

ticularly further on, it is well known to occur in almost all the 
fossiliferous deposites. Upon the whole, I rather lean to the 
opinion that these strata may belong to the cretaceous forma- 
tion ; though it is singular, if such be the case, that the fossil 
remains are so scarce, since, as we shall see, they occur 
abundantly in another portion of the field in which the cre- 
taceous rocks abound. 

Under these circumstances I shall speak of this deposite 
under the name of the Red Clay Formation, save where gyp- 
sum is very abundant, and then I call it the Gypsum Forma- 
tion ; and thus have I marked these rocks on your map. 

The sandstone which constitutes the upper part of this for- 
mation has a slight dip, in a few places, of 2° or 3°. On the 
8th of June, however, a grayish yellow sandstone is described 
as having a westerly dip of 40°; and on the 9th of June, " an 
outcrop of finely laminated, red, ferruginous sandstone" is 
mentioned, having an irregular northeasterly dip of 30°, as 
shown on section VI. The next day the strata were found 
standing nearly perpendicular; but whether this sandstone is 
the same as that lying above the red clay, is not mentioned. 
If it is, its great dip probably results from some local distur- 
bance. If it is not, it is probably a protruding mass of older 
rock exposed by denudation or upheaval. 

The branches of Red river have cut deep chasms in this 
formation. In some places they are spoken of as fifty, and in 
others as two hundred feet deep. This clay, worn away by 
the streams, and mechanically suspended, gives that red 
color to the water, from which, without doubt, was derived 
the name of Red river. As to the substances held in solution 
by the waters of that river, some further description will be 
desirable before mentioning them. 

The red clay formation above described abuts against the 
Witchita mountains, occupying the lower and more level re- 
gions around their base. Here we have an outburst of unstra- 
tified rocks, which are satisfactorily represented in the speci- 
mens. 

If the relative position of the red clay and sandstone on 
section XI is correctly shown, I should infer some disturbance 
in the stratified deposites, which would indicate a more re- 
cent upheaval of the mountains than might be inferred from 
the nature of the rocks. The principal one is a red granite, 
with a great predominance of feldspar, and the almost total 
absence of mica. Porphyry also occurs in great quantity, of 
a reddish color, the imbedded crystals, for the most part be- 



APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 357 

ing red feldspar. In the easterly part of these mountains this 
rock is developed on a large scale, forming smooth, rounded 
hills, which slope gradually down to the plain. Cache creek 
passes through one of these hills, forming a gorge from three 
hundred to four hundred feet high, with " smooth perpendicu- 
lar walls." This rock Dr. Shumard calls prophyritic green- 
stone, and one of these walls is shown on section XI. He 
says that the rock is slightly columnar. 

The rocks of these mountains are traversed by veins of 
greenstone and quartz. The latter is often porus and colored 
by the oxide of iron. The greenstone is the. most recent of the 
unstratified rocks among my specimens, save a single vesicu- 
lar mass, broken probably from a boulder, which has all the 
external marks of lava. It looks more like recent lava than 
any specimens I have ever met among greenstone or basalt. 
It was collected June 15th, west of the great gypsum deposite, 
though in. a region abounding with sandstone, and near the 
bluffs that form the border of the " Llano estacado." Dr. 
Shumard found in the bed of the Red river, near the same 
place, what he calls greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and 
trachite. The specimen to which I have referred is rather 
augitic than trachitic. He says, also, that he found there 
"black scoria, and several other specimens of volcanic rocks." 
Again, on approaching the Witchita mountains .on the return 
trip, he descripes one as " a truncated cone, with a basin- 
shaped depression in the summit." Of this he seems to have 
judged by looking at the mountain from a distance. But 
taking all the facts into the account, I cannot but feel that 
there is reason to presume that volcanic agency has been 
active in that region more recently than the trap dykes. 

I ought to add, that before reaching the Witchita mountains 
Dr. Shumard met with large quantities of dark-colored and 
cellular igneous rock, composed principally of si lex and car- 
bonate of lime, strewed over the surface. This was on the 
18th of May, and on the 27th he " frequently encountered 
local deposites of red, scoriaceous rock." Among the speci- 
mens in my hands are some apparently more or less melted, 
composed of carbonate of lime and copper ore. 

Again, scattered widely over the surface, numerous speci- 
mens were found of jasper, cornelian, and agate. The corne- 
lian is deep red, but found in botryoidals, or even stalactitical 
masses, and they have seemed to me to resemble more those 
silicious nodules found is soft limestone than in trap rocks. 
They were found most abundantly towards the western part 



158 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

of the region gone over. I ought to have mentioned that the 
Witchita mountains consist of numerous peaks, rising from 
eight hundred to nine hundred feet above the river. Mount 
Webster, one of the most conspicuous, was found to be 783 
feet above the plain by the barometer. Twelve of these 
elevations were found to be composed of granite, which in 
many places is undergoing rapid disintegration. 

We have seen in the red clay of this region a reason for the 
name of Red river, and the character of its waters. In the 
above description of the rocks of the Witchita mountains, I 
think we may see the origin of the red clay. The great 
amount of iron which they contain would produce exactly 
such a deposite upon their decomposition and erosion by 
water. And we have reason for supposing this red granite to 
be a quite extensive formation, as I shall shortly show. 

No one at all acquainted w T ith the rocks in which gold is 
found can look at the specimens you have obtained in the 
Witchita mountains without expecting that he shall be able to 
detect that metal. The porphyry, the porous quartz from 
veins impregnated with hydrate of iron, and the magnetic 
iron-sand found in the bed of Otter and Cache creeks, excite 
this expectation. - In one of your letters you state that " the 
people of Texas have for a long time supposed that there was 
gold in the Witchita mountains, and they have attempted to 
make several examinations for the purpose of ascertaining the 
fact, but have invariably been driven away by the Indians. 
We searched diligently about the mountains, but could find 
only two very minute pieces imbedded in quartz pebbles." 
This, as Dr. Shumard states, was upon Otter creek, and there 
occurred the ferruginous sand, which occurs also upon Cache 
creek in great quantities. We have not been so fortunate as 
to find any gold in the specimens sent, although the sand has 
been carefully examined, and two assays have been made of 
the quartz in the laboratory. Yet I can easily believe that 
gold must exist either among that black sand, or in the veins 
of ferruginous quartz — sometimes three feet wide — so com- 
mon in the Witchita mountains. 

It is well known that a good deal of excitement exists on 
this subject at the present moment in Texas ; but the " gold 
diggings" there lie upon the upper Colorado. From some 
able remarks on the subject in the " Telegraph and Texan 
Register" of April 29th, by the editor, Francis More, jr., I 
learn that the region where the gold is found is " a belt of fif- 
teen or twenty miles wide, which extends from the sources of 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 159 

the Guadalupe, by the Enchanted Rock, to the head of Cher- 
okee creek, a branch of the San Saba." The description of 
that belt which follows, as you will see, corresponds very well 
to the region around the Witchita mountains. " The red 
granite rocks here crop out above the secondaiy formations, 
and veins of quartz are found traversing the rocks in all direc- 
tions. The soil is generally of a red mulatto color, caused by 
the decomposition of the red feldspar of the granite. These 
rocks resemble, it is said, those of the gold regions of Califor- 
nia and Santa Fe. A gentleman who has recently visited the 
Nueces states that gold has also been found on that river; and 
if the report that gold has been found in the Witchita moun- 
tains be correct, it is possible that this narrow belt of primitive 
rocks extends quite through from the Nueces to those moun- 
tains, a distance of about four hundred miles. It is mentioned 
in Long's Expedition that a narrow belt of red granite is found 
jutting up through the prairie region on the Des Moines river, 
in Iowa, and it is not improbable that this is a continuation of 
the primitive ridge, extending by the Witchita mountains and 
the Enchanted Rock, to the sources of the Nueces, and it may 
extend far above Lake Superior." As to this northern exten- 
sion of these gold-bearing rocks, I do not find much to con- 
firm the conjecture in Dr. Owen's late able report on that 
region, although he does mention some red granite and some 
red clay; but the latter is probably alluvial. Yet, that these 
rocks may extend through Texas, and even much farther 
north, is extremely probable. 

But though your discovery of gold will probably excite 
more attention, I feel that the great gypsum deposit of the 
West, which you have brought to light, will be of far more 
consequence to the country. 

On your map I have colored this formation as you have 
marked it out. Yet I cannot doubt, from the descriptions and 
sections, that the gypsum is embraced in the red clay forma- 
tion already described, for most of this mineral occurs above 
the red clay, though sometimes embraced within it. Yet the 
importance of the gypsum justifies me in coloring that portion 
of these strata as the gypsum formation where it is most abund- 
ant. It is several times mentioned as occurring in other parts 
of the region, marked as red clay. But on the 3d of June, 
high bluffs w T ere met of red and blue clay, with interstratified 
layers of snow white gypsum. From this time till the 12th 
the same formation was found, and also from the 2.1st of June 
to the 9th of July. But your own description of this formation 



160 APPENDIX D.~— GEOLOGY* 

in your leter of November, 1852, contains a better account oi 
its extent than I can give. 

"I have traced this gypsum belt," you observe, "from the 
Canadian river, in a southwest direction, to near the Rio 
Grande, in New Mexico. It is about fifty miles wide upon 
the Canadian, and is embraced within the 99lh and 100th de- 
grees of west longitude. Upon the North, Middle, and South 
forks of Red river it is found, and upon the latter is about one 
hundred miles wide, and embraced within the 101st and 103d 
degrees of longitude. I also met with the same formation 
upon the Brazos river, as also upon the Colorado and Pecos 
rivers, but did not ascertain its width. The point where I 
struck it, upon the Pecos, was in longitude 104|° W. 

" Wherever I have met with this gypsum I have observed 
all the varieties from common plaster of Paris to pure sele- 
nite ; and among specimens of the latter were pieces three 
feet by four, two inches in thickness, and as perfectly transparent 
as any crown glass I have ever seen. It is to be regretted 
that I could not have brought home some of these beautiful 
specimens ; but my means of transportation were too limited. 
I regard this gypsum belt as a very prominent and striking 
feature in the geology of that country. From its uniformity 
and extent I do not think there is a more perfect and beautiful 
formation of the kind known. I have myself traced it about 
three hundred and fifty miles, and it probably extends much 
further." 

The position and thickness of the gypsum beds maybe 
learnt from Dr. Shumard's sections, especially No. V, where 
they are from ten to fifteen feet thick. I do not wonder that 
you have been deeply impressed with the vast extent of this 
deposite. Prof. D. D. Owen, in his late valuable report of a 
geological survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, &c, (1852,) describes 
a gypseous deposite, twenty to thirty feet thick, in the carbon- 
iferous strata, and occupying an area from two to three square 
miles ; and he says that " for thickness and extent this is by 
far the most important bed of plaster-stone known west of 
the Appalachian chain, if not in the United States," (p. 126.) 
Either deposite may be large enough to supply the wants of 
the- inhabitants who ma} T live near enough to obtain it. But 
the vast extent of your deposite (doubtless greater, as you 
say, than is at present known) will make it accessible to 
much the greatest number of people. Indeed, from the well 
known use of this substance in agriculture, as well as other 
arts, a knowledge of its existence must have an important 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 16 1 

bearing upon the settlement and population of northwestern 
Texas. 

The only deposites of g}rpsum known to me that are more 
extensive than the one discovered by you are in South Amer- 
ica. All along the western side of the Cordilleras, especially 
in Chili, and interstratified with red sandstone and calcareous 
slate, beds of gypsum occur of enormous thickness, some of 
them not less than six thousand feet. It has been tilted up 
and metamorphosed greatly by igneous agency of ancient 
date, but seems to be of the age of the lower cretaceous rocks. 
Mr. Darwin, to whose admirable work on the geology of 
South America I am indebted for these facts, has traced thig 
deposite at least five hundred miles from north to south, (it is 
not many miles — sometimes, however, twenty or thirty — -m 
width,) and thinks it extends five hundred more, and perhaps 
much further. He also describes thin beds of gypsum in the 
tertiary strata of Patagonia, and Chili, which are some eleven 
hundred miles in extent. This gypsum is generally more or 
less crystalline, and corresponds much better in lithological 
characters with that in Texas than does the metariiorphiti 
gypsum of the Cordilleras. Mr. Darwin is of opinion, how- 
ever, that the latter was originally deposited in a manner 
analogous to the former, viz : b} 7- means of submarine volca- 
noes and the conjoint action of the ocean. Very probably the 
ancient igneous agency which we have described in the Wit- 
chiia mountains, and along a line southerly to the Rio Grande, 
may have been connected with the production of the gypseous 
deposite in the same region. 

The specimens of this gypsum put into my hands corre- 
spond with your descriptions. One of them, of snowy white- 
ness and compact, it seems to me might answer for delicate 
gypseous alabaster, so extensively wrought in other lands for 
ornamental purposes. The selenite was regarded among the 
ancients as the most delicate variety of alabaster, and was 
employed by the wealthy, and in palaces, for windows, under 
the name of Pkmgites. It has the curious property of ena- 
bling a person within the house to see all that passes abroad, 
while those abroad cannot see what is passing within. Hence 
Nero employed it in his palace. It' the splendid plates which 
you describe occur in any considerable quantity it may here- 
after be of commercial value, as it certainly will be of min- 
eralogical interest. 

From your description, especially in your lecture before the 
American Geographical and Statistical Society, it is manifest 



162 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

that the character of the rocks changes on the northwest of the 
gypsum formation, and near the head of the south branch of 
Red river. The red clay and gypsum have disappeared, and 
sandstone succeeds, but of what age I have no means of judg- 
ing. 

Another interesting mineral found by you in the red clay 
and gypsum formations above described is copper. The spe- 
cimens were put into the hands of Professor Charles U. She- 
pard, who has analyzed them, as well as several other speci- 
mens, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and whose report 
I annex to my own. You will see that he has made free use 
of your name b}>" attaching it to a new ore of copper, found on 
Red river, near the Witchita mountains, and that he describes 
three or four other species of copper ore from the same region. 
For a particular description I refer you to his report, while I 
confine myself to a few remarks as to the geology of the de- 
posite. 

On section V, Dr. Shumard has shown the geological posi- 
tion of this ore, viz : near the bottom of, and in the red clay, 
and more than one hundred feet from the surface. We hence 
see that the ore was deposited from water, although some spe- 
cimens from Cache creek of calcareous amygdaloid seem to 
have been melted. But if, as has been suggested, the gyp- 
sum was produced by the joint action of submarine volcanoes 
and water the copper may have had the same origin, and this 
would explain the presence of chlorine in the Marcylite. 

How much copper may be expected in such a region as 
that on Red river I have no means of judging, because I 
know of no analogous formation. But as we have proof that 
it is an aqueous deposite, and that igneous agency has been 
active not far off, it would not be strange if the vicinity of the 
Witchita mountains should prove a prolific locality. 

The oxide of manganese described by Professor Shepard 
may, perhaps, be found abundant and more pure. And the 
iron-sand, so common in some of the creeks, indicates the ex- 
istence of magnetic oxide of iron in the mountains. 

Whether the red clay formation and the gypsum formation 
that have been described are of the cretaceous age or not, 
there can be no doubt as to the deposites passed over from 
July 20 to Fort Washita, for among the specimens are two 
species of Gryphcea, and one echinoderm, much mutilated, but 
evidently of that period. On the 27th a " bluish gray, highly 
crystallized limestone" was observed, which cropped out be- 
neath the sandstone, and which Dr. Shumard says was "non- 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 163 

fossiliferous." It continued, however, to the 30th, or to Fort 
Washita, where he says, " I observed in it a large number of 
the fossils characteristic of the cretaceous period." Probably 
he refers to two kinds of limestone, and not improbably the 
limestone and sandstone first noticed belong to the carbonife- 
rous strata already noticed. Among the specimens I also find 
parts of two species of ammonite, one quite large, but quite 
characteristic of the cretaceous strata, and resembling some 
good specimens in the collection of the American Board of 
Foreign Missions, obtained by their missionaries in the Choc- 
taw country. I cannot doubt that these strata are largely de- 
veloped in that vicinity. Indeed, that region has already 
been colored as of the cretaceous age upon our geological 
maps. I have, therefore, marked a strip of cretaceous rocks 
between Forts Belknap and Washita. These are, in truth, 
the predominant strata in Alabama, Mississippi, and Texas, 
and I need not go into details respecting them. 

Dr. Shumard frequently speaks of a surface formation un- 
der the name of drift, consisting of boulders of all the rocks 
described above, and some others, such as mica slate and 
labradorite. But I doubt whether this formation be the same 
which we denominate drift in New England — the joint result 
of water and ice — for no example has as yet been found of drift 
agency as far south as Texas by several degrees. Yet there 
is evidence of a southerly movement among the smaller rolled 
detritus almost to the Gulf of Mexico, such as water alone 
could produce, seeming to be the result of the same current, 
destitute of ice, that produced the coarse unstratified and un- 
sorted drift of Canada and New England. But amono- the 
specimens in my hands are several of sillicified wood, and all 
of them, I believe, are mentioned in Dr. Shumard's notes as 
occurring in drift, although in your letter of December 5, 
1852, you speak of masses from fifty to one hundred pounds 
in weight in the gypsum formation. You may mean its upper 
part ;* if so, there may be no discrepancy between the two 
statements ; and I have been led to suspect that what Dr. 
Shumard calls drift may be only a newer portion of the ter- 
tiary strata, although, as already remarked, silicified wood is 
found in almost all the fossiliferous formations. All the speci- 
mens sent by you, however, with one exception, are dicoty- 

* The fossil-wood referred to in Captain Marcy's letter was found upon the 
upper surface of the formation. 



164 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

ledonous. They resemble not a, little the fossil- wood from 
Antigua, and the desert near Cairo, in Egypt, both of which 
deposites are tertiary. One specimen is a beautiful example 
of a monocotyledon, a cross section showing vessels of the 
shape of a half or gibbous moon. This fact shows that the 
climate was warm enough for trees analogous to the palm 
tribe to flourish ; yet the great predominance of dicotyledo- 
nous forms shows a close analogy with the existing vegetation 
of the southern part of our country; nor is there evidence, in 
these specimens, of a temperature above that now existing in 
our southern States, since several species of palms occur 
there. 

The two subsoils analyzed by Professor Shepard, give very- 
interesting results. The first is highly calcareous; and when 
the line shall have been exhausted in the overlying soil, this 
material, thrown up by subsoil ploughing, would be equal to 
a large dressing of lime. In the other subsoil we have an ex- 
traordinary amount of sulphate of lime, and a sufficiency of 
carbonate of lime, as well as chlorine and soda. It seems 
hardly possible to doubt that such a. basis would need only 
organic matter to render it one of the most productive of all 
soils ; and when we think how extensive the gypsum forma- 
tion is from which this subsoil was obtained, we cannot but 
anticipate (unless there are counteracting causes of which I 
am ignorant) that that portion of our country will become a 
rich agricultural district — I mean the region lying east of the 

T 1 1 

" Llano estacado." 

Only one specimen of common salt (chloride of sodium) 
was sent among the specimens, and that, as you inform me, 
" was procured b} r the Comanche Indians in the country lying 
between the Canadian and Arkansas rivers." 

We are now prepared to appreciate an analysis of the 
water of Red river, which has been executed in the labora- 
tory of Amherst College by Mr. Daniel Putnam, under the 
direction of Professor W. S. Clark. This is somewhat of a 
mineral water, and you remark that all the waters originating 
in the gypsum formation have the same bitter and nauseating 
taste. I think you are right in the opinion that the ingre- 
dients are derived from that formation. Analysis shows that 
the taste depends upon the presence of three salts in nearly 
equal proportions, two of which, sulphate and magnesia, or 
Epsom salts, and chloride of sodium, are very sapid. Mr, 
Putnam's analysis is as follows : 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 165 

" Water from Red river — 

Water in fluid ounces 4. 

Weight of water in grammes 127.800 

Weight of chlorine present. -051 

Weight of lime present .033 

Weight of sulphuric acid present .095 

Residue evaporated to dryness, and weighed, 
probably, sulphates of soda and magnesia toge- 
ther, weight -168 

"It was impossible, with the small quantity of water, to determine the last two 
ingredients with absolute certainly. In the calculations following they are re- 
garded as real. Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric 
acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorine as united with sodium, we have 
the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime .080 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia .073 

Weight of chloride of sodium .084 

Weight of the whole .237 

Per-centage of matter in solution, about .19 

" The analysis of the water from a spring in a gypsum cave, yielded the fol- 
lowing results : 

Weight of the water, in fluid ounces 4. 

Weight of the water in grammes, about 127.800 

Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid present .011 

Weight of chlorine .01 4 

Weight of lime 090 

Weight of sulphuric acid .227 

The residue was evaporated, and the presence, but not the weight, of mag- 
nesia, found separate from the soda. The quantity was very small, however. 

Soda and magnesia together, about .130 

" Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric acid as united 
partly with magnesia and partly with soda, and the chlorine with sodium, we 
have the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime .219 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia .088(?) 

Weight of sulphate of soda .073(?) 

Weight of chloride of sodium. .023 

Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid .011 

Weight of the whole .414 

Per-centage of matter in solution .82 

" The analyses of water, on account of the small quantity, cannot be relied 
upon as perfectly accurate ; but they are the best I could make under the cir- 
cumstances." 



166 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

Your account of the remarkable canons of Red river, where 
it comes out from the borders of the " Llano estacado," as 
given in your lecture before the American Geographical and 
Statistical Society, has been read by me with great interest. 
For several years past I have been engaged in studying ana- 
logous phenomena in this, which seems to me a neglected 
part of geology. The canons of our southwestern regions are 
among the most remarkable examples of erosions on the globe ; 
and the one on Red river seems to me to be on a more eiffan- 
tic scale than any of which I have found a description. You 
seem in doubt whether this gorge was worn away by the 
river, or is the result of some paroxysmal convulsion. You 
will allow me to say that I have scarcely any doubt that the 
stream itself has done the work. The fact that when a tri- 
butary stream enters the main river it passes through a tri- 
butary canon, seems to me to show conclusively that these 
gorges were produced by erosion, and not by fractures ; for, 
how strange would it be if fractures should take those ramifi- 
cations and curvatures which a river and its tributaries pre- 
sent. And, moreover, I find cases where I can prove, from 
other considerations, that streams of water (existing and an- 
cient rivers) have eaten out gorges quite as difficult to exca- 
vate as any of the canons of the West. So that, if we must 
admit that rivers have done a work equally great in one case, 
all presumption is removed against their doing the same in 
other cases. I have a great number of facts, which I hope 
to be able, if life be spared, to present to the public on this 
subject ; and I am very glad to add the canons of Red river 
to the number. 

Before Professor Adam's departure for the West Indies last 
winter, I secured his report, hereto subjoined, upon the recent 
shells collected in your expedition. It derives a melancholy 
interest from having been among the last, if not the very last, 
of his scientific efforts, he having been cut off by yellow fever 
in January. 

With this imperfect elucidation of the facts collected by 
you in your laborious explorations, I subscribe myself, 
With great respect, 

Your obedient servant, 

EDWARD HITCHCOCK. 

Amherst College, June 5, 1853. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 167 



Remarks upon the General Geology of the country passed over by the Exploring 
Expedition to the sources of Red River, under command of Captain R. B. 
Marcy, U. S. A. : By Geo. G. Shumard, M. D. 

It is to be regretted that the main objects contemplated by 
the expedition were of such a character as to allow of merely 
a partial geological exploration. It was found necessary to 
traverse a large extent of country in a limited period of time, 
so that not as many opportunities were allowed for making- 
minute and detailed sections of the strata as could have been 
desired. However, it is believed that something has been 
done towards elucidating the geology of a valuable and inter- 
esting district of our country, which hitherto has received but 
little attention from geologists. 

We will first submit a brief account of the geological fea- 
tures of a portion of Northwestern Arkansas, which will ena- 
ble us to understand more clearly the character of the deposites 
observed on the route travelled by the party, and exhibit 
more satisfactorily the connection of the cretaceous group 
with the older or palaeozoic rocks. In Washington county we 
have a fine development of rocks belonging to the carbonife- 
rous period, rising sometimes several hundred feet above the 
water-level of Arkansas river. They consist of beds of dark- 
gray and bluish-gray limestone, surmounted by heavy-bedded 
coarse and fine-grained quartzose sandstone. The ridges of 
highest elevation run nearly north and south through the cen- 
tre of the country, forming a geological back-bone ; the waters 
from one side flowing eastwardly into White river, and on the 
other westwardly into Illinois river, both streams being tribu- 
taries of the Arkansas. 

Wherever the limestone forms the surface-rock, the soil is 
of excellent character, and for productiveness is unsurpassed 
by any in the State; but where the sandstone reaches the 
surface, the soil becomes too arenaceous, and is of inferior 
qualuy for agricultural purposes. The limestone is generally 
highly charged with fossils, and, in many places, beds of con- 
siderable thickness are atmost entirely composed of the re- 
mains of Crinoidea. 

In the lithological and palseontological characters it cor- 
responds very closely to the rocks of the superior division of 
the carboniferous system of Indiana, Kentucky, Illinois, and 



168 



APPENDIX ». GEOLOGY. 



Missouri. The fossils are usually remarkably well preserved. 
The following are the most abundant and characteristic spe- 
cies: Archhnedipora archimides, Agassizocritius dactyliformis, 
Petitaiematit.es sulcatm, Prodv.ct.us cara, P. jmnctalus, P. cos- 
tatus, Tercbratida subtilita, and Terebralula Marcyi* We 
have found all these species associated together in Grayson 
county, Kentucky, near Salem, Indiana, and at Chester and 
Kaskaskia, Illinois. 

The line of junction between the sandstone and limestone 
is well defined, there being an abrupt transition from the one 
into the other. The sandstone has 3 r ielded but few fossils? 
and these only calamites and terns. 

Veins of sulphuret of lead traverse the limestone at several 
points in Washington county, and I have been informed that 
valuable beds of iron ore occur here ; workable seams of bitu- 
minous coal have also been discovered at a number of locali- 
ties in the county. 

Proceeding in a southerly direction through the counties of 
Crawford and Sebastian, the limestone, which, with few ex- 
ceptions, constitutes the surface-rock in Washington county r 
dips beneath the sandstone, and the latter forms the entire 
mass of the hills, rising sometimes to the altitude of a thou- 
sand feet above the adjacent streams : it is, for the most party 
the prevailing rock the entire distance between Fort Smith 
and Camp Belknap. The sandstone is often highly ferrugin- 
ous, and varies in color from light gray to dark brown. It 
exists in heavy massive beds, made up of coarse quartzose 
grains, with intercalations of finer-grained sandstone, occa- 
sionally beautifully ripple-marked. It corresponds in its lith- 
ological features with that forming the Ozark range of moun- 
tains. 

In Sebastian county I found a few Calamites, Lepidodendra r 
and several varieties of fossil ferns of the coal formation, but 
organic remains are by no means abundant. Bituminous coal 
exists in almost inexhaustible quantities throughout the county. 
The seams vary in thickness from a few inches to seven feet, 
and they lie in such a manner that they can be wrought easily. 
Coal has also been discovered at a number of localities be- 
tween Fort Smith and Fort Washita. 

About a hundred miles southwest of Fort Smith we en- 



* Figures and descriptions of the fossils of these beds will be found in the? 
appended report of Dr. B. F. Shumard on the palaeontology of the expedition* 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

countered an outcrop of bluish-gray limestone, wln'ch extends 
across the country in a southeasterly direction for the distance 
of about twenty miles ; it presents an average thickness of 
about ten feet, with a dip to the east of 30°. Its precise 
character could not be determined, as we were unable to find 
any fossils. 

Pursuing the same direction, twenty-five miles beyond is 
an outburst of granite, which extends for the distance of 
twenty-six miles, with a southerly bearing. This is the only 
example of rocks of igneous origin to be met with between 
Fort Smith and Preston, and the rough and rugged features 
of the country where it prevails, forms a striking contrast 
with the comparatively rounded outline of sandstone hills. 
The rock is of a coarse texture, and varies in compactness 
in different portions of the range ; feldspar of the flesh colored 
varieties predominates over the other ingredients. In places 
the rocks would form an excellent and durable building ma- 
terial, but in other portions of the range it crumbles readily 
when exposed to the action of the weather. 

We observed numerous veins of quartz traversing the gran- 
ite in various directions, and, at some points, dykes of com- 
pact greenstone porphyry. Saline springs were found not 
unfrequently issuing from the base of the range, and the 
waters, in one or two instances, were found so strongly im- 
pregnated with saline matter as to induce the belief that they 
might be worked with profit. 

Passing this range the sandstone again reappears, and con- 
stitutes the prevailing rock to within a short distance of Fort 
Washita, where it disappears, and is succeeded b}^ strata of 
the cretaceous period. 

From this point the cretaceous rocks were found to extend 
uninterruptedly until we reached the southwestern boundary 
of the Cross-Timbers, in Texas. From the best information 
I was able to procure, it constitutes the prevailing formation 
from Fort Washita, in the direction of Fort Towson, for up- 
wards of a hundred miles, with an average breadth of fifty 
miles. It forms part of that extensive belt of cretaceous 
strata that extends from Georgia to Texas, and which, from 
the character of its fossil fauna, is now regarded as the equiv- 
alent of the upper chalk of England, and with that division 
of the cretaceous group to which D'Orbigny gives the name 
of VEtage Senonien, (Prodrome de Pakeontologie, tome II, 
page 669.) Wherever sections of the strata were to be seen 
they presented the following characters : grayish yellow sand- 



170 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 



stone, with intercalations of blue, yellow, and ash-colored 
clays, and beds of white and bluish-white limestone. The 
limestone reposes on the clays and sandstones. At some 
points it attains the thickness of a hundred feet, while at others 
it is quite thin, and sometimes even entirely wanting. It is 
usually soft and friable, and liable to disintegrate rapidly 
when exposed to the action of the weather. These creta- 
ceous rocks are often full of fossils. At Fort Washita the 
layers are crowded with Ananchijtcs, Hemiaster, Nucleolites, 
Ammonites, Ostrea, Pecten, &c, descriptions and figures of 
which will be found in Dr. B. F. Shumard's report on the 
palaeontology of the expedition. We saw here some speci- 
mens of ammonites several feet in diameter, and weighing 
between four and five hundred pounds. On Red river, twen- 
ty-six miles from Fort Washita, the sandstone of the creta- 
ceous group supports about twenty-five feet of ash-colored 
calcareous loam, which, on inspection, was found to contain 
terrestrial and fluviatile shell of the genera Lymnea, Physa, Pla- 
norbis, Pupa, and Helix, the whole resembling species which 
we have observed in the loam at New Harmony, Indiana, and 
elsewhere in the Mississippi valley, which Mr. Lyell, during 
his visit to this country, recognised as the equivalent of the 
loess of the Rhine. 

The geological formation, as developed in the vicinity of 
Camp Belknap, consists of nearly horizontal strata of fine- 
grained sandstone, shale, and soft, drab colored, non-fossil- 
iferous limestone, whose relative positions correspond with 
strata of the same character largely developed between Fort 
Washita and Fort Smith. On the surface were in many 
places strewn fragments of a reddish gray, igneous rock, con- 
taining a large per centage of carbonate and oxide of iron. 
From the frequent indications of the presence of that metal 
in various localities of this region it is not improbable that 
this may become hereafter an extensive and profitable field of 
mining enterprise. Recently a number of seams of bitumi- 
nous coal, varying in thickness from two to four feet, as well 
as the characteristic fossil ferns of the carboniferous era, have 
been discovered. 

The following section, taken about one mile from the post, 
may give a better idea of the formation : 

1. Subsoil arenaceous, and of a red color ; thickness from 
three to ten feet. 

2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating ; four feet 
thick. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 171 



3. Seams of bituminous coal, from two to four feet thick. 

4. Fine-grained sandstone, of a yellowish gray color, and 
containing fossil ferns ; thickness variable. 

5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone; thickness unknown. 
The water obtained from springs in this vicinity frequently 

contains iron in solution. I have been informed that in a lew 
instances chloride of sodium has been detected in it. 

May 3.— Formation the same as at Camp Belknap. Ob- 
served, strewn over the surface, large quantities of iron-stone; 
soil and subsoil arenaceous, and deeply tinged with oxide of 

iron. -. 

May 4.— Saw a number of horizontal layers ot coarsely 
laminated sandstone ; between the laminations were observed 
a large number of ripple-marks. Soil good, and of a dark 
color ; subsoil in some places arenaceous, in others argilla- 
ceous, and of a deep-reel color. 

May 5.— For the first six miles the surface became gradu- 
ally more elevated. Here, and elsewhere to-day, we met 
with a number of horizontal layers of coarse-grained and 
highly ferruginous sandstone, which was more or less lami- 
nated, and highly embossed with ripple-marks. In many 
places we met with extensive deposites of porous and dark- 
coloied igneous lock, containing a large per centage of oxide 
of iron. The surface was everywhere strewn witn drift, 
mostly composed of quartz, greenstone porphyry, and granite. 
Saw a number of conical hills, varying in height from ten to 
seventy-five feet, and composed of horizontal layers of sand- 
stone, of the same character as that first met with to-day. 
Owing to the rapid disintegration of the sandstone the hills 
are gradually crumbling away. In many places we found a 
few loose fragments of sandstone, intermixed with sand, the 
only indication left of the previous existence of many of them* 
In this manner has a levelling process gone on for ages, which, 
if not interfered with, will ultimately tend to the removal of 
the various inequalities of the surface of the prairies. Soil 
good; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep red color; this 
mixino- in the form of sediment with the water imparts to it a 
red color and disagreeable taste. From the north branch of 
the Witchita I collected a number of bivalve shells of the 

genus Unto. 

May 6.— Sandstone and drift the same as yesterday, baw 
a number of blufT banks, varying in height from ten to fifty 
feet. They were composed of red loam, the relative position 



172 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

of which was found to be below that of the sandstone. Soil 
and subsoil the same as we passed yesterday. 

May 7. — Formation the same. Drift appears to be gradu- 
ally becoming more abundant. 

May 8. — -During the day we had frequent opportunities of 
observing the sandstone and red loam. Their relative posi- 
tions were the same as before, and dipped in various direc- 
tions at angles of from one to three degrees. Saw a number 
ol small boulders, composed of granite and greenstone por- 
phyry- 

May 9.— Did not move from camp. In the afternoon I ex- 
plored a few miles along the banks of the Big Witchita. 
The geological formation, as there developed, consisted of 
finely laminated, soft, ferruginous sandstone, interstratified 
with red clay, together with drift, which last was much 
coarser than 'any previously observed. Soil good ; subsoil 
loamy. 

May 11.— Formation the same as before. Found a number 
of specimens of peroxide of iron. 

May 12. — Red river, as observed to-day, runs through a 
thick bed of red loam, which, mixing with the water, imparts 
to it highly characteristic red sedimentary properties. Its bed 
was composed of fine sand. After travelling about six miles 
we came to a small creek with highhluffbanks, near the base 
of which I observed a number of specimens of green and blue 
copper ores. Associated with it, as a matrix, was a porous 
and dark-colored igneous rock, containing disseminated parti- 
cles of green copper ore. At this point I had an opportunity 
ot observing the aqueous strata, from which I obtained the 
following section : 

1. Black argillaceous subsoil; six feet thick. 

2. Soft fine-grained sandstone, of a grayish color ; five feet 
thick. 

3. Red and blue clay ; from six to ten feet thick. 

These strata presented an easterly dip of nearly two de- 
grees. I saw during the day large quantities of drift and a 
few small boulders, composed of granite quartz, and green- 
stone porphyry. In a few hours we arrived at Cache creek, 
which runs between high bluff banks composed of red clay ; 
its bottom was thickly strewn with large, angular fragments 
of quarts, greenstone porphyry, granite, and hornblende rock. 
Within a short distance from the creek we found a small 
spring of clear water, which was strongly impregnated with 



APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 1/6 

sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil 
argillaceous, and of a deep-red color. 

May 14. — Did not move from camp. In the evening I rode 
to the junction of Cache creek and Red river, near which point 
I observed a stratum of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone ; 
in some places it was interstratified with red clay, and pre- 
sented a south-southeasterly dip of three degrees, (see section 
No. 3.) Saw scattered over the surface a number of small 
boulders of the same composition as those of yesterday. Soil. 
black and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

May 15. — Did not move from camp ; tested the water of 
Cache creek, and found it strongly alkaline. Its temperature 
was 75° F. 

May 16. — Passed to-day a number of long, low ridges, pre- 
senting on one side a gradual slope towards the prairie-level ; 
on the other, abrupt precipitous terminations. They were, 
for the most part composed of dark colored scoriaceous rock, 
containing a moderate per-centage of copper ore. About 8 
o'clock we came to a small creek, near which I observed a 
deposite of soft granite, which appeared to be undergoing 
rapid disintegration. The banks of the creek were composed 
of horizontal layers of finely laminated sandstone, deeply 
tinged with copper, and resting upon a base of red indurated 
clay. Saw to-day large quantities of drift, containing small 
boulders, composed, as before, of greenstone porphyry, quartz, 
and granite ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

May 17. — Formation the same as on yesterday ; saw strewn 
over the surface a large quantity of reddish-brown and black 
calcareous rock, containing carbonate of copper and small 
crystals of calcareous spar. From the drift (which appears 
to be becoming more abundant and its particles less rounded) 
I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, and cornelian. 
Soil and subsoil arenaceous, and of a reddish color. 

May 18. — Saw a number of .deposites of soft, coarse granite, 
which appeared to be undergoing rapid disintegration. The 
surface presented large quantities of dark-colored and cellular 
igneous rock, composed principally of silex and carbonate of 
lime ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

May 20. — Observed several clear springs bubbling up from 
beneath the surface. Formation the same as before ; soil and 
subsoil arenaceous. 

May 21. — Met to-day with several sections of finely lamina- 
ted sandstone of the same character as that before mentioned, 



174 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

with the exception that the different laminae were thickly 
marked with small circular spots of a green and yellow color. 
In several places I found it interstratified with red clay. Near 
our encampment a fine section, showing an anticlinal axis, 
the strata dipping east and west at an angle of three degrees, 
exposed itself; over the surface were strewn large quantities 
of dark-colored igneous rock of the same character as that 
seen on the 18th instant. The drift was less abundant than 
before ; soil and subsoil arenaceous, 

May 22. — The surface was strewn in many places with de- 
tritus composed of greenstone porphyry and granite ; soil and 
subsoil arenaceous. 

May 23. — Did not move from camp ; in the evening I ex- 
plored Otter creek, which at this point runs between bluff 
blanks composed of red clay. Its bed was thickly covered 
with drift, from which I obtained a number of agates, and two 
small specimens of bluish^ellow quartz, each containing a 
small particle of gold. By digging a few inches below the 
drift, I reached a deposite of black ferruginous sand, which 
upon being stirred, emitted a strong odor of sulphuretted hy- 
drogen gas. From the creek I obtained a number of univalve 
and bivalve shells ; the latter principally of the genus Unio. 

Captain Marcy having to-day visited several of the moun- 
tains, presented me with a number of specimens of soft granite 
of a reddish-brown color, and of which the mountains appeared 
to be composed. 

May 25. — Remained in camp. This afternoon I measured 
with a thermometer the temperature of Otter creek, and found 
it to be 72° F. Immediately adjoining the creek the soil is 
good and very productive ;^but at a little distance from it, it 
is barren and sandy. 

May 26. — To-day we passed a number of sand-hills, vary- 
ing in height from ten to thirty feet. The only rocks met with 
were a few small boulders, composed of quartz and green- 
stone. 

May 27. — The surface was in many places composed of de- 
tritus of granite, quartz, and greenstone ; saw to-day a num- 
ber of boulders, mostly composed of hard granite, and pre- 
senting smooth and polished surfaces. The largest was about 
fifteen feet in circumference, and would weigh probably three 
or four thousand pounds. We frequently encountered local 
deposites of red scoriaceous rock. Captain McClellan having 
visited one of the mountains, presented me with a specimen 
of gray calcareous sandstone, which, as he informed me, he 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 175 

obtained from a horizontal stratum of the same, situated within 
a few feet of the base of the mountain. 

Thus far about twelve of the Witchita mountains have been 
examined, and have been found to present a nearly uniform 
appearance and structure. Composed of fine granite of vari- 
ous degrees of hardness and color, they rise abruptly from a 
smooth and nearly level plain to the height of eight or nine 
hundred feet. Many of them are isolated and of an irregular 
conical shape, while others are grouped together in small clus- 
ters, and are more or less rounded. At a distance they ap- 
peared to be smooth, but upon a near approach their surfaces 
were found to be quite rough, and presenting the appearance 
of loose rock thrown confusedly together. In many places 
the granite was observed occupying its original position, and 
"was variously traversed by joints and master joints, which, 
intersecting each other at right-angles, gave to the mass some- 
what of a cuboidal structure. Soil rich, and from three to 
four feet thick ; subsoil argillaceous and of a red color. 

May 28. — Did not move from camp. In the evening I ex- 
plored a short distance up and down Otter creek ; its bed is 
here composed of horizontal layers of finely laminated sand- 
stone, containing green and yellow spots of the same charac- 
ter as those noticed on the 21st instant. 

May 29. — Passed a number of the mountains, several of 
which I ascended and found composed of hard granite, vari- 
ously traversed by veins of greenstone porphyry and yellow 
quartz; the last containing small scales of mica. The sides 
of the mountains frequently presented lofty precipices, one of 
which was divided from top to bottom by a vein of greenstone 
nearly perpendicular, and about twenty inches thick. I ob- 
served no change in the character of the adjoining prairie, 
except a few local deposites of drift and detritus, from which 
I collected specimens of chalcedony, agate, and jasper. No 
rock of any description was observed at a greater distance 
than a few feet from the base of the mountains. Soil thick 
and fertile; subsoil loamy. 

May 30. — The mountains did not differ materially in ap- 
pearance or structure from those before observed ; at a dis- 
tance, a few of them appeared to present a columnar struc- 
ture ; but upon a nearer approach this was found to be owing 
to divisional plains, or master-joints, with weather-worn and 
rounded edges. I observed to-day a number of clear springs ; 
the water of several being tasted was found to be alkaline. 

In the prairie we observed several circular elevations, va- 



176 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

rying from one hundred to one hundred and thirty yards in 
diameter, and ascending in some places to the height of three 
or four hundred feet above the general level. Upon examina- 
tion, their minora logical composition was found to be the 
same as that of the neighboring mountains. Within a few 
feet of one of these, a small ravine exposed to view a hori- 
zontal stratum of soft ferruginous sandstone. Soil and sub- 
soil the same as on yesterday. 

May 31. — The mountains presented the same general ap- 
pearance 1 as on yesterday. From their surface were exhibited 
a large number of veins, varying in thickness from an inch to 
a toot and a half, and composed of greenstone, quartz and 
hornblende. The prairie was here and there dotted with a 
number of conoid al elevations, varying in height from twenty 
to one hundred feet. In composition they agreed in every re- 
spect with the neighboring mountains, with which in origin 
they appeared to be cotemporaneous. From the drift I col- 
lected specimens of fossil-wood. The water of springs issu- 
ing from the mountains I found, upon test, to be alkaline. 

June 1. — Red river, as observed to-day, runs between low 
bluff banks, composed of red clay. Its bed was in some places 
thickly strewn with large detached masses of granite, all pre- 
senting a highly water-worn appearance, and seeming to have, 
been derived from a neighboring mountain. Soil and subsoil 
the same as before. 

June 2. — Immediately upon leaving the Witchita mountains, 
we lost all traces of drift and other igneous rocks. Red river, 
as observed to-day, runs between high bluff banks, composed 
of horizontal layers of red, yellow, and blue clay, and finely 
laminated sandstone ; the latter being interstratified with thin 
seams of saccharoid gypsum. (See section No. 4.) About a. 
mile from the river we observed two conical hills — one fifty 
and the other eighty feet in height — composed of horizontal 
layers of sandstone, interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. 
From them I obtained specimens of selenite. Soil and sub- 
soil loamy. 

June. 3. — To-day we came to a range of high bluffs about 
six miles in length, and extending in a direction nearly par- 
allel with the river. At a distance they resembled a long line 
of fortification ; upon examination they were found to be com- 
posed of 'horizontal layers of red and blue clay, thickly inter- 
stratified with snow-white gypsum, (see Section No. 5.) 
These bluffs appear to be rapidly yielding to the weather: 
along their base were thickly strewn large cuboidal masses 



APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 177 

of gypsum — some ten feet in diameter — that appeared to have 
been but recently detached from a stratum of the same near 
their summits. In the blue clay I observed a thin seam of 
carbonate of copper. The gypsum was also in a few places 
slightly tinged with the same metal. In a southerly direc- 
tion, and at the distance of about fifteen miles, we observed 
another range of gypsum bluffs: they appeared to run in a 
direction parallel with those already described. The inter- 
vening country was very rough and broken. Soil dark and 
fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

June 4. — Passed a number of bluffs of the same composi- 
tion as those observed yesterday. The surface during the 
greater portion of the march was whitened by gypsum, which 
was always found occupying its position above the red clay. 
In the evening I visited a small hill, situated about three 
miles from camp, and succeeded in discovering a thin seam 
of copper ore, as well as large beds of selenite. Soil and 
subsoil the same as on yesterday. 

June 5. — The country travelled over to-day was mostly 
composed of sand-hills, varying in height from ten to sixty 
feet. On the middle branch of Red river we saw long ranges 
of bluffs, which, upon examination, proved to be of the same 
character and composition as those seen on the 3d instant. 
Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

June 6. — To-day we passed a number of bluffs composed 
of red clay; I did not observe any gypsum in their composi- 
tion. As we progressed the country gradually became more 
elevated. Here, for the first time since leaving the Witchita 
mountains, we met with large quantities of drift, composed 
principally of quartz and mica-schist. On Red river we saw 
a fine section, fully exposed, showing a horizontal sub-stratum 
of coarse-grained sandstone, overlaid by drift; the latter forty 
feet thick. 

June 7. — Formation the same as on yesterday. 

June 8.— -Passed a number of ravines, the sides of most of 
which were composed of red clay. At about 8 o'clock we 
came to a small eminence in the prairie, near which I ob- 
served an outcrop of grayish-yellow sandstone, presenting a 
dip of forty degrees to the west. The surface was thickly 
covered with drift. I saw a number of boulders composed 
of coarse and fine conglomerate, the largest of which meas- 
ured fifteen feet in diameter. At 9 o'clock we came to a 
small creek, with high banks composed of gray calcareous 
loam, from which latter I obtained a number of shells, char- 
12 



178 APPENDIX D.— GEOLOGY. 

aeteristic of the loess formation; Helix pleheium, Succinea 
elongata, &c. Soil barren and sandy ; subsoil in some places 
argillaceous, in others arenaceous. 

June 9. — Passed to-day a number of small ravines, the 
sides of which were composed of red clay, overlaid by sand- 
stone and drift. The surface was in many places covered 
with sand-hills, varying from ten to fifty feet in height. 
About 8 o'clock we came to an outcrop of finely laminated 
red ferruginous sandstone, presenting an irregular dip to the 
northeast of about thirty degrees, (see Section No. 4.) Soil 
arenaceous ; subsoil in many places argillaceous. 

June 10. — Formation the same as on yesterday. We fre- 
quently found the sandstone exposed and exhibiting evidences 
of violent disturbance, the strata being variously fractured, 
and in some places upheaved in such a manner as to stand 
almost perpendicular. With the exception of the creek bot- 
toms, the soil was sandy and barren ; subsoil the same as 
before. 

June 11. — The surface to-day presented nothing but a suc- 
cession of hills composed of blown sand, varying in height 
from ten to one hundred feet. No sandstone or drift was any- 
where observed. 

June 12. — To-day I observed large quantities of drift, of the 
same composition as before ; through it were scattered small 
boulders, composed of quartz and mica-schist. The surface 
was in many places covered with loose fragments of carbon- 
ate of lime. The particles composing the drift were fre- 
quently thickly coated with the same substance. Soil and 
subsoil arenaceous. 

June 13. — Did not leave camp. 

June 14. — Drift and limestone the same as before. About 
7 o'clock we came to a small ravine, the sides of which ex- 
posed a horizontal stratum of coarse-grained sandstone twenty 
feet thick. From the drift I obtained specimens of agates, 
chalcedony, and fossil-wood. Soil and subsoil the same as 
before. 

June 15. — The country travelled over to-day was every- 
where divided by ridges and ravines ; the former sometimes 
sloping gradually on either side — at others presenting abrupt 
precipitous terminations. Besides these, a large number of 
sand-hills, varying in height from twenty to one hundred feet, 
were observed. The sandstone was frequently exposed. In 
a few places I found it interstratified with coarse conglome- 
rate; saw a number of small boulders, composed mostly of 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 179 



greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and trachyte. In the bed 
of the river I found a large mass of black scoriae and several 
other specimens of volcanic rocks. Drift the same as on yes- 
terday ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

June 16.— The surface was broken, and presented a num- 
ber of sand-hills. Saw to-day large quantities ol drift, which 
did not differ in composition from that previously noticed. At 
about eight o'clock we came to a long range of high blurts, 
which, as we afterwards ascertained, marked the borders o 
the " Llano estacado." They were composed of horizontal 
layers of drift, sandstone, and yellow clay, (see Section No. 
7,1 all of which seemed to be rapidly yielding to the weather. 
At the base of the bluffs I observed a few small boulders 
composed of greenstone porphyry. Soil and subsoil sandy. 

j me 20.— During the first part of our route we travelled 
over a hilly and broken region, consisting for the most part ot 
a succession of sand-hills, varying from ten to one hundred 
feet in height. At the distance of five miles we reached a 
gradual ascent, which soon led us to the summit ot a high 
and slightly-rolling plain : over its surface were scattered a 
great many fragments of white carbonate of lime, as well as 
drift. From the latter I obtained specimens of agate, chatee- 
donv, &c. During the day I had frequent opportunities ot 
observing the formation, which uniformly consisted ot drift, 
interstratified with horizontal layers of red and yellow clay. 
Sometimes the drift exhibited a calcareous coating, the same 
as before described. . 

June 21.— Passed to-day a number of drift-hills, varying m 
height from twenty to one hundred feet. The surface was 
very much divided by ravines, with perpendicular sides, com- 
posed mostly of red clay, and varying in depth from ten to 
fifty feet. Near our encampment I observed a horizontal sec- 
tion of yellow loam, coarse conglomerate, and red clay; the 
last thickly reticulated with gypsum, and overlaid by a termi- 
nating stratum of the same, (see Section No. 8.) Soil and 
subsoil arenaceous. 

June 22.— Passed a large number of drift-hills. The coun- 
try, as on yesterday, was very rough, and much divided by 
ravines, some of which were fifty feet ' deep. Their sides 
were generally composed of red clay, overlaid by drift ; in a 
few instances they exposed seams of gypsum. From the 
drift I obtained specimens of fossil- wood, agate, jasper, and 
a few water-worn fossil shells of the genus Ostrea. Soil and 
sub-soil the same as before. ; 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

June 23. — To-day we observed the gypsum frequently 
exposed. It did not differ in character from that previously 
described, and was always found overlying the red clay. 
Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

June 24. — The surface was in many places thickly strewn 
with loose fragments of white carbonate of lime. About seven 
o'clock we reached, after a gradual ascent, a high, level, and 
very fertile plain, from which we obtained an extensive view 
of the surrounding country, which was very hilly, and divided 
by numerous ravines. The plain, at its termination, present- 
ed a long line of high bluffs, composed of horizontal strata of 
drift, finely laminated sandstone, white limestone, conglomer- 
ate, gypsum, and red and yellow clay, (see Section No. 9.) 
The red clay was thickly interstratified with thin seams of 
gypsum. From the drift I obtained specimens of agates, fos- 
sil-wood, jasper, and chalcedony. Soil and subsoil the same 
as before. 

June 25. — The country travelled over to-day was very hilly 
and broken, being much divided by long, narrow ravines, 
with nearly perpendicular sides, composed of red clay — some 
of them being over one hundred feet deep. In many places 
we were surrounded by high bluffs. The drift was found to 
be unusually abundant — in some places fifty feet thick, and 
much coarser than before met with. At about eleven o'clock 
we came in sight of the valley of the Dogtown river. On 
either side it was bounded by long lines of bluffs, in compo- 
sition similar to those previously noticed, and varying in height 
from one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet. From the 
drift we obtained specimens of chalcedony, agates, silicified 
wood, and jasper, besides a large number of shells of the 
same character as those observed on the 22d instant. The 
beds of the different streams crossed were covered with black 
ferruginous sand. Soil good, consisting of a rich black mould; 
subsoil argillaceous. 

June 26. — For the first few miles the country was hilly and 
very much divided by ravines, some of which were two hun- 
dred feet in depth. The strata exposed by them were inva- 
riably found to" consist of horizontal layers of red clay, gyp- 
sum, and drift, each occupying the same relative position as 
shown in Section No. 9. 

June 27. — Formation the same as on yesterday. At ten 
o'clock we came to Dogtown river, the bed of which was 
composed of yellow sand, intermixed in some places with red 
clay, and covered with small shining particles of gypsum. I 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 181 

observed in the drift large quantities of red and yellow jasper. 
Soil fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

June 28. — Saw a large number of drift-hills, varying in 
height from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. After travel- 
ling a few miles we again came to the borders of the "Llano 
estacado," which here presented a long line of bluffs six hun- 
dred feet high, and composed of horizontal layers of drift and 
sandstone, interstratified with white limestone. From the base 
of the bluffs to the river the country presented a gradual slope 
of four hundred feet. 

Section No. 10 is intended to represent the geological form- 
ation from the river level to the summit of the bluffs; the 
inferior strata, or those between the base of the bluffs and the 
river, having been ascertained, from numerous observations, to 
consist of gypsum and red clay. From the drift I obtained 
specimens of chalcedony, jasper, granite, and obsidian. 

July 4. — The formation, as observed to-day, consisted of 
red clay, gypsum, and drift: they were all found occupying 
the same relative positions as before. Soil mostly fertile ; sub- 
soil argillaceous. 

July 5. — Observed in the prairie a circular outcrop of finely 
laminated calcareous sandstone about three hundred feet in 
diameter, and presenting a quaquaversal dip of forty degrees. 
Over the prairie were strewn a number of small boulders 
variously composed of mica-schist, greenstone, and quartz. 
Red clay, gypsum, and drift, the same as before. Soil and 
subsoil arenaceous. 

July 6. — Observed a number of hills, varying in height from 
fifty to one hundred feet; in form they resemble truncated 
cones, and were composed of horizontal layers of sandstone 
and red clay. General formation the same as before. Soil 
in some places fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 7. — With the exception of the drift, which appears to 
be rapidly diminishing in thickness, the formation did not 
differ from that previously observed. The surface was every- 
where whitened with beds of gypsum and loose fragments of 
carbonate of lime. The former varied in thickness from five 
to fifteen feet; in it were observed large quantities of selenite. 

July 8. — The formation was mostly composed of red clay, 
with a few local deposites of soft carbonate of lime and dark- 
colored cellular sandstone. Saw no drift or gypsum to-day. 
Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 9. — Again came in sight of the Witchita mountains : 
the one nearest to us presented the form of a truncated cone, 



182 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

with an irregular basin-shaped depression upon the summit. 
The formation everywhere consisted of red clay; in a few 
places it was overlaid by thin seams of gypsum, containing 
selenite. I observed a number of local deposites of white 
carbonate of lime. Like the gypsum, it was found overlying 
the red clay. On our route we passed four conical hills, from 
fifty to seventy feet high, and composed of red clay, interstra- 
tified with dark-colored porous sandstone. Observed no drift 
to-day. Soil dark and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 10. — Formation the same as on yesterday. Soil dark 
and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 11. — Formation the same as before. 

July 12. — To-day we met with no gypsum. At about 9 
o'clock we came to Otter creek; its bed is here, as well as 
elsewhere, composed of finely laminated sandstone, contain- 
ing small circular spots of a greenish color. In many places 
this was covered to the depth of a few inches with drift and 
detritus. Soil fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 14.— Renewed the observations of May 23d, 24th, 
25th, 26th, and 27th. 

July 15. — To-day we passed a number of the Witchita 
mountains, but observed neither in their composition nor gen- 
eral appearance anything different from what had been pre- 
viously noticed. Near the base of one of them I observed a 
nearly horizontal stratum of sandstone, underlaid by red clay. 
The ground was in several places covered with loose frag- 
ments of gypsum, some of which were found to contain slight 
traces of copper. In one of the creeks I observed a small 
deposite of black ferruginous sand. Soil black and fertile ; 
subsoil argillaceous. 

July 16. — The only difference presented by the mountains 
seen to-day, from those previously observed, consisted in the 
greater number and size of the quartz veins; many of them 
were nearly perpendicular, and extended from near the base 
of the mountains to their summits; while others, pursuing a 
more or less serpentine course, frequently intersected each 
other at right-angles. The largest was highly ferruginous, 
presented a more or less cellular structure, and was nearly 
three feet wide. A few feet from the base of one of the 
mountains I observed a horizontal stratum of coarsely lam- 
inated sandstone of a yellowish color, and including in its 
composition small angular fragments of granite of the same 
character as that of the neighboring mountains. To-day I 
examined several of the head branches of Cache creek. Their 



APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 183 

beds were thickly strewn with large angular fragments of 
quartz, greenstone, and porphyry. In each of them I ob- 
served large quantities of black ferruginous sandstone. Soil 
fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 17.- — In a number of places the sandstone was ex- 
posed ; it did not differ in character and composition from 
that seen the day before. In one place the strata, still pre- 
serving their horizontal character, presented abruptly to the 
side of a mountain. Many of the mountains presented a 
marked difference in character and composition from any that : 
had been previously observed: instead of displaying a rough 
and broken exterior, they were more or less rounded, and? 
exhibited a gradual slope to the prairie- level, while the gran- 
itic structure almost entirely disappeared, its place being occu- 
pied by that of fine porphyry of a reddish color. Scattered 
over the prairie were observed a great many fragments of. 
granite, greenstone porphyry, and quartz. The beds of the 
different creeks were in many places covered with black fer- 
ruginous sand, as well as large fragments of quartz, porphyry, 
and hornblende. Soil black and very fertile ; subsoil argilla- 
ceous. 

July 18. — The mountains presented the same appearance 
and structure, as on yesterday. At about 8 o'clock we ar- 
rived at Cache creek; its bed was thickly strewn with black 
ferruginous sand and large fragments of igneous rock. From 
the. water's edge rose abruptly a long line of smooth perpen- 
dicular cliffs, varying in height from three to four hundred, 
feet, and having in some places a slight columnar structure, 
(see Section No. 11.) Upon examination they were found to. 
be composed mostly of fine porphyry of a reddish color, which, 
was traversed by parallel and. nearly perpendicular veins of 
cellular quartz, varying in thickness from two to three feet. 
Upon its exterior the quartz presented a deep iron-rust color; 
but when recently fractured, it exhibited various shades of 
gray and brown, together with small shining particles of sul- 
phuret of iron. Soil fertile, and in some places three feet 
thick; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 19. — I spent the greater part of the day in exploring. 
Cache Greek, About one mile below, our present encamp- 
ment I came to the termination of the cliffs. A short distance 
below this I observed a nearly horizontal stratum of coarsely 
laminated sandstone, fifty feet thick, and including in its com- 
position fragments of igneous rock of the same character as 
that composing the cliffs ; the intermediate space being occu- 



184 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 

pied by red clay, which, as before, appeared to underlie the 
sandstone, (see Section No. 11) 

July 20. — Two miles below our camp of last evening I 
observed a section composed of horizontal layers of gray sand- 
stone, containing in its composition small fragments of igneous 
rock. Six miles from this we struck a seam of gypsum, vary- 
ing in thickness from six to twelve inches. Soil fertile ; sub- 
soil composed of red and yellow clay. 

July 21. — During the day we met with frequent exposures 
of the sandstone and gypsum. They presented, however, 
nothing different from what has already been described. Soil 
and subsoil the same as on yesterday. 

July 22. — Formation the same as on yesterday. 

July 23. — Did not move from camp. 

July 24. — The sandstone appears to be gradually becoming 
more abundant, while the red clay is less frequently observed 
than before. Saw no gypsum to-day. Soil fertile, and in 
some places six feet deep ; subsoil composed of yellow clay. 

July 25. — Passed a number of small conical hills composed 
of red clay, overlaid by sandstone. The latter was highly 
ferruginous, and contained nodular concretions of iron. Soil 
and subsoil the same as on yesterday. 

July 26. — Formation the same as before. 

July 27. — At about 8 o'clock we came to an extensive out- 
crop of bluish-gray, non-fossiliferous limestone, which pre- 
sented in many places a highly crystalline structure. Its 
relative position was found to be below that of the sandstone. 
Passed a number of hills, varying in height from one to two 
hundred feet, and composed of limestone, overlaid by finely 
laminated sandstone. Soil fertile ; subsoil the same as before. 

July 28. — To-day the sandstone disappeared almost en- 
tirely, its place being occupied by limestone of nearly the same 
character as that encountered yesterday. Soil and subsoil 
the same as before. 

July 29. — Remained in camp. 

July 30. — To-day we again observed the limestone in great 
abundance. It presented nothing different in character from 
that previously described. The sandstone and red clay were 
also in many places largely developed. Soil very fertile ; 
subsoil same as before. Started from camp at four o'clock in 
the afternoon. For the first few miles we found the sandstone 
largely developed; after passing which, we came to an out- 
crop of limestone of the same character as that previously 
noticed. It presented itself even with the surface at an angle 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 385 

of thirty degrees, and was over a mile wide. Immediately 
beyond this we came to a deposite of coarse granite of a red- 
dish color, and variously traversed by veins of quartz. This 
remarkable formation (as I have been informed) extends 
about twenty-six miles in an easterly and westerly direction, 
and is nearly six miles broad. Throughout its entire extent 
it is said to present the same character, and is everywhere 
surrounded by aqueous strata. I observe to-day in one of the 
creeks several boulders, composed of milky quartz ; the largest 
was four feet in diameter. Soil and subsoil the same as 
before described. 

July 31. — Shortly after starting this morning we again struck 
the limestone formation, which continued to be largely de- 
veloped during the remainder of the distance to Fort Washita. 
In it I observed a large number of the characteristic fossils of 
the cretaceous period. 



APPENDIX E. 



PALAEONTOLOGY. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE SPECIES OF CARBONIFEROUS AND --CRE- 
TACEOUS FOSSILS COLLECTED : BY B. F. SHUMARD, M, Dv 



FOSSILS OF THE CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM. 

CRINOIDEA. 

Cyathocrinos grantjliferus, Yandell and Sham., mss. 

Paleontology, PI. — , fig. — . 

The collection contains a single pentagonal plate of this 
beautiful encrinite, a perfect specimen of which we found 
several years since in the superior carboniferous strata near 
the summit of Muldrow's Hill, in Kentucky. The costal 
plate from Arkansas exhibits granules regularly dispersed in 
rows over the surface, which radiate from the centre to the 
sides of the pentagon. 

It occurs in Washington county, Arkansas, in grayish 
earthy limestone, associated with Pro&uctus -punctatus, Tere- 
bratula subtilita, and Spirifer striatus. 

Agasstzocrinus dactyliformis, Troost, mss. 

Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig. 7. 

Cup conical, composed of three series of pieces ; plates 
massive, smooth, moderately convex ; column none ; pelvis 
composed of five pieces, quadrangular, greatest width near 
the upper edges ; second series of pieces five, pentagonal, 



APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 187 

length and breadth about equal ; length of pelvis three lines, 
greatest width five lines ; length and breadth of second series 
of pieces about three lines. 

We regret that the specimens of this crinoid from Arkan- 
sas are all imperfect, consisting only of detached portions of 
the cup. It is a fossil peculiar to the western and southwest- 
ern States, and eminently characteristic of the superior mem- 
bers of the carboniferous strata, occurring in some localities 
very abundantly. The genus is remarkable, from the fact of 
its being destitute of a column, in which respect it differs from 
all known carboniferous crinoids. In young individuals, the 
division of the pelvis into five pieces is well marked ; but in 
adult age they are usually firmly anchylosed, and often all 
traces of sutures are obliterated. In the centre of the pelvis 
we observe a small cylindrical tube running nearly its whole 
length, closed below, but communicating above with the 
cavity of the cup by a small opening. This structure, prob- 
ably the nucleus of a column, is only visible when the plates 
are separated. 

It is associated with the preceeding species, in the carbon- 
iferous beds of Washington county, Arkansas. 

Pentremites florealis, Say. 

Pentremites florealis, Say, 1820, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sciences, 
IV, 295. 

Petitatrematil.es florealis, Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 
33, taf. i. fig. 1 — 4, taf. ii, fig. 8. 

This well-known species is quite common in Washington 
and Crawford couties, Arkansas. The specimens furnished 
by my brother are rather more globose than those from local- 
ities in Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois. 

Pentremites sulcatus, F. Roemer. 

Pentatrematit.es sulcatus, F. Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. 
p. 34, taf. iii, fig. 10, a — c. — Id. Lethaea Geognostica, taf. 
iv, fig. 8, a. b. 

We have some doubts as to whether this pentremite is en- 
titled to rank as a distinct species, or whether it should be 
regarded as merely a variety of P '. florealis, which varies con- 
considerably in different localities. The form under consider- 



188 APPENDIX. PALAEONTOLOGY. 

ation has generally been referred to P. globosus, Say, by 
western geologists, from which, however, it is quite different. 
Mr. Say's description of P. globosus was drawn from a speci- 
men which was brought from Bath, England. 

It is associated with the preceding species in Washington 
county, Arkansas. 



BRYOZOA. 

Archimedipora archimedes, Lesueur. 

Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig. 6. 

Retepora archimedes, Lesueur, 1842, Amer. Jour. Science, 
XLIII, 19, fig. 2. 

Archimedipora archimedes, D'Orbig., 1849, Prod de Palseont. 
I, 102. 

A fossil peculiar to the carboniferous strata of the western 
and southwestern States. The associate fossils are Pentre- 
mites jlorealis, Produclus pwictatus Spirifer striatus and Orthis 
Michelini. D'Orbigny, in his Prodrome de Palaeontologie, 
cites this fossil from rocks of the Devonian period, in Ken- 
tucky. This is an error ; we believe it has not been found 
lower in the series than the encrinital limestones which repose 
on the fine-grained micacious sandstones of the knobs of Ken- 
tucky and Tennessee. 

It occurs in dark-grayish carboniferous limestone, in Wash- 
ington county, Arkansas. 



•BRACHIOPODA. 
Pruductus punctatus, Martin.* 

Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 5, and PI. 2, fig. 1. 

This Productus has a wide geographical as well as vertical 
range in the United States ; it is also widely distributed through- 

*For synonyms and references, vide Koninck's Monog. du Genre Productus 
et Chonetes, p. 123. 



APPENDIX. PALAEONTOLOGY. 189 

out Europe. In this country we find it commencing with the 
earliest carboniferous deposites, and extending through all the 
limestones of this system to the coal measures. 

Figure 1 of plate 2 represents the ventral valve of a speci- 
men from Washington county, Arkansas; and figure 5 of plate 
2 an individual showing the hinge line and the form of the 
beak. 

Productus cora, D'Orbig. 

Prod, cora, D'Orbig., 1842, Palaeont. Voy. dans l'Amer. 
Merid., p. 55, pi. 5, fig. 8, 9, 10. 

P. tenuistriatus, Verneuii, 1845, Geol. Russ. et. Ural., vol. 2, 
p. 260, pi. 16, fig. 6. 

P. cora, Koninck, 1847, Monog. du Genre Prod, et Cho- 
netes, p. 50, pi. iv. a, b, et pi. v, fig. 2, a — d. 

The specimens from Arkansas are all imperfect, yet they 
are plainly referable to this species. It is one of the most 
characteristic fossils of the carboniferous beds of Kentucky, 
Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri. It occurs in Washington and 
Crawford counties, in gray sub-crystalline limestone. 

Productus costatus, Sowerby.* 

Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 2. 

This Productus occurs with the preceding species, in Wash- 
ington county, Arkansas, and, like it, has a very extended 
geographical range in this country and Europe. 

Terebratula subtilita, Hall. 

Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 8. 

Terebratula subtilita, Hall, Stansbury's Expedition to Great 
Salt Lake, 409, pi. xi, fig. 1, a— b, 2, a— c. 

This shell is very common in the superior members of the 
carboniferous formation in Illinois, Indiana, and Kentucky, 



*For synonyms and references see Koninck 's Monog. du Gen. Prod, et Cho- 
netes, p. 92. 



APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 

where it usually is found with Archimedipora archimedes, Pen- 
tremites jlorealis, and Productus punctatus. Its vertical range 
rather limited, it constitutes one of the most useful guides . in 
studying the relative position of the various members of the 
carboniferous strata. This shell is very variable in its char- 
acters, so that we are liable to multiply species from its va- 
rieties, unless a number of specimens are under examination. 
Some individuals are very much inflated ; the dorsal valve 
exhibits a profound sinus, and the ventral valve a correspond- 
ingly elevated ridge. Others are depressed, with scarcely 
any sinus or bourrelet. The specimens I have seen from Ar- 
kansas arc considerably mutilated. Occurs in Washington 
county. 

Terebratula marcyi, Shumard. 

Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig 4, a, b. 

Shell small, ovate elongate, moderately convex, sides and 
front neatly rounded ; dorsal valve regularly convex, rather 
more gibbous than the opposite valve, greatest height near the 
beak, no traces of sinus ; beak elongated, elevated incurved, 
no perforation visible in our specimens ; ventral valve without 
median ridge, pointed at summit, cardinal border slightly sinu- 
ous. Surface of each valve marked with from thirty-four to 
thirty-eight simple rounded strias, which commence at the 
beak and proceed to the lateral borders and front with division. 
In general form it resembles T. serpentina of Koninck, (Descr. 
des Animaux fossiles, 29, pi. xix, fig. 8, a — e,) but its smaller 
size and the lesser number of striae will serve to distinguish it. 

It occurs with Ttrebratula subtilita and Productus yunctatus 
in Washington and Crawford counties, Arkansas, in dark- 
grayish carboniferous limestone. We have found the same 
species in Floyd country, Indiana. 



Spirifer, (indet.) 

Paleontology, PL 1, fig. 3. 

In the collection from Washington county are several casts 
of a spirifer like that which we have figured. They are all 

too imperfect for description. 



APPENDIX E. PALjEONTOLOGY. 



FOSSILS OF THE CRETACEOUS PERIOD, 



MOLLUSC A. 
Pecten quadricostatus, Sowerby. 

Palaeontology, PL 3, fig. 6, and PI. — , fig. — . 

Janira quadncostata, D'Orbig., Pal. Franc., Ill, 644, [pi. 
ccccxlvii, fig. 1 — 7. 

Pecten quadricostatus, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 64, taf. 
viii, fig. 4, a — c. 

Shell sub-ovate, angulated, convexo-concave. Inferior 
valve convex, with prominent rounded radiating ribs, crossed 
by five concentric thread-like striae. Ribs from fifteen to 
seventeen, of which five are more prominent than the others ; 
smaller ribs disposed in pairs in the intervals between the 
larger ones. Superior valve slightly concave, with radiating 
unequal ribs. 

As we have not been able to consult Sowerby's description 
of Pecten quadricostatus, we refer our fossil to this species on 
the authority of Dr, F. Roemer, whose figures and descrip- 
tions of specimens from Fredericksburg, Texas, correspond 
very accurately with those we figure from Fort Washita. 

Figure 6 of plate 3 represents the inferior valve of a large 
individual from Fort Washita, and figure — of plate — the 
superior valve of a smaller specimen. 

Exogyra ponderosa, Roemer. 

Exngyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, 1849, Texas, 394. 
Ostrea ponderosa, D'Orbig., 1850, Prod, de Palaeont., II, 256, 
Exogyra. ponderosa, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 71, tai. ix, 
fig. 2, a — b. 



192 APPENDIX E. —-PALEONTOLOGY. 

Shell thick, ovate, sub-cuneiform ; large valve gibbous, ob* 
tusely carinated, surface marked with imbricating lamelse ; 
small valve rather thin, sub-concave, surface uneven, con- 
centrically laminated. Occurs rather abundantly at Fort 
Washita, generally in a fine state of preservation. Roemer 
cites this species from New Braunfels, Texas. 

Gryphea Pitcheri, Morton. 

Pal.eontology, PL 6> fig. 5b 

Gryphcea Pitcheri, Morton, Synops. Cretaceous Group, 55, 
PI. xv, fig. 9. 

Ostrea vesicularis, D'Orbig. Prod, de Palasont. II, 256, (pars.) 
Gryphaa Pitcheri, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 73, taf. ix, fig. 

I, a — c. 

Shell ovate, thick, gibbous, irregular ; inferior valve boat- 
shaped, inflated, divided into two unequal lobes by a longi- 
tudinal furrow, which begins at the umbo and runs the whole 
length of the shell ; umbo large, elongate, incurved and 
slightly compressed laterally. Superior valve irregular, sub- 
oval, nearly plane, marked with concentric imbricating la- 
mella?. Occurs in great numbers in the . cretaceous clays at 
Fort Washita, and more sparingly at Cross Timbers, Texas. 
Dr. Morton's specimens were obtained from the plains of 
Kiamesha, Arkansas, and Dr. F. Roemer found it quite com- 
mon near New Braunfels, Texas. 

Exogyra Texana, Roemer. 

Paleontology, PI. 5, fig. 1, a — b, and fig. 5. 

Exogyra Texana, F. Roemer, Texas, 396. 

Ostrea mother oniana, (pars) D'Orbigny, Prod, de Palasont, 

II, 255. 

Exogyra Boussingaultii, Conrad's Geolog. Report of Lynch' s 
Expedition to Red Sea, 213, pi. i, fig. 9, pi. ii, fig. 10 and 11. 

Exogyra Texana, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 69, taf. x, fig. 1, 
a — e. 

The specimens of this shell in the collection were obtained 
by Dr. G. G. Shumard, at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, 
Texas. They vary very much in their characters, scarcely 
any two examples being alike. In some the shell is quite 



APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 193 

thin, in others massive ; some exhibit prominent rugose ribs, 
while in others the ribs are but slightly elevated and nodulose- 
According to Dr. Roemer, this Exogyra characterizes the 
cretaceous deposites near Fredericksburg and New Braunfels, 
Texas. Mr. Conrad figures a shell from Syria, which he re- 
fers to Exogyra Boussingaidtii, D'Orbig., and which appears 
to be identical with the species under consideration. 

Ostrea subovata, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PL 5, fig. 2. 

Sub-ovate, trigonal, elongate, massive ; inferior valve ir- 
regularly convex, inflated, thick, umbo obtusely angulated, 
somewhat prominent ; ribs four or five, longitudinal, irregu- 
lar, rounded, nodulose ; surface marked with concentric im- 
bricating lamellae ; superior valve rather thin, ovate, nearly 
plane, slightly convex near the peak, surface with four or five 
well marked longitudinal undulating sulci. 

It occurs at Fort Washita with Gryphcea Pitcheri and Am- 
monites vespertinus. It appears to be quite rare, the specimen 
figured being the only one furnished by the expedition. 

Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roemer. 

Paleontology, Plate 6, fig. 2. 

Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 402. 
Kreidebild, Texas, 59, taf. vii, fig. 4. 

Shell ovate, depressed with close concentric undulating ribs ; 
ribs prominent, rounded, regular, intervals about equal to 
width of ribs. 

I refer this fossil to the above species with some hesitation, 
as all the specimens of the collection are either weather-worn 
or badly mutilated. Nevertheless, if not identical, ours is a 
closely allied species. Occurs rather abundantly at Camp 
No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. Dr. F. Roemer's specimens 
are from the Guadalupe, near New Braunfels. 

Trigonia crenulata, Lamarck. 

Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 1. 

Trigonia crenulata, Roemer, Kreidebild, Texas, 51, taf. vii-, 
fig. 6. 



194 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 

Shell trigonal, thick, with from fourteen to fifteen oblique 
crenulated ribs in each valve ; anterior side wide, rounded, 
inflated ; posterior side produced, compressed ; inferior mar- 
gin rounded. 

From Cross-Timbers, Texas. All the examples in the col- 
lection are internal casts. Roemer cites this species from 
New Braunfels. 

Astarte washitensis, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 3, fig. 3. 

Shell ovate, trigonal, a little longer than wide, compressed, 
inequilateral, marked with fine concentric rounded , striae ; 
buccal side shorter than the anal, excavated ; basal margin 
rounded, truncated posteriorly, beaks slightly jjrominent, ex- 
cavated. 

The only specimen of this species collected by the expedi- 
tion is rather too imperfect to permit us to make a satisfactory 
description. It was found in the cretaceous strata at Camp 
No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 



Cardium multistriatum, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 2. 

Shell sub-rotund, inflated, length and breadth nearly equal? 
truncated posteriorly, basal and anterior margins rounded : 
surface of posterior sub-margin with from fourteen to fifteen 
regular radiating striae ; remainder of surface marked with 
fine, equal, rounded, close, concentric striae. Beaks rather 
prominent. 

This is a neat, pretty species ; and it is to be regretted that 
the specimens collected were not in a better state of preser- 
vation. It was found at encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, 
Texas, where it is rather uncommon. 



Panopea texana, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 6, fig. 1. 

Shell oval, elongate, inflated anteriorly, compressed behind? 
beaks moderately prominent, basal edge rounded, buccal ex- 



APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 195 

tremity wide, rounded ; surface marked with irregular con- 
centric slightly elevated ribs. Length about 2 5-10 inches, 
breadth 1 4-10 inches, thickness 1-10 inch. 

The only specimen of this species brought home by the 
expedition is an imperfect cast. 

Locality, encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 



Terebratula choctawensis, Shumard. 

Palaeontology, PI. 2, fig. a, b. 

Shell sub-globose, inflated, sub-pentagonal, front slightly 
truncated, surface minutely punctate, the puncti only visible 
when examined through a strong lens ; dorsal valve most in- 
flated ; beak- obtuse, recurved, pierced by an oval aperture ; 
area distinct, forming a well-defined obtuse angle ; ventral 
valve moderately convex, sub-orbicular. Length 9 lines, 
width 8 lines, thickness 6£ lines. 

It resembles Terebratula wacoensis, (F. Roemer, Kreidebild, 
Texas, 81, taf. vi, fig. 2, a-c,) but differs in the character of 
the surface, which. in T. Choctawensis is thickly studded over 
with minute puncta. It is also a smaller species ; the area is 
not so wide comparatively, and the front is not so broadly 
truncate. 

This beautiful Terebratula was obtained from the creta- 
ceous deposites near Fort Washita, where it is quite rare, a 
single specimen only having been found. 



Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PL 5, fig. 3. 

Shell ovate-globose, spire pyramidal, volutions about six, 
whorls moderately convex ; width of body whorl equal to 
about one-half the length of the shell. Length 1 7-10 inch, 
width 1 3-10 inch. 

All the specimens we have seen are badly preserved in- 
ternal casts. Occurs at Cross-Timbers, Texas, in cretaceous 
limestone. 



196 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 

Globiconcha (?) elevata, Shumard 

Palaeontology, PL 4, fig. 4. 

Shell ovate, spire produced, whorls six regularly convex, 
body whorl shorter than spire. Length 1 5-10 inch, breadth 
1 inch. 

This is likewise an internal cast. It occurs with the pre- 
ceding species. 

Eulima (?) subfusiformis, Shumard* 

Paleontology, PI. 4. fig. 3. 

Shell subfusiform, elongate smooth, spire produced, regu- 
larly conical ; whorls about six, broad, very slightly convex ; 
suture rather shallow, linear, aperture simple, sub-ovate ; 
body whorl obtusely angulated. Length 2 8-10 inches, 
width 1 1-10 inch. 

The collection contains only a single specimen of the cast 
of this species, and that badly weather-worn. It was found 
at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 

Ammonities vespertinus, Morton. 

Ammonities vespertinus, Morton, synopsis Cretaceous Group 
U. S., 40, pi, xvii, fig. 1 Id., D'Orbigny, Prodrome de 
Palseont. II, 212. 

Shell large, volutions about three ; vertical section sub- 
quadrangular ; ribs prominent, each garnished with three no- 
dules, dorsal one most prominent; dorsal margin furnished 
with a prominent rounded carina. 

This is the largest species of ammonite that has hitherto 
been found in the United States. In the cretaceous strata 
near Fort Washita, specimens were found to measure nearly 
three feet in diameter, and estimated to weigh upwards of two 
hundred pounds. It is quite common. The fragment de- 
scribed by Dr. Morton was obtained from the plains of Kia- 
mesha, Arkansas. 



APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 197 

Ammonites marciana, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 5. 

Shell compressed, not carinated, with about twelve simple, 
prominent rounded ribs, which cross the dorsum and sides of 
the last volution obliquely, without interruption ; dorsum con- 
vex, whorls compressed; surface smooth in the intervals be- 
tween the ribs ; aperture longitudinal, sub-oval. 

Length of last whorl 11 lines, width of do. 4£ lines; width 
of umbilicus 3 lines. 

The specimen figured as a cast, and the character of the 
lobes of the chambers'cannot be made out. 

Occurs in the cretaceous strata of Cross-timbers, Texas. 

Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 3. 

Shell much compressed, sharply carinated, ornamented 
with from 30 to 34 transverse ribs ; ribs simple, distinctly ele- 
vated, flexuous, commencing narrow at the umbilicus, and 
widening to within a short distance of the dorsal border, 
where they are again somewhat contracted ; dorsal carina 
prominent, sharp, smooth, marked on each side by shallow 
depression ; aperture elongate-cordate, lateral septa trilobate. 

Diameter 2 4-10 inches; thickness of last whorl near aper- 
ture 5-10 inch. 

Occurs rather abundantly with the preceding species at 
Cross-Timbers, Texas. 

Ammonites — {undetermined.} 
Paleontology, PL — , fig. — . 

Several specimens of a small variety of ammonite, such as 
is represented in the figure, were found with the two last- 
described species, but they are too imperfect for satisfactory 
description. 



198 APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 



ECHINODERMATA. 



Hemiaster elegans, Shumard. 

Paleontology-, PI. fig. 4, a, b, c. 

Shell ovate orbicular, moderately convex at summit, broadly 
emarginate anteriorly; anal extremity truncated almost verti- 
cally, very slightly excavated; ambulacra sub-petalloid broad, 
situated in shallow depressions, antero-lateral areas widely 
divergent, extending to the margin of the test, postero-lateral 
areas much less divergent and short, peripetalous fasciole in- 
distinct ; mouth transverse reniform, not far from the anterior 
border, post oral tuberculated space lanceolate; anus oval 
longitudinal, sub-anal fasciole scarcely visible ; surface of test 
covered with small spinigerous tubercles, with minute gran- 
ule in the interspaces. The dimensions of the largest speci- 
men that I have been permitted to examine are as follows : 
length, 2 7-10 inches ; greatest width, 2 5-10 inches ; height, 
1 5-10 inch. 

This exceedingly elegant species occurs in great numbers 
in the cretaceous strata at Fort Washita. 



Holaster simplex, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 3, fig. 2. 

Shell ovate, sub-cordate, gibbous, regularly rounded supe- 
riorly, most prominent near apex, which is sub-central, declin- 
ing at first gently towards the mouth, then abruptly, truncated 
posteriorly, with a thread-like carina leading from the apex to 
the anus; oral sinus shallow, rounded; ambulacra flexuous, 
extending to the base, increasing gradually in width to the in- 
ferior margin; antero-lateral are as widely divergent; postero- 
laterals separated by a moderate interval, mouth transverse, 
oval; anus oval, longitudinal sub-anal fasciole indistinct; sur- 
face of test sparingly studded with spinigerous tubercles, with 
numerous microscopic granules in the interspaces. It ap- 
proaches Holaster ( Ananchytes) Jimbrialus, Morton, (Silliman's 
Journal, XVIII, 245, pi. 3, fig. 9.) Our specimens, however, 



APPENDIX E. PALAEONTOLOGY. 199 

differ from the figures given by Dr. Morton in being less or- 
bicular in the oral sinus, which is not so profound, and in the 
anal border, which is more widely truncated. 
Occurs with Hemiaster elegans at Fort Washita. 



Holectipus planatus, Roemer. 

Holectipus planatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 393. Ibid, Kreide- 
bild, Texas, 84, taf. x, fig. 2, a — g. 

In the collection from Cross-Timbers, Texas, we find 
several mutilated specimens of Holectypus, which we refer 
without doubt to the above species. Dr. Roemer' s examples 
were obtained from the vicinity of Fredericksburg, Texas. 



APPENDIX 



ZOOLOGY, 



MAMMALS. 

BY CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY. 

Ursus Americanus, Pall Black bear. Throughout the 
valley. 

Procyon lotor, L. Raccoon. Throughout the valley. 

Mephitis mesoleuca, (?) Licht. Texan skunk. Through- 
out the valley. 

Lutra canadensis, Sabine. Olter. Throughout the valley. 

Bassaris astuta. Licht. Civet cat. Cross-Timbers. 

Canis occidentalis, Rich. Gray wolf. Above Shreveport. 

Canis latrans. Prairie wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. 

Canis . Large Lobos wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. 

Vulpes fulvus. Red Fox. Red river valley. 
• Lynx rufus. Wild cat. Red river valley. 

Felis concolor, L. Panther. Red river valley. 

Sciurxjs MAGNiCAUDATXJS, (?) Say. Fox-squirrel. Red river 
valley. 

Tamias quadrivittatus, Say. Striped squirrel. Above 
Cross-Timbers. 

Pteromys volucella, Gm. Flying-squirrel. Red river 
valley. 

Castor fiber, L. Beaver. Above Cross-Timbers. 

Lepus sylvaticus, Bach. Rabbit. Red river valley* 



APPENDIX F- MAMMALS. 201 

Lepus callotis, (?) Wagl. Jackass rabbit- Above Cross- 
Timbers. 

Lepus Artemisia (?) Small prairie rabbit. Above Cross- 
Timbers. 

Spermophilus ludovicianus, Ord. Prairie-dog. Above 
Cross-Timbers. 

Didelphys Virginiana, Shaw. Opossum. Red river valley. 

Cervus Virginiana, Penn. Deer. Red river valley. 

Cervus canadensis. Elk ; only about Witchita mountains. 

Antilocapra Americana, Ord. Antelope. Above Cross- 
Timbers. 

Bos Americanus, L* Above Cache creek 



102 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



REPTILES. 

BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD. 



SERPENTS. 

The serpents collected by Captains Marcy and McClellan 
belong to ten species, distributed into eight genera. Several 
of these species had previously been received from other sec- 
tions of the country; three, however, were first collected 
during the expedition. All are here figured for the first time, 
except Ophibolus Sayi, of which a hitherto undescribed va- 
riety is represented. 



I. CROTALUS, Linn. 

This genus is characterized by its erectile poison fangs, and 
by having the upper surface of the head covered with small 
plates resembling the scales on the body, and with only a few 
larger ones in front. There is a deep pit between the eyes 
and the nostrils. The plates under the tail are undivided, and 
the tail is terminated by a rattle. Scales carinated. 

1. Crotalus confluentus, Say. 

Zoology, PI. 1. 

Spec. char. — Head subtriangular. Plates on top of head 
squamiform, irregular, angulated, and imbricated; scales be- 
tween superciliaries small, numerous, uniform. Four rows 
of scales between the suborbital series (which only extends 
to the centre of the orbit) and the labials. Labials 15 or 18, 
nearly uniform. Dorsal series 27-29. Dorsal blotches 
quadrate, concave before and behind; intervals greater be- 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



203 



hind. Spots transversely quadrate posteriorly, ultimately 
becoming 10 or 12 half rings. Two transverse lines on super- 
ciliaries, enclosing about one-third. Stripe from superciliary 
to angle of jaws, crosses angle of the mouth on the second 
row above labial. Rostral margined with lighter. 

Syn.— Crotalus confluentus, Say, in Long's Exped. Rocky Mts. 
II, 1823, 48. B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 8. 

C. Lecontei, Hallow. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI, 1851, 

180. 

Description. — This speeies bears a considerable resem- 
blance to C. atrox, but the body is more slender and compact. 
Scales on the top of the head anterior to the supercilianes 
nearly uniform in size. Line of scales across from one nostril 
to the other consists of six, not four, as in C atrox. Supercil- 
ianes more prominent, Labial series much smaller. Upper 
anterior orbitals much smaller, as also is the anterior nasal. 
Scales on the top of the head less carinated. Scales between 
superciliaries smaller and more numerous, five or six in num- 
ber instead of four. Two lateral rows of scales smooth; first, 
second, and third gradually increasing in size. Scales more 
linear than in C. atrox. 

General color yellowish brown, with a series of subquad- 
rate dark blotches, with the corners rounded and the anterior 
and posterior sides frequently concave, the exterior convex. 
These blotches are ten or eleven scales wide and four or five 
long, lighter in the centre, and margined for one-third of a 
scale with light yellowish. The intervals along the back light 
brown, darker than the margins of the blotches. Anteriorly 
the interval between the dark spots is but a single scale ; pos- 
teriorly it is more, becoming sometimes two scales ; where 
also the spots are more rhomboidal or lozenge-shaped ; nearer 
the tail, however, they become transversely quadrate. The 
fundamental theory of coloration might be likened to that of 
Crotalus adamanteus, viz : of forty or fifty light lines decussat- 
ing each other from opposite sides ; but the angles of decussa- 
tion, instead of being acute, are obtuse, and truncated or 
rounded off throughout. Along the third, fourth, and fifth 
lateral rows of scales is a series of indistinct brown blotches 
covering a space of about four scales, and falling opposite to 
the dorsal blotches : between these blotches, and opposite to 
the intervals of the dorsal blotches, are others less distinct. 



204 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



Along the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth rows is a second 
series of obsolete blotches, each covering a space of about 
four scales, and just opposite the intervals between the dorsal 
spots. The dorsal and lower series are separated by an in- 
terval of three scales ; this interval light brown. Beneath, 
the color is dull yellowish, and ten or twelve darker half-rings 
are visible on the tail. 

In point of coloration, the principal features, as compared 
with G. atrox, lie in the disposition of the dorsal blotches in 
subquadrate spots instead of subrhomboids ; the intervals thus 
forming bands across the back perpendicular to the longitudi- 
nal axis. This tendency to assume the subquadrangular pat- 
tern has broken up the chain- work into isolated portions, as in 
Ophibolus eximius or Crotalophorus tergeminus. The intervals 
of the dorsal blotches are wide, and darker in the middle, 
while in C. atrox they are narrow, not linear, and unicolor. 
The sides of the head present the usual light stripe from the 
posterior extremity of the superciliary ; it passes, however, 
to the angle of the jaw on the neck, along the second row of 
scales above the labials. A second stripe passes in front of 
the eye to the labials, widening there. A small light vertical 
bar is seen below the pit, and another on the outer edge of the 
rostral. On the superciliaries are two light transverse lines 
enclosing a space nearly one-third of the whole surface. In 
C. atrox there is a single median line. Sometimes, as in C. 
atrox, the single blotches on the nape are replaced by two 
elongated ones parallel to each other. 

Dorsal row of scales, 29 ; abdominal scutelke, 180 ; sub- 
caudal ones, 27. Total length, 34 inches ; length of tail, 4 
inches. 

A specimen was collected the 5th of June in the Witchita 
mountains. Another specimen of the same species was 
brought home from the Cross-Timbers, Arkansas, by Dr. S. 
W. Woodhouse, and described by Dr. Hallowell as new, un- 
der the name of Crotahs Lecontei, on the ground that the ante- 
rior vertebral spots are not confluent. This we do not con- 
sider as a sufficiently distinctive character, although we have 
never seen a specimen with decidedly confluent markings. 
The notes of Dr. Leconte, quoted by Dr. Hallowell, hardly 
apply to the present species. 

The species was first discovered by Say, on Major Long's 
expedition to the Rocky mountains, and has not since been 
seen until procured first by Dr. Woodhouse, and then by 
Captain Marcy and the Mexican boundary commission. It 



APPENDIX F.— REPTILES. 205 

was found by the latter party in Western Texas, where, how- 
ever, it is rare. 

Plate I represents Crotalus confluentus of natural size. 

II. EUTVENIA, B. & G. 

This genus is composed of numerous species, some of 
them quite common, and known under the names of Riband, 
Striped, and Garter snakes ; inoffensive, like most of the 
North American snakes. They may be recognised by three 
light stripes on a darker ground, the intervals between these 
stripes provided with alternating or tessellated blackish spots. 
The scales have a ridge or small keel along their middle, and 
are arranged in 19 or 21 longitudinal rows. The post abdom- 
inal or anal scutella is entire, like the others. There is one 
anterior orbital plate and three posterior. The body is either 
moderately stout or else slender, according to the species. Of 
the two described in this article, one belongs to the division 
with a slender body and 19 dorsal rows of scales, and the 
other to the second division, with a stouter body and 21 dor- 
sal rows of scales. 

2. EutjEnia proxima, B. & G. 

Zoology, PL II. 

Spec. char. — Body stoutest of the division. Black above ; 
three longitude stripes, the dorsal ochraceous yellow or brown, 
lateral greenish white or yellow. Total length about three 
and a half times that of the tail. 

Syn.-— Coluber prozimus, Say, in Long's Expd. to Rock. 
Mts. I, 1823, 187.— Harl. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. 
V, 1827, 353. 

Eutainia proxima, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. 1. 1853, 25. 

Desc. — Deep brown, almost black, above and on the sides ; 
beneath greenish white. Dorsal stripe on one and two halt 
rows of scales, ochraceous yellow, lateral stripe on the 3d 



206 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



and 4th rows of scales, greenish yellow or white, markedly 
different in tint from the dorsal. Sides of abdominal scutellae, 
and 1st and 2d dorsal series, of the same color as the back. 
On stretching the skin, numerous short white lines are visible. 
Occipital plates with two small approximated spots on the 
line of junction. Orbitals whitish. The greenish white of 
the abdomen becomes more yellow anteriorly. 

Head more like that of E. saurita than of E Faireyi, while 
the body is stouter than in either. The subcaudal scales are 
less numerous than in the other two allied species. Resemb- 
ling E. Faireyi in color, it is always distinguishable by the 
stouter body, fewer caudal scales, and dissimilarity of color 
in the longitudinal stripes. 

Dorsal rows of scales 19, all keeled ; abdominal scutellae 
170 ; subcaudal ones 100. Total length 33 inches ; length 
of tail 9 inches. Found at Camp No. 7. 

The species is represented in natural size on Plate II. 

3. Cut^enia marciana, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. III. 

Spec. char. — Prominent color light brown; a vertebral 
paler line and one lateral on each side, more or less indis- 
tinct. Three series of square black spots on each side, of 
about 56-60 in each series, from occiput to anus. Sides of 
head black, with a crescentic patch of yellowish posterior to 
the labial plates. Three and sometimes four black vittae radi- 
ating from the eye across the jaws. A double white spot 
with a black margin on the suture of occipital plates. 

Syn. — Eutainia marciana, B. and G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 

1853, 36. 
• 
Desc — The markings about the head are generally very 
constant and distinct. Viewed laterally, we see first the large 
dark-brown patch at the back part of the head, extending as 
far back as the posterior extremity of the jawbones. In the 
anterior part of this patch is seen the crescentic patch (con- 
cave before) of yellowish white, with a more or less narrow 
dark-brown margin anteriorly. The next black band starts 
from the posterior edge of the superciliaries, and passes ob- 
liquely downwards and backwards along the posterior edge 
of the 6th upper labial. Similar black margins are seen on 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 207 

the posterior edges of the 5th and 4th labials, the intervening 
spaces being yellowish white, particularly on the 5th upper 
labial. Occasionally the posterior margins of the 7th and 3d 
labials have the black line as well as those mentioned, which 
frequently extend across to the posterior margins of the corres- 
ponding lower labials. The white spot on the anterior por- 
tion of the occipital suture is always margined with black. 

The six series of black spots are arranged so as to alter- 
nate with each other. The lower or third series on each side 
is below the indistinct lateral stripe. The posterior edge of 
each abdominal scutella shows a black margined spot on 
each side. The dorsal line is generally a single scale in 
width, occasionally including portions of the lateral, and itself 
sometimes encroached upon by the black spots. Each spot 
is about a scale or a scale and a half long, and about three 
scales broad. The number in the dorsal series from the head 
to the anus varies from 56 to 60. Posterior edges of scales 
very slightly emarginate, if at all. All are decidedly keeled. 

Dorsal scales disposed in 21 rows ; abdominal scutelke, 
152; subcaudal, 75. Total length 34 inches ; length of tail 
8 inches. 

Collected between Camp 5 and Red river, on the open 
prairie. 

This species is very widely distributed in the south and 
west. Red river forms its limit on the north, and the Gulf of 
Mexico on the east ; but it extends to the Rocky mountains on 
the west, and far into Mexico on the south. Its centre of dis- 
tribution appears to be on the lower Rio Grande. 

Plate III represents this species in natural size. 

III. HETERODON, Pal de B. 

This genus is eminently characterized by the peculiarity of 
its snout, which is terminated by a triangular plate recurved 
upwards ; hence the popular appellation of hog-nose snake. 
Though perfectly harmless, they exhibit a threatening appear- 
ance, when approached, in the flattening of their head and 
violent hissings ; hence the names of bio wing- viper, spreading- 
adder, &c. Their body is short, stout, and the tail also short. 
The head is broad and short. The dorsal scales are cari- 
nated, and arranged in 23-27 rows. The preanal or postab- 
dominal scutella is bifid; a chain of small plates beneath the 
eye, completed above by the superciliaries. There is a sup- 
plementary plate on the top of the head, behind the prominent 



208 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

rostral, either in contact with the frontals, or separated by 
smaller plates. The colors are light, with dorsal and lateral 
darker blotches, or else brown, with dorsal transverse light 
bars ; sometimes entirely black. 

One species only was collected on the Red River explora- 
tion. Six species are known to exist in the United States. 

4. Heterodon nascius, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. IV. 

Spec. char. — Vertical plate broader than long. Rostral 
excessively broad and high. Az}^gos plate surrounded behind 
and on the sides by many small plates (12-15.) A second 
loral. Labials short and excessively high. Dorsal rows of 
scales 23, exterior alone smooth. A dorsal series of about 50 
blotches, with four or five other series on each side. Body 
beneath, black. A narrow white line across the middle of 
the superciliaries ; a second behind the rostral. A broad 
dark patch from the eye to the angle of the mouth, crossing 
the two postlabials. 

Syn. — Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. Reptiles in Stansbury's 
Expl. Valley of Great Salt Lake, 1852, 352.— B. &*G. 
Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 61. 

Desc. — 'Vertical plate very broad, subhexagonal. Occipi- 
tal short. Rostral very broad, high, more so than in the other 
species, outline rounded. The interval between the opposite 
frontals, the rostral, and the vertical occupied by a number 
of small plates, from 10 to 12, or more, arranged without any 
symmetry, on each side and behind the small azygos. The 
base of the rostral between the opposite prenasals is generally 
margined by these small plates, which sometimes, too, are 
seen between the vertical and the anterior portion of the su- 
perciliaries. This crowding of plates causes the anterior part 
of the forehead to be broader than in H. simus. Eye small, 
Its centre rather posterior to the middle of the imaginary line 
connecting the tip of rostral with the lower angle of the post- 
labial, which line scarcely crosses the eyeball. Orbital plates, 
10-13 in number. Loral triangular, rather longer than high, 
separated from the frontal by a small plate. Nasals rather 
short, occasionally with the lower part of the nostril bounded 
by a small plate. Labials 8 or 9 above, all of them higher 
than long; indeed, their vertical extension is much greater 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 209 

than in any other species: the 6th highest; centre of eye 
over the junction of the 5th and 6th. 

Dorsal rows of scales 23, outer row smooth, rest all dis- 
tinctly carinated, the keels extending to the ends of the scales ; 
those just behind the occipital plates truncate^, with obsolete 
carinae. Scales on the hind part of the body rather broader 
and shorter than anteriorly ; the inequality scarcely evident 
in large specimens. 

Ground-color light brown or yellowish gray, with about 50 
dorsal blotches from head to tip of tail ; the 39th opposite the 
anus. These blotches are quite small, rather longer trans- 
versely, subquadrate, or rounded, indistinctly margined with 
black, (obsoletely on the outside ;) they cover 7 to 9 scales 
across, are 2 to 2£ long, and separated by interspaces of 1J 
scales, which are pretty constant throughout, though rather 
narrower on the tail. On each side of the dorsal row may 
be made out, under favorable circumstances, four alternating 
rows of blotches ; the first on the contiguous edges of the 
scales of the first and second exterior dorsal rows ; the second 
on the scales of the 3d row, and the adjacent edges of those 
in the 2d and 4th; the third on the scales of the 4th, 5th, and 
6th, and the adjacent edges of the 3d and 7th; and the fourth 
on the scales of the 6th, 7th, and 8th rows, and the adjacent 
edges of those of the 5th. This last is opposite the intervals 
of the dorsal series ; the rest alternate with it. The central 
inferior surface of the abdominal scutellae is black, sharply 
variegated with quadrate spots of yellowish white; the por- 
tion of the scutellae entering into the side of the body is yel- 
lowish white, with that part opposite the dorsal intervals dark 
brown, thus, in fact, constituting a fifth lateral series of 
blotches, alternating with the lowest already mentioned. The 
throat and chin are unspotted. The head is light brown, 
with a narrow whitish line finely margined before and behind 
with black, which crosses in front of the centre of the verti- 
cal, and through the middle of the superciliaries : a second 
similar but more indistinct line runs parallel to this just be- 
hind the rostral, and extending down in front of the eye. A 
third equally indistinct and similar line crosses the posterior 
angle of the vertical, and runs back on the side of the neck, 
behind the labials and temporal shields. There is a broad 
brown patch from the back part of the eye to the angle of the 
mouth, across the penultimate and last labial. The colora- 
tion is thus very different from that of H. simus, where there 
is a distinct narrow black band across the forehead scarcely 
14 



210 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

involving the vertical, and passing through the eye to the 
angle of the mouth across the last labial. Behind this a much 
broader yellowish band, continued without interruption into 
the neck behind the angle' of the mouth. In H. nasicus the 
most conspicuous feature is a narrow white band, much nar- 
rower than the darker patch before and behind it. The dark 
patch, to the angle of the mouth is much broader, continuous 
as it were, with the broad bar between the middle and ante- 
rior light lines, which corresponds with the narrow black line 
of H. simus. The other distinguishing features are evident. 
The three dark patches behind the head are much as in H. 
simus. 

In large specimens from Sonora and the Copper Mines of the 
Gila, (Fort Webster,) the ground-color is yellowish gray, each 
scale minutely punctuate with brown. The blotches are all 
obsolete, only one dorsal and two lateral on each side being 
defined by darker shades. The blotches on the sides of the 
abdomen are wanting, but the black in the middle is strongly 
marked. The other characters, however, are preserved, ex- 
cept that the exterior row of dorsal scales is more or less cari- 
nated. 

Specimens of this species vary in the number of small 
postrostral plates. In some there are only three or four, in 
others a larger number. Sometimes, instead of a single series 
of median dorsal spots, there are two, in close contact, and 
more or less confluent. The narrow light line across the 
middle of the superciliaries and the high labials are always 
highly characteristic. 

The specimen figured of natural size on Plate IV is much 
smaller than those alluded to from Sonora and the Copper 
Mines, and upon which the foregoing description has been 
based. 



IV. PITUOPH1S, Holbr. 

This genus, closely allied to Heterodon, is characterized by 
a prominent snout, the rostal plate elevated and convex, with- 
out, however, being recurved. There are two pairs of post- 
frontal plates instead of one, and occasionally also two verti- 
cals ; three or four postorbitals ; generally two, sometimes only 
one anteriorly. The scales are carinated along the back, 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 211 

smooth on the sides, and constituting from 29-35 dorsal row?. 
The preanal or postabdominal scuttellae is entire 

The ground-colors are either whitish or reddish yellow, 
with a triple series of patches, those of the medial series the 
largest, and several series of smaller blotches on the sides. 
Abdomen unicolor or spotted, with an outer row of blotches. 
Head of same color as the body, maculated with black spots. 
A narrow band of black across the upper surface between the 
eyes, and a postocular vitta on each side, extending obliquely 
from the eye down to the angle of the mouth. A black ver- 
tical patch is often seen beneath the eye. 

The names of Bull, Pine, and Pilot snake, are commonly 
given to different species of this genus, which are all of great 
size, including in fact some of the largest serpents of North 
America. Some of the species utter a hissing or blowing 
sound. 

5. Pituophis McClellanii, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. V. 

Spec. char. — Head subelliptical. Rostral plate very nar- 
row. Anteorbitals 2 ; postorbitals 4. Dorsal rows 33-35 ; 
the 7 outer rows smooth. Tail-forming 1-9 or 1-10 of total 
length. Postocular vitta brown, and rather broad. Suborbital 
black patch conspicuous ; commissure of labials black. Color 
of body reddish yellow, with a series of 53 blotches from head 
to origin of tail. Blotches of adjoining series, on either side, 
confluent across the light spaces between medial blotches. 
Flanks covered with small blotches, forming 3 or 4 indistinct 
series. Twelve transverse jet-black bars across the tail. Ab- 
domen yellowish, thickly maculated with black patches. 

Syn. — Pituophis McClellani, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. 
I, 1853, 68.— Pilot-snake. 

Desc — Head proportionally large, ovoid, distinct from the 
body. Snout pointed. Occipital plates small. Vertical 
broad, subpentagonal, slightly concave on the sides. Super- 
ciliaries large. Internal postfrontals rather narrow, elongated ; 



212 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

external postfrontals quadrilateral, a little broader forwards. 
Prefrontals irregularly quadrangular. Rostral very narrow, 
extending halfway between the prefrontals, convex and raised 
above the surface of the snout. Nostrils in the middle line 
between the nasals, the posterior of which is a little the smaller. 
Loral trapezoidal, proportionally large. Inferior anteorbital 
very small, resting upon the fourth upper labial. Postorbitals 
varying in comparative size. Temporal shields small, re- 
sembling scales. Upper labials 8 ; 6th and 7th the larger. 
Lower labials 12 ; 6th and 7th largest. Posterior mental 
shields very small, extending to opposite the junction of the 
7th and 8th lower labials. Scales proportionally small, in 
33-35 rows, the 7 outer ones perfectly smooth and somewhat 
larger than the remaining rows. 

Ground color yellowish brown, with three series of dorsal 
black blotches, 53 in number, from the head to opposite the 
anus, with 12 on the tail, in the shape of transverse bars. 
Those of the medial series the larger, and covering 8 or 9 
rows of scales. On the anterior part of the body they are 
subcircular, embracing longitudinally four scales ; posteriorly 
they become shorter by one scale. The light spaces between 
are a little narrower than the blotches themselves for the 
twelve anterior blotches, and wider than the blotches for the 
remaining length of the body. The blotches of the adjoining 
series alternate with those of the medial series, being opposite 
to the light intermediate spaces across which the blotches of 
either sides are generally united by a transverse narrow 
band. The flanks are densely covered with small and irreg- 
ular blotches, forming three indistinct series, confluent in ver- 
tical bars towards the origin of the tail. Inferior surface of 
the head yellowish, unicolor. Abdomen dull yellow, with 
crowded brownish black blotches in series on the extremity 
of the scutellse. 

Two specimens of this species were caught the 28th of 
June. The largest is figured, of natural size, on Plate V. It 
is 38J inches in length ; the tail measuring nearly 5 inches. 
Abdominal scutellae 231 ; subcaudal ones, 52. 

V. SCOTOPHIS, B. & G. 

The scales in this genus are very slightly carinated on the 
back, and perfectly smooth on the sides. Preanal scutella 
bifid. One large anteorbital plate and two postorbitals. The 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 213 

colors are brown or black, in quadrate blotches on the back 
and on the sides, separated by lighter intervals; beneath 
usually coarsely blotched with darker. In one species there 
are dark stripes on a light ground. 

6. SCOTOPHIS LAETUS, B. & G. 

Zoology, PL VI. 

Spec, char.— Similar to S. confinis, but postfrontals larger. 
Vertical plate longer than broad. Dorsal rows 29. Abdomi- 
nal scutellse 227. Subcaudals 72. Blotches fewer than in 
S. confinis. 

SYN.—Scotophis laetus, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
1853, 78. 

p ESC . — This species bears a close resemblance to S. con- 
finis, and its characters may be best given by comparison 
with the latter. It differs, therefore, in the greater number of 
dorsal rows/29 instead of 25. The whole body and head are 
much stouter. Exterior eight rows smooth, rest slightly cari- 
nated. The vertical is broad before, rather acute behind. 
A probably monstrous feature is seen in the union of the two 
postfrontals, except for a short distance before, and in the 
loral and postnasal coalescing into one trapezoidal plate. 
Blotches less numerous. A broad vitta across the back part 
of the postfrontals, passing backwards and downwards through 
the eye, and terminating acutely on the posterior upper labial. 
A blotch across the back part of the vertical, and extending 
through the occipitals on each side to the nape._ The spots 
are larger, longitudinal throughout, with occasional excep- 
tions. 

Its affinities to S. vulpinus are close. The vertical, how- 
ever, is narrow, the eyes much larger, dorsal rows 29 instead 
of 25. The blotches on the back are longitudinal, and fewer 
in number. For a complete description of this species it will 
be necessary to procure larger specimens. 

The specimen figured on Plate VI is of natural size. The 
only one caught of this species is 18 inches long. Length of 
tail 3J inches. 



214 APPENDIX P. REPTILES, 



VI. OPHIBOLUS, B. & G. 

The body is rather thick, and the tail short. The scales 
smooth and lustrous, and disposed in 21 or 23 rows, which 
scarcely overlap. The preanal scutella is entire. A small 
anteorbital plate and two postorbitals. Eyes very small. 

The ground-colors are black, brown, or red, crossed by 
lighter intervals, generally bordered by black. 

Seven species, besides the two here described, have hith- 
erto been found in North America. 

7. Ophibolus Sayi, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. VII. 

Spec. char. — Black, each scale above with a large circu- 
lar or subcircular white or yellow spot in the centre. Some- 
times only transverse lines of these spots across the back. 

Syn. — Herpctodryas getulus, Schl. Ess. Phys. Serp. Part. 

descr. II, 1837, 198. 
Coronella Sayi, Holbr. (non Schl.) N. Amer. Herp. Ill, 

1842, 99. PL xxii. 
Coluber Sayi, Dekay, New York Fauna, Rept. 1842, 41. 
Ophibolus Sayi, B. & G., Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 84. 

Desc. — Body, as in most of the other species of the same 
genus, very tense and rigid, with difficulty capable of being 
extended after immersion in alcohol. Vertical plate triangu- 
lar, wider than long; outer edge slightly convex, an angle 
being faintly indicated at the junction of the superciliaries and 
occipitals; shorter than the occipitals, which are short,-longer 
than broad. Postfrontals large, broad ; prefontals smaller. 
Rostral small, not projecting, slightly wedged between pre- 
frontals. Eye very small, orbit about as high as the labial 
below it; centre of the eye a little anterior to the middle of 
the commissure, over the junction of the 3d and 4th labials. 
One anteorbital, vertically quadrate; loral half its height, 
square. Upper labials 7, increasing to the penultimate. 
Lower labials 9; 4th and 5th largest. 

Scales nearly as high as long, hexagonal, truncated at each 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 215 

end. Dorsal rows 21, exterior rather larger, and diminishing 
almost imperceptibly to the back, although all the scales in a 
single oblique row are of very nearly the same shape and 
size. 

The scales on the back and sides are lustrous black, each 
one with a central elliptical or subcircular spot of ivory-white, 
which on the sides occupy nearly the whole of the scale, but 
are smaller towards the back, where they involve one-half to 
one-third of the length. Beneath yellowish white, with broad 
distinct blotches of black, more numerous posteriorly. Skin 
between the scales brown. The plates on the top and sides 
of the head have each a yellowish blotch; the labials are 
yellow, with black at their junction. 

Other specimens agree except in having bright yellow in- 
stead of white as described ; the spots, too, are rather smaller, 
and manifest a slight tendency to aggregation on adjacent 
scales so as to form transverse bands. This is seen more 
decidedly where the back is crossed by about 70 short dotted 
yellow lines; the 56th opposite the anus. The scales be- 
tween have very obsolete spots of lighter, scarcely discernible. 
The sides are yellow, with black spots corresponding to the 
dorsal lines; indeed, there may be indistinctly discerned two 
or three lateral series of alternating blotches. 

In larger specimens from the West, this tendency in the 
spots to aggregation is still more distinct. The back is 
crossed by these dotted lines of the number and relation indi- 
cated, at intervals of four or five scales; the spots on the 
intervening space being obsolete. These lines bifurcate at 
about the 9th outer row, the branches connecting with those 
contiguous, so as to form hexagons ; and these extending to- 
wards the abdomen again, decussate on about the third outer 
row, thus enclosing two series of square, dark spots on each 
side. These lateral markings are, however, not very dis- 
cernible, owing to the confusion produced by the greater 
number of yellow spots. On the edge of the abdomen are 
dark blotches, one opposite each dorsal dark space, the cen- 
tres of the scutellae being likewise blotched, but so as rather 
to alternate with those just mentioned. 

The specimen represented on Plate VII was caught the 16th 
of May, between Cache creek and Red river. Total length 
33^ inches; tail 3f inches; abdominal scutellae 224; subcau- 
dals 49. 



216 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

8. Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. VIII. 

Spec. char. — Muzzle more convex and acute than in O. 
dsjliatus. Body red, encircled by about 25 pairs of broad 
black rings enclosing a white ring: the white mottled with 
black on the sides. Black rings broader than in O. doliatus. 
Upper part of head entirely black. 

Syn. — Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
1853, 90. 

Desc. — Ground color deep-red, encircled by 25 pairs of 
black rings, the 21st opposite the anas, each pair enclosing a 
third ring of white, the latter becoming yellowish by immer- 
sion in alcohol. The black rings are conspicuously broader 
above, the three crossing eight scales on the vertebral row 
anteriorly, and towards the anus about five. Anteriorly the 
intervals between successive pairs consist of about five scales, 
posteriorly only of two or three, thus diminishing considera- 
bly. The black rings contract as they descend, those of each 
pair receding slightly from each other, so as to cause the 
yellow portion to expand about one scale. The black rings 
are contiguous on the abdomen, those of contiguous pairs (not 
of the same pair) sometimes with their intervening spaces 
black. The scales in the white rings are always more or less 
mottled with black, especially along the sides of the body, 
this mottling being very rarely observable on the red portion. 
The anterior black ring of the first pair is extended so as to 
cover the whole head above, except the very tip ; the white 
ring behind it involves the extreme tip of the occipitals. 

A large specimen is much duskier in its colors. The black 
rings extend on the back so that the contiguous rings of adja- 
cent pairs run into each other. There are 28 pairs of rings, 
the 25th opposite the anus. 

Dorsal row of scales, 2] ; abdominal scutellge, 198 ; sub- 
caudal ones, 45. Total length, 20 inches ; length of tail, 2f 
inches. Plate VIII represents the largest of two specimens, 
caught June 14, near Sweetwater creek. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 217 

VII. MASTICOPHIS, B. & G. 

The prominent feature of this genus consists in a very slen- 
der and elongated tail, forming one-third or one-fourth of the 
length. It bears a close relationship to the black snakes, 
(Bascanion,) from which it differs chiefly in the structure of 
the plates on the upper jaw. The scales are smooth and dis- 
posed in fifteen or seventeen dorsal rows. The preanal scu- 
tella is divided. The vertical plate is long and narrow. There 
are two anteorbitals and two postorbitals, these resting against 
the fifth labial. 

9. Masticophis flavigularis, B. &. G. 

Spec, char.— Light dull yellow, tinged with brown above* 
Beneath two longitudinal series of blotches distinct anteriorly. 
In alcohol, and especially when the epidermis is removed, the 
whole animal appears of a soiled white. 

Syn. — Fsammoyhis flavigularis, Hallow., Proc. Acad. Nat. 

Sc. Philad. VI, 1852, 178. 
Masticophis flavigularis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 

1853, 99. 

Desc. — Size very large. Vertical plate broad before, taper- 
ing to the middle, where it is about half as wide as anteriorly, 
thence it runs nearly parallel. Vertical rather shorter than 
occipitals. Greatest breadth across superciliaries less than 
half the length of the portion covered by plates. Occipitals 
moderate. Centre of eye considerably anterior to the cen- 
tre of commissure, over the junction of the 4th and 5th labials. 
Labials 8 above, increasing in size to the 5th, which is elon- 
gated vertically, the 7th elongate and largest. The 5th forms 
part of the inferior and posterior wall of the orbit, as in all the 
species of the genus, resting above against the lower postor- 
bital, with which the 6th labial is not in contact. Dorsal 
scales broader than in Bascanion constrictor, their sides per- 
fectly straight, slightly truncate, with the corners rounded. 
Exterior row largest, rest gradually diminishing. Scales on 
the tail widely truncate. 

The general color, both above and below, may be described 
as a dull straw-yellow, tinged with light olivaceous brown 



218 APPENDIX F. REPTIDES. 

above. This latter tint exists in the form of a shading on the 
centres and towards the tips of the scales, leaving the bases 
yellowish. The proportion of brown increases towards the 
back, and in older specimens sometimes suppresses the yel- 
low. In all instances a darker shade is seen towards the tip 
of each scale. The skin between the scales is yellowish. 
The scutellas anteriorly exhibit each two rather large brown- 
ish blotches, one on each side of the median line, constituting 
two rows on the abdomen, which fade out posteriorly. Some- 
times the series are not discernible, the blotches spreading so 
as to constitute a dark shade to the margins and exterior edges 
of the scutellas. The posterior portions of the plates under 
and on the sides of the head are similarly blotched ; the same 
tendency being observable on the posterior edges of the plates 
on the top of the head, by the deeper shade of the olivaceous 
brown there prevalent. Anteorbitals yellow. One specimen 
was procured 57£ inches long. Abdominal scutellae 191x2. 
The tip of the tail is missing. 

In smaller specimens the blotching beneath is rather more 
decided. In addition to the colors described, the back is 
crossed by indistinct bars of darker, eight or nine scales wide 
and half a scale long. This color is also seen on the skin 
between the scales under the dark bars, where the bases of 
the scales themselves are darker, instead of light. There is 
a tendency towards stripes on the side : first one of light 
brown, on the outer edge of the abdomen; then an interrupted 
yellow one at the junction of the abdominal scutellas and outer 
scales ; then brown again through the centres of the rows. 
This, however, is not very conspicuous. Sometimes the dark 
shades on the sides are tinged with reddish. The obsolete 
transverse bars are seen at intervals of one or two scales. 

This species may prove to be the Coluber testaceus of Say. 
A specimen from Fort Webster, or the Copper Mines, col- 
lected by the U. S. and Mexican Boundary Commission, 
shows the stripes on the sides much more distinctly, running 
through all the dorsal rows anteriorly, and crossed by the in- 
distinct bars already referred to. The contrast between the 
dark chesnut brown spots on each side, and its deeper centre, 
with the clear yellow of the edges, is very distinct. Beneath 
yellow, with the blotches reduced to mere dull spots. 



APPETDIX F. REPTILES. 219 

VIII. LEPTOPHIS, Bell 

The body is elongated and very slender, the tail forming 
more than the third of the entire length. The scales are dis- 
posed in 17 dorsal rows and keeled, except the two outer 
rows, which are smooth. The nostril is situated in the mid- 
dle of a single plate. The eyes are large. The preanal 
scutella is bifid or divided. The color uniformly green. 

10. Leptophis majalis, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. IX. 

Spec. char. — Reddish green above, yellowish white be- 
neath. Body proportionally stouter and tail shorter than 
in L. cestivus. Snout and whole head, including vertical, 
longer than in latter species. Dorsal scales in 17 rows. 

Syn. — Leptophis majalis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 
1853, 107. 

Desc. — Head more pointed, broader on the temporal re- 
gion, and more tapering on the snout than in L. astivus. Ver- 
tical plate subhexagonal, broader, and postfrontals propor- 
tionally larger in comparison with the prefrontals, than in L, 
astivus. Occipitals maintaining more their width posteriorly, 
obtuse-angled behind. Nasal more elongated ; loral smaller, 
and longer than high. Two large temporal shields and a few 
small ones behind. Scales strongly carinated, except the 
outer row, which is perfectly smooth, and the second row, 
which is but slightly carinated. The scales of both of these 
rows are broader than the rest. 

Total length, 28£ inches; length of tail, 9| inches. Abdo- 
minal scutella?, 163x1; subcaudal, 111. The specimen 
figured on Plate IX was caught on the 13th of July at the 
head of Cache creek, near old Wichita village. 



LIZARDS. 

Six species of saurians, or lizards, belonging to six different 
genera, were collected during the exploration of Red river. 



220 



APPENDIX P. REPTILES. 



One of them has proved to be new to science ; two were re- 
cently described for the first time, whilst the three others have 
been long known to herpetologists. 



I. PHRYNOSOMA, Wiegm. 

This genus, including the so-called horned toads or horned 
frogs, more properly horned lizards, is recognisable by a de- 
pressed, broad, and subelliptical body, covered above with 
irregular scales, the majority very small, others quite large, 
pyramidal, raised above the surface of the skin, and scattered 
all over the back, sides, and tail. The head is subtriangular 
and provided with powerful spines or horns, giving to it 
rather a formidable appearance, although all the species of 
this genus are perfectly inoffensive. There are external 
auditive appertures as in most of the lizard tribe. 

In a monograph of the genus appended to Stansbury's Ex- 
ploration of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, six 
species are described as indigenous to North America ; ano- 
ther has since been added to the list. The single species col- 
lected is the most abundant of the genus. 

1. Phrynosoma cornutum, Gray. 

Spec. char. — Nostrils situated within the internal margin 
of the superciliary ridge ; occipital and temporal spines longer 
and more acute than in Ph. orbicular e ; a double row of pyra- 
midal scales on the sides of the abdomen ; scales on the in- 
ferior surface of the head small and slightly keeled, of a general 
uniformity, except one row on each side, somewhat larger, 
pyramidal, acute, slightly raised, and directed outwards and 
backwards ; a series of very large inframaxillary plates, sharp 
on their outer edge, the posterior one of which is transformed 
into a spine. The plates lining the margin of the jaws are 
not prominent. The scales of the belly are proportionally 
small, subquadrangular, keeled, and posteriorly very acute i 
femoral pores undeveloped, or rudimentary in the female 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 221 

Syn. — Phrynosoma, cornutum, Gray, Syn. Rept. in Griff. Anim. 
Kingd. IX, 1831, 45. Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 87. 
PL xi. — Girard in Stansbury's Expl. Val. Great Salt Lake, 
1852, 360. PI. viii, fig, 1—6. 

Agama cornuta, Harl. Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 141. Plate, 
figs. 1 and 2. 

Phrynosoma Harlani, Wiegm. Herp. Mex. 1834, 54. — Dum. 
and Bibr. Erp. gen. IV, 1837, 314. 

Obs. — The color of this species has been well described 
by Dr. Holbrook. We may add that the ground-color above 
in some individuals is of a variable shade of ferruginous red — 
a tint sometimes seen on the inferior surface of the body. The 
belly is either unicolor, or else spotted as in P. orbiculare. Nu- 
merous specimens of this species were collected during the 
exploration of Red river; some on the prairie between Camps 
2 and 3 ; others between Camps 6 and 7, and at Camp 7 
also , others still on the south fork of Red river, and several 
other localities. 



II. CROTAPHYTUS, Holbr. 

Noticed for the first time during Major Long's expedition. 
The type of this genus was briefly described by Say in the 
second volume of Long's Narrative, and there called Agama 
collaris, in allusion to the very striking feature of bearing a 
double black sub-crescentic band on the sides of the neck. 
The genus Crotaphytus was first established by Dr. Holbrook, 
and is characterized by the presence of small, polygonal plates 
on the whole surface of the head. The odd occipital plate 
itself is inconspicuous; the auditive apertures are very broad- 
ly open. Teeth are found on the jaws and palate. There is 
a fold of the skin under the throat ; the head is large and sub- 
triangular ; the body covered with minute scales ; and the tail 
very long and tapering. Femoral pores present. 

This genus now includes four North American species ; three 
we have lately described under the names of C. Wislizenii, 



4 
222 APPENDIX F.— REPTILES. 

from Ne*v Mexico, C. Gambelii, from California, and C. dor- 
salis, from the desert of Colorado; the fourth is the following: 

2. Crotaphytus collaris, Holbr. 

Spec. char. — Tail conical, very long and tapering ; head 
large, sub-triangular, rounded at the snout ; two subcrescentic 
black bars, margined with white on each side of the neck ; the 
largest extends from the origin of ijie fore-legs to near the 
dorsal line ; the second of these black bars is smaller, and sit- 
uated between the latter and the head. 

Syn. — Crotaphytus collaris, Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 
79. PL x. 

Agama collaris, Say, in Long's Exp. Rocky Mts. II, 1823, 
252.— Had. Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 142. 

Obs. — The specimens on hand exhibit several varieties of 
coloration worthy of being noticed : thus two specimens from 
Gypsum Bluffs, on Red river — a rocky locality present a 
green ground-color above, with large blue patches and bright 
yellow spots ; underneath light-green, almost uniform, except 
under the head, which is deeper and provided with blue, irre- 
gularly enlongated spots ; another specimen from the same 
locality has brown as the predominating tint. Light-brown 
stripes are seen on the legs and tail ; similar spots on the body 
and head ; four rows of red spots on the back ; belly light- 
brown ; light reddish-brown under the tail and feet. 

Specimens from the head of the south fork of Red river have 
either a bluish-gray back, with white spots, a bluish-white 
belly, and the interior surface of fore-legs reddish, or else the 
back is 3^ellow and green. 

The above memoranda, on the coloration, were taken on 
the spot by Capt. Marcy. The general distribution of color 
appears to indicate sexual differences ; thus all the specimens 
before us in which the spots have a tendency to arrange them- 
selves in transverse bands, or even where transverse narrow 
bands take the place of the spots, have proved to be females. 
The ground-color, however, varies in both sexes. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 223 



III. HOLBROOKIA, Girard. 

The genus Holbroolcia bears a striking resemblance to the 
one just described ; it has the same general form, the same 
sub-triangular head, covered with small polygonal plates, a 
fold under the throat, small scales on the back, and femoral 
pores. The tail is perhaps smaller in proportion to the size 
of the body. The absence of an external auditive aperture 
will, however, at once characterize it generic ally from all its 
allies. The absence of teeth on the palatine bones is another 
organic character by which the genus HolbrooMa can be dis- 
tinguished from Crotaphytus. From Homalosaurus it differs 
only by the absence of an external auditive aperture. 

The species upon which the genus was originally based is 
the one collected by the expedition. 

Three other species were found in Texas, and described 
by us under the names of H. ajjinis, propinqua, and texana, (see 
Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadel- 
phia, August, 1852.) 

3. Holbrookia maculata, Girard. 

Spec. char. — Above light-brown, with two dorsal series 
of irregularly crescent-shaped black spots convex posteriorly, 
and provided with an olivaceous margin ; flanks with small 
crowded yellowish or reddish spots ; two, occasionally three, 
deep-bluish black spots on the sides of the abdomen ; be- 
neath unicolor, either of a soiled white or yellow tint; some- 
times irregular bluish vittae under the head. 

Syn. — Holbroolcia maculata, Girard, Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. 
ofSc. IV, (1850,) 1851,210; and in Stansbury's Expl. 
Valley of Great Salt Lake, 1852, 342. Plate vi, fig. 1—3. 

Obs. — A full description, as well as a figure of this species, 
may be found in the Report of Captain Howard Stansbury on 
the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah; rendering it un- 
necessary to reproduce either here. 



224 APPENDIX F. — REPTILES. 

Numerous specimens were collected on the Canadian river 
and surrounding localities. 

IV. SCELOPORUS, Wiegm. 

The genus has the general appearance of Holbrookia, but 
is provided with large auditive apertures, large imbricated 
and carinated scales on the back in most instances ; and 
smooth scales on the belly. The subguttural fold of the 
former, however, is not to be seen here and on the surface of 
the head ; the plates, though small, are larger, especially the 
occipital. There are no teeth on the palate. 

Most of the species of this genus are Mexican ; one is com- 
mon in the United States, and known as the brown or fence 
lizard. A second species was discovered by Captain Stans- 
bury in the valley of the Great Salt Lake. Another species 
inhabits the western States, and a fourth is peculiar to Oregon. 

4. SCELOPORUS CONSOBRINUS, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. X, Figs. 5-12. 

Spec. char. — Ground color above brownish, with a series 
of small black spots, eight or ten in number, on each side of 
the dorsal line. A yellowish stripe outside of the spots, and 
a black band beneath the stripe. A greenish area between 
the black band above and the elongated blue patch on the 
sides of the abdomen. Beneath, greenish blue. 

Desc. — This species bears a close relationship to S. graci- 
osus, from the valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, in the 
description of which the remarkably large size of the dorsal 
scales was mentioned as constituting one of its most distin- 
guishing features, when compared to S. scalaris. In the 
present species the dorsal scales are proportionally still larger 
than in S. graciosus. Its body and head are also more slender 
and narrower. The tail is more tapering and elongated, and 
constitutes almost three-fifths of the total length. In colora- 
tion the differences between the two species are very striking. 

The head is subelliptical, depressed, declive towards the 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 225 

snout, which is rather pointed. The superciliary region is 
but slightly raised above the plane of the vertex. The rostral 
plate is subtriangular, very low, and elongated transversely. 
The nostrils are almost circular, situated in the middle of a 
small plate, separated from the rostral by two small interven- 
ing ones. There are ten or twelve internasal and very small 
plates, and nine somewhat larger frontals, the middle one the 
largest. There are two verticals, (or frontals,) the anterior one 
the largest. The occipital is large and pentagonal, surrounded 
by four or six smaller plates, two anterior of medium size, 
contiguous to the postvertical, two lateral, larger and triangu- 
lar, exteriorly to which two smaller ones may be observed. 
There are three or four subhexagonal, transversely elongated, 
plates on the superciliary region, surrounded internally by 
one row and externally by two rows of minute plates. The 
superciliary edge is formed by five sharp and imbricated thin 
plates; it is continued in the shape of a ridge to the nostril by 
means of two sharply-keeled plates. The suborbitals are two 
in number, the posterior one much the longest. There is a 
small loral. 

The plates which line the jaws are subquadrangular, very 
narrow and elongated, four above and five below, the latter 
considerably larger. Above the series of plates of the upper 
jaw, and between the suborbitals, two series of small and ir- 
regular plates may be observed. Four or five inframaxiliary 
plates constitute a series on each side of the lower surface of 
the head, joined anteriorly by the subpentagonal symphysal 
plate. Between the inframaxiliary series and the series lining 
the lower jaw exists a series of four or five elongated and 
small plates. 

The auditive aperture, which is proportionally large, is oval, 
and almost vertical in its longest diameter. At its anterior 
margin may be seen two or three scales, larger and more 
pointed than those on the temporal region. Behind the audi- 
tive aperture, and situated obliquely on the neck, is a slight 
fold of the skin. 

The neck is somewhat contracted, the body slender and 
depressed, with the back, however, slightly arched, and the 
belly flat. The tail, as already mentioned, is quite long and 
slender, depressed at its base, and hence conical towards the 
tip. 

The fore-legs, when stretched backwards along the sides, 
extend nearly to the groin, while the hind-legs, when brought 
forward, reach almost to the ear. 
15 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

The scales are imbricated and keeled on the back and 
sides. Their general shape is that of a lozenge, terminated 
posteriorly by an acute spine. There are ten longitudinal 
rows along the back, with five on each side, which are some- 
what oblique, and smaller. Underneath, the scales are- 
smooth, posteriorly tricuspid on the belly, whilst under the 
head and throat they have but two posterior spines. The 
scales below as well as above the fore-legs are keeled. 
Those on the upper part of the hind-legs are also keeled, 
whilst on the thighs they are smooth. The fingers and toes 
are surrounded with carinated scales to their very tips. 

The femoral pores, thirteen or fourteen in number on each 
side, are conspicuous and situated in the middle of one single 
small plate. 

The black spots in the series along the back are compara- 
tively small, and separated from each other by a space greater 
than their diameters. The yellow stripe extends from the 
origin of the neck to beyond the anus, the black from above 
the shoulder to the groin. The blue patch is elongated and 
narrow, terminated posteriorly by a black stripe which runs 
for a little distance along the thigh. There is an elongated 
black spot on the shoulder. 

One specimen was collected on the 6th of June. 

Plate X, fig. 5, represents the species in profile and of the 
natural size. 

Fig. 6. The side of the head enlarged, to show more dis- 
tinctly the structure of its plates. 

Fig. 7. Head from above, enlarged in the same proportion 
as fig. 6 

Fig. 8. Head from below, enlarged. 

Fig. 9. The right arm and fingers, seen from below. 

Fig. 10. The right leg and toes, seen from below. 

Fig. 11. Dorsal scales, enlarged four times. 

Fig. 12. Scales from the belly, slightly enlarged. 



V. CNEMIDOPHORUS, WagL 

This genus is characterized by a bifid tongue ; a double- 
transverse fold of skin under the throat ; teeth on the palate ; 
maxillary teeth compressed, the posterior one tricuspid ; 
femoral pores ; broad plates under the thighs ; fingers not 
carinated underneath ; and a subcylindrical, very long and 



00*7 
APPENDIX F. REPTILES. *<> ' 

tapering tail. The body above is covered with minutely 
crowded scales ; whilst on the belly there are eight longitudi- 
nal rows of subquadrangular, transversely elongated plates, 
or scutelke. On the tail the scales are quite large and very 
conspicuous, strongly carinated and constituting circular rows 

or whorls. 

The explorations of the last few years in Texas and New 
Mexico have brought to light several other species of the 
genus Cnemidophorus, all provided with eight longitudinal 
rows of abdominal scutellae. These are C. gracilis, from the 
desert of the Colorado ; C. perplexus, from the upper valley of 
the Rio Grande ; C. gularis, C. Grahamii, and C. marmoraius, 
from different localities in Texas. 

The discovery of C. gularis in Arkansas is an interesting 
fact in regard to its geographical distribution 

5. Cnemidophorus gularis, B. & G. 

Zoology, PL X, fig. 1—4. 

Spec. char. — Ground color brownish, with six longitudinal 
stripes, green or yellow ; beneath yellowish white, unicoior. 
Scales' on the subguttural fold quite large and conspicuous in 
proportion to those in other species. 

&YX.—Cnemidophoi-us gularis, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. 
Sci., PhilacL vi, 1852, 128. 

tj esc . — This species is very closely allied to C. sexlineaitis, 
having, like the latter, six longitudinal stripes, three on each 
side of the body, running from head to some distance along 
the tail. It .has, also, the same general form ; but on a close 
comparison it will soon be observed that the body is propor- 
tionally shorter, the limbs more developed, whilst the scales 
on the back appear to be actually larger. The head is pro- 
portionally smaller and narrower. But the most striking or- 
ganic character consists in the presence of somewhat large 
and conspicuous scales on the margin of the subguttural fold 
of the skin. The following indications of color are derived 
from the notes of the expedition : The upper surface of the 
head is reddish brown ; three longitudinal yellow or greenish 



228 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

stripes extending from the head to the origin of the tail ; the 
middle stripe on each side may be followed on the tail to a 
considerable distance. The dorsal space between the two 
uppermost stripes on each side is brown, or reddish brown, 
like the head above. The space between the uppermost and 
middle stripes is of a deep black, and extends from the upper 
angle of the orbit down to a certain distance along the tail. 
The space between the middle and lower stripes, and between 
the latter and the abdominal scutellee, is green or greenish 
brown. The legs are brownish red, and the belly white or 
bluish white. The tail underneath is yellowish red ; above, 
brownish, or reddish brown. 

Specimens were collected on the 5th and 6th of June. 

Plate X, fig. 1, represents Cnemidophorus gularis of natural 
size. 

Fig. 2. Head seen from above, to exhibit the plates. 

Fig. 3 shows the scales on the subguttural fold and the hand 
from beneath, as well as the submaxillary plates. 

Fig 4 represents the femoral pores, the preanal plates, and 
also the plates at the inferior surface of the hind legs, and the 
lower surface of the feet. 



VI. LYGOSOMA, Gray. 

This genus includes small scincoid lizards, the nostrils of 
which open in one single plate, the nasal. The supranasals 
are wanting. The palate is without teeth, and provided with 
a triangular notch situated far back. The scales, broader than 
long, are all smooth. a 

All the species of Lygosoma belong to the Old World except 
the one here mentioned. 

6. Lygosoma lateralis, Duni. and B. 

Spec. char. — Upper part of head and bod} r chestnut-brown ; 
a black lateral band extending from the snout across the eye 
to a considerable distance along the tail. Flanks grayish- 
brown, with longitudinal indistinct, darker, interrupted vittae, 
Abdomen yellowish, and tail beneath bluish; circumference 
of scales mottled with gray. Tail longer than the body. 
Limbs very small. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 229 

Syn. — Scincus lateralis, Say, in Long's Exp. Rock. Mts. II, 
1823, 324.— Harl. Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc, V, 1827, 221, 
and VI, 1829, 12.— Holbr. N. Amer. Herp., first ed., I, 
1836, 71. PI. viii. 

Scincus unicolor, Harl. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad., V, i, 
1825, 156. 

Tiliqua lateralis, Gray, Syn. Rept., in Griff. Anim. Kingd., 
Cuv. IX, 1831, 70. 

Lygosoma lateralis, Dum. and B., Erp. gen. V, 1839, 719. 
Holb. N. Amer. Herp, second ed., II, 1842, 133. PL xix. 

This small and graceful species appears to be spread over 
a large portion of the United States. It is always met with 
running on the surface of the ground in forests, among dead 
leaves, never ascending either trees or shrubs like many other 
lizards. 

The body is sub-quadrangular, the head continuous with it, 
and, like it, flattened above. The tail is sub-circular, tapering 
into a point. The plates of the head correspond with the de- 
scriptions w r hich we have before us, except that the fronto- 
nasals are not contiguous, but separated by a small odd plate 
directly in advance of the vertical, (sometimes called frontal.) 
But this peculiarity of structure is not indicative of any spe- 
cific difference. 

The auditive apertures are large, circular, and their margin 
simple. The fore-legs, when extended forward, reach the eye. 
The hind-legs are a little longer and stouter than the fore-legs. 
The scales are perfectly smooth, uniform above and below, 
and disposed in thirty longitudinal rows around the body. 
The two middle preanal scutellas considerably larger. 

One specimen was procured near the mouth of Cache 
creek on the 16th of May. 



BATRACHIANS. 

Of this order of reptiles only two species were procured — 
a toad and a frog. 

1. Bufo cognatus, Say. 

Zoology, PI. XL 

Spec. char. — Greenish brown above, with a lighter yel- 
lowish dorsal line. Patches of blackish-brown, scattered 



230 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



over the sides and legs. Beneath unieolor of a dingy yellow. 
Head short, groove on its upper surface, not extending to the 
anterior rim of the eye. 

Syn. — Bufo cognatus, Say, in Long's Exp. to Rock. Mts. II, 
1823, 190. 

Obs. — It is not without hesitation that we have referred the 
present species to Bufo cognatus ; the description of Say as 
cited is exceedingly brief, applying almost equally well to 
several allied species. The colors of our specimen varv 
considerably from the B. cognatus as described by Say ; but 
the characters of the groove of the crown agree better. The 
mark of "head with a groove which hardly extends anteriorly 
to the line of the anterior canthus of the eye," although not 
strictly in accordance with our species, may, with some al- 
lowance, be made to answer to it. It is much to be regretted 
that the original specimen of Say was destroyed in the con- 
flagration of the Philadelphia Museum, and thus all hopes of 
identification are lost. If, however, further explorations in 
Arkansas should yield many additional specimens, all differing 
as much as the present from Say's description, it will become 
necessary to assign a new name to it, especially if the true B» 
cognatus be at the same time detected. 

DEScpaPTioN. — The head is very short, the snout obtuse 
and truncate, with the nostrils subterminal. Upper service of 
head grooved ; groove subelliptical and short, not extending 
anteriorly to the anterior rim of the eye (fig 2.) The super- 
ciliary ridges thicken from before backwards, extending to 
the tympanum in passing obliquely behind the eyes, and in 
contact also with the parotid glands, which are subovoidal 
and of medium size. Tympanum rather small, subelliptical ; 
its longest diameter almost vertical. The fore and hind legs 
are well proportioned to the size of the body. The under 
surface of the hand is provided with small crowded tubercles, 
a more conspicuous and a larger one at the articulations of 
the fingers ; the fingers themselves are depressed or flattened. 
A larger disc-like knob is observed on the middle and at the 
base of the hand (fig 3.) 

The toes (fig. 4) are but slightly webbed, and, like the fin- 
gers, depressed. The fourth is conspicuously the longest, and 
the third a little longer than the filth. The under surface of 
the feet (fig. 5) is covered with smaller tubercles than those 
of the hands. A large spade-like process exists at the base 
of the first or inner toe, exteriorly to which, and at the base 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 231 

still of the metatarsus, is a small knob-like tubercle. The 
body is thickly covered with papilla?, with some large ones 
more conspicuous along the sides of the back ; on the flanks 
they are smaller, similar to those of the intervening spaces on 
the back; on the abdomen the papilla? are smaller still; upper 
part of hands and feet minutely granulated. The snout alone 
is smooth. 

The dark patches scattered over the upper part of the ani- 
mal are margined with a light yellowish line. Sinuating yel- 
lowish lines may be observed on the sides of the belly, or 
flanks and legs. A rather large spot is seen beneath the eye, 
and another in advance and beneath the tjanpanum near the 
angle of the mouth. 

One specimen procured near the Water-hole between Camps 
6 and 7. 

Plate XI, fig. 1, represents Bufo cognatus of natural size. 

Fig. 2. The head from above. 

Fig. 3. Left hand seen from below. 

Fig. 4. Right foot from above. 

Fig. 5. Right foot from below. 

2. Rana pipiens, Latr. — Bullfrog. 

Spec. char. — Toes webbed to their extremity, fourth toe 
one-fourth longer than the third and fifth. An elongated tuber- 
cle at the base of the first toe ; sub-articular tubercles of fin- 
gers and toes but slightly developed. Vomerine teeth on two 
rounded and separated elevations situated between the inter- 
nal nostrils. Diameter of tympanum (in the specimen before 
us) greater than the diameter of the eye. 

Syn. — Rana pipie7is, Latr. Hist. Nat. Rept. II, 1802, 153. 
Harl. Amer. Jour. Sc. X, 62. Med. & Phys. Res., 1835, 
101 ; and Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. V, 1827, 335. 
Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. IV, 1842, 77. PI. xviii. 

Rana Mugiens, Merr. Tent. Syst. Amph. 1820, 175. Dum. 
& B. Erp. gen. VIII, 1841, 370. 

The bullfrog is quite a common animal in the United States, 
though its northern, western, and southern limits are not yet 
accurately known. A large specimen was found in a cold 
spring near the head of the south fork of Cache creek, in the 
Witchita mountains. The upper parts of body and limbs are 
covered with warty eminences, more crowded on the body. 



232 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

These warts are perfectly smooth, like the skin itself. The 
ground-color is greenish brown above, with crowded deep 
brown or blackish spots. Beneath, dull yellow, with clouded 
bluish patches. The lower surface of the feet has the same 
marmorated appearance as the back. The jaws and snout 
are greenish brown, and perfectly smooth. 

The specimen before us is remarkable for the size of its 
tympanum, which is much larger than the eye. 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 



233 



FISHES. 

BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD, 



1. POMOTIS LONGULUS, B. & G. 
Zoologi, PL XII. 

Spec char. — -General form elongated. Opercular flap 
rather small and entirely black. Twenty-seven to twenty- 
nine rows of scales across the line of greatest depth of body? 
and about thirteen rows on the tail. Fifty-two scales in the 
lateral line. 

Syn. — Pomotis Imgulus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc 
Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 

Description. — The body is very much compressed, and 
more elongated than usual in the genus Pomotis — so much so, 
indeed, as to resemble Grystes even more than Centrarchu^ 
The head constitutes a little less than the third of the total 
length, including the caudal fin ; it is subcorneal, with a little 
depression upon the middle of the skull. The eyes are large 
and circular, and their diameter is contained five times in the 
length of the head, measured from the tip of the snout to the 
extremity of the opercular flap. The posterior extremity of 
the maxillary reaches a point opposite the middle of the pupih 
The cheeks are densely covered with small and imbricated 
scales. The largest scales are on the opercular apparatus, 
(the preopercular excepted,) where they are also imbricated. 
The opercular is subtriangular ; its upper angles rounded, and 
the posterior one terminated by a membranous and rather 
small flap, entirely black. The subopercular extends along 
the interior edge of the opercular, tapering slightly upwards. 
The interopercular forms a regular curve immediately be- 
neath the preopercular, and is covered with one row of scales, 
there being a double row of these upon the subopercular. 

The dorsal fin is rather low, especially its spiny portion. 
Its anterior margin is exactly opposite to the opercular flap. 



234 APPENDIX F.— FISHES. 

There are ten spiny rays and nine soft ones, the last being 
double and the shortest. The first, second, third, fourth, fifth, 
and sixth rays increase gradually in length in the order enu- 
merated ; the eighth is equal to the sixth ; the ninth is the 
longest. They all (the soft rays) bifurcate from their middle, 
and then again subdivide from four-fifths of their length to the 
tip. The caudal fin is subcrescentic posteriorly; its angles 
are rounded; its length contained five times and a half in that 
of the body and head together. The central rays bifurcate 
three times upon their length. There are seventeen rays in 
all, with a few rudimentary ones. The anal is well devel- 
oped ; its three anterior spiny rays are the shortest, and not 
very conspicuous. The eight remaining ones are soft and 
articulated; similar in structure to those of the dorsal fin. 
The ventrals are inserted behind the base of the pectorals; 
their tip, when bent backwards, reaching the anus, which is 
situated a quarter of an inch in advance of the anterior mar- 
gin of the anal fin. This is subtriangular, posteriorly sub- 
truncated, composed of an anterior spiny ray, and five soft 
and articulated ones, which bifurcate twice. The pectoral 
extends backwards as far as the ventrals. Its rays, fifteen in 
number, are all soft and very slender, bifurcating twice. Only 
thirteen of these rays are well developed. The formula of 
the fins is as follows : 

D X. 9 + 3 ; A III. 8; C 2. I. 8. 7. I. 1; V I. 5; P 15. 

The scales are of medium size, longer than high, truncated 
anteriorly, rounded posteriorly, and finely denticulated, as seen 
in fig. 4. The lateral line does not extend beyond the inser- 
tion of the rays of the caudal, the base of which is covered 
c with scales irregularly disposed. The smallest scales are 
observed under the head, upon the throat; the largest on the 
peduncle of the tail. 

The color is not sufficiently preserved in the single speci- 
men collected to admit of description. Traces of irregular 
lines are, however, visible upon the cheeks and opercular ap- 
paratus. 

Found in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Plate XII, fig. 1. PomoUts longulus, in profile, and of the 
size of life. 

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale taken on the middle of the back, 
above the lateral line. 

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line, exhibiting the mucuous 
tube. 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 235 

Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the abdomen, below the 
lateral line. 

Figs. 2 — 4. are magnified twelve times. 

2. POMOTIS BREVICEPS, B. & G. 
Zoology, PI. XIII. 

Spec. char. — General form short and stout, subelliptical; 
opercular flap very much developed, and directed upwards, 
black with a lighter margin. Twenty-four rows of scales 
across the line of greatest depth, and twelve rows on the 
peduncle of the tail. Thirty-seven scales on the lateral line. 

Syn. — Pomotis breviceps, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
Phil. VI, 1853, 309. 

Description. — The abbreviated head constitutes two-sev- 
enths of the entire length, the caudal fin included. Middle 
of the cranium slightly depressed. Nostrils nearer to the eye 
than to the tip of the snout. Eyes of medium size and circu- 
lar ; their diameter is contained four times only in the length 
of the head from the snout to the base of insertion of the oper- 
cular flap, which is longer than a diameter of the eye. The 
mouth is proportionally small ; the posterior extremity of the 
maxillary not extending as far back as the middle of the pupil. 
The teeth are slender and more conspicuous than in Pomotis 
longulus. Cheeks covered with scales, but slightly smaller 
than those on the opercular apparatus. The opercular bones 
have the same general shape as in Pomotis longulus ; but the 
opercular flap is very much developed, longer than broad, 
and rounded posteriorly. The structure of this flap is some- 
what similar to a fin ; slender and simple rays being distinctly 
visible through the membrane. 

The dorsal fin commences in a line above the base of the 
opercular flap. Its spinous portion is almost as elevated as 
the soft one. There are eleven spinous rays, the first and 
second smallest; and ten articulated or soft ones, occupying 
a little more than half the space as the spines. The struc- 
ture of the soft rajs and their relative length are much as in 
Pomotis longulus; they bifurcate from the middle of their length, 
and subdivide again upon their extremity. The caudal is 
subcrescentic posteriorly, and its angles rounded. It is com- 
posed of seventeen well developed rays, and a few rudimen- 



236 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 



tary ones. The central rays bifurcate three times. The anal 
fin is composed of nine soft rays, one more than in P. longulus, 
and three spinous ones ; the second and third almost equal in 
length. They bifurcate and divide in the same manner as 
the dorsal. The insertion of the ventrals is immediately be- 
hind the base of the pectorals. Their shape is triangular, 
and when bent backwards their tip extends to the anterior 
margin of the anal fin, thus overlapping the anus, which is 
situated as in P. longulus, about a quarter of an inch in ad- 
vance of the anterior margin of the anal fin. The ventrals 
are composed of one spinous and five articulated rays, which 
bifurcate three times. The insertion of the pectorals is sub- 
crescentic ; the tip of these fins reaches about as far back as 
do the ventrals. The rays, fourteen in number, (thirteen of 
them well developed,) are slender and show traces of a bifur- 
cation of the third degree upon their extremity. 

D XL 10; A III. 9; C 2. I. 8. 7. I. 2; V I. 5; P 14. 

The scales are proportionally large, higher than long, sub- 
truncated anteriorly, and rounded posteriorly with minute 
denticulations. Scales, irregularly disposed, exist on the base 
of the caudal. The largest scales are seen on the middle of 
the flanks, and the smallest upon the subthoracic region. The 
ground-color appears to have been of a uniform reddish 
brown. The opercular flap is deep black, margined with a 
lighter line, the hue of which is not preserved. There are 
several sinuous irregular lines upon the cheeks and opercular 
apparatus. 

This species has a general resemblance to Pomotis nietidus, 
Kirt., but may easily be distinguished by prominent char- 
acters. 

One specimen was caught in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Plate XIII, Pomotis breviceps of natural size. 

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale. 

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line. 

Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the belly. 

Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times. 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 237 

3. Leuciscus vigilax, B. & G.* 

Zoology, PL XIV, figs. 1-4. 

Spec. char. — Subfusiforra. Dorsal fin longer than high. 
Sixteen rows of scales across the line of greatest depth, and 
eight on the peduncle of the tail. Thirty-eight to forty scales 
in the lateral line, which runs through the middle of the sides, 
slightly bent downwards on the abdomen. 

Syn. — Ceratichthys vigilax, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 

Description. — Body subfusiform, compressed. The head 
forms one-fifth of the entire length from the snout to the tip 
of the caudal fin ; it is contained three times in the length of 
the body, the caudal fin being about one-fifth of the entire 
length. The head itself has the shape of a truncated cone. 
The eyes are subelliptical ; their longitudinal diameter being 
contained three times and a half in the length of the sides of 
the head. The mouth is rather small, its angle not extending 
to a point below the anterior rim of the eyes. The opercular 
bone is conspicuously large, and almost trapezoidal in shape. 
The subopercular and preopercular are comparatively small, 
The isthmus beneath is about three-tenths of an inch wide. 

The dorsal fin is longer than high, and is composed of nine 
rays, bifurcated from about their middle ; some of the median 
rays showing another subdivision upon their extremity. The 
caudal fin is forked; its angles are acute. It contains eigh- 
teen well-developed rays, and several rudimentary ones above 
and below ; the central ones bifurcate twice. The base of 
the caudal fin is considerably broader (higher) than the cen- 
tral portion of the peduncle of the tail. The anal fin is situ- 
ated behind the dorsal, is higher than long, subtrapezoidal, 
and composed of eight bifurcated rays ; the central ones sub- 
divided towards their extremity. The ventrals are inserted 
very little behind the anterior margin of the dorsal ; they are 
rather slender, posteriorly rounded, composed of eight bifur- 
cated rays, the middle ones bifurcated towards their extremity : 

*Note. — Owing to the immature state of the specimens, we have preferred 
returning this species to the genus Leuciscus. Although having a strong resem- 
blance to Ceratichthys, as also to Pimephales, in the bluntness of the snout, the 
inferior position of the mouth, and other characters, yet the specimen is almost 
too small to allow a final determination as to its generic character. 



238 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 



and when bent backwards the fin does not reach quite to the 
anus, which is situated immediately in advance of the anterior 
margin of the anal fin. The pectorals are slender ; when 
bent backwards they do not reach the insertion of the ven- 
trals. They are composed of fourteen bifurcated rays, the 
central ones subdividing at their last third. Formula : 

D 9; A 8; C 3. I. 8. 8. I. 3; V 8; P 14. 

The scales are proportionally large, a little higher than long, 
rounded at both extremities, more abruptly posteriorly. The 
lateral line runs along the middle of the side, slightly bent 
downwards on the abdomen. 

The ground-color is yellowish brown; a blackish stripe 
composed of crowded dots follows the lateral line on the 
sides. 

One specimen (immature) caught in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Plate XIV, fig. J, represents Leuciscus vigilax, size of life. 

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale. 

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line. 

Fig. 4. Abdominal scale. 

Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times. 

4. Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. XIV, figs. 5-8. 

Spec. char. — Compressed. Back arched. Tail slender. 
Dorsal fin higher than long. Ten rows of scales across the 
line of greatest depth, and five rows on the tail. The lateral 
line, which contains about thirty-six scales, runs below the 
middle of the flanks. Dorsal, caudal, anal, and ventral fins 
well developed. 

Syn. — Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 

Description. — The body much compressed, and rather 
short in appearance. Back considerably arched in advance 
of the dorsal, behind which the body tapers quite rapidly pos- 
teriorly, rendering the peduncle of the tail comparatively 
slender. The head is about one-fifth of the entire length. 
Eyes comparatively large and circular ; their diameter con- 
tained three times and a half in the length of the head, one 
diameter intervening between the eye and the snout. The 
nostrils are nearer to the eyes than to the tip of the snout. 



APPENDIX F.-—F1SHES* Z6\S 

The jaws are even, (the figure represents the lower one a little 
too short.) The opercular apparatus is conspicuously devel- 
oped, especially the opercular, which has the shape of an 
elongated quadrangle, slightly concave posteriorly, and slight- 
ly rounded inferiorly. The isthmus is quite small. 

The anterior margin of the dorsal fin corresponds to the 
middle of the distance between the snout and the base of the 
caudal fin. It is angular and higher than long, and composed 
of eight rays. The anal has the same. length as the dorsal, 
but is not quite as high ; it is composed of nine articulated 
•rays and two minute spines at the anterior margin. The 
ventrals when bent backwards reach the anterior margin of 
the anal fin, consequently overlapping the anus situated close 
to the anal fin. They contain eight rays, all soft or articu- 
lated. The pectorals are comparatively small and slender, 
reaching the insertion of the ventrals when brought back- 
wards. Their posterior margin is rounded ; the rays eleven 
in number. In all the fins the rays are bifurcated, and the 
middle ones subdivided upon their length. Formula : 
D 8 ; A II. 9 ; C 4. I. 9. 9. I. 3 ; V 8 ; P 11. 

The scales are large, higher than long, rounded anteriorly, 
subtruncated posteriorly. The lateral liner forms a very open 
curve, convex downwards, and nearer to the insertion of the 
ventrals than to the base of dorsal. 

The ground-color is grayish ; the hue is not preserved on 
the specimen. 

Caught, like the preceding, in Otter Creek, Arkansas. 

Fig. 5 represents Leuciscus bubalinus the size of life, and ap- 
parently quite mature. 

Fig. 6. A dorsal scale. 

Fig. 7. Scale from the lateral line. 

Fig. 8. Abdominal scale. 

Figs. 6-8 are enlarged twelve times. 

5. Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. XIV, figs. 9-12. 

Spec, char.— Subfusi form, compressed. Insertion of ven= 
trals in advance of dorsal. Twelve rows of scales across 
the line of greatest depth ; six rows on the tail. About thirty- 
six in the lateral line, which is bent downwards on the abdo- 
men and slightly broken in advance of the anal fin. Dorsal 
and anal fins well developed. 



240 APPENDIX F.— FISHES. 

Syn. — Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 
Philad. VI, 1853, 391. 

Description. — 'The body is much compressed and subfu- 
siform in general appearance, somewhat tapering from the 
posterior margin of the dorsal and anal fins to the caudal, the 
base of which is broader than the peduncle of the tail. The 
greatest depth is equal to the length of the sides of the head, 
which is contained three times and a half in the total length, 
the caudal fin included. The greatest thickness is nearly 
half of the depth. In general aspect it resembles Leuciscus 
Jcenluclcierisis of Kirtland. The eyes are of medium size, sub- 
circular ; their diameter contained four times in the length of 
the sides of the head. The nostrils, situated towards the upper 
surface of the head, are nearer to the eyes than to the tip of 
the snout. The posterior extremity of the maxillary does not 
reach the vertical of the anterior rim of the orbit. 

The upper and posterior margins of the opercular consti- 
tute a uniform curve, whilst the anterior and inferior margins 
are straight, forming a rather acute angle. The subopercu- 
lars and interoperculars are comparatively small. 

The anterior margin of the dorsal fin is situated on the mid- 
dle of the distance between the snout and the base of the 
caudal; the fin itself is quadrangular, higher than long, and 
composed of eight rays, the last double, and the anterior rudi- 
mentary in close contact with the next. The anal is shaped 
somewhat like the dorsal; it has nine perfect rays, and an 
anterior rudimentary one. The caudal is deeply forked with 
acute angles, and shorter than the head. It is composed of 
nineteen well developed rays, and several rudimentary ones, 
above and below. The ventrals are posteriorly rounded, (a 
character not expressed in the figure,) composed of eight rays, 
and when bent backwards their tips reach the anus, which is 
situated immediately in advance of the anal fin. The pecto- 
rals are elongated, rather slender, rounded, and their tip not 
quite reaching the insertion of the ventrals. They are com- 
posed of eleven slender, bifurcated, but not subdivided rays. 
The median rays of the dorsal, caudal, anal, and ventrals, are 
subdivided for at least one-fourth of their length, the bifurca- 
tion beginning sometimes upon their middle. Formula : 

D 8 + 1 ; A 1. 9 ; C 2. I. 9. 8. I. 1 ; V 8 ; P 11. 

The scales are proportionally large, higher than long ; an- 
terior, superior, and inferior margins, uniformly rounded, pos- 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 241 

terioiiy subtruncated. The lateral line is considerably bent 
down on the abdomen, and slightly broken in advance of the 
anal fin. 

The ground-color, as preserved in alcohol, is dull bluish 
brown ; the back is bluish ; the dorsal fin yellowish brown ; 
the caudal, pectorals, and ventrals are reddish. 

Several specimens were caught in Otter creek, Arkansas ; 
the largest of which we have had figured. 

Plate XIV, fig. 9, Leuciscus lutrensis size of life. 

Fig. 10. A dorsal scale from the middle of the region be- 
tween the dorsal fin and the lateral line. 

Fig. 11. A scale of the lateral line taken beneath the dor- 
sal fin. 

Fig. 12. An abdominal scale taken beneath the lateral line, 
~ way between the latter and the line of the belly. 



242 APPENDIX P.— SHELLS. 



SHELLS. 
;y professor c. b. adams. 



Amherst, Massachusetts, 

December 1, 1852. 

Dear Sir : I transmit herewith a list of the shells which 
were collected in Texas and upon Red river by Captain, 
Marcy ; 

And have the honor to remain your obedient servant, 

C. B. ADAMS. 
President Hitchcock. 

ACEPHALA. 

1. Unio asperrimus, Lea» 

The specimens have a great profusion of small tubercles 
on the umbones. One large specimen was taken May 22d ? 
at the foot of the Witchita mountains : 3 mature and 5 young 
shells were taken in Otter creek, July 13th, near the same 
place; long, about 100° W.; lat. about 34° 35' N. 

2. Unio, Sp. indet. 

This may be a variety of the preceding; but with only one 
decayed specimen we do not venture to describe it as a new 
species. It differs in having only a few large tubercles in two 
radiant series, of which one passes down the middle of the 
disc and the other is on the posterior angle. A few small 
curved ridges proceed from this angle to the ligamentary 
margin. No label. 

3. Unio tuberculatus, Barnes. 

A single valve of a young specimen ; no label. 



APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 243 

4. Unio anodontoides, Lea. 

7 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th ; one of 
them is 5 inches long, 2 to 3 inches high, and 1.6 inch wide. 

5. Unio parvus, Barnes. 

2 J specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 

6. Unio hydianus, Lea. 

2 specimens were taken near Fort Washita July 31st. 

7. Unio l^evissimus, Lea. 

The specimen is for this species remarkably thick ; the 
nacre is deeply colored with reddish purple, and there are 
some fine radiating stria? behind the umbones. No label, but 
may have been taken in Otter creek, since it was in the same 
parcel with the next species. 

8. Unio gracilis, Barnes. 

Several specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th, 
and some July 15th, probably in a branch of Cache creek, a 
few miles west of Otter creek. 

9. Cyclas distorta, Prime. 

4£ specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 

GASTEROPODA. 

10. Bulimus liquabilis, Reeve. 

4 specimens (dead) were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 
This is the only terrestrial species in the collection. 

11. Physa ancillaria, Say. 

3 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. Thej 
are more shouldered than is usual, but not so much as the 



244 APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 

variety figured by Professor Haldeman, Monog. Physa, pi. 8 t 
fig. 5. 

12. Physa heterostropha, Say. 
12 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 

13. Lymn^ea caperata, Say. 

2 specimens were taken May 16th, one day from Cache 
creek. 

14. Planorbis lentus, Say, 

Several specimens were taken with the preceding ; also in 
Otter creek, July 13th. 

Geographical distribution. 

Nos. 3, 11, 12, and 13 occur also through the western and 
eastern States. No. 8 has its northeastern limit in Lake 
Champlain. Although Ohio specimens of this species are 
easily distinguished from those of Lake Champlain, it is re- 
markable that these Texan shells cannot be distinguished 
from them. Nos. 5, 6, and 14 are southern species. No. 10 
has hitherto been known only as a Texan shell. The re- 
mainder are western and southern species. 

NOTICES OF ADDITIONAL SPECIES OF SHELLS : BY G. C, SHU= 
MARD, M. D. 

1. Unio anodontoides, Lea, 

Found in the Little Witchita, and in a small creek between 
Fort Washita and Fort Arbuckle ; quite abundant, and the 
specimens very beautiful. 

2. Unio rugosus, Barnes. 

Occurs with the preceding species at all the localities above 
mentioned. The specimens are less ventricose than any we 
have seen from the Ohio basin. They approach more nearly 
to a variety brought by Professor Litton from Red river of 
the north. 



APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 245 

3. Unio siliquoideus, Barnes. 

Found in a small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort 
Washita. 

4. Unio l^evissimus, Lea. 

A few detached valves of this species were found on the 
banks of Otter creek. 



5. Anodonta imbecilis, Say. 

Abundant and very beautiful, in Beaver creek ; more spar- 
ingly in a small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort 
Washita. 

6. Planorbis trivolvis, Say. 

Abundant in many of the streams from Fort Belknap to the 

sources of Red river. 



7. Physa gyrina, Say. 
Beaver creek, Choctaw Nation. 

8. Succinea avara, Sa} 1- . 
Otter creek, Choctaw Nation. 

9. Cyclas parttjmeia, Say. 
Otter and Beaver creek. 

10. Bulimus dealbata, Say. 



246 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 



ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

BY CHARLES GIRARD. 



i 

I. DAIHINIA, Hald. 

Gen. char. — Body rather short, concave above, without 
any traces of wings ; provided with short and robust limbs ; 
second and third joints of tarsi, equal ; antennae long and fili- 
form. A row of spines upon the under surface of the femora, 
more conspicuous in males than in females. 

Syn. — Daihinia, Hald. Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. Sc. II, 
1850, 346. 

Obs. — The general aspect of this genus is that of Phalan- 
gopsis, from which it differs by having "shorter antennae, 
shorter and more robust limbs." It approximates to Steno- 
pelmatus by the structure of its tarsi, in which the second and 
third joints are equal. 

Prof. Haldeman, who traced the distinction between Dai- 
kinia and Phalangopsis, proposed to consider the former as a 
mere sub-genus of the latter. But should the above charac- 
ter prove constant, they are sufficient to raise Daihinia to the 
rank of a genus ; thus simplifying much the nomenclature. 

Two species of this genus are known — the one herein 
described and figured, and D. robusta, Hald., an inhabitant of 
New Mexico. 

1. Daihinia brevipes, Hald* 

Zoology, PI. XV, figs. 9-13. 

Spec char — Dark brown, mottled with lighter shades; 
legs short and robust; tibiae shorter than the femora, and 
strongly spinous ; antennae of medium development. 

Syn. — Phalangopsis (Daihinia) brevipes, Hald. Proc. Amer. 
Assoc. Adv. Sc. II, 1850, 346. 



APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 247 

Description. — The fact that in this species the tibiae are 
shorter than the femora, contributes somewhat to impress 
upon it more strongly that character of the genus which con- 
sists in being provided with shorter limbs than in Phalangopsis. 
The surface of the body is generally smooth, but posteriorly, 
and particularly in the male, there are minute short spines, 
which give to that region a granulated appearance; these 
minute spines are especially crowded upon the margin of the 
segments or articulations. The femora are provided with 
spines above and below, stronger below, and more so in the 
male. The tibial spines are very much developed on the an- 
terior and posterior tibiae, much less on the medial ones; 
anteriorly they occupy the outer edge of the limbs, and an- 
swer fossorial purposes ; posteriorly they constitute two rows, 
directed horizontally backwards, inclining a little downwards, 
the inner row being the strongest. The anterior and poste- 
rior tarsi are trimerous ; the medial ones being tetramerous. 
The ovipositor is comparatively small; its length being less 
than the half of the length of the body, and provided beneath 
and towards the tip with from eight to ten small spines. 

The ground-color is chesnut-brown, mottled above with 
lighter shades. The antenna? and spines are blackish. 

Specimens were collected at the Camp No. 7, recorded as 
"yellowish-brown;" others on June 5th and 6th, said to be 
" yellowish-red." 

Plate XV, fig. 9, represents the male Daihinia brcvipes size 
of life. 

Fig. 10 is the female, also the size of life. 

Fig. 11, front view of the head of the female. 

Fig. 12, a tarsus from above. 

Fig. 13, a tarsus from below. 

II. ANABRUS, Hald. 

Gen. Char.— Body sub-cylindrical, thickest in the middle ; 
without wings ; antenna? almost as long as the body, and fili- 
form ; pronotum selliform, extending over the basal articula- 
tion of the abdomen, and concealing rudimentary elytra ; 
ovipositor elongated, nearly straight, sword-shaped ; tarsi 
broad, soles concave ; third articulation cordate. 

Syn. — Anabrus, Hald. in Stansb. Expl. Vail. G. Salt Lake, 
1852, App. C. 370. 



248 APPENDIX F.— ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

Obs. — -The general appearance of the genus Anabrus re- 
minds us strongly of Phalangopsis proper, from which it is dis- 
tinguished by its movable and selliform pronotum and the 
length and shape of the ovipositor. • The general proportions 
of the body and limbs are more elongated than in Phalangop- 
sis. The structure of the tarsi, which is not apparent upon a 
first glance, affords other differences not less important, be- 
tween Anabrus and Phalangopsis, when studied compara- 
tively. 

2. Anabrus haldemanii, Girard, 

Zoology, PI. XV, figs. 5-8. 

Spec. char. — Antennae long and filliform, reaching pos- 
teriorly the base of the ovipositor ; pronotum short, broad ; 
femora smooth. Yellowish ; feet and ovipositor reddish pur- 
ple. Posterior margin of pronotum black, with two parallel 
black bands on the posterior third of its length. 

Description.— The abdomen above exhibits ten segments 
or articulations ; the anterior or basal one being, as stated 
above, covered by the posterior prolongation of the pronotum. 
Beneath there are seven sub-quadrangular plates, situated 
opposite to the seven middle upper segments, The posterior 
segments enclose another piece bearing two spine-like, ab- 
dominal appendages — one on each side. The ovipositor is as 
long as the abdomen, and entirely smooth. The base of the 
antennae is situated above the eyes, and inserted upon an angu- 
lar movable piece. The joints composing these organs are 
very short, and provided with minute setae. The tibiae are 
provided with four rows of spines, two anterior and two pos- 
terior ; the internal posterior row being the stoutest. The 
posterior rows are more densely set with spines, whilst the 
latter are scattered and alternate with each other in the ante- 
rior rows. The first and cordate joint of the tarsi is the long- 
est ; the second is the shortest ; and from the middle of the 
third, a fourth slender and long joint arises, slightly convex 
above, and terminating in two spines or claws curved inwards 
and outwards. 

The ground-color above and below is yellowish ; the an- 
tennae, limbs, and ovipositor are of a reddish purple. The 
posterior margin of the pronotum is black. Two parallel 
black vittae, enclosing a narrow yellow one, are observed on 



APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

each side of the dorsal line, upon the posterior third of the 
pronotum. The posterior portion of the upper abdominal 
segments is occasionally of a deep-brown hue. 

This species differs from Anabrus simplex, Hald., by a pro- 
portionally much shorter pronotum. 

One specimen, caught June 27th, is recorded as " green 
and white." 

Plate XV, fig. 5, represents Anabrus haldemann in a profile 
view and of the size of life. 

Fig. 6 is a front view of the head. 

Fig. 7, a tarsus frorri, above. 

Fig. 8, a tarsus from below. 

III. BRACHYPEPLUS, Charp. 

Gen. char. — Body acrydoid ; elytra and wings rudimen- 
tary; antennas rather short; pronotum tricarinated ; surface 
between the carinas granulated. Second joint of tarsi very 
short ; first and third elongated ; last one terminating by two 
curved claws, between which is situated a subcircular fleshy 
disk. 

Syn. — Brachijpeplus, Charp. Orth. descr. et pict. Fasc. IX, 
1843, Tab. li. 

Obs. — This genus, established by Toussaint de Char pen- 
tier in his Orthoptera descripta et picta, was not characterized, 
owing, perhaps, to the fact that one species only was known 
and described by him under the name of B. virescens, said to 
inhabit " Mexico." It may easily be distinguished from the 
one we shall describe by its much shorter antennae and slen- 
derer tarsi ; also by its color, which is deep-green, with a few 
brown spots on the pronotum, and a double series of these 
along the upper part of the abdomen. 

3. Brachypealus magnus, Girard. 

Zoology, PL XV, fig. 1-4. 

Spec char. — Reddish brown ; elytra dotted with black ; 
antennas bluish brown ; femora and tibiae reddish ; tarsi pur- 
plish ; spines black towards tip ; femora sub fusiform ; a ca- 
rina along the upper and middle region of the abdomen. 



250 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

Description. — The pronotum is one-third of the length of 
the abdomen, overlapping posteriorly the anterior abdominal 
segment entirely and half of the second. The entire number 
of abdominal segments or articulations is eleven, carinated 
upon their medial line, and continuing the medial carina of 
the pronotum all along the middle region of the abdomen 
above. Antennas a little longer than the pronotum, and com- 
posed of about twenty short joints. The tibiae are shorter 
than the femora, and provided, the two anterior pairs inter- 
nally, and the posterior pair externally, with two rows of 
spines, the inner row the strongest. The femora are sub- 
fusiform ; the posterior ones a little broader than thick, but 
never as much compressed as in B. virescens, in which these 
organs present sharp edges. The tarsi are all tetramerous : 
the first article is the stoutest and the longest, the second being 
quite short ; the third is more slender, and the fourth the 
smallest, terminating into two carved spines or claws, be- 
tween which is a subcircular fleshy disk. The rudimentary 
elytra are subovoidal, not extending backwards to the poste- 
rior margin of the third abdominal segment. 

The ground-color, as preserved upon specimens in alco- 
hol, is yellowish brown ; black dots and spots are scattered 
over the rudimentary elytra. The antennas are bluish brown; 
the femora and tibiae reddish, and the tarsi purplish, whilst the 
spines are black. 

This species differs from B. virescens by its proportionally 
longer antennae, shorter pronotum, and less compressed fem- 
ora. • The general shape of the body is in every respect pro- 
portionally longer than in the latter species. 

Two specimens were collected on the 7th of July — one 
*' green," the other " reddish brown." 

Plate XV, fig. 1, represents Brachypeplus magnus in natural 
size. 

Fig. 2, front view of the head. 

Fig. 3, a tarsus from above. 

Fig. 4, same from below. 

We refer to Brachypeplus virescens two specimens ; one col- 
lected on the 12th of June, and which was " green above, 
white beneath, with yellow and black stripes on the back ; JJ 
another specimen, a little smaller, caught June 21st, was 
" green and brown," 



APPENDIX F.— ARACHNIDIANS. 251 



ARACHNIDIAN8. 

BY CHARLES GIRARD, 

i. araneidj:, 
1. Mygale hentzii, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVI, 1-3. 

Spec. char. — Blackish brown ; densely studded with hairs, 
Cephalothorax subcircular, with a median and transversely 
elliptical infundibulum upon its posterior half, whence shallow 
grooves radiate towards the periphery. Abdomen ovoido 
Palpi composed of five joints besides the maxilla?, a hook in 
the male. Legs six-jointed. 

Description. — -This species is one of the largest of the 
genus hitherto found within the limits of the United States. 
The specimen figured, however, is much below the usual size. 
The cephalothorax is subcircular in shape, a little broader in 
the male than in the female. The eyes are disposed as in 
fig. 3, on a little eminence near the anterior margin, and upon 
the midial line. On the posterior half of the same region, on 
a line with the eyes, is a traverse infundibulum, sometimes 
subcrescentic, convex posteriorly. Shallow and sometimes 
irregular grooves radiate from that centre towards the margin 
of the cephalothorax The abdomen is ovoid ; considerably 
larger in the female than in the male. The labrum is quite 
small. The chelicerae are robust, regularly arched, termina- 
ted by a rather slender hook, similarly curved, and movable 
upon the cheliceras. The palpi are six-jointed ; the basal joint, 
functioning as maxilla, is robust, and not otherwise distin- 
guished from the following, except that it is provided along 
its inner margin with a brush-like series of hairs. The second 
joint is very short"; the third is the longest ; the fourth is a 
little larger than the second ; the fifth a little shorter than the 
third ; the fourth shorter than the fifth ; the sixth is the size of 
the second, but differently shaped, being rounded at its ex- 



252 APPENDIX F.— ARACHNIDIANS. 

tremity, at the inferior surface of which exists a hook, very 
stout at the base, tapering into an acute point, curved down- 
wards and outwards. In the female the sixth joint of the 
palpi is as long and of the same shape as the fifth, and de- 
prived of the hook. The fourth pair of legs is the longest ; the 
first pair comes next ; the second pair is the smallest. They 
are all six jointed, the first joint short and robust. The second 
joint is the longest ; the third the smallest ; the fifth is, after 
the second, the next in length ; then the fourth, and finally the 
sixth. The external pair of fusi, or spinning apparatus, is 
slender, and as usual, three-jointed , the internal pair is very 
small, and not conspicuous. The whole surface of the body 
and legs, above and below, is densely covered with fine setose 
hairs. The color is uniform blackish brown. 

The My gale hentzii is the large black spider known in the 
Southwest as the tarantula, where its bite is greatly dreaded. 

A female specimen was collected on the 17th of May, on an 
open, barren prairie between Camps 2 and 3. Other speci- 
mens of both sexes were taken^pn the 28th of June, near the 
head of south fork of Red river. 

Plate XVI, fig. 1, represents Mygale hentzii seen from above. 
Fig. 2 is an underview to exhibit the labrum (1,) the maxillae 
(m,) the chelicerae (c,) and the palpi (p,) also to show the fusi 
(f.) Fig. 3 represents the disposition of the ocelli. 

2. Lycos a pilosa, Girard. 

Zoology, PL XVI, figs. 4 and 5. 

Spec, char.— Hairs of a yellowish brown color, covering 
the upper parts. Beneath black ; cephalothorax subpyriform ; 
abdomen ovoid. Palpi composed of five joints besides the 
maxillse ; terminal joint provided beneath with two small 
spines. Legs very long and slender ; all six-jointed. 

Description. — Of all the American Lycosa hitherto des- 
cribed the present species is the one in which the legs are the 
longest and the most slender. The size of the celphalothorax 
and abdomen is proportionally smaller, however, than in L. 
fatifera, Hentz. 

The cephalothorax is longer than broad, elevated on its 

•middle region, and anteriorly very prominent ; subpyriform in 

its general outline : the narrowest part directed forwards. 

Its surface, when freed from its fur, exhibits shallow grooves 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDXANS. 253 

radiating from the centre towards the periphery, pretty much 
in the same manner as in the My gale just described, although 
much less conspicious. There is no central infundibulum, 
which is replaced here by a minute longitudinal furrow about 
a tenth of an inch in length. The abdomen is ovoid, and as 
usual, larger in the female than in the male. 

The cheliceras are stout, with a very slight downwards in- 
flexion, provided with small protuberances upon the inner 
margin of its anterior extremity, and terminated by a slender 
hook curved inwardly. The labrum is comparatively small, 
whilst the maxillae are stout. The palpi are slender, and 
composed of five joints. The first joint is very small, incon- 
spicuous ; the second is the longest and the most slender of 
all ; the third is somewhat larger than the first, the fourth lar- 
ger than the third, and the fifth larger than the fourth, which 
is swollen and sub-concave beneath, provided with two min- 
ute hooks inserted upon two tubercles. In the female the 
palpi are slenderer than in the male, and the last joint is simple 
and longer than the third. If he legs are l° n g a °d slender, 
composed of six joints : the nind pair is the longest; the 
first pair is the next in length ; the third pair is the shortest. 
The third joint is the smallest in the four pairs ; the first joint 
is the next in length, and the stoutest ; the second pair is the 
longest in the three anterior pair ; the fifth comes next, then 
the fourth and sixth. In the posterior pair the fifth joint is 
the longest ; then the second ; then the fourth and sixth. The 
fusi, four in number, are short, intimately grouped, and com- 
posed of a single joint. The whole surface of the body and 
legs, above and below, is densely covered with short hairs. 

The color above is uniform grayish brown. The abdomen, 
cephalothorax, and first joint of legs beneath, are deep black. 
The second, third, and fourth joints are of the color of the up- 
per parts upon their middle, and black near their articulations. 
The fifth and sixth joints are almost entirely black. The ex- 
tremity of the cheliceras and palpi are black beneath. When 
the hairy covering is removed, the color is a uniform chestnut- 
brown. 

The color may present some variations ; thus in the notes 
of Captain Marcy one is described as having " the back 
brown, belly dirty white, head and legs red." 

One specimen preserved in alcohol exhibits a reddish band 
down the middle of the cephalothorax, and two black vittae, 
one on each side of the abdomen. The cephalothorax neahbte 



254 APPENDIX F. — -ARACHNIDIANS* 

is reddish ; and on the abdomen there are two elliptical light, 
spots. 

Specimens were collected the 16th of May on the open 
prairie, between camps 1 and 2 ; and on the 19th of June, on 
Canadian river, Arkansas. 

Plate XVI, fig. 4, represents the trophi, showing the labrum 
(I,) the maxillae (m,) the palpi (p,) and chelicerae (c.) Fig 5 
exhibits the disposition of the ocelli. 

II. TARANTULID^E. 
Thelyphonus excubitor, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVII, fig. 1-4. 

Spec. char. — Blackish brown above, deep chestnut be- 
neath ; upper surface of body and legs minutely granular ; 
beneath smooth, with scattered minute imprinted dots. First 
and second articles of the palpkfcery granular, remaining ones 
with a few granules and numerous imprinted dots. Caudal 
appendage very much developed, and composed of about fifty 
joints. 

Description. — There is a very great resemblance between 
this species and T. giganteus.* The only striking difference 
which exists between them is to be found in the structure of 
the palpi and in the length of the caudal appendage. 

The cephalothorax is elongated, narrowest anteriorly, where 
it assumes almost a triangular shape. Its posterior margin is 
subtruncated, slightly concave in the middle. The central 
portion of the anterior third of the cephalothorax presents a 
perfectly plane surface, with a medial furrow, as it were, 
whilst posteriorly it is depressed, and sloping towards the 
margins, the surface showing shallow depressions, one upon 
the middle line, and more regular than the lateral one. Near 
the anterior extremity, and in a subcircular depression on each 
side of the medial, smooth, and rounded elevation, are found 
the ocelli, circular, large and black. In advance of these 
ocelli, the rostrum is almost abruptly truncated, as seen in the 
centre of fig. 3. From the anterior ocelli to the lateral ones 
extends a linear series of granules, terminating upon the tuber- 

* See Guerin's Magazin de Zoologie, 1835, Class VIII, for an illustrated mo- 
nograph of the genus Thelyphonus by H. Lucas. 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 255 

culous elevations, upon which are seen three yellowish ocelli 
grouped, as exhibited in fig. 2. 

The chelicerse are robust, but very slightly bent, composed 
of one large joint and a conical, curved, and acute spine, to 
the inner side of which are attached brushes of quite elongated 
and reddish setae. Palpi long and robust, in the shape of arms, 
and composed of six joints. The first joint is seen only from 
below (fig. 4, a,) and exhibits a subtriangular and flat surface, 
terminated anteriorly by a conical point, The second joint is 
smaller than the first, scarcely to be seen viewed from below, 
but developed upon its upper surface into a flattened and 
irregular disk, provided upon its anterior margin with five 
conical spines, varying in size : seen in front, (fig. 3, b,) it is 
elevated almost vertically from the horizontal position of the 
first. The third joint is the longest of all, slightly curved, and 
provided inwardly with two minute spines — one above, the 
other below. The fourth joint is somewhat shorter than the 
third, but is much longer than broad, subcylindrical, slightly 
bent, and provided at its inner, anterior, and upper edge with 
a prominent, conical, and straight spine. The fifth joint is of 
the length of the fourth, but slenderer, and provided anteriorly 
with a stout and shorter spine. Finally, the sixth joint is a 
subcorneal and spiny processus, moving against the spine of 
the fifth joint, constituting a forceps, and used as such to seize 
prey. The thoracic appendages (feet) are long and slender, 
especially the anterior and posterior pairs. The anterior pair 
may be readily distinguished from the three others, in not 
being provided with hooks upon their extremity. Its function 
is rather that of a pair of palpi than that of ambulatoiy organs. 
The first and second joints are short and stout ; the third, 
fourth, and fifth long and slender; the fourth and fifth almost 
equal in length, and longer than the third. Eight small joints, 
together equal in length to the third, terminate these appen- 
dages. The three others are constructed upon the same plan, 
all having nine joints and terminal hooks, generally two in 
number. The first, second, and third joints are similar to 
those of the anterior pair; the third, however, is the longest; 
the fourth is but a little longer though slenderer than the se- 
cond, and slightly curved; the fifth is much slenderer and a 
little shorter than the third. Next come four small joints, to- 
gether smaller in length than the fifth, and provided upon their 
anterior margin with minute spines. The second of these 
four,* or the seventh in the series, is the longest of the four ; 
the third is the smallest ; the first and fourth are equal in 



256 APPENDIX F. ARACHNID1ANS. 

length, the latter much slenderer. Two hook-like and slen- 
der spines terminate these organs 

The abdomen is longer than the cephalothorax, oval in 
shape, though depressed, and composed of eight very distinct 
segments and a half, the anterior one. The stigmatiform 
bodies are quite conspicuous above (seven pairs) and below, 
(four pairs.) The anterior half segment is not seen from 
below. The seventh segment exhibits laterally a second pair 
of stigmatiform bodies, less conspicuous, however, than the 
others. The posterior segment has also faint traces of an 
analogous pair. The two first caudal rings are very narrow ; 
the third is as large as the two others together. The filiform 
appendage is very long, and composed of about fifty joints. 

The upper surface of the cephalothorax and abdomen is 
covered with minute granules extending over the palpi, being 
particularly dense on the three first articles, and over the 
three first joints of the thoracic appendages also. Minute 
impunctures are seen upon the remaining articles and joints, 
and also scattered upon the inferior surface of the appendages 
and body. Minute setae are scattered over the appendages 
of the cephalothorax and abdomen, more densely towards 
their extremities. 

The color is uniform blackish brown above, and deep chest- 
nut beneath. 

One specimen of this animal was collected. 

Plate XVII, fig. 1, represents, seen from above, Thelypho- 
nus excubitor the size of life. 

Fig. 2 gives the position, number, and relative size of the 
ocelli. 

Fig. 3 is a front view, exhibiting in the centre the chelicerae 
and the three first articles (a, b, c) of the palpi. 

Fig. 4 represents the anterior portion of the cephalothorax 
from below : a, first article, b, second article, and c, third 
article of the palpi ; and d, anterior pair of feet. 

HI. SCORPIONIDiE. 

Although the collections made in the valley of Red river 
contained no specimen of this group of arachnides, we have 
brought them here to notice, satisfied as we are that they exist 
in that locality. 

Scorpions are found in the southern Atlantic States, all 
along the Gulf of Mexico, through Texas and New Mexico to 
California, and through Louisiana to Arkansas. 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 257 

1. Scorpio (Telegonus) boreus, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVII, figs. 5-7. 

Spec. char. — Body greenish yellow ; thoracic and caudal 
appendages yellowish. Lateral ocelli in close contiguity ; 
posterior one the smallest. Median ocelli situated on the 
sides of an elongated and black elevation. Chelicerse termi- 
nated by a serrated claw. Palpi robust, shorter than the 
body. Caudal appendage as long as the body, the spine ex- 
cepted. Abdominal comb with eighteen lamina?. 

Description. — The general form of the body is fusiform, 
anteriorly and posteriorly tapering. The cephalothorax proper 
is subquadrilateral, longer than broad, narrower anteriorly 
than posteriorly ; both of these extremities linear ; lateral 
margin somewhat undulated. Its surface is carved with a 
few undulating grooves, giving to the rest an undulated ap- 
pearance; and over the whole, minute granules. The median 
ocelli are black, situated a little in advance of the middle of 
the length of the thorax, and placed on the sides of an elon- 
gated, little, and black eminence, divided longitudinally by a 
groove. The lateral ocelli are set close together, and situated 
near the anterior margin of the cephalothorax ; the posterior 
one is much the smallest : they are represented with their 
relative proportions in fig. 7. The chelicerse are stout, two- 
jointed, the second being the largest, and is terminated by a 
minutely serrated claw ; the palpi are five-jointed ; the first 
joint is short and stout, and fulfils the function of jaws without 
denticulation. The second is the smallest. The third and 
fourth are more elongated ; the third a little longer than the 
fourth. They are angular, the angles being margined with 
dense tows of minute granules. The fifth joint or hand 
(carpus) is stout and swollen, exhibiting eight undulating ribs, 
(four above and four below,) upon which is a row of minute 
granules. Two rows above and below are seen extending 
along the spiny immovable processus of the hand, constituting, 
with a movable spine, a slender chela or claw, slightly curved 
inwards. Scattered setse may be seen on the whole length of 
the palpi, and also on the thoracic appendages, (feet.) " The 
latter are slender; the fourth pair is the longest; the first pair 
the smallest, the second and third pairs being of intermediate 
proportions ; the second longer than the first, and the third 
longer than the second. They are all flattened, seven-jointed, 
and terminated by minute hooks. The third joint is in every 
17 



258 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 

one the longest and most slender; the fifth, sixth, and seventh 
are small, the seventh being the smallest of all. There are 
generally three terminal hooks ; occasionally minute spines 
may be seen near the articulation of the sixth and seventh 
joints. The first joint is the stoutest, and in the first pair of 
these appendages it has something to do with mastication, 
functioning perhaps as a lower lip. The abdominal combs 
are slender and elongated, and composed of a transverse tri- 
articulated piece, and of eighteen little laminas attached to it. 
The dorso-abdominal shields, seven in number, increase in 
size from forwards backwards, the anterior one being the 
narrowest of all. Their surface exhibits minute granules not 
very conspicuous. There are only five ventral shields, nearly 
equal in size ; the posterior one somewhat different in shape, 
and not provided with stigmata. The caudal appendage 
(tail) is as long as the body, and composed of five joints and 
a poison bag. The two first joints are the smallest, the fifth 
being the longest ; the poison bag is swollen up and provided 
with a slightly curved and acute hollow spine. The upper 
part of each joint is concave or grooved, whilst the inferior 
part is convex. They are carinated, and rows of conspicuous 
granules are observed along the carinae. 

The color- of the body above is uniform greenish yellow ; 
the thoracic appendages (feet) are yellowish, whilst the palpi 
and caudal appendage (tail) reflect a reddish shade upon the 
yellow ground. 

The specimen figured was collected in the valley of the 
Great Salt Lake of Utah, by Captain Howard Stansbury. 

A much smaller specimen was brought from Eagle Pass, 
Texas, by Mr. Arthur Schott, of the United States and Mex- 
ican boundary. 

Plate XVI, fig. 5, represents, size of life, S. ( Telegonus) 
horeus seen from above. 

Fig. 6 is a view from beneath, to show the abdominal 
combs, first abdominal segment, and origin of fourth and third 
pairs of feet. 

Fig. 7 represents the distribution of the ocelli. 

2. Scorpio (Atreus) californicus, Girard. 

General form of body and appendages slender when com- 
pared to the preceding species. The tail is almost twice the 
length of the body ; there is not the same disproportion of 
length between the first and second joints and the remaining 



APPENDIX F. — -ARACHNIDIANS. 259 

ones. The carinae and rows of granules are much less con- 
spicuous. The cephalothorax and dorso-abdominal shields 
exhibit carinae and rows of granules not only on the palpi, but 
likewise on the feet. Rows of granules may be seen along 
the angular projections or carinas. The chelae are much slen- 
derer, the hand (carpus) and poison bag much smaller. An 
exceedingly minute spine may be observed on the poison bag 
under the sting. The lateral ocelli are situated more anteriorly, 
more apart from each other, and equal amongst themselves. 
The abdominal combs are composed of twenty laminae. 

Color light brown ; palpi and tail deeper ; upper part of 
abdomen blackish, with a median light vitta. 

One specimen was collected in California and presented by 
Dr. Stone to the Smithsonian Institution. 

3. Scorpio (Atreus) sayi, Girard. 

SYN.—Butkus vittatus, Say, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. II, 
1821, 61. 

_ Upon a close examination of several specimens of this spe- 
cies obtained from western Florida, we satisfied ourselves 
that it belongs to the subgenus Atreus instead of Buthics, in 
which k was placed by Thomas Say. It so happens that 
the specific name of vittatus has since been given by Guerin 
to another South American species of scorpions ; and if we 
propose here to replace Say's specific name, against the 
received law of priority, we would remark that when full 
grown, the vittae entirely disappear, and the color becomes 
uniform deep reddish brown, the legs and under surface being- 
lighter. In this species the tail is once and a half the length 
of the body. The palpi, are proportionally small, and in the 
young exiguous. The chelae are slender, slightly curved, 
with an undulation at their base, but without marked denticu- 
lations. _ The upper surface is finely granular. There are 
from thirty to thirty-two laminae to the abdominal combs. 
"Fuscous, with three fulvous vittae, sides black," applies 
strictly to the immature state. 

Specimens of this species were sent from Pensacola, Flor- 
ida, to the Smithsonian Institution, by Dr. Jeffrey, U. S. N., 
and Dr. J. F. Hammond, U. S. A. 

A species very closely allied, if not identical wtih Scorpio 
(Atreus) sayi, is not uncommon in Texas, where several spe- 
cimens were collected by Lieut. D. N. Couch, U. S. A. 



260 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 

IV. PSEUDOSCORPIONIM. 

Observations upon Galeodes subulata op Thomas Say. 

Two species of this genus are described by the same 
author in Major Long's Expedition;* one under the name of 
Galeodes pallvpes, the other under that of G. subulata, the only 
difference between them consisting in the structure of the 
chelicerse, which in G. pallipes are terminated by arcuated 
claws, armed within with many robust teeth, whilst in G. subu- 
lata the upper claw is nearly rectilinear, and the lower one 
alone possessed with two robust teeth. 

Having but one individual of this genus at our command, 
we are not prepared to decide upon the question of the valid- 
ity of both species. The specimen before us answers to 
Say's characters of G. subulata; and being perfectly satisfied 
that it belongs to the latter species, we propose to describe it 
a little more at length than w T as done by its discoverer. 

The entire length, from the tip of the chelicerae to the end 
of the abdomen, is one inch and a quarter, the abdomen itself 
forming about one-half of that length. The cephalothorax is 
composed of three distinct segments ; the anterior one much 
the largest, giving points of attachment to the parts of the 
mouth, to the palpi, and the two anterior pairs of legs ; to the 
second thoracic segment is attached the third pair of legs, 
and to the third segment the fourth pair. The anterior seg- 
ment of cephalothorax, seen from above, is subrhomboidal 
and smooth. At its anterior margin are situated the two 
ocelli, separated from each other by a deep groove. The 
chelicerae are very stout, and composed of one single joint 
densely covered with setose hairs, and terminated each by 
two spines, one above (finger of some authors,) rigid, and 
another below (the thumb,) moving vertically against the 
upper. The latter is compressed, acute, almost rectilinear, 
and smooth ; the inferior one is subcorneal, curved upwards, 
acute towards the point, and provided at its base inwardly 
with two spiny small processes. The palpi are proportion- 
ally robust, stouter and longer than the three anterior pairs of 
legs ; somewhat shorter than the fourth pair, but of a stouter 



* Account of an expedition from Pittsburg to the Rocky Mountains, performed 
in trie years 1819 and '20. Vol. II, 1823, p. 3. 



APPENDIX F. AEACHNIDIANS. 261 

appearance, as all the joints, four in number (the maxillas ex- 
cepted) preserve the same diameter. They are covered on 
their whole length with hairs similar to those on the chelicerae. 
The maxillas are subtriangular, provided only with brushes of 
hairs. The next joint (the joint of the palpi) is very small 
and triangular ; the second is the longest ; the third is the 
next in length ; then the fourth, the tip of which exhibits a 
minute smooth tuberculifbrm knob. The first pair of legs is 
the most slender of the thoracic appendages, and about the 
length of the third pair ; the basal joint is quite short ; the 
second is the shortest of all ; the third is the longest ; the 
fourth, fifth, and sixth smaller in the order enumerated. The 
last joint terminates like the palpi, bluntly. This anterior 
pair of legs is called by some second pair of paljn, upon the 
ground that their structure is most alike. The three remain- 
ing pairs of thoracic appendages are seven-jointed, thus com- 
posed of one joint more than in the first pair and palpi, and 
furthermore terminated by two minute curved claws. The 
first, second, and third joints are short, stoutish, and subequal ; 
the remaining are longer and slenderer, the fourth beino- the 
longest, and the other diminishing gradually. They are cov- 
ered upon their whole length with hairs similar to those which 
cover the palpi, but perhaps less densely so. The abdomen 
is subovoid, being a Utile depressed ; it is densely hairy above 
and below, and composed, as usual, of nine segments or 
annuli . 

Collected on June the 10th. 



262 



APPENDIX P.— MYRIAPODS. 



MYRIAPODS. 

BY CHARLES GIRARD. 



1. Scolopendra heros, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVIII. 

Spec. char. — Twenty-one pairs of grallatory appendages, 
composed of five segments of articulations, and a conical ter- 
minal spine, more or less curved. Back bicarinated; beneath, 
flat and grooved. Antennas composed of twenty-five joints ; 
color uniform dark-reddish brown : lighter beneath. 

Description. — The general form of the body is depressed, 
subconcave above, flat beneath. It is composed of twenty- 
one annuli, segments or rings, each of which bears one pair 
of locomotory appendages, (feet.) The middle region of the 
back presents a slight double carina and last segment. The 
intermediate area is rather flattened, whilst each running 
parallel the whole length of the body, very faint on the first 
side, is gently sloping towards the exterior margin. At the 
inferior surface, two longitudinal furrows or grooves may be 
seen extending the whole length of the body, and dividing the 
abdominal disk into three almost equal parts. The stigmata 
are transversely elongated, and situated immediately beneath 
the lateral margin of the dorsal shields of each segment. The 
insertion of the locomotory appendages takes place imme- 
diately above the lateral margin of the abdominal shields of 
each segment. The locomotory appendages are as numerous 
as the segments of the body — twenty-one pairs constructed 
alike ; that is to say, composed of five joints and a curved 
terminal spine. A minute spine may occasionally be seen at 
the anterior margin of the fourth and fifth joints. The third 
and fourth joints are longer than the first and second ; the 
fifth is always the smallest : these organs are tapering rapidly 
towards their extremity. In the caudal pair, the first and 



APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 263 

second articles or joints are longer than the third and fourth ; 
the first one is moreover, provided with a spiny process along 
its inner margin. Its general shape and directing distinguishes 
it, likewise, from all the other pairs. 

The second segment is quite short, the shortest of all, and 
contrasts strangely with the others, which preserve regular 
proportions, gradually diminishing from the middle of the 
length towards both extremities, with but few exceptions. 

The first segment or ring is one of these, being the shortest 
after the second ; its anterior margin is subcrescentic, the 
concavity of which receives the cephalic shield or disk (head.) 
Besides the anterior pair of locomotory appendages, it gives a 
point of attachment to a pair of robust and two-jointed forceps, 
functioning as a pair of jaws for seizing and holding the prey. 
The central piece" is large and subtriangular, the anterior 
margin of which is denticulated, (the second lip of some 
authors. That second or external lip (labrum) is formed by 
the union of two pieces, which are separate in the young, 
where they constitute a third joint to the forceps jaws, the 
second lip then being also separate, and existing as a limina 
already denticulated anteriorly. The next joint is short and 
stout ; fhe second is a conical and tapering spine, curved in- 
wardly and perforated, as it is well known, for the passage 
•of a venomous fluid, not otherwise dangerous. 

The cephalic disk itself, seen from above, is subcircular in 
shape, projecting slightly between the antennas, and showing 
upon its surface traces of the dorsal carinas alluded to above. 
To its inferior surface we find attached two pairs of mandibles 
and one pair of palpi. In proceeding from outwards inwards, 
we will find immediately behind the forceps-jaws the palpi, 
(little feet, sometimes called,) composed of four flattened joints 
and a minute, curved, and terminal hooks. They are united 
at their base by the means of two additional central pieces. 
The second joint is the longest, and slightly bent. The exterior 
pair of mandibles, the one next to the palpi, is composed of 
four joints, the first being almost as long as the three remain- 
ing ones ; the fourth is rounded, presenting an inner concave 
surface with a sharp terminal margin. They are united upon 
their middle by a lanceolated ligula. The inner pair of man- 
dibles is composed of two pieces ; the first irregularly shaped, 
the second subcircular concave, subcircular and margined 
anteriorly by small spines, four or five in number, constituting 
a denticulated margin. 

In the anterior margin of the cephalic disk are inserted the 



264 APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 

| 

antennae composed of twenty-five joints gradually dimin- 
ishing in thickness, and increasing in length towards the 
extremity, which is filiform. Exteriorly to the antennae, and 
close to the margin of the disk, are situated the ocelli, four on 
each side, as usual in the genus, and disposed as represen- 
ted in figure 5. 

The inferior surface of the last ring differs from the others 
in having a much smaller shield, and in being provided on 
each side with a stout, subcorneal spine, directed backwards. 

An immature specimen, one-third of the length of the one 
figured, has the same number of segments or annuli, the same 
number of feet, and the same general structure. 

One individual of this species was collected on the 15th of 
June, at Sweet-water creek ; others were found in July, be- 
tween the south fork of Red river and Otter creek. 

Plate XVIII, fig. 1, represents Scolopendra heros size of life, 
seen from above. 

Fig. 2, the head from below. 

Fig. 3, posterior extremity from below. 

Fig. 4, a medial segment to show the attachment of feet. 

Fig. 5, disposition of ocelli on left side. 



2. Julus grnatus, Girard. 

Spec. char. — Ground-color bluish black j segments nar- 
rowly margined posteriorly with reddish; anterior margin of 
segments rather blue, whilst the middle is rather black, thus 
giving the appearance of three rings of color. The anterior 
portion, which is covered by the articulation, is fulvous. Feet 
deep chestnut-brown. Antennae rufous at base, blackish at 
tip. Stigmata not conspicuous ; marked by a series of small, 
obsolete blackish spots. 

Remarks. — -This species is allied to Julus marginatm of 
Say, but its body is proportionally much stouter. The ocelli 
are disposed upon a subtriangular space quite different in 
shape. The antennae themselves are slenderer in propor- 
tions. The labrum (upper lip) is also less emarginated than 
in Julus marginatus, and the marginal punctures much less 
conspicuous. 

One specimen was collected on the 27th of June. 



APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 265 

3. Julus atratus, Girard. 

Spec. char. — Body, feet, and antennae uniform deep black- 
ish brown ; antennae and feet occasionally reddish, as also the 
labrum and anterior margin of first segment. Posterior third 
of each segment of a shining black. Stigmata and lateral 
striae beneath quite conspicuous. 

Remarks. — Resembles more Julus ovnatus than Julus mar- 
ginatus in the general proportions of the body, but in the 
structure of the antennae and labrum comes nearer to Julus 
marginatum. 

Specimens of this species were collected at Prairie Mer 
Rouge, Louisiana, by James Fairiej esq., and sent to the 
Smithsonian Institution. 



APPENDIX G. 



BOTANY. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED DURING THE EX- 
PEDITION : BY DR. JOHN TORREY. 



No. 96, St. Mark's Place, New York, 

August 10, 1853. 

Dear Sir : I have examined the collection of plants that 
you brought from the headwaters of the Red river, towards 
the Rocky mountains. The flora of this region greatly resem- 
bles that of the upper portion of the Canadian. It is remark- 
able that there occur among your plants several species that 
were first discovered by Dr. James, in Long's Expedition, 
and have not been found since until now. Your collection is 
an interesting addition to the geography of North American 
plants, and serves to mark more clearly the range of many 
western species. For particular remarks on the rarer plants, 
and descriptions of the new species, I refer you to the accom- 
panying list. 

At your request I have had some of the rarer plants drawn 
and engraved, to illustrate your report to Congress. 

I am, dear sir, 

Yours truly, 

JOHN TORREY. 

Captain R. B. Marcy. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 



RANUCULACEvE. 



267 



Clematis Pitcheri, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 10. Witchita Mountains; fl. 
and fir. July 17. 

Anemone Caroliniana, Walt. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 12. Sources of the 
Trinity River ; May 3. 

Delphinium azureum, Michx. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 32. Main Fork of 
the Red River ; fl. May 8— June 16. 



PAPAVERACE^E. 

Argemone Mexicana, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 61. C«mmon on the 
upper waters of the Red River ; May — June 16. 



CRUCIFER.E. 

Vesicaria angustifolia, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 101 ; Gray, PL 
Lindh. 2, p. 145. Sources of the Trinity River ; fl. and fr. May 3. 

V. stenophylla, Gray, PL Lindh. 2, p. 149 ; and PL Wright. 1, p. 10, and 
2, p. 13. North Fork of the Red River ; fr. June 14. 

Pithyrjea Wislizeni, Engelm., in Wisliz. inMex., p. 95; Gray, PL Wright. 
1, p. 10, and 2, p. 14. Abundant on the headwaters of the Red River ; June 
23— July 14. 

The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy vary considerably in 
the leaves, which are often nearly entire. The flowers also vary in size ; the 
petals being sometimes nearly one-third of an inch in length. The silicles are 
larger than in specimens collected in New Mexico by Mr. Wright and Dr. Ed- 
wards. They are by no means always deeply emarginate at the base, and some- 
times they are slightly notched at the summit. 

Streptanthus hyacinthoides, Hook., in Bot. Mag., t. 3516 ; Torr. and 
Gr., Fl. 1, p. 78 ; Gray, Gen. 111., t. 61. Witchita Mountains to the boun- 
dary of the Choctaw Nation ; fl. May 31 — June 4. 



CAPPARIDACE.E. 

Polanisia graveolens, R,af. ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 123, and SuppL, p. 
669. Witchita Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 16. The pods are on a short stipe, 
and the seeds are more or less rough. 



268 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 



CARYOPHYLL ACE JE . 

Silene Antirrhina, Linn., Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 191. On the Main 
Fork of the Red River ; fl. May 8. 

Paronychia Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 170 ; Gray, Pi. Fendl., p. 14. 
Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22. 



PORTULACACE^. 

Talinum teretifolium, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 365 ; Gray, Gen. 111., t. 98. Mid- 
dle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22, fr. July 5. 



MALVACE^. 

Malvastrum coccineum, Gray, Gen. 111., t. 121 ; PI. Fendl., p. 24. Malva 
coccinea, Nutt. Sida coccinea, DC. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 235. North Fork 
of Red River, &c. 

Callirrhce involucrata, Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 15, and Gen. 111., t. 117. 
Malva involucrata, Torr. and Gr., FL, p. 226. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. 

May 22. 

C digitata, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 181 ; Gray, 1, c. Fort Belk- 
nap. 



LINACE.E. 

Linum Berlandieri, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3480 ; Entrelm. in Gray, PI. 
Wright. 2, p. 25. Cache creek, and Cross-timbers of the Red River ; May. 

L. Boottii, Plauch., in Lond. Jour. Bot 7, p. 475 ; Engelm., 1. c. Witchita 
Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 17. 



OXALIDACELE. 

Oxalis violacea, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 211. Headwaters of the 
Trinity River ; April 25. 

O. stricta, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. c. With the preceding. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 269 



GERANIACE^E. 



Geranium Carolinianum, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl, ], p. 207. Headwaters 
of the Trinity, and on Cache creek ; April — May. 



ZANTHOXYLACE.E. 

- Ptelea trifoliata, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 215 ; /3 mollis. Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 1, Suppl., p. 680. Common on the headwaters of the Red River; 
fr. June 16. 

ANACARDIACEiE. 

Rhus trilobata, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 218; Gray PL Fendl., 
p. 28. On the Middle and North Forks of the Red river; in fruit June 1-16. 

R. Toxicodendron, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., 1. c. With the preceding in 
fruit only. 

VITACEjE. 

Vitis rupertris, Scheele, in Linnsca, 21, p. 591 ; Gray, PI. Lindh., 2, p. 
165. Witchita Mountains ; abundant. The fruit was immature, but had at- 
tained nearly its full size in the middle of July. They are said to be ripe in 
August, when they are about the size of large peas, of a deep purple color, and 
agreeable to the taste. This species much resembles the summer grape of the 
Atlantic States. 

SAPINDACEiE. 

Sapindus marginatus, Willd. ; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 1, 255 ; Gray, Gen. 
111., 2, t. 180. Main Fork of Red River. 

This is generally known in Texas and Arkansas by the name of Wild China. 
It is a tree, and attains the height of 20 feet, with a trunk 10 inches in dia- 
meter. The wood is of a yellow color. 

POLYGALACE.E. 

Polygala alba, Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 87 ; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, p. 38. P. Bey- 
richii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 670. On Suydam Creek, North Fork of Red 
River ; fl. June 6. 



270 APPENDIX G-— BOTANY. 



P. incarnata, Linn ; Torr. and Gr. 1, p. 129. Tributaries of the Washita 
River ; fl. and fr. July 23. This species has not hitherto been found so far 

west. 



KRAMERIACE.E. 

Krameria lanceolata, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2 p. 168 ; Gray, Gen. 
III., 2, t. 185. Headwaters of the Trinity, and on the Middle Fork of the Red 
River ; fl. May 4-22. 



LEGUMINOSiE. 

Vicia micrantha, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 271. Cache Creek and 
Middle Fork of Red River ; 11. and fr. May 16-22. 

Rhynchosia TOMENTOSA,"var. volubilis, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 285. Tribu- 
taries of the Washita River ; fl. July 26. 

Tephrosia Virginiana, Pers. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 295. Witchita 
Mountains and upper waters of Red River ; fl. June 4, fr. July 23. 

Glyctrrhiza'lepidota, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 106 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 298. 
Main and North Forks of the Red River ; fl. June 6, fr. June 26. 

Indigofera leptosefala, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 298. With the 
preceding ; fl. May 26-June 6. 

Psoralea esculenta, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475, t. 22. Mouth of Cache Creek and 

Witchita Mountains ; May. 

P. Argophtlla, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475 ; Hook. Fl. Bor.— Am. 2, p. 136, t. 53. 
North and Middle Forks of Red River ; fl. May 26-31. 

P. floribunda, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl 1, p. 300. Sources of the Red 
River ; fl. June 2-9. 

Petalostemon violaceum, Michx., Fl. 2, p. 50, t. 37, f. 2 ; Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 1, p. 310. With the preceding ; June 2-7. 

Petalostemon gracile, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 7, p. 92; Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 1, p. .309. Cache Creek ; May 18. 

P. multiflorum, Nutt., 1. c. ; Torr. and Gr., 1. c. On the Witchita Mount- 
ains ; fl. and fr. July 15. 



APPENDIX a. BOTANY. 271 

Petalostemon villosum, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 85 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 310. 
Cache creek ; June 14 ; flowers not yet expanded. 

Dalcba aurea, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 308 ; Gray, 
PI. Wright. 2, p. 41. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. July 5. 

D. lanata, Spreng. Syst. 3, p. 327. D. lanuginosa, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 1, p. 307. Big Witchita and on the Main Fork of the Red River ; fl. 
June 27. 

D. laxsflora, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 741 ; Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101 ; Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 1, p. 307. D. pencillata, Moricand, PI. Nouv. Amer., t. 45. Common on 
all the upper waters of the Red River ; May- July. 

Amorpha canescens, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 92 ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 306. 
Witchita Mountains ; fl. May 30. 

Astragalus Nuttal-lianus, DC. Prodr. 2, p. 289 ; Torr. and Gr. 2, p. 234. 
Upper waters of the Red River ; fl. and fr. May 5. The flowers are larger than 
usual in this species. 

A. cartocarpus, Ker. Bot. Reg., t, 176 ; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 331. Head- 
waters of the Trinity. May 2 ; in flower only. 

Oxytropis Lamberti, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 740 ; Torr. and Gr.', FL 1, p. 339, 
With the preceding; fl. in May. 

Desmodium sessilifolium, Torr. and Gr. 1, p. 363. Witchita Mountains. 
The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy are in a state of remark- 
able fasciation. The branches of the panicle are coalesced (sometimes almost 
to the summit) into a broad flat mass, which is covered with sessile flowers and 
fruit. 

Clitoria Mariana, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 290 ; Torr., FL N. York, 
1, p. 163, t. 24. On the Washita ; fl. July 27. 

Baptisia australis, R. Br. ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 385. Sources of the 
Red River : fl. and fr. June 6-10. 

B. LEucopHiEA, Nutt., Gen. 1, p, 282 ; Torr. and Gr. 1. c. Common on the 
upper tributaries of the Red River ; fl. April, fr. May. 

Hofpmanseggia Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 293 ; Gray, PL Lindh. 2, 
p. 178. With the preceding ; fl. and fr. June 14-24. 



272 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Cassia Cham.ecrista, Linn. , Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 395. Tributaries of 
the Washita ; fl. July 22. 

Schrankia uncinata, Willd.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 400. Mouth of 
Medicine River, &c. ; fl. April. 

Acacia lutea, Leavenw. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 403. On the Witchita 

Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 14. The leaves are remarkably sensitive. 

ROSACEA. 



Sanguisorba annua, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr,, Fl. 1, p. 429. Pottrium an- 
nuuin, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 1, p. 198. 



ONAGRACEiE. 

(Enothera ruombipetala, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 493 ; Kunze, 
in Linnasa, 20, p. 55. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. June 24. 

CE. sinuata, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 294. Witchita Mountains and 
upper tributaries of Red River ; May- June. 

CE. speciosa, Nutt., in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 119 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. c. 
Big Witchita ; fl. May 8. Middle Fork of the Red River ; fr. June 21. 

OE. lavandul.ef olia, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501 ; Hook. Lond. Jour. Bot. 
6, p. 223 ; Gray, PL Wright. 1, p. 72. Big Witchita and North Fork of Red 
River ; fl. May 8, fr. June 6. The leaves in all our specimens of this rare spe- 
cies are nearly glabrous, about one inch and a half long, and 2-3 lines wide, 
with the apex rather acute. The fruit is well described by Hooker, (1. c.) 

CE. serulata, Nutt., Gen. 1, p. 246; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501. Com- 
mon on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; May- June. 

Gaura coccinea, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 249 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 518. North 
Fork of Red River ; fl. June 6. 

G. villosa, Torr. Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 200; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 
518 ; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, p. 73. Witchita Mountains ; fr. July 14. The 
ripe fruit is not always reflexed. It is (including the stripe) about 7 lines long, 
ovate, strongly tetraquetrous, abruptly contracted at the base, and 2-4-seeded ; 
the seeds more or less imbricated. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANYo 273 



LOASACEiE, 



Mentzelia nuda, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 535 ; Gray, PL FendL, p. 47, and 
PI. Wright. 1, p. 73 ; Bartonia nuda, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 297. Witchita Mount- 
ains ; fl. June 22. 



CUCURBITACEJL 

Cucurbita perennis, Gray, PI. Lindh. 2, p. 193 ; and Wright. PL 2, p. 60. 
Cfatidissima, H. B. and Kunth? Cucumis perennis, James, in Long% Exped, 
2, p. 20 ; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 543. North Fork of the Platte ; fl. June 6. 
Although the cultivated plant seems to be dioecious not unpleasant to the smell, 
Mr. Wright says, (vide Gray, 1. c.) that in a wild state it is " certainly monoe- 
cious, and exhales an unpleasant smell when bruised ;" so that it does not differ 
from the description of C.foetidissima, except that the latter is said by Kunth to 
be an annual, which may be a mistake. The flowers are as large as those of the 
common pumpkin. 

Sictdium, sp. nov? Fruit 1| inch in diameter, globose, sessile. Seeds ^ 
larger than in S. Lindheimeri, and more turgid. On the Main Fork of Red 
River ; fr. July 11. 



GROSSULACEJL 

Ribes aureum, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 164 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 552. North 
Fork of Red River ; fr. June 4. 

UMBELLIFERyE. 

Ertngium diffusum, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 207 ; Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 1, p. 603. Witchita Mountains ; fl. June 14. This rare species has not 
been found before, since it was first discovered by Dr. James, more than thirty 
years ago. It is rather doubtful whether it is diffuse, except, perhaps, when it 
is old. The specimens of Captain Marcy are less branched than the original one 
from which the description in the Flora of North America was drawn. 

Leptocaulis echinatus, Nutt., in DC. Prodr. 4, p. 107 ; Torr. and Gr., FL 
1, p. 609. Headwaters of the Trinity ; April 2. 

PolytjEnia Nuttatlii, DC. Umb , p. 53, t. 13, and Prodi. 4, p. 196 ; Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 533. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. June 1. Witchita 
Mountains ; fr. July 16. 

18 



274 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Euryt^enia Texana, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. p. 633. Main Fork of Red 
River ; fr. June 11. This plant has hitherto been found only by the late Mr. 
Drummond, who discovered it in Texas more than twenty years ago. It is an 
annual, about two feet high ; the fine stride of the stem and branches are rough- 
ened upward, with minute points. The umbels are compound and spreading. 
Flowers minute. Petals white, broadly orbicular, waved on the margin, deeply 
emarginate, with an inflexed point. Fruit about one-third larger than in Drum- 
mond 's Texan specimen. 



RUBIACE^. 

Gldenlandia angustifolia, Gray, PI. Wright. 2, p. 68. Houstonia angus- 
tifolia, Mich. Fl. 1, p. 85 ; Hedyotis stenophylla, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 41. 
Tributaries of the Main Fork of Red River ; fl. May — June. 



VALERIANCE^. 

Fedia radiata, 0. leiocarpa, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p, 52. Upper Red 
River. 



COMPOSITE. 

Liatris squarrosa, Willd. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 68 ; Sweet Fl. Gard., 
t. 44. Tributaries of the Washita River ; fl. July 22—24. 

L. acidota, Engelm. and Gray, PI. Lindh., p. 10 ; Gray PI. Wright. 1, p. 
83. L. mucronata, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 70 ; not of DC. On the Wa- 
shita ; July 27. 

Solidago odori, Nutt. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 219. Witchita Moun- 
tains ; July 16. 

S. Missouriensis, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 7, p. 32, and Trans. Amer. 
Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 327 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 222. With the prece- 
ding. 

Artemisa filifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 211 ; Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 2, 417. Upper tributaries of the Red River ; May. An abundant shrub, 
of a grayish white aspect, with numerous branches, and crowded, slender 
leaves. This is one of the numerous species called sage by the hunters. It is 
found from the plains of the Upper Missouri to the Valley of the Rio Grande, 
and west to the Colorado. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 275 

Achillea millefolium, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., PI. 2, p. 409. With the 
preceding. It is the woolly form that almost exclusively occurs west of the 
Mississippi. 

Zinnia grandiflora, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 348 ; 
Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 298 ; Torr. in Emory's Rep., t. 4, Gray, PI. Fendl., 
p. 81. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. July 2. 

Riddellia tagetina, Nutt. 1. c, p. 371; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 362; 
Torr. in Emory's Rep., t. 5 ; Gray, PI. Fendl. p. 93. Main Fork of Red 
River ; June 25 — July 8. The pappus is more hyaline and acute than in speci- 
mens from other localities in my herbarium. It is also slightly lacerate 
at the tip, showing something of a transition to R. arachnoidea. The leaves, 
too, are more woolly and broader than in the more common form of the 
plant. 

Rudbeceia hirta, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 307. Witchita 
Mountains ; fl. June 1. Is R. bicolor distinct from this species? Dr. Gray re- 
marks, (Plant. Lindh. 2. p. 227,) that in cultivation, the purple brown of the 
rays is commonly obsolete or wanting in all the later heads. 

Echinacea angustifolia, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 554 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 
306. Witchita Mountains ; June 1. 



Lepachts columnaris, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 315. Rudbeckia columnaris, 
Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 575. Common on all the tributaries of the Red River : 
June. 

Helianthus petiolaris, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 115 ; Sweet 
Brit. FL Gard. (n. ser.) t. 75. With the preceding. 

Gaililardia pulchella, Foug. ; DC. Prodr. 5, p. 652 ; Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 2, p. 366. Common on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; May — 
June. 

Palafoxia callosa, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 369. Stevia callosa, Nutt. in 
Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 121 ; Bart. Fl. Amer. Sept., t. 46. ftfoliis latioribus. 
Tributaries of the Washita ; June. 

Htmenopappcs corymbosus, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 372. H. Engclmmmi- 
anus, Kunth. 



276 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Actinella linearifolia, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 383. Hymenoxys lineari- 
folia, Hook. Witchita mountains ; May 30. 



tsHALLiA caespitosa, Nutt. in DC. Prodr. 5, p. 680 ; Hook. Bot. 
t. 3704; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 391. Headwaters of the Trinity river; 
May. 

Aphanostephus ramosissimus, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 310 ; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, 
p. 93. Jl. Riddellii, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 2, p. 189. Egletes ramosissima, Gray, 
PI. Fendl., p. 71. Little Witchita and upper tributaries of Red River ; May — 
June. The tube of the disk flowers is indurated in all the specimens. 

Engelmannia pinnatifida, Torr. and Gr. s in Nutt. Trans. Am. Phil. 
Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 343 ; and Fl. 2, p. 283. Witchita Mountains ; May 30. 

Melampodium cinereum, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 518; Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 78: 
M ramosissimum, DC. 1. c, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 2, p. 271. M. lencanthum, Torr. 
and Gr. 1. c. Cache Creek ; June 21. A variable species. 

Chrtsopsis canescens, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 256 ; Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 
77. Main Fork of Red River ; July 8. 

C. hispida, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 22, (under Diplopappus ;) DC. Prodr. 
7, p. 279 ; Torr. and Gr. 1. c. 



Centaurea Americana, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 117 ; Bart. Fl. 
Amer. — Sept., t. 50 ; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 453. Tributaries of the upper 
Red River ; June — July. 

Cirsium undulatum, Spreng.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 456. With the pre- 
ceding. 

Ptrrhopappus Carolinianus, DC. Prodr. 7. p. 144 ; Nutt. in Trans. Amer. 
Phil Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 430. Headwaters of the Trinity and on Cache Creek : 

May. 

Lygodesmia juncea, Don.; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 295, t. 103; Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 484. Upper tributaries of the Red River; June. The lower 
branches are covered at the base with tubers or galls, about the size of cherry- 
stones, produced by the stings of insects. 



APPENDIX G.- — BOTANY. 277 

L. aphylla, DC. Prodr. 7, p. 198 ; Torr. and Gr., PI. 2, p. 485. Texana, 
Torr. and Gr. 1. c. North Fork of Red River ; June 16. The numerous radi- 
cal leaves are 3-4 inches long, runcinately pinnatifid. Achenia angular, dis- 
tinctly tapering upward. 



ASCLEPIADACEJL 

Ascelpias tueerosa, Linn.; Michx Fl. 1, p. 117 ; Sweet. Brit. Fl. Gard., 
{ser. 2,) t. 24 ; Decaisne, in DG Prodr. 8, p. 567. Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 
123. Upper tributaries of Red River ; May — June. The leaves vary from 
■ovate and amplexicaul to narrowly linear. 

A. speciosa, Torr. in Ann. Lye. 2, p. 218, and in Fremont's First R.ep., p. 
95. A. Douglasii, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 53, t. 142 ; Decaisne, 1. c. 
Witchita Mountains to the upper tributaries of the Red River ; fl. June — 
July ; flowers larger than in any other North American species of Asclepias. 

Acerates paniculata, Decaisne, L c. p. 521 ; Asclepias viridis, Walt., FL 
Carol, p. 107? Jlnantherix paniculatus, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. 
(n. ser.) 5, p. 202. Cache Creek and Middle Fork of Red River, fl. May 16, 
fr. June. 

A. decumbens, Decaisne, 1. c. Jlnantherix decumbens, Nutt. 1. c. Cache 
Creek ; fl. May 17. The follicles oblong, not muricate. 

A. amgustifolia, Decaisne, 1. c. Polyotus angustifolius, Nutt. 1. c. Branch 
of Cache Creek ; fl. May 17. 

A. viridiflora, Ell. sk. 1, p. 317 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 124 ; Decaisne, 
L c. Asclepias viridiflora, Pursh. Fl. 1, p. 181 ; Hook. Fl. Bor. Am. 2, p. 53, t. 
143. North Fork of Red River ; fl. June 4. The specimens collected by Cap- 
tain Marcy belong to the broad-leaved forms of the plant. 

Enslenia albida, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 164, and in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. 
(n. ser.) 5, p. 203 ; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 518. Main Fork of Red 
River ; not in flower. 



APOCYNACEiE. 

Apoctnum cannabinum, Linn. ; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Amer. 2, p. 51, t. 139 ; 
Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 439 ; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. — . Common on 
the upper tributaries of Red River ; May — June. 



278 APPENDIX G. BOTANT?. 

Amsonia salicifolia, Pursh, FL 1, p. 184 ; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p„ 
385. Witchita Mountains ; fr. July 16. This is perhaps only a variety of Jl. 
angustifolia, Michx., and both may not be specifically distinct from A. tahernm- 
niontana, * 



GENTIAN AGE. 

Sabbatia campestris, Nutt, in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5 ? p. 167 ; 
Griseb., in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 50 ; Engelm. and Gr., PI. Lindh. 1, p. 15. On 
the Washita ; fl. and fr. July 27. 

Erythr;ea Beyrichii, Torr. and Gr., FL 2, ined. E. trichantka 0. angusti- 
folia, Griseb, 1, c. With the preceding ; fl. and fr. July 26. 

Eustoma Ru3shlianum, Don. ; Griseb. in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 51. Lisianthus 
glaucifolius, Nutt. 1. c. L. Russelianus, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3626. Washita 
River to the upper tributaries of the Red River ; July. 



CONVGLVULACELE. 

Evoi.vulus pilosus, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 174, (as a synonym) ; Trans. Amer. 
Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 195. E, argentens, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 187; Choisy, in 
DC. Prodr. 9, p. 443 ; not of R. Br. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22. 
Choisy doubtingly refers Brown's plant to JE. hirsutus, Lam., and therefore has 
adopted Pursh 's name. 

Convolvulus lobatus, Engelm., and Gray, PL Lindh. 1, p. 44 (in a note.) 
C. hastatus, Nutt.. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc (n. ser.) 5, p. 194 ; not of Thunb, 
C. Mittallii, Torr. in Emory's Rep., p. 149. Middle Fork of Red River ; May 
22 — June 6. This species has much the appearance of C. althseoides, Boss. 

C. (Ipomcea) leptophyllus, Torr., in Frem. First Report, p. 94, and in 
Emory's Report, p. 148, t. 11. With the preceding, 

C. (Ipomcea) shumardianus, (sp. nov. ;) caule gracili subpubescente ; foliis 
ovato-lanceolatis sursum angustatis basi acutis ; pedunculis petiolas Iongioribus 
sepalis ovatis obtusis. Witchita Mountains ; fl. July 17 ; flowers as large as in 
C. panduratus, which the plant much resembles, but differs in the form of the 
leaves, and in the broader and more obtuse sepals. Named in honor of Dr. G. 
C. Shumard, the botanical collector of the expedition. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 279 



SOLANACE.E. 

Solanum flavidum, Toit. Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 227 ; Dunal in DC. 
Prodr. 13, p. 375. Cache Creek ; May. This species is not suffrutescent, as 
is stated in the original description, but probably annual. Mr. Wright found it 
on the Rio Grande. The prickles are sometimes almost wanting. 

S. Carolinense, Linn. ; Torr., Fl. N. York 2, p. 105; Dunal, 1. c, p. 305. 
Witchita Mountains and upper tributaries of the Red River ; May- June. 

Physalis pumila, Nutt, in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 193. With 
the preceding ; May- June. This species has been overlooked by Dunal in 
DC. Prodr. 



SCROPHULARIACEiE. 

Castilleja purpurea, G. Don. ; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 531. Euchro- 
ma purpurea, Nutt., 1. c, p. 180. Sources of the Trinity River ; May. 

Penstemon grandiflorus, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, and Gen. 2, p. 53; 
Benth., 1. c, p. 322. P. Bradhurii, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 738. North Fork of Red 
River ; fl. June 3. The pedicels vary from three lines to nearly an inch in 
length. 

P. ambiguus, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 228 ; Benth., 1. c, p. 321, 
Witchita Mountains; June. This rare and well characterized species has lately 
been found by Mr. Wright on the upper Rio Grande. 

P. CoBiEA, Nutt., 1. c. ; Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3465; Benth., 1. c s p. 326. 
Upper tributaries of the Red River ; May-June. 

P. pubescens, Soland. ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 35 ; Benth., 1. c. Head- 
waters of the Trinity. Smoothish, with narrower and more entire leaves than 
usual. 

Gerardia grandiflora, Benth., Comp. Bot. Mag., 1, p. 206. Dasystmna 
Drummondi, Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 521. On the Washita ; fl. July 27. 



280 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 



LABIATE. 

Monarda aristata, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 186; 
Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 363. Main Fork of Red River ; May 24-25. Nut- 
tall says that this species is sometimes perennial ; but all our specimens seem to 
be annual. A variety was found on Cache Creek, in which the teeth of the 
calyx are aristate from a broad base, and strongly hispid-ciliate. The corolla is 
not spotted, as in the ordinary form. 

M. punctata, Linn. ; Benth., 1. c. ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 59. M. lutea, 
Michx., Fl. 1, p. 16. North and Middle Forks of Red River ; May-June. A 
dwarfish and annual form, in which the corolla is scarcely spotted, was found in 
the same region. 

Teucrium Cubense, Linn. ; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 578. T. lacinia- 
tum, Torr., in Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 231. Cache creek and Middle Fork 
of Red River ; Ma) r . This species was incorrectly described by me as " fruiti- 
culose " in the work quoted. 

Scutellaria resinosa, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 232 ; Benth., in 
DC. Prodr. 12, p. 427. Cache Creek and Sweetwater Creek ; May 18- June 9. 

S. parvula, Michx., Fl. l,p. 12; Benth., 1. c: Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 71. 
S. ambigua, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 37. 



VERBENACEiE. 

Lippia cuneifolia, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 234, (under 
ma.) Witchita Mountains, and on the Washita ; June 1-27. Schauer has 
overlooked this species, in his revision of Verbenacect for DC. Prodr. 

Verbena bipinnatifida, Engelm. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 49 ; Schauer, 
in DC. Prodr. 11, p. 553. Glandularia bipinnatifida, Nutt., in Jour. Acad. Phil. 
2, p. 123, and in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 184. Sources of the Trinity 
and upper tributaries of Red River ; May-June. 



BORAGINACE.E. 

Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt., in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 190 ; 
DC. Prodr. 9, p. 559. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. June 23. I am now con- 
vinced that my E. grandijlora (Emory's Report, p. 147) is an unusually large- 
flowered state of the present species. The plant is abundant on the Upper Rio 
Grande. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 281 

Eritrichium Jamesii. Myosotis suffruticosct, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 
2, p. 225 ; DC. Prodr. 10, p. 114. North Fork of Red River ; fl. and fr. June 14. 
This plant had not been found, till Captain Marcy collected it, since it was dis- 
covered by Dr. James, in Long's Expedition. It is a genuine Eritrichium, but 
can hardly be referred to any one of De Candolle's sections of that genus. My 
description (1. c.) was drawn from old and imperfect specimens, the stems of 
which were indurated at the base so as to appear suffrutescent. As more com- 
plete specimens show the plant to be herbaceous, the former specific name is 
not appropriate. The allied Fendlerian species No. 636 (E. multicaule Torr. 
Mss.) is very hispid and canescent, with spreading hairs, and throws up several 
stems from a thick root or caudex. Leaves linea-spatulate and obtuse. Flow- 
ers on conspicuous pedicels. Fructiferous calyx broadly ovate, nearly erect ; 
the segments ovate-lanceolate and closed over the fruit. Nutlets truncate at 
the summit, very smooth and shining. 



POLEMONIACE^l. 

Phlox pilosa, Linn.; Benth, in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 305. Sources of the Trini- 
ty ; May. 



primulacej:. 

Dodecatheon Meadia, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 136; DC. Prodr. 8, p. 56. 
Sources of the Trinity ; fl. May. 



SANTALACEvE. 

Comandra umbellata, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 157 ; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 
139, t. 79, f. A ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 160. Thesium umbellatum, Linn. 
Tributaries of the Red River ; May. There are few plants that have a wider 
range in latitude and longitude than this. 



282 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 



EUPHORBIACEiE. 

Euphorbia corollata, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, 
p. 175, t. 99. On the Washita ; July. 

E. marginata, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607 ; Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 224. 
Main Fork of Red River ; July 8. Upper part of the stem hairy. 



E. helioscopia, Linn.; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 174, (excl. syn. Pursh;) 
Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 405. Headwaters of the Trinity ; fl. May. 



Stillingia lanceolata, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 176. 
S. sylvatica 0. salicifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. Middle Fork 
of Red River ; fl. June 4. 



Hendecandra Texensis, Klotsch in Erich. Arch. (1841) 1, p. 252 ; Engel. 
and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 53. Croton muricatum, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. 
soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 153. H. multiflora, Torr. in Frem. First Rep., p. 96. Mid- 
dle Fork of Red River ; fl. and fr. June 22. 



Gynamblosis monanthogtna. Engelmannia Nuttalliana, Klotsch, 1. c. 
Croton monanthogynum, Michx. Fl. 2, p. 215. C. ellipticum, Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 
235, (excl. syn.;) Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. Main Fork of Red 
River ; June 24. The Engelmannia of Klotsch, which is based on Croton ellip- 
ticum of Nuttall, must give place to the earlier genus of the same name of Torr. 
and Gray. I propose for it a manuscript name given to the plant many years 
ago, when revising the Euphorbiaceaz of the United States. Klotsch is wrong 
in referring Croton monanthogynum to Hendecandra maritima. In the young 
specimens of Captain Marcy all the staminate flowers are 8-10 androus : and the 
later flowers are not unfrequently hexandrous. The petals and sepals vary from 
three to five. 



Tragia ramosa, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. T. angustifolia, 
Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 172. T. brevispica, Engel. and 
Gray, PL Lindh. 1, p. 54. North Fork of the Red River ; June. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 283 

Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Engel. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 26. Jatropha 
stimulosa, Michx. Fl. 2, p. 216 ; Ell. Sk. 2, p. 649. Cache Creek ; May 17. 



PLANTAGENACEiE. 

Plantago Virginica, Linn.; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. 16. Headwaters of 
the Trinity, fl. May. 

P. gnaphaloides, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 100 ; Hook. Fl. Bor.— Am. 2, p. 124; 
Decaisne in DC. Prodr. 13, (Sact. 1,) p. 713. Mouth of the Big Medicine 
River. 



POLYGQNACEiE. 

Eriogonum longifolium, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
164 ; Benth. Eriog. in Linn. Trans. 17, page 406. Witchita Mountains ; June. 



CHENOPODIACE.E. 

Chenopodium subspicatum, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 199? Middle Fork of Red 
River. The specimens are without either flowers or fruit. Annual, diffuse, 
and much branched ; clothed with whitish furfuraceous scales. Leaves con- 
spicuously petiolate, broadly rhombic ovate, with one or two coarse teeth on 
each side. 

Obione canescens, Moq. Chenop., p. 74 ; and DC. Prodr. 13, (pars 2,) p. 
113 ; Torr., in Stansbury's Report, p. 395. 0. occidentalis, Moq. 1. c. Calli- 
gonium canescens, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 370. Jitriplcx canescens, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 197. 
Common on the upper tributary of the Red River. 



NYCTAGINACEiE. 

Oxybaphus angustifolius, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 237 ; Choisy, 
in DC, Prodr. 13, (pars 2,) p. 433. Calymenia angusti 'folia, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 
1813, and Gen. 1, p. 26. Upper tributaries of Red River ; June. 

O. nyctagineus, Torr., 1. c. ; Choisy, 1. c. Mlionia nyctaginea, Michx., Fl. 
1, p. 100. Calymenia corymbosa, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
p. 178; not Mirabilis corymbosa, Cav., in which the involucrum is one-flowered. 
With the preceding ; May 28. 



284 APPENDIX G-- — EOT ANY. 

O. Hirsutus, Sweet ; Hook. Fl. Bor.-Amer. 2, p. 124 ; Choisy, 1. c. Mlio- 
nia hirsuta, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 728. With the preceding. V . Stem erect, 2-3 
feet high, sparingly branched ; viscously pubescent ; leaves 2-3 inches long, 
and 1-1| inch wide, on very short petioles, nearly entire. Flowers in a long, 
loose terminal and naked panicle ; involucre 3-flowered, rotate-companulate. 
Fruit fusiform, oblong, 5-angled. As in most of the Nydaginacece, this plant 
abounds in cells filled with raphides. These are so abundant in the liber of the 
root, that they form a layer of a silvery white color. 

Abronia mellifera, Dougl., in Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 2879 ; Choisy, 1. c. 
Cache Creek ; fl. and fr. May 18. The specimens in the collection agree exact- 
ly with Douglas's plant collected in California, and named by Sir William 
Hooker. 

CUPULIFERJE. 

Qdercus undulata, Torr., in Ann. Lye, 2, p. 248, t. 4. Abundant on the 
upper tributaries of the Red River. Stems 1-2 feet long, from a thick woody 
base, sparingly branched above. Leaves oblong, two inches or more in length, 
undulate, and furnished with 1-3 rather obtuse and scarcely mucronate teeth 
on each side, densely and softly pubescent underneath, nearly smooth above, 
thick and somewhat coriaceous. 

CONIFERiE. 

Juniperus Virginiana, Linn.; Michx. f. Sylv. 2, p. 353, t. 155 ; Torr., Fl. 
N. York, 2, p. 235. J. sabina, Hook., Fl. Bor.-Am. 2, p. 166. Middle Fork 
of Red River. 

HYPOXIDACE.E. 

Hypoxis erecta, Linn.; Bart , Fl. N. Amer., 1, t. 35, f. 1; Torr., Fl. N. 
York, 2, p. 289. Headwaters of the Trinity River ; May. 

COMMELYNACEiE. 

Commelyna angustifolia, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 53; Torr., Fl. N. 
York, 2, p. 332. North Fork of Red River ; May-June. 

Tradescantia virginica, Linn.; Bot. Mag., t. 105; Bart. 1. c, t. 41; 
Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 81 ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 333. Abundant on the up- 
per tributaries of Red River ; May-June ; extremely variable in pubescence, 
and in the breadth of the leaves. 



APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 



IRIDACEvE. 



Sisyrinchium Bermudiana, Linn.; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 290. Head- 
waters of the Trinity ; May . 

Nemastylis acuta ; with the preceding-. 



LILIACE.E. 

Scilla esculenta, Ker. Bot. Mag-., t. 1574. Phalangium esculentum, 
Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, Gen. 1, p. 219. P. Quamash, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 226, 
Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 

Allium Canadense, Kalm ; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 223 ; Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 450 ; 
Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 308, On Cache Creek ; fl. May 14. 

A. ochroleucum, Nutt. Trans, Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 156; not of 
Waldst. and Kit. Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 

A. reticulatum, Fras ? Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 435. Jl. angulosum, fi. lenchor- 
hizum, Nutt. 1. c. ? Common on the tributaries of Red River, Bulb usually 
covered with dark reticulated coats, but sometimes na.ked. 



MELANTHACEiE. 

Amianthium Nuttalii, Gray, in Ann. Lye, N. York, 4, p. 123. Helonias 
angustifolia, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 154. Jlmiantan- 
thus, Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 181, Headwaters of the Trinity ; May, 

CYPERACE^S. 

Cyperus Schweinitzii, Torr. Cyp., p. 276; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 343. C, alter- 
niflorus, Schwein., in Long's 2d Exped., 2, p. 381 (not of R. Br.) Middle and 
North Forks of Red River ; May-June. 

C. Strigosus, Linn,; Torr., Cyp., p. 261 ; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 340, t. 136, 
Witchita Mountains ; July. 

Cyperus acuminatus, Torr. and Hook., in Torr. Cyp. Suppl. Witchita 
Mountains ; July 15. 



286 APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 

Fimbristylis spadicea, Vahl, Enum, 2, p. 294 ; Torr. Cyp., p. 346 ; Kunth, 
Enum. 2, p. 237 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 360. Headwaters of the Trinity ; 

May. 

Cares Muhlenbergii, Schk. Car. 2, p. 12, f. 178 ; Schwein. and Torr. 
Car., p. 304 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 374. Headwaters of the Trinity, and on 
Cache Creek ; May- June. 

C. festucacea, Schk. Car. f. 173 ; Carey, in Gray's Bot. N. States, p. 545. 
C. straminea. var. festucacea, Torr. 1. c. With the preceding. 



GRAMINEiE. 

Phalaris angusta, Nees ; Trin. Ic. Gram. t. 78 ; Kunth, Gram. 2, p. 32. 
P. occidentalism Nutt., in Trans. Anier. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 144. On 
Cache Creek ; May 16. This plant is certainly P. angusta of Trinius, of 
which I have specimens named by that distinguished botanist. It appears, 
however, scarcely to differ from P. microstaclya, DC. 

Paspalum ljeve, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 44 ; Trin. Panic. Gen., p. 160 ; Torr., Fl. 
N. York, 2, p. 421. Main Fork of Red River ; June. 

Panicum pauciflorum, Ell. Sk. 1, p. 120 ; Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 613. 
Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 

P. reticulatum, (n. sp.;) culmo geniculate erecto subsimplici ; foliis vagin- 
isque laxe pilosis ; panicula obionga contracta, ramulis racemosis paucifloris ; 
spiculis obovatis acutiusculis gTabris breviter pedicellatis muticis ; glumis valde 
inaequalibus ; flore neutro bivalvi ; palea inferiore (ut in gluma superiora) 
7-costulata reticulata, flore hermaphrodite transverse ruguloso. On the Main 
Fork of Red River ; July. Nos, 2090 and 2091, Wright's Coll. N. Mex, 
1851-52, are glabrous and more robust forms of this species. 

P. obtusum, (H. B. K. ?) spicis 5-7 racemosim dispositis erectis ; spiculis 
geminis subimbricatis unilateralibus muticis obovatis obtusis glabris ; glumis 
Eequalibus multinervosis ; flore inferiore triandro bipaleaceo ; flore hermaphro- 
dite subtilissime longitudinaliter striato subnitido. — H. B. and Kunth, Nov. 
Gen. 1, p. 98? Tributaries of the Washita. Plant glabrous and glaucous, 
about 18 inches long. Raehis narrowly linear, very flexuous ; nerves of the 
glumes green. Near P. obtusum, H. B. K., but differs in the nearly equal 
glumes, &c. No. 2092 Wright's Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52, is exactly our 
plant. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 287 

Aristida fasciculata, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 154 ; Kunth, 
Enum. 2, p. 196. A. purpurea, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
p. 145. Middle Fork of Red River ; May-June. 



Agrostis (Sporobolus) airoides, Torr, in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 151. 
With the preceding. The axils of the panicle are nearly glabrous in Captain 
Marcy's specimens. 



Calamagrostis gigantea, Nutt. 1. c., p. 143. Middle Fork of Red River 
June 23. 



Chloris verticillata, Nutt. 1. c. With the preceding ; June 25. An ele- 
gant grass, near C. alba, Presl. and Torr. in Emory's Rep. p. 153. 



Bouteloua racemosa, Lag. Var. Cienc. (1805) p. 141 ; Torr. in Emory's 
Rep., p. 154 ; not of Torr. Fl. N. York. Dinebra curtipendula, DC? Kunth, 
Syn. PI. Eq. 1, p. 281 ; excl. syn. Michx. Eutriana curtipendula, Trin. Fund. 
p. 161 (in part ;) Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 280, and Suppl. p, 233; excl. syn. Michx, 
and Willd. Main Fork of Red River ; July. The detailed description of this 
species by Kunth, 1. c, (drawn from a Mexican specimen collected by Hum- 
boldt) shows that the Chloris curtipendula of Michaux (Bouteloua curtipendula,, 
Torr.) is a distinct species, as indicated in Emory's Report, 1. c, 



Chondrosium oligostachyum. Atheropogon oligostachyum, Nutt. Gen. 1, p, 
78 ; Torr. in Sill. Jour. 4, p. 58. Eutriana ? oligostachya, Kunth. Gram, 1, p. 
96, ex. Enum. 2, p. 282. Main Fork of Red River ; July 2. 



C. papillosum. Jltheropogon papillosum, Engelm. in Sill. Jour. 46, p. 104.. 
With the preceding, of which it is perhaps only a variety. The species of 
Chondrosium and Bouteloua are known by the name of Grama Grasses in New 
Mexico and Texas. 



Pleuraphis Jamesii, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 148, t. 10 ; Kunth, 
Enum. 1, p. 285. Main Fork of Red River; July. Kunth (1. c.) asks whether 
this is not Hymenotheceium quinquesetem of Lagasca ; but the brief description 
of that author (in Gen. et. Sp. PL Nov. 1816) does not agree with our 
plant. 



288 APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 

Sesleria dactyloides, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 65; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 323; Torr 
in Emory's Report, p. 323, t. 10. Upper tributaries of the Red river; July 
This is the well known Buffalo-grass of the western prairies. It is remarkable 
that neither the grain nor the fertile flowers of this grass are known. 

Poa (Eragrostis) oxylepis. P. interrupta, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. 
(n. ser.) 5, p. 146; not of Lam. Witchita mountains; July. A very neat grass. 
The specimens of Captain Marcy are only about 18 inches high. 

P. eragrostis. Linn.: Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 333; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 458. 
North Fork of Red river; July. 

P. arachnifera: panicula oblonga contracta, ramulis semiverticillatis; spicis 
subquinquefloris, lato-ovatis, fioribus laxis basi et racheos longe lanoso-arach- 
noideis; glumis inequalibus anguste-lanceolatis, in carina scabris; palea inferiore 
lineari-lanceolata acutissima obscure 3-5-nervata, carina inferne ciliata. 

0? spiculis 9-10 floris, rachi sparsa lanosa. Headwaters of the Trinity; May. 

Melica glabra, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 62. Witchita mountains; May 30. 

Koeleria cristata, Pers. Syn. 1, p. 97; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 381. K. nitida, 
Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 74. K. tuberosa, Nutt. in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 
148. Headwaters of the Trinity. 

Festuca nutans, Willd., Enum. 1, p. 116; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 407; Torr. 
Fl. N. York, 2, p. 471, t. 158. Witchita mountains; June. 

F. tenella, Willd. 1. c; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 397; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 
470, t. 154. Headwaters of the Trinity; taller than the plant of the Atlantic 
States. 

Uniola latifoi.ia, Michx., Fl. 1, p. 71; Ell. Sk. 1, p. 167; Kunth, Enum. 
1, p. 425. Witchita mountains; July. A tall showy grass, with very large 
much compressed spikelets. 

U. stricta, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 155. U. multiftora, Nutt., 
in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 148. Washita river to the upper trib- 
utaries of the Red river; June-July. No. 2033 Wright's Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52 
is the same. 

Triticum repens, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 440; Torr., Fl. N. York; 2, p. 
474. Common on the tributaries of Red river; May-June. All the specimens 
are awnless. 

Elymt/s Canadensis, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 451; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, 
p. 476. E. glaucifolius, Willd. Cache creek, &c; June. 



APPENDIX G. — BOTANY. 289 

Hordeum Jubatum. Linn.; Torr.j PI. Mid. and N. States, 1, p. 158; Kunth, 
Enwn. 1, p. 457. Tributariee of Red river. 

H. POSUL1.0M, Nutt, Gen, 1, p, 87, and Trans. Araer, Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
p. 151: Kunth, Enum. 1, p, 457. 

Trjpsacum BACTfLOiDEs, Linn.; Michx. Fl. 1, p. 61; Nutt. 1. c; Kunth, 
Enum. 1, p. 469, North Fork of Red river; June. 

^wdropogon Jamesh. Jl. glaucum, Torr. , in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 153; 
not of Muhl . With the preceding. 

EQUISETACEjE. 

etwm HYEMAI.E, Linn.; Pursh, FL 2, p. 652; Torr., Fl. New York, 2, 
in Fork of Red river, 



APPENDIX Gt. BOTANY. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES. 

Plate I. Anemone Caroliniana. 

Fig. 1, a stamen, magnified ; fig. 2, a head of pistils ; fig. 3, a head of ripe 
achenia, both magnified ; fig. 4, a single achenium, more enlarged. 

Plate II. Dythyrjba Wislizeni. 

Fig. 1, a flower, magnified ; fig. 2, the pistil, more enlarged ; fig. 3, a ripe 
pod, with one cell opened, to show the seed — also magnified ; fig. 4, the 
embryo, more magnified. 

Plate III. Geranium Fremontii.* 

Plate IV. Hgffmanseggia Jamesii. 

Fig. 1, a flower ; fig. 2, a pod ; fig. 3, seed — all moderately magnified. 

Plate V. Sahguisorba annua. 

Fig. 1, a flower; fig. 2, the fruit— both magnified. 

Plate VI. Eryngium diffusum. 

Fig. i, a separate leaf; fig. 2, a flower ; fig. 3, a petal ; fig. 4, the ovary, 
with the styles and three of the sepals ; fig. 5, front view of a stamen and 
sepal ; fig. 6, side view of the same — all but fig. 1 more or less magnified. 

Plate VII. Euryt-enia Tex an a. 

Fig. 1, a meriearp, magnified ; fig. 2, transverse section 'of the same, more 

magnified. 

i 

Plate VIII. Liatris acidota. 

Fig. 1, head of flowers, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, a single flower, more 
enlarged ; fig. 3, a single bristle of the pappus, still more enlarged. 

Plate IX. Aphanostephus ramosissimus. 

Fig. 1, a ray-flower; fig. 2, a disk-flower ; fig. 3, style of the same ; fig-. 4, 
achenium, with its coroniform pappus — all magnified. 



* This species was not found by Captain Marcy, but it grows in the region 
that he explored. The plate was prepared for another government report, 
which was never published. 



292 APPENDIX G.— BOTANY. 

Plate X. Xanthisma Texana. 

Fig. 1-3, scales of the involucre ; fig. 4, a disk-flower ; fig. 5, achenium and 
pappus of the same ; fig. 6, ray-flower ; fig. 7, style of the disk-flower — 
all magnified. 

Plate XI. Engelmannia pinnatifida. 

Fig 1, a ray-flower, with an inner involucral scale ; fig. 2, style of the 
same ; fig. 3, a disk-flower ; fig. 4, style of the same ; fig. 5, an achenium 
— all magnified. 

Plate XII. Artimesia filifolia. 

Fig. 1, portion of a flowering branch, moderately enlarged ; fig. 2, a single 
head, more magnified ; fig. 3, the same, longitudinally cut and equally 
magnified ; fig. 4, a disk-flower, and fig. 5, a ray-flower, both more mag- 
nified. 

Plate XIII. Erythr^ea Beyrichii. 

Fig. 1, a flower, magnified ; fig. 2, a capsule. 

Plate XIV. Heliotropium tenellum. 

Fig. 1, the calyx ; fig. 2, corollo, showing its aestivation ; fig. 3, the same, 
expanded ; fig. 4, the same, laid open ; fig. 5, fruit : fig. 6 longitudinal 
section of the seed— all magnified. 

Plate XV. Euploca comvolvulacea. 

Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, the same, laid open and 
equally magnified ; fig. 3, the stamens, more magnified ; fig. 4, a single 
stamen, still more magnified ; fig. 5, the pistil, equally magnified ; fig. G. 
fruit, with the persistent style ; fig 7, transverse section of the same, 
equally enlarged ; fig. 8, longitudinal section of a seed, more magnified. 

Plate XVI. Penstemon ambiguus. 

Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, the stamens and a portion of 
the corolla, more enlarged ; fig. 3, the pistil, equally magnified ; fig. 4, 
capsule twice the natural size, and dehiscent. 

Plate XVII. Lippia ciimeifolia. 

Fig. 1, a bract ; fig. 2, a flower ; fig 3, the calyx ; fig. 4, the corolla, cut 
longitudinally, showing the stamens and pistil — all moderately magni- 
fied ; fig. 5j the pistil, longitudinally cut, more enlarged. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 293 

Plate XVIII. Abronia ctcloptera. 

Fig. 1, involucre, somewhat magnified ; fig. 2, fruit of the natural size ; fig. 
3, transverse section of the fruit, magnified ; fig. 4, an achenium, magni- 
fied ; fig. 5 S transverse section of the same, also magnified ; fig. 6, the 
embryo. 

Plate XIX. POA 1NTERRUPTA. 

Fig. 1, a spikelet ; fig. 2, single flower; fig. 3, a caryopsis — all magnified. 

Plate XX. Uniola stricta. 

Fig. 1, a spikelet, magnified. 



APPENDIX H. 



ETHNOLOGY. 

VOCABULARIES OF WORDS IN THE LANGUAGES OF THE CO- 
MANCHES AND WITCHITAS : BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY. 



APPENDIX H 



ETHNOLOGY. 

VOCABULARIES OF WORDS IN THE LANGUAGES OF THE CO- 
MANCHES AND WITCHITAS : BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY. 



Man....... 

"Woman . . . 
White man. 
Mexican . . . 

Negro 

Indian.. . . . 
Delaware. . 
Kickapoo. . 
Cherokee . . 

Osage 

Comanche . 
Chief. 

Friend 

Enemy 

One 

Two....... 

Three...... 

Four ...... 

Five.. 
Six........ 

Seven 

Eight 

Nine 

Ten 

Horse... . . . 

Mule 

Bear 

Dog 

Prairie-dog. 

Sun 

Moon 

Stars 

Water 

Fire....... 

Road 

Smoke 

River 

Mountain. . 

Corn 

Grass 

Tree 

Blanket 

Mirror 



COMANCHE. 



To-e-bitch-e.. . . 

Wy-e-pe 

To-e-titch-e . . . 
Tack-o-ii-bo . . 
Toosh-ah-Jj/-bo . 



Wash-sashe. 



Taak-qtwi-no 
Hartch 

To-ho-ba-kah , 



Pooke 

Moo-rur . . . 
Whee -lah . . 
Charl-lee .. 
Kee-chee. . . 
Ta/i-arpe .. 

Mushe 

Tft-arehe .. 

Pah 

Koo-o-nah. 



CooA:-toe , 

Ho-no 

Tb-yah-vees-tah . 
Hah ne-fte-tah. . . 

Me cheese-ka.. . . . 

O/j.o-pee , 

Wah nopp 

■A/oA-bo-ne 



WITCHITA. 



Two-bear-e-fcefe-ah . 

A'rt/j-hank. 

E-fca-rish. 

Es-ta-he. 

Es-tah he-cs-co-rash . 

£/i-hos. 

Nar-tca/i-ro. 

Shake -/ca/j-quah. 

S/i-an-nack. 

Wash-sa.she. 

JVb taw. 

A-ra-oh. 

Hartch. 

Now-fa-wah. 

Cha-osth 

Witch. 

Tow -way. 

TaaZfc-witch. 

Es-qwaic-etch. 

Ae-hash. 

Ke-o/f-itch. 

Ke o-/«t«-wah. 

Sa o-Hn-te. 

Es-k ir-ri-ah -wash . 

Ca.-ivah-ra. 

Moo-tut. 

Wee-rah. 

Kcetch-ah. 

Aeec/ie-n'ah. 

A'ee-shaw. 

Moir (like French.) 

Eck-qua-rfe-co. 

Keetche. 

Es-tore. 

To ya,h-cdch-co. 

Etch-qua -ask-co , 

Hat. 

Ne-yaw-caic-tee. 

Tais. 

Ec yock-cod. 

Cawk. 

Ah watqr-cotsh. 

Atch-e-o-wash. 



298 



APPENDIX H, ETHNOLOGY. 



COMANCHE. 



WITCHITA. 



Paint.. 

Tobacco 

Powder 

Gun 

Bow 

Arrow 

Yes 

No..... 

To hear 

To sleep 

To come , 

To go 

Fight 

Understand 

Talk 

Look here 

I see 

Tell them 

He says 

How much ?. . . 
How far ?...., 

Good 

Bad 

Great 

Small 

Black 

Dead 

God 

My father 

My mother. . . 
My brother. . . 

My sister 

My son 

My daughter . 
My husband.. 

My wife 

Child 

Bojt 

Girl 

Face 

Body 

Head 

Heart 

Breast 

Hair 

Hand. 

Leg 

Foot 

Neck 

Eye 

Mouth 

Tongue 

Back 

Bone 

Blood 

Ear 

Scalp 

Buffalo . . . . . . 



Pees-ah-pee Tah-rah o-way. 

Pah-mo Way-co. 

Nah-co chee Etch-eod. 

Pe-i-it Kah-Zo-kash. 

Ho-a a-te Kee-s^i-its. 

Pa-ark .A'ay-quats. 

Hah Wash. 

Kay Ke ah.re. 

Nali-gut To-otch kash. 

Ithe-pe A-shotch.a-s/ioMJ-bick. 

Keem-mah To-ta-os. 

Me ah-lo Totch-esch. 

Naw-bah-ola-kah Ta-a-chots. 

fiTocft-kun-nee Wah-tavv-chow-ofc/i-kash. 

Ta-quaw Wash-talk-fce-shaw. 

Cab-&oo?i Esh-s/ja-esh. 

Un-s/ia-esh. 

Marry-e-ah-whit-to . .... .1 22-shock. 

raZfc-kash. 

Jltch-kinch. 

Ah-she-ka-atch-e a-wah. 

./Itch-tah. 

Naw-owi-ta. 

Totch -tali. 

Kee-eicft-tah. 

Co-rash. 



Chaat 

Tahe-cbAt 

Pe-opp 

Ter-titche 

Tbo-hop 

Ta-yeh j Wah-Za-tash 

Tar-a-pe 

Ner-acfc-pee 

Ner-fce-ar 

Ner-Zffi-ma | 

Ner-pa-eher j 

Ner-Zoo-ar 

Ner pa-tax 

Ner co mack-pe 

Ner-quer 

To-a-chee 

To-a-nicfc-pe 

Wy-ah-pee-chee 

Koo-veh 

Wahk-cher 

Pa-aft 

Pe-hee 

To-koo 

Par-pe 

Moo. wah 

Ah-Zoo-koo 

JVaA-hap 

Too yock 

Naw-chiche 

Tep-pa 

Ar-aA-ko 

Qua-hee 

So-nip 

Peeshe-pa,h 

jVoA-karke 

Pah-pee 

CooA>chow 



APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 



299 



COMANCHE. 



O x Pe-mo ro 

Herd of horses Tah-fte-yeh ...... 

Deer Ul-leek-hah 

Turkey Ko-yo-nif-tah 

Day Tah-arp 

Summer.. 7Varch 

Winter . To-han 

Spring Tane-ftafe-ro 

jij ioht Too-kah-ra, 

Morning Pua-ori/t-co 

Darkness Teir 

Rain Er-mar , 

Snow Tar-kau 

Sea Par-hap-hia 

Prairie • Ve-he-wale-tc . . ■ 

Springj (fountain) Pah-hap-pea 

Bread Ta-e-s/tfHU-tar . . . 

Melon'.'. Pe-fce-na 

•Wood Koo-o/t-nee 

Forest - Hoo-o/f-cartc . . . 

Bird Hoo-choo 

Fish Frt-que 

Snake Noo-be-er 

Stone Terp... 

Lead JVwp-parke 

Pipe To/i-ish 

Corn Hah-ne-fte-teh . . 

Tent Kah-fta/i-me 

Wampum Tshe-nip 

Kettle Way-he-z'o-wuh . 

Boat Wo-we-poke 

Axe i Ho-Mm-nah 

Spear » Cheak 

Knife •• Weith 

Flint JVa-da-curte 

Shoe.'.' Ma-a-pee 

Kettle Wit-wah 

Town Kee-mt-kie 

Warrior Too-a-vitche. . . . 

Hot t/r-ate 

Cold Urtch-ate 

White ' Too-shop 

j^ e( j A-frop-tee 

Handsome Char-nar-bo-my . 

Live JV«i/-ure 

Salt O-nae-M-er 

J^ear May-titch 

Far off Ma-rior-kee 

To-morrow Pa-arc/i-quee 

To kill ! May-way-kun . . 



To eat... 
To walk. 
To run 



Tu-/car-roo . 
He?--mumsh . 

No-/c«-ark . . 



To drink He-fcef-to 



To laugh. 
To cry . . 
To love.. 
To trade . 



Ta-hah-net .. . 

T«fe-kay 

Kum-mar-pee. 
Te-me-a/i-row . 



WITCHITA. 



300 



APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 



ENGLISH. 


COMANCHE. 


WITCHITA. 


To see = 


















Me 


Nf 








He...... . . 






They 























APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 30.1 

REMARKS ON THE PRECEDING VOCABULARIES, BY PROFESSOR 
• W, W. TURNER. 

Of the two vocabularies here given, the Comanche agrees 
very closely with that obtained by Mr. Robert S. Neighbors, 
Indian agent in Texas, and published by H. S. Schoolcraft, 
in his History, Condition, and Prospects of the Indian tribes, 
vol. 11, p. 494, et sea.; the slight discrepancies which pre- 
sent themselves between the two being nearly owing to the 
different manner in which the same sounds are caught and 
represented by different persons. The ethnological affinities 
of the Camanches are w T ell known. They are the most im- 
portant tribe of Indians in Texas, and constitute a portion of 
the great Shoshonee or Snake family, which have been led 
in pursuit of the buffalo far to the south of their congeners. 

The vocabulary of the Witchitas, though less complete, is 
more interesting, as being the first ever published, as far as I. 
am aware. A pretty extended examination, however, has not 
enabled me to discover an analogy between it and any other 
aboriginal tongue with which we have the means of compar- 
ison. It is true, that in Captain Marcy's lists the words for 
Osage, friend, mule, bear, prairie-dog, are the same in this lan- 
guage as in the Comanche ; but the entire dissimilarity of the 
two vocabularies in other respects, shows that the words in 
question must have been adopted from one language into the 
other, or from a common foreign source. Thus it is evident 
that the Comanche name for prairie-dog is borrowed from the 
Witch ita, while the name for mule has been taken by both 
from the Spanish. The ethnological position of the Witchitas, 
then, remains still to be determined. 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX.* 



Page. 

Abronia . . . . 284, 293 

Abundance of water and grass. ... 46 

Acacia 272 

Acephala 242 

Acerates 277 

Adair bay 126 

Achillea 275 

Actinella 276 

Agama 221, 222 

Agassizocrinus 186 

Agricultural capabilities 75 

Agrostis., 287 

Albuquerque, altitude of 121 

Alecran (scorpion) 259 

Alkaline charater of water. ..... 9 

Mlionia 283, 284 

Allium 285 

Jitliwn 285 

Amianthium 285 

Jhniant antli us 285 

Ammonites 196 

Amorpha 271 

Amsonia 278 

Jlmsonia 278 

Anabrus 248, 249 

Anacardiacese 269 

Analysis of gypsum spring 56 

Analysis of gypsum water 99 

Analysis of Marcylite 10 

Analysis of subsoil 9, 25 

Ananchy tes 198 

Jlnantherix 277 

Anemone 267, 291 

Andropogon 289 

Jlndropogon 289 

Anodonta 245 

Antelopes 17, 54, 55, 67 

Antilocapra 201 

Antiscorbutics 39 

Aphanostephus 276, 291 

. .Aphanostephus , 276 

Apocynum 277 



Page. 

Aracbnidians 251 

Araneida? 251 

Archimedipora 188 

Argemone 267 

Aristida 287 

Jlristida 287 

Arkansas, geology of 167 

Artemisia 274, 292 

Asclepiadacete 277 

Asclepias 277 

Jlsclepias 277 

Astarte 194 

Astragalus.. 271 

Atacamite .10, 147 

Mheropogon 287 

Atmospheric refraction 44 

Atreus 259 

Atriplex 283 



Baptisia 271 

Barometer broken. ]5 

Bassaris 147 

Battle between Indians 46 

Batracbians 235 

Bear, instinct of. 62 

Beaver creek 69 

Beavers, habits of 36 

Big Wichita 11 

Birds seen 13 

Bituminous coal 123 

Boraginacere 280 

Bos 201 

Bottle buried 41 

Bottom lands, 92 

Boulders 20, 174, 176 

Boundary between Texas & Choc- 
taw Nation 21 

Bouteloua 287 

Eouieloua. 287 

Bow, its use and material 106 

Buffaloes... 17, 27, 29, 77 



Synonyms are italicised,. 



304 



INDEX. 



Page. 
Buffaloes, diminution of their num- 
bers 114 

Buffalo grass 43 

Buffaloes, range of. 113 

Buffaloes, relation of to Indians. . 112 

Bufo. 229, 230 

Bulimus.. 243 

Buthus 259 

Brachiopodaj. 188 

Brachypeplus 249 

Brackish water. ................ 69 

Brown coal 153 

Brush fence 37 

Bryozoa „ 188 



G. 



Cache creek 8 

Calamagrostis 287 

Calligonium 283 

CallirrhoB 268 

Calymenia 283 

Canadian 42 

Canaje-Hexie 18 

Canis ... .. 200 

Canons 166 

Capparidacese. 267 

Carex 286 

Carex 286 

Caryophyllaceoe 268 

Cardium 194 

Cassia. 272 

Castilleja. 279 

Castor 200 

Cattle-stealing 106 

Centaurea 276 

Centipede 262 

Ceratichthys 237 

Cervus 201 

Chastity of prisoners, violation of. 110 

Chenopodiacese 283 

Chenopodium 283 

Chickasaw phim 20 

Chief hood of Indians . 105 

Ckloris. . . 287 

Choctaw reservation, boundary of. 80 

Chloris. 287 

Chloris 287 

Chondrosium 287 

Cbondrosiwm 287 

Chrysopsis 276 

Cirsium 276 

Clematis . . 267 

Clitoria 271 

Cnemidophorus 226 

Cnidoscolus 171 

Coal 283 



Page. 
Coal basin in west. ............. 152 

Coal of Brazos 152 

Cold weather. * 32 

Coal west of Mississippi 152 

Colorado, confusion of the name. 4 

Coluber 214 

Cornanches 93 

Comanches, physical features of. 107 
Cornanches, subdivisions of. .... . 103 

Comanche trail. 27 

Comandra 281 

Commelyna 284 

Commelynaceae 284 

Composite 274 

Coniferae 284 

Convovulvus 278 

Convolvulus 278 

Convolvulacere 278 

Copper........ 162 

Copper, carbonate of. 177 

Copper ore. .8, 9, 10, 25, 145 

Coronella. 214 

Courses and distances 140 

Cretaceous fossils 172, 191 

Cretaceous rocks. 172 

Crinoidea 186 

Crotalus 202 

Crotaphytus 221 

Croton 282 

Cross Timbers 76, 87, 92 

Cruciferse 267 

Cucumis 273 

Cucurbita 273 

Cucurbita 273 

Cucurbitacea3. 273 

Cupuliferae 284 

Cyathrocrinus 186 

Cyelas 243 

Cyperaceae 285 

Cyperus 285 

Cypcrus 288 



D. 



Daihinia ....... 246 

Dalea. 271 

Dalea 271 

Dasystoma 279 

Deer .63, 67 

Deer-bleat 54, 70 

Delphinium 267 

Desmodium 271 

Dews 46 

Didelphys 201 

Dinebra 287 

Diploppapus 276 



INDEX. 



305 



Page. 
Distances from Fort Belknap to 

Santa Fe 97 

Dithyrsea. 268, 291 

Divide 13, 15 

Dodecatheon • 281 

Dofii Ana 126 

Drift 163, 178, 180 

Drift-hills 179 

Drought 39 



E. 



Early explorations of Red river. . 2 

Echinacea 275 

Echinodermata 198 

Egletes 276 

Elevations above sea. 48. 61 

Elk creek 22 

Elymus 288 

Elymus 288 

Encampment, mode of. 33 

Engelmannia 276, 292 

Engelmannia 282 

Enslenia.. 277 

Equisetaceae 289 

Equisetum 289 

Eragrostis 288 

Eriogonum 283 

Eritrichium 285 

Erilrichium 285 

Eryngium 290 

Erythrsea 278, 292 

Erythrcea 278 

1'Etage Senonien 169 

Euchroma 279 

Eulima 196 

Euphorbia 282 

Euphorbiacea? 282 

Euploca 280, 292 

Euploca 282 

Eurytamia 274, 291 

Eustoma 278 

Eutsenia 205 

Eutriana 287 

Evolvulus 278 

Evolvulus. 278 

Exogyra 191 

Explorations by Gregg 5 

" " James 4 

" " Lono- 4 

" Pike ........ 3 

" " Sparks 2 



False rumors. 

20 



82 



Page. 
False scorpions. ................ Ji59 

Fedia 274 

Felis 201 

Ferruginous sand. 183 

Fertility of soil 80 

Festuca 288 

Fimbristylis 286 

Fish ...26, 233 

Flies, annoyance from .71, 76 

Fort Arbuckle, arrival at. ...... . 88 

Fort Belknap 6, 13 

Fort Smith, altitude of. ........ . 121 

Fort Smith, arrival at ......... . 5 

Fossils 49 

Fossil-wood ..... 176 

French explorations of Red river. 2 
Fresh water .38, 40 



G. 



Gaillardia 275 

Galeodes. ..................... 261 

Garter snake ............... 205 

Gasteropoda ................... 243 

Gaura .... ................ 272 

GentianacesE .................. 278 

GeraniacetB 269 

Geranium .269, 291 

Gerardia 279 

Geology of Arkansas ........... 167 

Geology of country ............ 167 

Glandularis 280 

Globiconcha ................... 195 

Glycyrrhiza 270 

Gnats, annoyance from ......... 73 

Gold.... 173 

Gold-bearing formation 20 

Gold-bearing rocks ............. 159 

Gold deposites.. ............... 17 

Gold diggings of Colorado ...... 158 

Grama grass .30, 45, 54 

Grama 281 

Graminese 286 

Granite .16, 17, 173 

Grapes 38 

Grasses, native ................ 79 

Grazing, best time for .......... 33 

Gregg's expedition 5 

Greyhounds, use of, in chase. ... 27 

Grossulacea; 273 

Grotto in gypsum .............. 56 

Grove of timber 23 

Grypham 192 

Guides, sagacity of. ........... . 81 

Gynamblosis. .................. 282 

Gypsum .22, 50 

Gypsum beds, extent of. ....... . 99 



306 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Gypsum deposite m, . . 164 

Gypsum formation 157 

Gypsum in South America 1G4 

Gypsum water, analysis of 86, 99 



II. 



Head of navigation of Red river. 97 

Head spring of Red river 60 

Hedyotis 274 

Heterodon 208 

Helianthus 275 

Helix plebeium 31 

Heliotropium 292 

Helonias 285 

Hemiaster 198 

Hendecandra 282 

Hendecandra 282 

Herpetodryas 214 

Hoffmanseggia 271, 291 

Holaster 198 

Holbrookia 206 

Holect3 T pus 199 

Homeward inarch 63 

Hordeum 289 

Hospitality, rights of 109 

Houstonia 274 

Hundredth degree of longitude.. . 20 

Hymenopappus 275 

Hymcnopappus 275 

Hymenolkecium 287 

Hymenoxys ^ . . . . 276 

Hypoxidacese 284 

Hypoxis 284 



Ignorance of power of whites. . . . 108 

Incredulity of Indians 108 

Indians 80 

Indians and Tartars compared. . . 112 

Indian camps 33 

Indian forays 95 

Indian horsemanship 103 

Indians, mode of checking 96 

Indians of Red river, general de- 
scription of 1 02 

Indian tracks 69 

Indian villages 78 

Indigofera 270 

Inoceramus 193 

Ipomaea 278 

Iridacece 285 

Iron sands. 147 



J. 



James, Dr., journal of. 4 

Janira 191 

Jasper 159 

Jatropha 283 

Julus 264 

June rise 16, 87, 98 

Juniperus 284 

Juniperus 284 

Juniperus Virginiana 57 



Kaskia Indians 3 

Ke-clie-a-qui-ho-no 53 

Keechies 101 

Kickapoos 87 

Kioways 39, 47, 93 

Kioway creek 41 

Koeleria 288 

Kocleria 288 

Krameria 270 

Krameriacere 270 



L. 



Labiatae 280 

Latitudes 41, 61, 64, 69 

Lakes of Red river 91 

Laguna Colorado 121 

Labradorite 148 

Leguminosas 270 

Lepachys 275 

Lephrosia 270 

Leptocaulis 273 

Letophis 219 

Lepus 200 

Leuciscus 237, 238, 239, 240 

Liatris 274, 291 

Liatris 274 

Lies told by the Indians 19 

Lightning 14 

Lignite 159 

Liliacea 285 

Lime 25 

Linacese 268 

Linum 268 

Lippia 280, 292 

Liquor, use of, among Indians. . . 114 

Lisianthus 278 

Little Witchita 6 

Lizards described 219 

Llano Estacado 36, 38, 45 



INDEX. 



307 



Page. 
Llano Estacado impracticable for 

a railroad 119 

Llano Estacado, geology of. 179 

Loasaceae 273 

Lodges, Witchita, town of. 78 

Loess creek 31 

Longitudes 41 

Long's exploration 4 

Long's peak 125 

Lost member of party 42 

Lutra 200 

Lycosa 252 

Lygodesmia 276 

Lygosoma 228 

Lymneea 244 

Lynx 200 



M. 



Magnetic needle, variation of. . . . 68 

Malva 268 

Malvastrum 268 

Malvaceae 268 

Mammals . . .' 200 

Manganese ore 147 

Marcylite 10, 134 

Marshallia 276 

Masticophis 217 

McClellan's creek 44 

Medicine lodges 116 

Melampodium 276 

Melampodium 276 

Melanthacese 285 

Melica 288 

Mentzelia 273 

Mephitis 200 

Meteorological observations 127 

Mezquite grass 7 

Mezquite wood 31, 43, 64, 70, 123 

Middle Comanches 85 

Military post, new one advised .90, 91 

Mineralogy 145 

Mirabilis 283 

Mirage 45 

Mollusca 191 

Monarda 280 

Monarda 280 

Mount Scott 76 

Mount Webster 22 

Mountains, physical features of. . . 71 

Mulberry creek 65 

Mule lost 80 

Mygale 251 

Myosotis 281 

Myriapods 262 

N. 

Navigation of Bio- Witchita 7 



Negroes, hostility to. 110 

Nemastylis 285 

North Fork 25 

Nyctaginace<£ 283 



Oaks, dwarf. 26 

Obione 283 

Obione 283 

CEnothera 272 

Oldenlandia 274 

Onagraceaj 272 

Ophibolus 214, 215, 216 

Order for expedition 1 

Orthopterous insects 248 

Ostrea 192 

Otter creek. 16 

Overcup oak 8 

Oxalidacece 268 

Oxalis 268 

Oxybaphus .283, 284 

Oxy tropis 271 



Pah-hah-en-ca 85 

Palaeontology 186 

Pat afoxia 275 

Panicum 286 

Panicum., 286 

Panopeai 194 

Panther 12 

Papaveracoa 267 

Paronychia 268 

Paspalum 186 

Pass in the mountains 76 

Patent Office, letter from. ..... 65 

Peak of Guadalupe 124 

Pecten 191 

Pentratrematiks 187 

Pentremites 187 

Pentstemon .279, 292 

Pentstemon 280 

Petalostemon 270, 271 

Petrified wood 44 

Phalangium 286 

Phalangopsis 286 

Phalaris 286 

Phalaris 286 

Phengites 165 

Phlox 281 

Phrynosorna 220 

Physa .243, 244 

Physalis , 279 

Pike's expedition 3 



508 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Pituophya 21 1 

Planorbia . 244 

Plantagenacera 283 

Plantago 283 

Pleuraohis 287 

Poa...* 288, 293 

Poa. 288 

Polanisia 267 

Polemoniace-Es 281 

Polygala.. 2G9 

Polygalaceae.. 269 

Polygonaccaj 283 

Polyotus 277 

Polytenia 273 

Pomotis..... 235 

Porphyritic greenstone 157 

Portulacaceee 268 

Poterium 272 

Prairie dogs 45 

Prairie-dog towns 50 

Presents distributed 18 

Preston 97 

Preston, arrival at 6 

PrimulaceEe 281 

Prisoners, release of 85 

Prisoners, Mexican 85 

Procyon 200 

Productus.. 189 

Primus chicaaa 20 

Psammophis 217 

Pseudoscorpionidee 260 

Psoralea.. 270 

Ptelea.. *>69 

Ptoromys. 200 

Pupa muscorum. 3] 

Pure water. 69 

Phyrrlsopappus 276 



Quapaws. 101 

Quercus .... ^ 284 

Quercus macrocarpa. 8 

Quicksand 7 , 32 



It. 



Raft of Red river 90 

Railroad, best route for 120, 123 

Railroad, general considerations 

respecting 119 

Rain .....14, 15, 16, 70 

Rains, times of occurrence 46 

Rana 231 

Ranunculacese 267 

Rattlesnake 217 



Red clay formation lao 

Red river 21 

Red river, early explorations of. . 2 
P«.ed river, its physical characters 91 
Red river, position of sources. ... 92 

Reptiles 202 

Reptiles collected 66 

Religious belief 116 

Retepora 188 

Rhus 269 

Rhynchosia 270 

Ribes 273 

Riddellia 275 

Riddellia 275 

Rio Raijo of Humboldt 4 

Rise of river 47 

River terraces 97 

Rock bed of river 59 

Rock salt 98 

Rosacea? 272 

Rubiacece 274 

Rudbeckia 275 

Rudbeckia 275 

Rush creek 87 



Sabbatia 278 

Safe return 89 

Sagacity of Indians 35 

San Diego 122 

Sand-hills 17, 98 

Sandy creek 43 

Salt Fork 23 

Salt, incrustation of 37 

Salt springs 185 

Salt plains not at head of Red river 45 

Sanguisorba 272, 291 

Santalacese 281 

Sapindacese 269 

Sapindus 269 

Sceleporus 224 

Scenery, magnificent 60 

Schrankia 272 

Schrankia angustata 48 

Scilla 285 

Sinews 229 

Sciurus 200 

Scolopendra 262 

Scoria 155 

Scorpio 257 

Scorpions 257 

ScorpionidiE 257 

Scotophis 213 

Scrophulariaceffi 279 

Scutellaria 280 

Scurvy 39, 47 



INDEX. 



309 



Page- 

Scyphia.. .. .. . 155 

Sections, geological 172 

Selenite 176 

Septaria 148 

Serpents 202 

Sesleria 288 

Shells 242 

Shepard, Prof. C. U., letter from. 145 

Shortest route to Pacific 123 

Sicydimn 273 

Sicydium . 273 

Sida 268 

•Sidell's route 124 

Sierra Waco ]22 

Signs, use of. 109 

Silene 268 

■Sisyrinchium 286 

Smoke of Indians 67 

Snows, little obstruction from. . . . 123 

Soils, analysis of. 148 

Solanacess 279 

Solanum . . 279 

Solidago 274 

Spark s expedition 2 

Spermophilus 201 

-Spiders 252 

Spirifer 190 

Sporobolus 287 

Staked Plain 63 

Staked Plain, etymology of. ... . 100 

Stevia 275 

Stillingia 282 

Stillingia 282 

Strept'hanthus , 267 

Subsoils 168 

Subsoil, analysis of. 8 

Succinea 245 

Succinea elongata 31 

Sulphate of lime 49 

Sulphur river 123 

Sulphuret of lead 184 

.Superstitions. 116 

Suydam creek 27 

Sweetwater creek 32 

Swiftness of wild animals 68 



T. 



Talinum 268 

Talk with the Indians. 18 

Taniias 200 

Tarantula 251 

Tarantulidae 254 

Tartars and Indians compared . . . 104 

Telegonous 257 

Temperature of water 9 

Terebratula 189, 190 



Page. 

Terraces of river 38 

Tertiary coal 152 

Teucrium 280 

Teucrium 280 

Thelyphonus 255 

Tkesium 281 

Thirst..... 58, 59 

Tiliqua 229 

Tillable land on Red river 92 

Timber 71 

Timber, large size of. 43 

Timber, varieties of. 8, 13 

Titanian sands 147 

Tobacco, use of. Ill 

To-se-quash 85 

Tradescantia 284 

Traffic of Indians, illegal. ....... 114 

Tragia 282 

Tragia 282 

Transportation of stores, route for 96 

Trigonia 193 

Trinity river 122 

Tripsacum 289 

Triticum 288 

Tylostoma 195 



Umbelliferte 273 

Unio 243, 244, 245 

Uniola 288, 293 

Uniola 288 

Ursus 200 



V. 



Valerianaces 274 

Valley, fertile 76 

Verbena 280 

Verbenacece 280 

Vermillion, use of. 108 

Vesicaria 267 

Vicia 270 

Vinaigron ( Thelyphonus) 254 

Vitaceai 269 

Vitis 269 

Volcanic rocks 158 

Vulpes 117 

W. 

Wacos 84, 101 

War-club 107 

War parties 106 



310 



INDEX. 



Page. 
War parties, how distinguished. . 27 

Warner's pass 126 

Water basin 64 

Water of Red river, analysis of. . 165 

Water, sudden rise of. 14 

Wildcat 66, 110 

Wild-horse creek 87 

Winds, prevailing. 33 

Winters of Red river 92 

Witchitas 18, 83, 101 

Witchita mountains.. 10, 17, 67, 69 
Witchita mountains, agricultural 

capabilities of country about ... 78 
Witchitas, extent of their country. 75 



Page. 
Wichita mountains, structure of. . 1 75 
Women, condition of 112 

X. 

Xanthisma 292 

Z. 

ZanthoxylaceiE 269 

Zapania 280 

Zinnia 275 

Zoology.. 200 



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